Alternate wiring for Kicker sub with Bose system. (DO THIS)

[Joshua Place]

2 hours ago, mdarcaro said:

Hoping this set up will work with the suggestions in this post… I have the 10” Kicker Hideaway sub which is powered. The wiring on the included harness is:

White: Left+

White/Black: Left-

Gray: Right+
Gray/Black: Right-

 

Wondering what the correct wiring is to connect with the Blue/Gray and Green/Black OEM subwoofer wires.

 

How are you connecting the harness to the OEM wires? Subwoofer is mono so you need to connect the two negatives on the harness to the subwoofer green/black and the two positive to the subwoofer blue/grey. I just installed a Rockford fosgate p300-10T. Happy to answer any questions I can and help out. 

[mdarcaro]

On 4/15/2023 at 7:19 PM, Joshua Place said:

How are you connecting the harness to the OEM wires? Subwoofer is mono so you need to connect the two negatives on the harness to the subwoofer green/black and the two positive to the subwoofer blue/grey. I just installed a Rockford fosgate p300-10T. Happy to answer any questions I can and help out. 

This answered my question perfectly. I was stumped since my subwoofer harness has 4 wires and the OEM harness on the truck only had 2, but that makes perfect sense. Going to run the cables this week and get it going. Thanks so much for the help. 

[Matt Mobley]

Lots of useful info in this thread! Just wish i could find one for non-bose trucks. Hoping you guys can point me in the right direction though!

2022 Silverado LT All Star Edition(Refresh without bose)

I am trying to figure out the best place to tap in for my LOC to hook my system up. I cant even find a wiring diagram to show me which colors correlate to which speaker. Anyone able to save the day?

Thanks in advance

[Louie Foster]

Ok, per earlier post the new subs don't have the dip switches or a port for remote gain control. I still connected to the subwoofer lines, much easier in the read passenger area of the vehicle AND... It was toooooo much bass. Even setting the bass as far back on the stereo as possible it was too much. Switching the phase helped - a little. But it was still too much unless listing to hip hop. It sounded really good with that FWIW. I eventually tapped into the yellow and yellow black, played with the phase through a few different genres and it is much better to my ears.

 

If you go to the rear seat passenger kick plate to access the wires it bends up easily and it gives you access to both the yellows and the green/blue. If you have a newer unit without the ability to add a remote gain control, the yellow maybe the way to go to get a more even sound. 

[Jammed_Open]

On 5/22/2023 at 2:02 PM, Louie Foster said:

Ok, per earlier post the new subs don't have the dip switches or a port for remote gain control. I still connected to the subwoofer lines, much easier in the read passenger area of the vehicle AND... It was toooooo much bass. Even setting the bass as far back on the stereo as possible it was too much. Switching the phase helped - a little. But it was still too much unless listing to hip hop. It sounded really good with that FWIW. I eventually tapped into the yellow and yellow black, played with the phase through a few different genres and it is much better to my ears.

 

If you go to the rear seat passenger kick plate to access the wires it bends up easily and it gives you access to both the yellows and the green/blue. If you have a newer unit without the ability to add a remote gain control, the yellow maybe the way to go to get a more even sound. 

I have the new one. I called kicker about the lack of remote bass control knob. They said they just ran out of the amps with the dip switches and bass knob input, but GM wanted them to keep selling the units so they used the "new" amps without those features. Kind of crappy. Does anyone know how to hardwire a bass knob if the amp doesn't have the bass knob jack?

Edited June 15, 2023 by Jammed_Open

[Spook]

On 7/30/2021 at 10:30 AM, Tjeli said:

Hey Everyone,

 

I'm posting this in this forum because it is specific to T1 trucks but the same principle can be applied to other years.

 

First of all I do consider myself an audiophile.  Not so much in vehicle systems but I don't want to add up how much time and money I have spent over the last 30 or so years searching for the perfect, limitless, balanced sound in my home systems.  If you would like to know what I run at home you can PM me.

 

Now on to the point.  I had some free GM accessory money to use up so I decided to give the Kicker sub upgrade a try.  It sounded "ok" and did make quite a bit of bass.  I would seem to get it dialed in for one type of music and then it would sound muddy and bloated on a different type.  It was also very heavy in the upper mid bass.  In case anyone was wondering what the DIP switches do for SURE on the Kicker amp here you go. (I measured them)  Switch 1,2 and 3 are gain.  There are 4 settings from all 3 down to all 3 up.  Switch 4 is the remote turn on selection.  Switch 5 turns the crossover on or off.  Switch 6 adjusts the slope of the crossover from 24db (on) to 12db (off).  I firmly believe that the way Kicker ships these is the proper setting for our trucks. (1,4,5 and 6 up and 2 and 3 down)

 

One thing that really bothered me about the install of the Kicker sub is that they are pulling their input signal from the right front speaker only.  Does the Bose system have a high pass roll off programmed into that channel?  What about music that has bass dedicated to the left channel only?  What happens when you start to overdrive that channel in the Bose amp?

 

Say what you will about Bose but one thing they do well is "tuning" a system in a vehicle so that it sounds good at all volume levels to the majority of people.  Read that sentence again.  This is all done with a LOT of eq, monitoring the amp channels for compression and clipping and attenuating certain frequency ranges at higher volume levels.  The result is a system that plays loud and sounds "decent" for the majority of consumers while staying within the budget given to them by the auto manufacturer.

 

Enough rambling.  After a bunch of digging I found the wires that run to the factory Bose sub.  I tapped these for the input to the Kicker amp.  To my ears it sounds 100 times better.  Much more balanced at all volume levels and with all types of music.  It is cleaner and hits harder with less overhang.  It also plays bass from both channels now.  I really have to recommend this to anyone that has the Kicker sub upgrade.  Hit me up if you have questions.

 

-Eli

 

 

 

 

 

What were the colors of the leads you tapped into going to the sub (I assume green and blue), and which is positive, and which is negative?  I want to avoid reversing the polarity to my kicker amp, and having the factory sub and kicker sub out of phase. 

[__Roy__]

I also got the amp without the dip switches and it kinda stinks.   I bought a universal base remote and am going to try and hardwire it to the tapped wire (blue & blue/brown).   I think this should allow me to attenuate the sub without messing with the eq on other speakers. 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073S2BVP6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[TSchevy]

Below is the model number from Kicker for the amp with switches and port for control knob.  I had to have mine replaced under warranty.  I was trying to buy a replacement, luckily it ended up not costing me. Maybe Kicker will sell it separately for those interested. 

 

KHBTL003AB

[Dunn]

I may do (have it done, lol) this to my 23 high country 2500....not that impressed with bose system....its OK but wouldn't consider it premium....am not a fanantic by any means

 

Just want it crisp,clean and clear...

 

I did speakers only to my 21 elevation (non bose) and it was a waste....should either go all the way or leave it stock

[Matt Mobley]

I know this is an old post, and forgive me if it’s already been asked, but where would you recommend tapping in at for non Bose trucks? I have a 2022 refresh all star edition I’m wanting to put some bass in. Got everything to do it, just don’t know if I’m good tapping into rear door speakers for LOC and I’m pretty uneducated on the new ANC stuff. Any help is appreciated!

[warddog]

On 12/1/2023 at 12:48 AM, Matt Mobley said:

I know this is an old post, and forgive me if it’s already been asked, but where would you recommend tapping in at for non Bose trucks? I have a 2022 refresh all star edition I’m wanting to put some bass in. Got everything to do it, just don’t know if I’m good tapping into rear door speakers for LOC and I’m pretty uneducated on the new ANC stuff. Any help is appreciated!

These guys offer a T-Harness, www.t-harness.com, that will provide signal from the front channels. It's recommended to get your signal from the front doors rather than the rear. They also have ANC bypasses.

[Matt Mobley]

You are the man! Ordered the harness just waiting for it to come in!

[Kerry Pulaski]

On 9/1/2023 at 11:02 PM, Dunn said:

I may do (have it done, lol) this to my 23 high country 2500....not that impressed with bose system....its OK but wouldn't consider it premium....am not a fanantic by any means

 

Just want it crisp,clean and clear...

 

I did speakers only to my 21 elevation (non bose) and it was a waste....should either go all the way or leave it stock

Just saw these posts, a bit late, but another '24 owner  and I, with Denali and Bose, replaced the "A" Pillar and Dash corner speakers, with different brands to test. Mine : Kicker Tweeters in "A" Pillars, (left out the 6mfd. Cap crossovers on the stock Bose), and Pioneer Co-Ax A709 2.5" in dash corners ( also did not use a crossover). WOKE it up greatly. Left the center  dash as is for now (blends both L&R channels.

He, @sswails, used Audio Frog speakers and tweeters in "A" Pillars and dash corners. After our lengthy comparisons, I consider him a very high end car audiophile.

NO distortion from these at all. BE Mind-full, to replace with the Lowest Ohm speaker available, for ANY replacement location. Dash OR Doors. This to keep the Bose Amp, at peak performance.

My Denali also has Tweeters in the top of the rear doors. Replaced them with Kickers as well. Now can hear those well.

 

Factory GM Kicker rear Sub kits..... (2) versions. Early one had a Remote Bass Control port on the Amp, and Flush White Molex Input Female for harness. Latter ones due to chip shortage ( a Kicker Tech explained), with a Pigtail input harness, does not have remote Bass knob option.  This Kicker tech said , new production  units, will resume the first version Remote Bass capability. Did not give a date.

 

Due to the GM Kicker Sub new non-Bass Remote, I got a Kicker "Hideaway 10", 46HS10, with built in 180 watt amp. Includes the Bass Remote knob and cable. Extremely compact.  Tapped into under  rear Passenger scuff rocker plate, next to seat. Easy access to BOTH twisted pair Yel & Yel/BK (goes to Right Front Door), OR the Gn/Bk & Bl/Gy (to Sub in centwe console).  I put "T" Taps on all 4 wires to test.

So far testing the R.F. is OK.  Will do the Ctr. Sub next. So far is great. The Remote Bass control pt is a Huge help, to fine tune it to every type of music. Also this Sub, has a continuously adjustable Crossover, Boost, Level. Has Hi/Low Speaker Source Level input, Phase / 180, Remote Turn On Type. All in $370.00.  Enough Bass to vibrate the rear view door mirrors.

The "Hideaway"

[Kerry Pulaski]

On 6/15/2023 at 2:04 PM, Jammed_Open said:

I have the new one. I called kicker about the lack of remote bass control knob. They said they just ran out of the amps with the dip switches and bass knob input, but GM wanted them to keep selling the units so they used the "new" amps without those features. Kind of crappy. Does anyone know how to hardwire a bass knob if the amp doesn't have the bass knob jack?

Just saw this.....The GM Kicker Sub amps without this Bass Remote, CANNOT be updated to the Bass Remote version. I did speak to a Kicker Tech today, with the Amp Only replacement # WITH the Bass Remote. That part is only for Warranty Replacement, and NOT for Retail Sale to update an operational one without it.

For the $$, Look at the Kicker #46HS10 "Hide-Away". Has every feature, wirks with OR without a Bose GM system.

Vibrates my door mirrors just fine.

Use the speaker wire taps everyone has listed. Right Front, or Arm Rest Sub if one is there.

[MrLeadFoot]

On 2/5/2024 at 12:10 PM, Kerry Pulaski said:

Just saw this.....The GM Kicker Sub amps without this Bass Remote, CANNOT be updated to the Bass Remote version. I did speak to a Kicker Tech today, with the Amp Only replacement # WITH the Bass Remote. That part is only for Warranty Replacement, and NOT for Retail Sale to update an operational one without it.

For the $$, Look at the Kicker #46HS10 "Hide-Away". Has every feature, wirks with OR without a Bose GM system.

Vibrates my door mirrors just fine.

Use the speaker wire taps everyone has listed. Right Front, or Arm Rest Sub if one is there.

Looks like the GM kicker is designed to keep as much storage under the back seat as possible, whereas the hideaway will eat up what little room is there. Will that hideaway fit under a front seat without getting crushed when a seat is lowered all the way? If not, what about the one-step-down hideaway 8" model, will that fit under a front seat?