Alternate wiring for Kicker sub with Bose system. (DO THIS)

MrLeadFoot · February 20, 2024

On 8/21/2023 at 6:31 PM, __Roy__ said:

I also got the amp without the dip switches and it kinda stinks. I bought a universal base remote and am going to try and hardwire it to the tapped wire (blue & blue/brown). I think this should allow me to attenuate the sub without messing with the eq on other speakers.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073S2BVP6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Did you get this to work?

White LTZ · February 27, 2024

I was able to find the "older" version of the sub/amp on FB marketplace. It was used but in really great condition. I did the install last week using the original Kicker/GM instructions by tapping into the yellow and yellow/black in the passenger door jamb. Put all the dip switches up and added the Kicker bass control knob as mentioned in this thread. It sounds really good and makes a huge difference. I had planned to try the alternate Bose sub wiring but I'm happy as-is. Just letting everyone know there are some of the older models for sale out there. Also noticed the amp is two channel and there are four wires going to the sub so it must be dual voice coil. The amp is very similar in size and appearance the Kicker KEY series amps and is probably based off of these. I think one of the KEY series amps could be used to drive the sub with some wiring changes and adjustments. Picture of amp attached with the dip switch settings in the original positions.

Derek99 · February 28, 2024

On 3/7/2022 at 11:07 AM, iceytys said:

the fronts were mounted recessed in the door panel and the rears were surfaced mounted at the top of the door panel. I didnt want the tweeters down low with the low end speakers. As mentioned however currently the front door tweeters dont work since its not a full range signal, I am sure I will probably update that soon, but for now at least they are installed and I wont have to take off the door panel in the future.

I agree and seems like there is hardly any sound in the rear of the truck for mids\highs.

How did you wire up these 6.5 component speakers with the Bose system? Anything special to do with swapping them out?

I'm fine with the front but may want to add more sound to the door speakers. Thanks

MrLeadFoot · February 28, 2024

I assume that since the GM Kicker system works with Bose and non-Bose that the factory speaker wires you tap into are speaker level signal, is that correct?

If so, can someone with the newer model that has no remote volume level or dipswitches tell me if the Kicker comes with a separate hi-lo converter attached to the wires that tap into the existing system speaker wires, or are the Kicker wires directly connected to the amp (indicating that the speaker level signal is being converted to low-level internally by the amp)?

I ask, because it there is separate hi-lo converter, perhaps we can attentuate the signal feeding the amp with a 3rd party remote knob that controls low-level signal. I am not sure if that can be done with speaker level signal.

Edited February 28, 2024 by MrLeadFoot

Daniel Formichelli · February 28, 2024

Negative. If I remember correctly It was just tap into the harness. The blueish looking one. See pictures. You can buy a t-harness and possibly due that. Not sure though.

MrLeadFoot · February 28, 2024

What a bummer. When bought my 2022, i thought about buying that sub kit, but opted to wait a bit. Now, when I'm ready to buy one there's no remote volume! That's ridiculous, and is a no-go for me. I happen to have a Kicker sub and amp in my Vette, and from my experience you absolutely need to be able to control the sub separately. There's simply no single setting that sounds good with all music. Without that separate volume control one song sounds good then the next sounds like crap. I can't even imagine trying to turn bass up and down with the stock infotainment system in my truck for every song. The control is buried so deep in the system and trying to fine tune it on a touchscreen while driving would be next to impossible. You'd have to leave your screen in audio settings mode and try to hit just the right spots on the slider all the time. Kicker and GM blew it by making that change. I wonder how that Kicker hideaway 10" sounds compared to the GM version. It's half the price and has all the controls.

Kerry Pulaski · March 24, 2024

Have been running the Kicker Hide Away Sub 200 watt, a month now. Sits on top the rear seat storage bin, just touches the seat underside, no loss of storage. All the Bass I need. Put the volume control inside the center console, with Velcro. Easy to fine tune level to taste.

Choice to tap into signal, is either passenger front door speaker source wires, or the center console sub source. Both pairs of these wires are under the passenger rear scuff door sill plate plastic cover. I'm using the Front Right signal now. Will also try the Bose Sub center console signal at some point , as I think it has a better crossover HZ limit. A lot of mid range comes from the RF speaker signal.

I'm out of space to post any more pix.

Kerry Pulaski · March 24, 2024

On 2/27/2024 at 8:45 PM, MrLeadFoot said:

I assume that since the GM Kicker system works with Bose and non-Bose that the factory speaker wires you tap into are speaker level signal, is that correct?

If so, can someone with the newer model that has no remote volume level or dipswitches tell me if the Kicker comes with a separate hi-lo converter attached to the wires that tap into the existing system speaker wires, or are the Kicker wires directly connected to the amp (indicating that the speaker level signal is being converted to low-level internally by the amp)?

I ask, because it there is separate hi-lo converter, perhaps we can attentuate the signal feeding the amp with a 3rd party remote knob that controls low-level signal. I am not sure if that can be done with speaker level signal.

I went with the Kicker Hide Away Sub, 200 watt. Comes with the remote, and adjustable crossover and attenuation on the amp itself. Tap into where the GM kit does, L.F. door speaker. Easy place wire harness feeds from rear passenger carpet door sill cover on my Bose system, possibly non-bose.

Also can place it under the rear seat, and not loose storage.

KP.

Kerry Pulaski · March 24, 2024

On 2/28/2024 at 11:08 AM, MrLeadFoot said:

What a bummer. When bought my 2022, i thought about buying that sub kit, but opted to wait a bit. Now, when I'm ready to buy one there's no remote volume! That's ridiculous, and is a no-go for me. I happen to have a Kicker sub and amp in my Vette, and from my experience you absolutely need to be able to control the sub separately. There's simply no single setting that sounds good with all music. Without that separate volume control one song sounds good then the next sounds like crap. I can't even imagine trying to turn bass up and down with the stock infotainment system in my truck for every song. The control is buried so deep in the system and trying to fine tune it on a touchscreen while driving would be next to impossible. You'd have to leave your screen in audio settings mode and try to hit just the right spots on the slider all the time. Kicker and GM blew it by making that change. I wonder how that Kicker hideaway 10" sounds compared to the GM version. It's half the price and has all the controls.

See my post below, on the Kicker HideAway Sub Kit.

Kerry Pulaski · March 24, 2024

Search for posts and pix for tweeters. We put a bunch on there with pix for all speakers in our dull sounding Bose system, with another member @sswails. We replaced every Bose speaker, dash, A Pillars, dash corners, front doors rear doors top and bottom,

and a Sub.

MrLeadFoot · March 24, 2024

14 hours ago, Kerry Pulaski said:

Have been running the Kicker Hide Away Sub 200 watt, a month now. Sits on top the rear seat storage bin, just touches the seat underside, no loss of storage. All the Bass I need. Put the volume control inside the center console, with Velcro. Easy to fine tune level to taste.

Choice to tap into signal, is either passenger front door speaker source wires, or the center console sub source. Both pairs of these wires are under the passenger rear scuff door sill plate plastic cover. I'm using the Front Right signal now. Will also try the Bose Sub center console signal at some point , as I think it has a better crossover HZ limit. A lot of mid range comes from the RF speaker signal.

I'm out of space to post any more pix.

Spoke to Kicker recently. They said all the new GM kits now have the remote bass port, but there are still many of the stupid no-remote models out there. To me, the problem with that is no one actually carries these units locally, so it's a crap shoot if you buy one online, unless the vendor is going to open the box and look, which none do because the front line phone people have no access to the stock itself. On top of that, NONE of the new models have crossover adjustments and they're factory set at 100hz, so you can't adjust down to 80hz if you want, for example.

I also asked the tech why they instruct you to tap right front signal, and specifically told him that some music is mixed to have bass panned more left, so why don't they have accommodations for tapping and summing both left and right, and he said Bose systems are tuned to carry the same bass level on left and right. I then asked why they don't simply say to tap the sub signal instead of a full range signal and he said because then you're limited to whatever frequency Bose set for their lo-pass, and I could swear he said it was 80 or 100hz, but I didn't write it down (dumb move on my part).

Now, your unit has crossover adjustment, so there no reason for you to tap the sub signal. I fact, it would be a waste of your time. Why? Because you have full signal tapping into that right signal, so you can adjust your lo-pass to whatever your heart desires. For example, if you want more mid-bass to come to your sub, say 120hz, you can set your crossover higher, but if if you tapped the Bose sub signal you would be limited to 100hz (or 80). You said you have plenty of power for your sub, so I would leave it tapped into that right signal because you have a full range to play with to your choosing. You mentioned you have too much mid-bass, so all you have to do it turn your crossover frequency knob to a lower setting. New GM model owners are out of luck. For what it's worth, I have a kicker amp in my Vette I definitely use the crossover setting knob, and use the remote knob ALL the time, so I have it mounted near my gear shifter so I can immediately adjust the sub volume for any song.

Now, as to your placement, you said you have it sitting in TOP of the rear storage bin. Is it the stock storage bin with the carpet or do you have the optioned plastic one? And, on which side, driver or passenger? I like to keep my rear seats folded up, so do you have your fastened in any way, so if you had your seat folded up it will stay put? If not, does it look like it could be fastened somehow? A pic would sure be appreciated if you ever get the chance to take one. And, what exact model do you have? If you turn it up, do you feel the sub a bit in your gut, and can you overpower your Bose system with the sub if you wanted to? Not that I want to turn my system into a rap-mobile or anything, I'm just trying to get a feel for what I would experience if I got the same model.

Derek99 · March 25, 2024

On 3/24/2024 at 10:27 AM, MrLeadFoot said:

Spoke to Kicker recently. They said all the new GM kits now have the remote bass port, but there are still many of the stupid no-remote models out there. To me, the problem with that is no one actually carries these units locally, so it's a crap shoot if you buy one online, unless the vendor is going to open the box and look, which none do because the front line phone people have no access to the stock itself. On top of that, NONE of the new models have crossover adjustments and they're factory set at 100hz, so you can't adjust down to 80hz if you want, for example.

I also asked the tech why they instruct you to tap right front signal, and specifically told him that some music is mixed to have bass panned more left, so why don't they have accommodations for tapping and summing both left and right, and he said Bose systems are tuned to carry the same bass level on left and right. I then asked why they don't simply say to tap the sub signal instead of a full range signal and he said because then you're limited to whatever frequency Bose set for their lo-pass, and I could swear he said it was 80 or 100hz, but I didn't write it down (dumb move on my part).

Now, your unit has crossover adjustment, so there no reason for you to tap the sub signal. I fact, it would be a waste of your time. Why? Because you have full signal tapping into that right signal, so you can adjust your lo-pass to whatever your heart desires. For example, if you want more mid-bass to come to your sub, say 120hz, you can set your crossover higher, but if if you tapped the Bose sub signal you would be limited to 100hz (or 80). You said you have plenty of power for your sub, so I would leave it tapped into that right signal because you have a full range to play with to your choosing. You mentioned you have too much mid-bass, so all you have to do it turn your crossover frequency knob to a lower setting. New GM model owners are out of luck. For what it's worth, I have a kicker amp in my Vette I definitely use the crossover setting knob, and use the remote knob ALL the time, so I have it mounted near my gear shifter so I can immediately adjust the sub volume for any song.

Now, as to your placement, you said you have it sitting in TOP of the rear storage bin. Is it the stock storage bin with the carpet or do you have the optioned plastic one? And, on which side, driver or passenger? I like to keep my rear seats folded up, so do you have your fastened in any way, so if you had your seat folded up it will stay put? If not, does it look like it could be fastened somehow? A pic would sure be appreciated if you ever get the chance to take one. And, what exact model do you have? If you turn it up, do you feel the sub a bit in your gut, and can you overpower your Bose system with the sub if you wanted to? Not that I want to turn my system into a rap-mobile or anything, I'm just trying to get a feel for what I would experience if I got the same model.

That's nice to know they are supplying the new systems with the control knob. Did he say they will also have the dip switches?

I have a 2022 AT4 and just installed the kicker sub that I ordered thru the dealership. Luckily I got an older model to add the control knob. I really think kicker should have changed the part number, so people would know what they are ordering if that was a concern for them!

Currently I have mine tapped into the sub wiring now with the phases crossed like what another member suggested and I think it sounds pretty good, especially at higher volumes. I'll probably swap it back to the right door later on now that I'm getting used to it so I can compare. I find sometimes tapped to the sub its a little overpowering at low levels even with the dip switches set from factory.

One other thing is I find the rear sound is almost non existent coming from the door speakers even if you adjust fade all the way back. Id like to replace rear door speakers with better highs to even sound out better but not sure what's involved.

MrLeadFoot · March 25, 2024

18 minutes ago, Derek99 said:

That's nice to know they are supplying the new systems with the control knob. Did he say they will also have the dip switches?

I have a 2022 AT4 and just installed the kicker sub that I ordered thru the dealership. Luckily I got an older model to add the control knob. I really think kicker should have changed the part number, so people would know what they are ordering if that was a concern for them!

Currently I have mine tapped into the sub wiring now with the phases crossed like what another member suggested and I think it sounds pretty good, especially at higher volumes. I'll probably swap it back to the right door later on now that I'm getting used to it so I can compare. I find sometimes tapped to the sub its a little overpowering at low levels even with the dip switches set from factory.

One other thing is I find the rear sound is almost non existent coming from the door speakers even if you adjust fade all the way back. Id like to replace rear door speakers with better highs to even sound out better but not sure what's involved.

No dip switches, which is a deal breaker for me. I'm scared to spend so much only to find the crossover point might not be to my liking, or it needs more or less gain. Every single one of their other amps has full controls, I don't understand why they would do something like this.

That said, I must admit I do not know exactly what all the switches do. I just know that I spent a lot of time dialing in my crossover, gain, and boost on the kicker Amp in my vette. It's only 150 watts, but it sounds good with how I have it set.

Edited March 25, 2024 by MrLeadFoot

Derek99 · March 25, 2024

1 hour ago, MrLeadFoot said:

No dip switches, which is a deal breaker for me. I'm scared to spend so much only to find the crossover point might not be to my liking, or it needs more or less gain. Every single one of their other amps has full controls, I don't understand why they would do something like this.

That said, I must admit I do not know exactly what all the switches do. I just know that I spent a lot of time dialing in my crossover, gain, and boost on the kicker Amp in my vette. It's only 150 watts, but it sounds good with how I have it set.

I agree it does need to be fine tuned for different songs and how loud the music is. I tried setting the switches up on mine but it seems to be way too much bass for me. I had to put them back like they had it set. If I set the 1st 3 down I found it to be not enough bass.

MrLeadFoot · March 25, 2024

I assume you mean fine-tuning volume for each song, which you can do with the knob. But, what exactly do the switches do? And, how were they set when you got it? I thought first three were gain, so I assumed if you had them all up, you could just turn down with the remote, but I think what you're saying is that the knob doesn't turn down enough if the gain is too high, right?

Edited March 25, 2024 by MrLeadFoot