Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey how’s it going Chevy crew. I have a 2021 Chevy Silverado trailboss 6.2. I just did a resonator delete and installed a flow master 40 series. Does this void my warranty in any way? What’s been your experience? Thanks.

Posted

It sounds like a 6.2 engine should sound. I was just debating if I should buy the borla GM cat back exhaust they sell for like $1700 or install flow master and resonator delete for $300

Posted

Good morning,

Nah, you didn't void your warranty in any way. Per the law(Magnuson Moss Act), modifications made to the vehicle that affected said items would be excluded from warranty coverage if an issue arose, or if they were found to have created/caused another issue. Example, since you changed your exhaust a bit, say you had an issue with something related to it, they could push back and fault you. But, say your transmission acts up some time later, it's still covered because that's unrelated to the exhaust. Not the best examples, but hopefully it paints the picture. It seems the only time folks really void majority of their warranty is when they tune a vehicle, otherwise it's just item by item with aftermarket mods if issues come up.

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, RStrain56 said:

 Not the best examples
 

Obviously, really bad info.

If for some reason the engine were to run lean and eat a pistion or 2 that would be on the OPs dime.

Posted
Obviously, really bad info.
If for some reason the engine were to run lean and eat a pistion or 2 that would be on the OPs dime.
I'm looking at it more as if it were from the muffler on back and no upstream sensors were affected, then any issue such as what you stated would be hard for the warranty to be denied. Sure, if a full exhaust system were swapped, O2 sensors altered, cats removed/replaced, then absolutely. But per the way the act reads, not for what he did in my opinion. A simple muffler swap shouldn't cause any issue such as that and if it did, I know I personally would go to hell and back before that were from my dime.

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk

Posted

Will it cause you any warranty issues if something happens to your truck? Probably not. 

 

But that's a larger "probably" risk, IMO. Dealers are getting more and more stingy about stuff like this. They very well could make a case that your aftermarket exhaust caused some mechanical malfunction. Sure, you could go after them and waste 6 months of your life and spending lots of $ (and opportunity cost $) to prove them wrong. 

 

It's all up to you, OP. I bought the GM catback because I didn't want any chance of this kind of circus show with my local dealer (who have already show they would pull something like this). 


If my truck were out of the powertrain warranty, or close to it, I would not have cared and put a cheaper exhaust on it. 

  • Like 1
Posted
Would a flow master muffler and resonator delete make engine run leaner?
Mine didn't, and it shouldn't. I removed my muffler and flapper valves and put on a Flowmaster Super 44. I put about 1k miles on it before I reverted back to stock just because I wasn't a fan of the drone and hearing the DFM.

I guess I need to throw on a disclaimer before I'm hit with giving "bad" info again. As some others said, there's always a risk when modding and you have to "pay to play" some times. But, what you're doing is a very common set up with what seems to be very little or no problems.

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk

Posted
21 minutes ago, RStrain56 said:

Mine didn't, and it shouldn't. I removed my muffler and flapper valves and put on a Flowmaster Super 44. I put about 1k miles on it before I reverted back to stock just because I wasn't a fan of the drone and hearing the DFM.

I guess I need to throw on a disclaimer before I'm hit with giving "bad" info again. As some others said, there's always a risk when modding and you have to "pay to play" some times. But, what you're doing is a very common set up with what seems to be very little or no problems.

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
 

Just put some Duratracs on.. you won't hear it over the drone of the tires :)

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
46 minutes ago, Claudio Salgado said:

Would a flow master muffler and resonator delete make engine run leaner?

 

 

Its all sound.  That's all you are really changing is just sound.  

 

If you were doing catted long tube headers?  That would require a touch of tuning to take advantage of the added airflow.  

Edited by newdude
  • Like 1
Posted
Just put some Duratracs on.. you won't hear it over the drone of the tires [emoji4]
Hahaha, if only this thread had happened a couple weeks ago, [emoji1787]

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk

Posted
2 hours ago, RStrain56 said:

Hahaha, if only this thread had happened a couple weeks ago, emoji1787.png

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
 

I am only aware of it as my buddy has a Trailboss himself and has a 40 series.  Says he can't hear the exhaust over the tires and I'd be inclined to believe it.  They are not quiet :)

Posted
5 hours ago, Rob Mugs said:

I am only aware of it as my buddy has a Trailboss himself and has a 40 series.  Says he can't hear the exhaust over the tires and I'd be inclined to believe it.  They are not quiet :)

You should hear the territory MT tires on the AT4 carbonpro. I wonder if I replace just the muffler with a borla attak and keep everything else on the exhaust stock,  will I hear it over the tires?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...