Jump to content

Looking at a new RST Duramax, pricing, etc

AONYX
 Share

Recommended Posts

AONYX Enthusiast

AONYX

Posted
Posted

Hello all,

I am new here, new to Chevy and new to trucks in general. I own a 2012 Mini Cooper S Coupe I bought used from Carmax and is almost paid off that I love and plan to keep. My commute is changing to more highway driving and I help my mom out on her small farm.

I am looking at a new 2021 Silverado 3.0l RST with Leather and a sunroof. I have never bought a new car before and I was trying to get info on how I can avoid overpaying. It looks like the dealer has 3 of these nearly identical trucks, 2 in black and 1 in grey. They have discounted the price down by about $6000 including Customer cash to around the $49k range. They also list a similar truck with the Z71 package as closer to $46k based on the "Dealer discount" being higher, it has a standard bed, and I am more looking at the short bed because I park in a parking deck for the next few months. Any idea why they would list a truck that looks to be equipped the same but without a Z71 as higher than a truck with this package. I can afford to pay more, but I don't want to have to and don't want to get scammed.

How much do you think I can get them down to and what approach should I take? I have read that you should find out the invoice price that the dealer paid, but I am not sure where to find this information. The websites I have seen so far to get the invoice price seem to just be scamming sites trying to get my personal information to bombard me with ads and phone calls. 

Thanks in advance for helping me with my naivety.

diyer2 Senior Enthusiast

diyer2

Posted
Posted

Simple answer, %10-%15 off MSRP IMO.

btj_z71 Enthusiast

btj_z71

Posted
Posted
26 minutes ago, AONYX said:

Hello all,

I am new here, new to Chevy and new to trucks in general. I own a 2012 Mini Cooper S Coupe I bought used from Carmax and is almost paid off that I love and plan to keep. My commute is changing to more highway driving and I help my mom out on her small farm.

I am looking at a new 2021 Silverado 3.0l RST with Leather and a sunroof. I have never bought a new car before and I was trying to get info on how I can avoid overpaying. It looks like the dealer has 3 of these nearly identical trucks, 2 in black and 1 in grey. They have discounted the price down by about $6000 including Customer cash to around the $49k range. They also list a similar truck with the Z71 package as closer to $46k based on the "Dealer discount" being higher, it has a standard bed, and I am more looking at the short bed because I park in a parking deck for the next few months. Any idea why they would list a truck that looks to be equipped the same but without a Z71 as higher than a truck with this package. I can afford to pay more, but I don't want to have to and don't want to get scammed.

How much do you think I can get them down to and what approach should I take? I have read that you should find out the invoice price that the dealer paid, but I am not sure where to find this information. The websites I have seen so far to get the invoice price seem to just be scamming sites trying to get my personal information to bombard me with ads and phone calls. 

Thanks in advance for helping me with my naivety.

The 3.0L Duramax with the 10-speed is highly sought after right now and rightly so.  I have one and it's incredible.  Throughly impressed with it.

 

I had to custom order my 2020 back in August last year and yet I still got a great deal on it, about 12.75% off MSRP.  

 

If you are looking to get the latest and greatest, and can hold on purchasing till the end of the year, then wait on the 2022 to come out as it will be a mid-cycle refresh with a refreshed front end, major update to the interior similar to the new Tahoe's and Surburban's.

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted

Check the options list carefully -- they can easily change the MSRP of the vehicle. 

Take a photo of the window sheet.

Be aware that the left hand side will list the 'standard equipment' for the trim/engine that is listed at top of sheet.  The options are listed to the right hand, and sometimes override what is listed as standard.

 

Go to GM's website and check out the 'offers' they have for your area.  They change every month.  Different districts can have different programs offered.

Some dealers are pretty good at implying a 'discount' as there own, even if it just the GM discount. 

 

Sometimes the 'programs' include offers of financing.  Sometimes is financing OR dollars discount.  Sometimes its better to finance yourself at a bank/credit union.  

 

Double cabs all have a standard bed.

Crew cab (1500's) can have a standard bed or a short bed. 

The crew-short is the same overall length as the double cab standard.   

On RST, 2wd crew is only available with shortbed, 4wd crew can be std or short;  on DC they are all 4wd  std (may have something to do with the price differences)

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Transmission Temperature Hitting 220s

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Most thermostatically controlled ATF systems use a 'wax' pill just like the one in your water thermostat. They work on the expansion volume of the wax and the pill is constructed in such a way as to limit the travel to remain within that range. This means it has an opening temperature often called the 'cracking temperature' and a fully open temperature. For whatever reason oil is designated by it's fully open temperature and water by it's cracking temperature.    Between the two it the "Regulating Temperature" The entire range is about 20 F from closed to open. In your example the lower limit, opening point of 145 F then has a fully open temp of 165 F and a throttling temperature of 155 F.    Thing is, the throttling temperature needs two things to work properly. Enough system load high enough to reach the minimum and a heat sink (cooler/exchanger) large enough to prevent any load applied from exceeding the fully open temperature.    If your system exceeds the fully open temperature it is screaming MORE COOLER.    Here is the silly part of the whole thermostat system where the oil is cooled/heated by the radiator. Nothing is flowing to that system until the oil temperature reaches the cracking temperature unless it is equipped with a minimum flow bypass orifice or a bypass built into the seating surface of the plunger. That system meant to get it up to temp quicker isn't doing a thing until WORK drives if from ambient to cracking temp. One a cold winter day, like zero F, it may never get hotter than about 110 F. Sometimes not even that.    People forget or are young enough to not know that until this millennia transmissions were cooled by the radiator cold tank alone and without a thermostat at all.  In the 50's they weren't even cooled. OEMs learn everything the hard way.    When an OEM tells you the trans "Works best" between 175 F and 220 F it means works best for THEM. The transmission thermostat is fuel play. If you watch you trans temps like I do you will learn that it may take a hundred miles if you are not towing and not driving more than say 55-60 mph on a zero F day to even reach 120 F and it might sit there all day if it's colder. Yet if functions perfectly over about 100 F. It may need to get a bit warmer for the fuel and spark maps to go without an multiplier.    Worry more about too hot. Use a cooler large enough to put that thermostat in range.         
    • KARNUT
      Gas Prices

      By KARNUT · Posted

      Around 2008 if memory serves they took sulfur out. That was when diesel went up. 
    • richard wysong
      Gas Prices

      By richard wysong · Posted

      Question for you Grumpy, why is diesel so much more than gasoline? Seems to me that it may be slightly a little less refined than gas and it doesn't have 10% alcohol which presumably lowers the price of gas
    • TrueBlue
      Transmission Temperature Hitting 220s

      By TrueBlue · Posted

      Thanks, so being a different beast altogether, anyone know what the "optimal" temp is for the 10L80/90 for proper shifting?
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      How many years have I pointed out every point in that link to the folks here and been avalanched with criticisms and outright hostilities at times? I ran counter to even the great CUSTOMBOSS and Lake Speed Jr and the half dozen experts on YouTube and in the final.....GM, Physics (Stribeck) backs that Grumpy old Bear.    Honestly, I never said a thing engineering hadn't studied silly and laid in concrete during WWII. But I'm old, the information is old and yet, the Laws of Physics are eternal.    Okay there is one exception. I vehemently disagree with their use of the word 'tolerances' when what it meant is "clearance".   The clearance is the distance between two objects. The tolerance is the degree of acceptable variation permitted in that clearance. I.E., piston to bore clearance is 0.004" with a tolerance of +/- .0002" so the clearance is in specification if it lies between 0.0038" and 0.0042". Cutting that 'tolerance in half has ZERO impact on lubrication requirements. Makes for more difficulty in manufacturing.  But a tighter clearance 'MAY'. Depends on finish. Anyway....   It's one of those statements made by people to make themselves look smarter than they are to convince people who are as un-enlighten as they seem to manipulate their behaviors. But hey, the blind leading the blind puts them both in the pit. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...