Jump to content

3.0 Duramax vs. 5.3 with DFM

lryfer
 Share

Recommended Posts

TRKLGND Enthusiast

TRKLGND

Posted
Posted
On 11/6/2021 at 7:20 AM, Big Lew said:

I'm just starting to do some research and build my truck. I just wanted to thank everyone for the info provided here on this site.

My wife and I wish to do a lot of traveling and I'm leaning towards the 3.0

One question....it seems we always go through a period where gas is so difficult to get, is it the same with diesel? I would think

that the 18 wheelers would have priority with their hauling and keeping America open, so is there ever an issue with obtaining

diesel fuel during these times? 

 

Where do you live that gasoline is difficult to get?

  • Like 1
T-Town-Z Enthusiast

T-Town-Z

Posted
Posted

I'm considering a 2022 "Limited" Silverado with the diesel engine.   I have not really read of any issues with it.  Have I overlooked something, or has this engine just been that ultra reliable so far ?

Does it have any faults ? 

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted

Some early ones had a crankshaft seal that could be leak -- but there haven't been any recently posted about, so it appears the ones that were going to fail have already done so.

 

There have been some with an 'extended crank / no-start' condition.

They always seemed to start 2nd crank.  There were a couple mechanical things they thought it might have been -- but some with those issues 'corrected' still had the condition.

In October there was an update to programming.

Those with that update seem to have had the condition eliminated.

 

And lots have never had the crank/no-start.  Mine has never done it. A little over a year and a little over 16,000 miles. 

 

Warms up quick

Great mileage (mine is 25+ doing the same job that resulted in 20+/- 0.5 on a 15 and a 16 (one 5.3 one 6.2, both 8 speed 4wd standard box)

10 speed 3.0 work together very nicely. 

 

If I need a new truck tomorrow, it will be another 3.0.

Trying to convince my wife to trade her Acadia for a 3.0 Yukon....

Transient Senior Enthusiast

Transient

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, redwngr said:

Some early ones had a crankshaft seal that could be leak -- but there haven't been any recently posted about, so it appears the ones that were going to fail have already done so.

 

There have been some with an 'extended crank / no-start' condition.

They always seemed to start 2nd crank.  There were a couple mechanical things they thought it might have been -- but some with those issues 'corrected' still had the condition.

In October there was an update to programming.

Those with that update seem to have had the condition eliminated.

 

And lots have never had the crank/no-start.  Mine has never done it. A little over a year and a little over 16,000 miles. 

 

Warms up quick

Great mileage (mine is 25+ doing the same job that resulted in 20+/- 0.5 on a 15 and a 16 (one 5.3 one 6.2, both 8 speed 4wd standard box)

10 speed 3.0 work together very nicely. 

 

If I need a new truck tomorrow, it will be another 3.0.

Trying to convince my wife to trade her Acadia for a 3.0 Yukon....

If my wife parts with her 2017 Traverse I will be doing the same thing.  If something happened to my current truck where I needed to replace it, 3.0 it will be.  I love everything about the 6.2, but the gas bill. 

T-Town-Z Enthusiast

T-Town-Z

Posted
Posted

I really have not read anything bad about the baby duramax, but recall something on-line, that the engine needs removed or something major, to change a belt or chain after 100k miles..... ???

I'd like to read or see more about that.

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted
46 minutes ago, T-Town-Z said:

I really have not read anything bad about the baby duramax, but recall something on-line, that the engine needs removed or something major, to change a belt or chain after 100k miles..... ???

I'd like to read or see more about that.

It's a belt for the oil pump, and it's 150,000 miles. 

 

Seems to be a lot of speculation about what is needed to change.

Most seem to think the engine stays and the trans gets moved back or removed.

Not a nice job in the driveway, but with the right vehicle lift and transmission lift....?

 

 

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
YZ-Dave Enthusiast

YZ-Dave

Posted
Posted

A lot of mis-information on the whole oil pump belt thing. It doesn't HAVE to be changed at 150k - the engine itself was designed to have a 150k expected life cycle, which means they targeted that mileage before the eying needed opened up. GM recommends to replace the belt at 150k, but it can run much longer.

Best friend runs a dyno at the Milford proving grounds, they have LM2s with simulated 500k miles on the original belts. 

The transmission itself has a expected life cycle of 100k - that doesn't mean that when the odometer rolls 100k you throw on the blinker and put new clutches and bands in it on the side of the road, you run it until it gives you signs there is trouble.



 

  • Thanks 1
KARNUT Senior Enthusiast

KARNUT

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, YZ-Dave said:

A lot of mis-information on the whole oil pump belt thing. It doesn't HAVE to be changed at 150k - the engine itself was designed to have a 150k expected life cycle, which means they targeted that mileage before the eying needed opened up. GM recommends to replace the belt at 150k, but it can run much longer.

Best friend runs a dyno at the Milford proving grounds, they have LM2s with simulated 500k miles on the original belts. 

The transmission itself has a expected life cycle of 100k - that doesn't mean that when the odometer rolls 100k you throw on the blinker and put new clutches and bands in it on the side of the road, you run it until it gives you signs there is trouble.



 

I’m surprised they admit any life expectancy. I had a 91 Cummins dodge that I pulled equipment with. You couldn’t work it harder. At 100K miles I gave it to a crew for pipeline work. At 200K it became a part running truck for the shop. Then a costumer ask me to help them on a project. I needed to pull a small remote control machine, too heavy for my half ton. After painting adding a new clutch at over 300K back to work it went. The odometer quit working 9 months later it was a parts runner again. A few years later my brother gave it to our shop Forman as a bonus. I could have killed him. Except for a few electrical issues it was flawless. Maybe it was the Amsoil.😎

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • PBNB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By PBNB · Posted

      Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
    • asilverblazer
      My First Project and GMC has me stumped

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I had an alternator fail that was shorted internally in such a direct fashion in addition to the larger gauge cables that it appeared like a VERY dead battery. Granted I think the car did power up, it definitely wouldn't start.   Rodent damage to wiring?
    • asilverblazer
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      ... I don't think he could.
    • asilverblazer
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Using experience to justify bad advice is lazy and typical of someone incapable of articulating why their advice is prudent.    This immediately sets off the BS alert and the advice that followed certainly qualified.   Asking an idiot for help getting out of dumb situations because he is an expert... at getting himself into dumb situations.   Unless I've been living in an alternate universe - the first thing everyone does when getting into a sticky situation is shift to a higher gear 🤨.   Of course not, the torque multiplication, mechanical advantage and finer control typically afforded by the lower gear is far better suited for this scenario.   There ARE scenarios where a higher gear MIGHT be appropriate determined more by the drivers ability to control EXCESSIVE wheel spin versus applying torque to the ground.
    • Atlas
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Atlas · Posted

      I'm not sure I agree with "extreme" low speed, high torque sentiment here with regards to the prescribed use of low range. How about...whenever it's needed?   A 2.72:1 transfer case and whatever differential gears these Silverados have (3.42's, maybe?) aren't producing "extremely" low crawl speeds. Or insanely high torque multiplication. Even with the 1st gear in these newer transmissions. But it does provide mechanical advantage and potentially better control at slower speeds. And with extra weight or towing, I think it adds mechanical sympathy for the truck as well.   Plus, traction control and the other assists generally turn off when you shift into low range. Those aren't needed here, they'll work against you if you need wheel spin. In high range you'll need to figure out how to turn off the various modes those assists provide. Depending on the vehicle, those things don't all automatically turn off or turn completely off.   While I agree that a farmer might have some great practical experience, a recommendation to "always" using one gear isn't very informed advice. If the farmer had said WHY and could explain the physics behind his prescriptive "always" I'd definitely listen. The way he's described here makes it sounds like he could either be uninformed or is telling everyone what worked for him, not necessarily that there could be a more advantageous way about things.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...