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Alternate wiring for Kicker sub with Bose system. (DO THIS)

Tjeli

By Tjeli
in Modifications, Wheels & Tires

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Tjeli Enthusiast

Tjeli

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18 hours ago, Brunsk13 said:

Just curious, I'm getting ready to rewire my Kicker sub but looking at the original photos and then reading the wire color configurations, there looks to be a mismatch.  The photo shows the Kicker green wire connected to a white wire that is then connected to the blue wire but it was stated that green connects to green?  Just need some clarification before I dig into this.  Also, does it take much to take the console apart?

 

The pictures were of my original install.  I have since switched green to green and believe it sounds a little better.  (I mentioned this in an update to this thread) Phase is not an exact science in a car.  Especially when you are only dealing with 0 or 180.

 

-Eli

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Aircraft800
Aircraft800

I wouldn’t get intimidated by someone else’s write up, it’s really not bad. I’m fat and old and it was no problem routing the power wire threw the firewall.  I used the Online Installation Guide

Tjeli
Tjeli

Hey Everyone,   I'm posting this in this forum because it is specific to T1 trucks but the same principle can be applied to other years.   First of all I do consider myself an audi

Tjeli
Tjeli

there’s more than one SVS in my main system. 😉

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Brunsk13 New Member

Brunsk13

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Just rewired my sub from the front to the sub wire and I can notice a difference.  It does hit more like the sub should, as does not have the full spectrum of music coming through it anymore, only the lows now.  The only thing is that I had to switch all of the dip switches on the amp to up to get any volume from the sub. The wired gain knob from the amp is also full volume. The EQ set to +7, -1,+10.

 Does this sound right?  I'm just worried the amp may overheat and shut off if it is played at this setting for an extended period? 

TSchevy Enthusiast

TSchevy

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59 minutes ago, Brunsk13 said:

Just rewired my sub from the front to the sub wire and I can notice a difference.  It does hit more like the sub should, as does not have the full spectrum of music coming through it anymore, only the lows now.  The only thing is that I had to switch all of the dip switches on the amp to up to get any volume from the sub. The wired gain knob from the amp is also full volume. The EQ set to +7, -1,+10.

 Does this sound right?  I'm just worried the amp may overheat and shut off if it is played at this setting for an extended period? 

Something doesn’t seem right. I have 1st 2 dips down with #3 up, no gain knob, and my bass EQ is set to 5 and it hits pretty good.  With all three up the bass was massively too much for my liking. Wasn’t clean at all.  

Brunsk13 New Member

Brunsk13

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Yes, with the dip switches down (or 1 up), it does almost nothing, which was surprising compared to the volume it was previously putting out with the old wiring configuration.  It's hitting good now but having the amp maxed out really concerns me.

Brunsk13 New Member

Brunsk13

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Got it figured out finally.  One of the T connectors was faulty so I replaced it and boom, I'm in business.  I set the dip switches back down, reset the EQ and WOW, this thing sounds great!  Thanks for all the info to help make this sub finally come alive. 

Tjeli Enthusiast

Tjeli

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On 9/29/2021 at 9:45 PM, TSchevy said:

 

Something doesn’t seem right. I have 1st 2 dips down with #3 up, no gain knob, and my bass EQ is set to 5 and it hits pretty good.  With all three up the bass was massively too much for my liking. Wasn’t clean at all.  

 

Having dip 3 up does not do anything if one and two are down.

TSchevy Enthusiast

TSchevy

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I wasn’t sure, but that’s where I left it while experimenting.  
What do the switches need to be set to for the control knob to function?

  • 2 months later...
smooth68 Enthusiast

smooth68

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Posted (edited)
On 9/14/2021 at 5:24 PM, Thomas Rodriguez said:

 

Any chance anyone wants to share a little video on where the sub wires are and how you got to them? I think this could make install much easier for most.

Sorry all...I've read through these post and I'm still not seeing where anyone has listed the factory sub wires to use when connecting the Kicker sub for alternate wiring. Can anyone help an old rocker out with this info? Much appreciated!

 

 

Update

So after reading through this one more time I believe I'm on the right track now, lol!

 

Edited by smooth68
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  • 1 month later...
iceytys Enthusiast

iceytys

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Not to hi-jack this thread, as I just purchased the kicker sub and am following this upgrade.   I also purchased a set of kicker component 6x9 door speakers.  Does anyone know if the front door signal is a full range signal??    If not, would I need to tap the tweeters off the dash speakers instead?

 

Thanks all and I will be following the advise on this thread for the 10" woofer...good stuff

smooth68 Enthusiast

smooth68

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2 hours ago, iceytys said:

Not to hi-jack this thread, as I just purchased the kicker sub and am following this upgrade.   I also purchased a set of kicker component 6x9 door speakers.  Does anyone know if the front door signal is a full range signal??    If not, would I need to tap the tweeters off the dash speakers instead?

 

Thanks all and I will be following the advise on this thread for the 10" woofer...good stuff

 

You are non-Bose I take it? I'm almost positive the front door speakers are full range, but also just a single channel.

iceytys Enthusiast

iceytys

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On 1/26/2022 at 12:18 PM, bell1658 said:

4play wheels? What size? Looks good!

 

On 2/1/2022 at 9:36 AM, smooth68 said:

 

You are non-Bose I take it? I'm almost positive the front door speakers are full range, but also just a single channel.

No, I have Bose

smooth68 Enthusiast

smooth68

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6 minutes ago, iceytys said:

 

No, I have Bose

Oh, ok I was just wondering since you said you were replacing the door speakers an I was thinking the Bose speakers weren't normal 4 ohm car audio type. Have you installed them yet?

 

I've had my Kicker sub installed for about a month now, tapped the bose sub leads, and running a bass knob. I'm more that happy with the results. Very impressive for what it is.

  • 2 weeks later...
smooth68 Enthusiast

smooth68

Posted
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5 hours ago, johnathanryan30 said:

Where did you connect the base knob too. 

There’s a place on the amp for it

johnathanryan30 Enthusiast

johnathanryan30

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On 8/29/2021 at 1:48 PM, Goodtill said:

20210829_145430.jpg

I have a similar system, #19303115 from stillwater designs. It's the dual 200/400W Sub-Woofer and amp kit I got given to me from a friend. I keep getting told that it's not compatible with the premium bose system in the 2019 2500 hd ltz (which I'm guessing means that it comes with the wrong harness to connect to my system). If that is the case, I'm hoping you can answer how do I get this system to work properly before I tear into everything and find out it won't work? Also I was reading this thread and it said something about the switches on the amp. The one I have in the kit has no switches... any insight or advice would be greatly appreciated. TIA 

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