Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey guys,

 

So I've been eyeballing the BDS kits for my 2020 LTZ 6.2. I kinda of want to go for the 6" kits, but heres my question.

 

Whats the difference between the 4" kit and 6" kit, other than the larger block in the rear. Do they just use different front springs/shocks or crank up the preload on the 4" kit to achieve more lift, or is it actually larger shocks with a minimum amount of preload.  Coming from a Long traveled Tacoma, I know my way around shocks and preload, and I would prefer to avoid that.

 

I also plan on getting the Full Fox setup with the adjustable resi's, Either Cognito UCAs or just buy the full package from BDS with UCA's and the rear stabilizer bar things. I had full race King's on my Tacoma, and THAT was a harsh ride, but these stock shocks on the Chevy are just so bouncy and marshmallow feeling.

 

I was ALSO looking at Camburgs leaf spring set up for the Silverado, looks like a full leaf pack will give something like 1-2" of lift, so I'd have to play around with blocks to match a front 4" or 6" kit....but at that 1k price tag from Camburg, I might just call Deaver at that point and see what they can do.

 

Thanks

Posted

6" has different (long) shocks and larger block, longer drop brackts - but otherwise the same.   You will like the Fox shocks a lot - big improvement over stock.  I have 2020 AT4 with 2.5" lift with 2.5 fox adj. shocks up front and 2.0's in the rear.   That is the same as the 4" kit for your truck.  You can fit 33's no problem with right wheel offset (0 degrees to negative) but 35" are tight and will require a lot of trimming.  6" will allow for bigger tires.  

 

If considering rear spring pack - Deaver offers a great rear spring packs - call them, they will get you whatever you want - I have run them on last 3 trucks - great quality and good ride.

 

Here is a photo of my 2020 AT4 with lift

 1767178234_TruckFox2.thumb.JPG.c7935ae8998a5481cfcd49aa771ce791.JPG   

2.5" adj. Fox 

740429055_BDS4.thumb.JPG.794e26b053f5cc858fdc030611bdde57.JPG

 

Nice Level axel 

IMG_9550.thumb.JPG.1616557079f989c6d155e02b3dd61464.JPG

Posted

DEAVER is the best springs out there!   Run them on my YJ (Jeep) and you'd almost think it was coiled.   

 

Posted (edited)
On 2/28/2021 at 6:59 PM, Supercup said:

6" has different (long) shocks and larger block, longer drop brackts - but otherwise the same.   You will like the Fox shocks a lot - big improvement over stock.  I have 2020 AT4 with 2.5" lift with 2.5 fox adj. shocks up front and 2.0's in the rear.   That is the same as the 4" kit for your truck.  You can fit 33's no problem with right wheel offset (0 degrees to negative) but 35" are tight and will require a lot of trimming.  6" will allow for bigger tires.  

 

If considering rear spring pack - Deaver offers a great rear spring packs - call them, they will get you whatever you want - I have run them on last 3 trucks - great quality and good ride.

 

Here is a photo of my 2020 AT4 with lift

 1767178234_TruckFox2.thumb.JPG.c7935ae8998a5481cfcd49aa771ce791.JPG   

2.5" adj. Fox 

740429055_BDS4.thumb.JPG.794e26b053f5cc858fdc030611bdde57.JPG

 

Nice Level axel 

IMG_9550.thumb.JPG.1616557079f989c6d155e02b3dd61464.JPG

Any issues with the stock UCA?   BDS recommends swapping the UCA.   Thoughts?

THANK YOU for adding the level axel pic!   Most forget about that.   GREAT looking truck.

Edited by Rukus
Add to reply
Posted (edited)
22 hours ago, Rukus said:

Any issues with the stock UCA?   BDS recommends swapping the UCA.   Thoughts?

THANK YOU for adding the level axel pic!   Most forget about that.   GREAT looking truck.

 

Spoke with install shop (who do a ton of BDS kits) and with BDS about UCA - neither felt it was needed for 2.5" lift - unless planning on pounding it offroad.  I use is for towing and we go offroad when towing for RZR fun - so RZR will take pounding and truck will take lighter off road duty.   

 

I had UCA on my 2019 AT4 which was leveled with Ready Lift SST kit - they were great - but did stick out more  that stock UCA so reduced inside tire room by about 3/4" from stock.  since you have to have 0 to negative offset wheel (I had 18mm offset) you will pick up more inside room - but if you go 12.5" x 35 x 18, it will be tight on inside with 0 offset wheel.  

 

2019 AT4 with 18 x 9 Method 18mm offset - 275/65/18 OEM Goodyear Duratracs  

IMG_8828.thumb.JPG.4eea0193c4acb8c3ede59614fa68c684.JPG

IMG_9274.thumb.JPG.71fe713a898f3b5a4d460ee621772b63.JPG

 

624408610_UCAGAP.thumb.JPG.8a14e5cc90fcd445ce8852cad644a3d4.JPG

 

Edited by Supercup
Posted

I’m running the 4” BDS kit, stock UCAs with Fox rear shocks, custom powder coated chartreuse yellow. What’s cool with the BDS it the 4” kit and 6” kit are basically the same. I could swap rear blocks, U-bolts and plate, and front spacers and got to 6”.

I’m running 35x12.50s on stock 20s right now with no running (minimal trimming).

It sits perfectly level. I’ll be swapping to custom set Fox coil overs later in the year and plan to set them around a 5” lift, should give me a good stance, look badarse, and improve ride.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
18 hours ago, Anakalypto said:

I’m running the 4” BDS kit, stock UCAs with Fox rear shocks, custom powder coated chartreuse yellow. What’s cool with the BDS it the 4” kit and 6” kit are basically the same. I could swap rear blocks, U-bolts and plate, and front spacers and got to 6”.

I’m running 35x12.50s on stock 20s right now with no running (minimal trimming).

It sits perfectly level. I’ll be swapping to custom set Fox coil overs later in the year and plan to set them around a 5” lift, should give me a good stance, look badarse, and improve ride.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Standard height truck (not AT4/trail boss)? 

 

Pictures - sounds cool! 

Posted

Awesome, thank you guys for the replies! I'm slightly leaning towards the 6".

 

I'm thinking on hitting up camburg for the AAL they have, as I'm worried that the full pack they offer is geared more towards offroading and will be a little to flexy for towing, IE kill my load weight in the rear. Then just mix and match some blocks to see what I need to be level. Will have to find one that has the rear up just a hair to account for the leaf pack settling.   Or just calling deaver and telling them exactly what I want. Should probably just do that haha. Pretty much every leaf pack I've run on my Tacoma from stock to full blown Long travel (and everything in between) was either straight from Deaver, or someone that re-branded after ordering from Deaver haha. They really are the experts when it comes to leafs.

Posted

Save yourself some money upfront and order the BDS kit with the adjustable Fox coilovers.  Night and day versus the non coilover kit. (Don't ask, or tell my wife, how I know.)  I have been waiting almost a year now for Deaver to make a 6 inch lift pack for the rear to get rid of the block.  Once that arrives, my suspension will be done.  The front takes hits so well and the rear is a bit abrupt.

Posted

Unless you live out west or you service them yourself, no way I’d get coilovers. The ride isn’t that much better and your continuously servicing them on and off on and off. 

Posted
6 hours ago, BCT1500 said:

Unless you live out west or you service them yourself, no way I’d get coilovers. The ride isn’t that much better and your continuously servicing them on and off on and off. 

While I do live out west.  I have to disagree about the ride difference.  It is night and day better with the coil overs for off road use.  These things eat up big bumps.  Now, if all you do is highway miles, sure no gains to be had, but as soon as you hit the dirt or sand you can't even come close with the stock struts.

Posted
8 hours ago, JAEDEE said:

While I do live out west.  I have to disagree about the ride difference.  It is night and day better with the coil overs for off road use.  These things eat up big bumps.  Now, if all you do is highway miles, sure no gains to be had, but as soon as you hit the dirt or sand you can't even come close with the stock struts.

Yes, I was referring to on road use. I think a lot of people like the look and think they are better because they are expensive. For a daily on road driver this is far from what you want. Nothing but a hassle ( for the daily driver not living out west)  Off-roading I get it completely. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 3/2/2021 at 11:19 PM, Anakalypto said:

I’m running the 4” BDS kit, stock UCAs with Fox rear shocks, custom powder coated chartreuse yellow. What’s cool with the BDS it the 4” kit and 6” kit are basically the same. I could swap rear blocks, U-bolts and plate, and front spacers and got to 6”.

I’m running 35x12.50s on stock 20s right now with no running (minimal trimming).

It sits perfectly level. I’ll be swapping to custom set Fox coil overs later in the year and plan to set them around a 5” lift, should give me a good stance, look badarse, and improve ride.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

@Anakalypto I am new to lifted trucks but long time admirer. I just bought 2021 Sierra SLT with 5.3L, same color as yours...and I'm thinking I want to replicate your setup with 4" BDS and 35x12.50 on stock 20s.

Two questions:

1) Should I get the UCA like BDS suggests? (I will do mostly city/highway miles with some light offroading when I go hunting 3-4x per year, plus possibly pull a 23 foot boat on trailer a few times a year at most). I thought you had to get new UCA with anything over 2.5"...but maybe that's just with a basic level lift? 

2) Any reason my 5.3L would have trouble pushing the 35x12.50 Toyo A/T III? 

Thanks for any insight you have.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,894
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    TopBo
    Newest Member
    TopBo
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 642 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
    • I always drive in Sport mode. With more driving, I am finding the initial response when accelerating is much quicker now🖕 Lou
    • Is it an optical illusion in the pic or is the truck really squatting that much horribly?
    • My initial introduction was here.  It's hard to believe that I last posted in February 2013, having just deployed to Kyrgyzstan.  Since then, I've retired from the military and the 2006 Sierra SLT Z71 that first brought me to these pages was lost.  I went forward to Afghanistan in March 2013 and did a lot of sitting behind a computer on brigade staff.  Within 18 months of getting back to the States, I was selected for Drill Sergeant duty, after which I moved back to Virginia (my home state and where I served from 2004-2008).  That '06 Sierra did a lot of driving between Louisiana, Georgia, and Virginia, and ended up with nearly 320k miles by 2022.  By then, the registration had been expired for a couple of years, but the pandemic had all but eliminated tickets for such transgressions.  Admittedly too, I usually drove my wife's SUV or son's car the 2-3 times a week I had to report to work.  Teleworking sure was fun while it lasted.   I started my retirement leave four years ago and stored the Sierra at my sister's house.  A big mess was made when her fiancé passed while she was taking care of business out-of-state in late-2024, and his son pretty much mismanaged everything to do with the estate.  Even so, I was assured that my truck was safe... until it wasn't.  I found out that my truck had been scrapped about four months after the son took over everything.  There's nothing I could do; I'm 1000 miles away and it was technically abandoned property since he'd even trespassed my sister from her own house (she had no claim to it as she wasn't married, and the fiancé was the sole owner).     Anyway, today I got my second Sierra.  This is a 2010 SLE 2WB CCSB with a little over 200k miles on it.  It's got the 5.3L I'm familiar with and should handle what I need it for.  Hauling stuff that won't fit in the Transit Connect (yep, I sold out, but that's the wife's vehicle) and towing a few times a year tops.  The price seemed decent, considering how much people sell their trucks for in the Deep South: $4500.  I've seen similar trucks listed for more than double that.  I got it from a coworker who left his tag on until we transfer the title next week (Louisiana requires a notary for transfers), so I've been driving it all day.  The rear speakers don't work, which is one of the things that brought me back to these forums earlier.  I can't say how active I'll be as a poster, but I'll be scouring the archives while I find out every little thing I can about the 2010s and particular nuances/problems with my truck.   It's definitely not a GMC, but I got another Willys Jeep a few months back as well, so I'm almost at the same place I was when I first joined gm-trucks.com.  My old 1960 DJ3A was sold back around 2010 or 2011; my current Jeep is a 1946 CJ2A.  So, I've got a slightly newer GMC and a much older Jeep.  I kind of wish I still had that F-250 I had way back when too.  The Dakota is long gone and was technically my brother's truck, though I had it registered and insured.  The F-250 had to go when my grandmother's house was foreclosed on due to mismanagement around 2012 or so.     Hopefully anyone that made it this far isn't too annoyed.  I tend to be long-winded, but I'll be doing more reading than posting in the coming months.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...