Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

early today I opened the hood while the engine was idling and noticed a clicking sound comming from the throttle body / intake manifold area. I think it has something to do with the variable intake system. the clicking sound is heard twice every second. 

does the intake manifold has an electric motor inside to operate the variable intake manifold? It sounds like the connection between the actuator and electric motor has something to do with it. 

the check engine light does not come on. the engine is a 5.3L and the truck is a 2014 chevrolet silverado ltz.

 

does anyone have an idea what the problem is?

Posted

If its a constant tick with the same rhythm its most likely the high pressure fuel pump or the lifters. Have someone step on the gas. If the rhythm is the same but faster, its those things. 

  • Like 1
Posted

here's an update of the ticking issue.

 

when I increase the rpm the ticking sound does not change. so it's not rpm related.

 

the ticking is heard when the truck has been driven for about 10 minutes. when I shut of the engine after a say 15 minute drive , wait a good 15 minutes and then start it again, the ticking sound is gone. you can hear it but only once a minute or so.

when I open the hood after a 15 minute drive it ticks but when I pull out the throttle body connector the ticking stops immediately and of course the engine goes into a sort of limp mode. so my guess is that the throttle body has something to do with it.

 

so should I replace the throttle body for a new one or is it servicable?

Posted

is the throttle body a part that often fails? or is it a case of bad luck for me.

Posted
7 minutes ago, Larsson said:

is the throttle body a part that often fails? or is it a case of bad luck for me.

Honestly, never have heard of one failing. 

 

Probably makes no difference, but do you get a constant CEL when you unplug the throttle body? If so you could check and see if there are any other codes stored, maybe related to your problem.

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

thank you for your reply jimcost2014 but what does CEL means?

I'll take your advice of checking for some stored codes and post my findings as soon as I have the time to do so.

 

the truck still runs great ,the only problem is the ticking. I don't want to be the guy who gets stranded at the side of the road because I ignored a problem.

Posted
19 minutes ago, Larsson said:

thank you for your reply jimcost2014 but what does CEL means?

I'll take your advice of checking for some stored codes and post my findings as soon as I have the time to do so.

 

the truck still runs great ,the only problem is the ticking. I don't want to be the guy who gets stranded at the side of the road because I ignored a problem.

C(heck) E(ngine) L(ight).  Some use the term S(ervice) E(ngine) S(oon).

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

there are no fault codes stored. but when I use an all metal screwdriver, put one side on the throttlebody and the other side agains my ear, I clearly hear the ticking sound. so the sound is coming from the throttlebody.

 

The next thing I can do is remove the intake assembly while the clickingsound is present. so I can see if the butterfly valve is moving with the clicking sound and go from there.

  • Like 1
Posted

I had a ticking Throttle Body. Similar to your scenario (at idle, warm engine). Replaced it and it has not come back. Used it as an excuse to get a Solar TB (ported). 

 

Never did figure out what caused it. 

 

  • Like 2
Posted

the throttle body isn't that expensive so replacing it is a good idea. do you need to reprogram the throttle body or is it just plug and play? 

Posted

Bolt off, bolt on. Takes three minutes once you know the steps. No reprograming for me, even when I upgraded to a ported one.

However, my truck is tuned (before replacement). I don't think that changes it, but just adding the fact. 

Posted

Thanks for the reply ftwhite. I'm going to replace mine too. 

 

But because I'm from Holland I can't go to a parts-store and buy a throttle body for my truck. They just don't sell them here. So the only option is to order one on-line. I usually order parts at rockauto.com but do you know any other site where to order one? perhaps a ported one😋?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,912
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RangerRick17
    Newest Member
    RangerRick17
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 1 Anonymous, 557 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...