Jump to content

Oil Pan Heater

Chadw90
 Share

Recommended Posts

Chadw90 Enthusiast

Chadw90

Posted
Posted

This will be the first winter i will be driving my 17’ 2500 Duramax here in Saskatchewan more often. 
I typically only use the truck to go out west snowmobiling but now will be driving it more often to work. We are getting cold snaps of -38C now. At work the plugs are on 20min intervals. 20 on, 20 off. This truck is my baby. Was thinking of putting an engine oil pan heater on, while i was under there, thought what the heck, how about a trans oil pan heater too. 
i have the magnetic 200w that would work on the trans pan, and will grab a stick on one for the engine oil pan. 
that oil pan would be full to the bottom of the block right? There’s a nice large convenient area on the side of the pan. Could definitely get a 200w on there too. Or should I only stick one on the very bottom. If thats the case, i could only get a 3” round 125w on there.    

CamGTP Senior Enthusiast

CamGTP

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have a 100 or 150w stick on heater on the bottom of my oil pan because I park outside currently with my half ton truck. It didn't come with a block coolant heater and this was a much faster option than taking a coolant bath. Warmer oil helps a lot.

 

It been -14 to -18F at night here (-25 to -27C) and with those temps it's been keeping the bottom of the pan at 70-80F (21-26C) but it's not on a timer. I leave it plugged in overnight to help start it in the morning, when I leave work it's warmed to to around 0-5F so I don't plug it in there.

Edited by CamGTP
  • Thanks 1
davester Senior Enthusiast

davester

Posted
Posted

Typically, the oil does not fill all the way up to the bottom of the block.  For most blocks, the bottom of the block is approximately the centerline of the crankshaft, and the oil level needs to be entirely below the crankshaft so it doesn't spin in the oil and make it foam up.

 

You probably can use the larger one, just stick it on so the bottom of it is near the lowest point of the oil pan.

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, CamGTP said:

I have a 100 or 150w stick on heater on the bottom of my oil pan because I park outside currently with my half ton truck. It didn't come with a block coolant heater and this was a much faster option than taking a coolant bath. Warmer oil helps a lot.

 

It been -14 to -18F at night here (-25 to -27C) and with those temps it's been keeping the bottom of the pan at 70-80F (21-26C) but it's not on a timer. I leave it plugged in overnight to help start it in the morning, when I leave work it's warmed to to around 0-5F so I don't plug it in there.

This has been on my list of to dos for awhile but could never decide how large. Thanks for the guidance. ? 

flyingfool Senior Enthusiast

flyingfool

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 2/8/2021 at 7:56 PM, CamGTP said:

I have a 100 or 150w stick on heater on the bottom of my oil pan because I park outside currently with my half ton truck. It didn't come with a block coolant heater and this was a much faster option than taking a coolant bath. Warmer oil helps a lot.

 

It been -14 to -18F at night here (-25 to -27C) and with those temps it's been keeping the bottom of the pan at 70-80F (21-26C) but it's not on a timer. I leave it plugged in overnight to help start it in the morning, when I leave work it's warmed to to around 0-5F so I don't plug it in there.

is there a formula for watts/quart of oil to heat? where did you buy yours at?

Edited by flyingfool
CamGTP Senior Enthusiast

CamGTP

Posted
Posted

Most companies that sell them have a chart or the product itself tells you what size oil pan it should be used for.

 

50 watts is only like 1-3 quarts.

100 watts up to 3-5 quarts.

150 watts for 5-8 quarts.

 

I'd have to crawl under the truck to see exactly which one I got but I'm pretty sure it's around that 125-150 watts, which was enough for these engines. Napa is where I bought it.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
flyingfool Senior Enthusiast

flyingfool

Posted
Posted (edited)

i have a large baler, with a 40-50 gal tank,  temps are at 40 degrees here and its very sluggish on 45 wt oil. runs good in the summer but its draggin butt in the morning. i really dont want to change the oil.. i probably need 5000 watts, cheaper to buy thinner oil i guess

Edited by flyingfool

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Buckwild27
      Gas Prices

      By Buckwild27 · Posted

      I agree. 
    • Atlas
      Gas Prices

      By Atlas · Posted

      87 down as low as $5.14 here... winning!
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Progress... sort of.   Intake is disassembled, spider is out, fuel lines removed. Used a torch on the stripped screw with the lower intake off, much easier when I've got the intake sitting on my workbench, I made it talk. Walked right out with a pair of vice grips once it was nice and toasty hot.   New parts are piling up on my service cart waiting to be installed. Distributor, temperature sensor, new gaskets, fuel line kit, themostat, water neck.   My new pickle is I don't want to spend $600 on a replacement spider. I'm not sure IT is bad. I'm probably splitting hairs. Or it's $300 to send mine away and another 3 weeks of the truck just sitting. I have half a mind to assemble everything with the old spider to see if I can get away with just replacing the fuel pressure regulator to be safe. The obvious issue was the gushing high pressure fuel line which will be replaced. Getting to the spider really isn't that hard, and now I know what I'm doing , swapping it would be a breeze should it absolutely need one. Stupid, or smart?   The part that gives me pause is replacing the distributor. Well, it's already out. And I didn't mark it, whoopsie! Engine was at TDC when I removed it, I know that, so upon correct reinstall the metal tip on the rotor should point to the TDC mark on the distributor because that's where it was pointing on the old distributor. Worst case I'm a tooth off and have to re-stab it.   But then, what? I assume the truck will start. It doesn't appear the timing can be set. Here's the problem: These distributors can't be rotated but a degree or two, by design. What I read is Cam ****** needs to be -2 to +2 degrees, ideally at 0 (and checked/set above 1000 rpm). There should be enough wiggle to get that properly set, but checking the reported value is another potential issue. My Actron 9185 scanner says it supports enhanced GM PIDs and Cam ****** is one of them but it's unclear that I'll be able to correctly see it over OBD 1.5. I can see why people end up junking these things with life left in them. They're an absolute nightmare with tweener-year diagnostics/electronics and unobtanium parts.   Fingers crossed it starts and idles nicely. There can be hope, right? I'ma buy a lottery ticket the same day just in case.   Next steps..DO IT. I have not installed an intake before so I've been reading and watching a lot. Some say NO RTV except on china walls, some say DO RTV on water ports but not fuel/air intake. 1/4 or 3/8 bead on China walls? I think my strategy will be, obviously, RTV china walls with overlap on the gasket corners. Chapstick-style RTV the water ports. Leave intake ports dry. The only set of intake gaskets I could find locally are Edelbrock performance gaskets (uh...for an asthmatic 190hp V6? LOL) so we'll see how they do.   #NoToolLeftBehind. It took an hour, but my recovery mission for my deep 10mm socket was successful. It had rolled down the bellhousing and wedged itself between what I think are the fuel lines? I couldn't see it at all, but with a junk antenna I had laying around, I blindly went poking/sweeping for it, heard it clink, raised the truck, and caught a sliver glimpse of chrome with a flashlight way up there in Narnia. I had pushed it farther along the lines holding it captive, but within access of severely improvised tools, poking and cursing at it to finally knock it free to where I could get a fingertip on it to bring it home.    Not much to see.      
    • RyanbabZ71
      Gas Prices

      By RyanbabZ71 · Posted

      Thats crazy considering im right next door (Indiana)
    • Black02Silverado
      New Retail & Commercial Promo

      By Black02Silverado · Posted

      For a limited time, retail and commercial accounts receive an AMSOIL Vinyl Tool Tray with their order of $500 or more when they use code TRAY726 at checkout. The promotion runs through July 21, 2026.   Order at https://syntheticadvantage.com   Want to use AMSOIL in your business or sell at your store, apply here.  https://www.amsoil.com/business-opportunities/?zo=521390  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...