Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello,

 

The AC compressor on my 2000 Silverado 1500 has been acting up. It will work on cold starts, but once the truck gets warmed up the compressor clutch will disengage itself and will only work again if I turn it off for a few minutes and let it cool down. 

 

So I thought the solution was to replace the compressor clutch. I watched a video of a guy doing it without having to breach the refrigerant system so I bought the bought and gave it a shot. I took off the intake and fan shroud to get down to the compressor. And I was unable to get the face plate of the clutch off. What was holding on the face plate looked different from what I had seen everywhere else online. I'm assuming the current compressor on it was a replacement before I bought it (I bought it at 172,000 miles). 

 

I attached a couple of photos I was able to get of what is holding on the face plate of the compressor. It looks like some kind of clip, and I assume it's threaded onto the shaft since I never took any nut off before I found it like this.

 

Has anyone seen anything like this before? If so, am I able to even to replace just the clutch? Or is it a better idea to just replace the whole compressor?

 

Trying to keep the old girl going for a while longer. Thanks!

 

 

IMG_1368.PNG

IMG_1367.PNG

Posted

I say replace the whole compressor, if in fact your issue is the compressor assembly.  Make sure you inspect all of your wires very good, preferably when the truck is warm enough to kick the ac off.  Sometimes these wires will heat up because they no longer have a good connection and cause issues, until they cool down enough to allow proper current. 

Posted

Before you go any further I suggest you get the pressure of the system checked, there s a low pressure switch that when the pressure is low will turn off the compressor clutch. Also see if there is a manufacture's data plate on the compressor, go to their web site and see what you can learn there.

Posted
On 8/1/2021 at 5:24 AM, Sharpz said:

I say replace the whole compressor, if in fact your issue is the compressor assembly.  Make sure you inspect all of your wires very good, preferably when the truck is warm enough to kick the ac off.  Sometimes these wires will heat up because they no longer have a good connection and cause issues, until they cool down enough to allow proper current. 

 

I've checked the voltage on the connecter that goes to the compressor with the truck running after the compressor kicked off and I still get about 12 volts. Do you think the wiring could still be the issue even if I'm always getting voltage at the compressor?

Posted
On 8/1/2021 at 8:35 AM, dna9656 said:

Before you go any further I suggest you get the pressure of the system checked, there s a low pressure switch that when the pressure is low will turn off the compressor clutch. Also see if there is a manufacture's data plate on the compressor, go to their web site and see what you can learn there.

 

I've had the system pressures checked and they all looked good. 

 

Good idea with the data plate, I'll definitely try that route. Thanks. 

Posted
9 hours ago, bdawg said:

 

I've checked the voltage on the connecter that goes to the compressor with the truck running after the compressor kicked off and I still get about 12 volts. Do you think the wiring could still be the issue even if I'm always getting voltage at the compressor?

no, not if you are getting that after it shuts off, at least not at the compressor.  Might try to test the actual interior switch that engages the AC.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Does your dealer charge you for the tire rotation on top of the oil change price ?. I haven't had any service work done at my dealer yet other than when I brought it back soon after owning it to have the front end aligned to correct the steering wheel being off center a bit. Oh they called me at least twice hounding me to bring it in for an oil change and pushing a 300.00 package of oil change and tire rotation and whatever other quick simplistic checks they would do. Only going off of what a friend gets charged for his half ton for the basic oil change and its the same amount of oil as the L8T holds, it was about 150.00. Once one buys a set of tires from most shops these days or so I believe, they will do free tire rotations and some do free tire balancing as well as free tire repairs.    Certainly doing a tire rotation is no five minute job, and definitely not at home but because I run a set of winter tires on their own wheels, I swap them at home and its a one tire at a time deal because of the tire season swap although I jack up the rear and do it and drop it back down and then raise the front and do them and coordinate the tire rotation into that process for both sets of tires. I am using a floor jack though and if I need to raise both ends at once I use a couple sets of jack stands to have all four tires off the ground. I use either an air impact or battery impact and have electric impact as well so no shortage there of easy methods to spin the lug nuts, and then retorquing the lug nuts. None of it goes quick though but my wages are cheap though ... zero. I live an hour out of town, its easier just to do things like that myself than waste a bunch of time in town and having to make an appointment and probably a special trip and sit there at the tire shop waiting for them to get my vehicle in and get it done and not screw something up in the process. 
    • I do have the 8 speed.  Interestingly enough, after driving my truck for the past 2 days now, I have not had the clunking issue at all!  I am beginning to think it may have been suspension/leaf spring related, and somehow when the shop put my truck on the lift to do their initial inspection, it relieved some built up tension/pressure that was causing my problem.  I swear it felt I was a bull rider on a bucking bull the way the truck would almost rock back and forth slightly before the big thud/clunk when coming to a stop.  I am hoping I got lucky here and it's gone for good.
    • Bring it to discount tire. They do free rotations even if you didn’t buy your tires there. I didn’t believe it until I tried and they did. You can tip the employee if you would like 
    • Best part of this video is how it resets expectations. Wonderfully done piece. It also made clear a few points I've made from day one. Detergent oils DO NOT KEEP A MOTOR CLEAN at the recommended or longer change intervals. They just get dirty slower than a non-detergent oil and there isn't spits difference between them on this point if they carry the DEXOS license. Great thing about the license that gets missed is it assures CONFORMITY even it that means a low bar.    One thing he did not talk about that I paused on an magnified was the condition of the oil ring separator. Besides a stuck ring a plugged separator and land drain back is huge when it comes control. We see in short order improvement in control IF that is the problem.    Another item I took exception to and he did not make plain was the condition of the timing chest and under valve cover having something to do with indicating piston cleanliness. Schaeffer's Oil makes that same omission in their million mile Ford video. I'm guessing he has never torn down a Red Line HP, AMSOIL SS motor that has been on that diet from the get. What he showed in the video was a good deal of varnish. Something totally absent in Peppers 165K cover off look. I smiled because he did his at the same milage.    He also makes the mistake of assuming oil temperatures in the pan are the temperature all over the motor even though he makes note of the piston being the hottest part of the engine. that baffled me a bit.    I can tell you from personal experience and witnessing teardowns of family motors that even oils of the 1960's would keep them squeaky clean when OCI's were 1500 to 2000 miles without exception. At 3K and above you get what he experienced and the longer you leave it the quicker to gets to the junkyard.    I think his is missing a opportunity not tearing it down again when he's done killing it. Time would be his only cost. 
    • Very often the part number on the trim part is just for the vendor order/assembly plant and will not show up in the parts system.  They won't make a bunch of extra parts that were not ordered. Keep in mind, lots of these parts were made to be "just in time" parts meaning they were dedicated to a vehicles ordered and sequenced for assembly.       Also, trim parts will often say, paint to match.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...