Jump to content

Brake Pad Issues

cotect20
 Share

Recommended Posts

cotect20 Enthusiast

cotect20

Posted
Posted

I recently had my 2019 Silverado 1500 RST into my local shop for a state safety inspection (located in VT and required to have a yearly inspection), and was shocked to find out that the truck wouldn't pass inspection.  The technician said that the brake pads were severely rusted / corroded and that I would need ~$800-worth of brake repairs in order to be able to pass inspection.  They also said that in their opinion, this should not have happened and should be covered by warranty, and that they have seen the same thing on other 2019+ Silverados.

 

The truck has just under 29K miles on it.  Its the 5.3l V8, and is my daily driver.  Do not off road with it (unless riding gravel back roads is considered off roading).  Pull a 2-place snow mobile trailer with it about 5-6 times a winter.  By most standards, I would say the truck lives an easy life.

 

I've just begun the battle with Chevy over whether or not this should be covered under warrantee, its scheduled to be into the dealership next week, but wanted to reach out to see if others have seen similar issues and have had luck with getting the brakes repaired under warranty?  TIA.

 

 

driver1965 Enthusiast

driver1965

Posted
Posted

I live in SoCal so do not have this issue. I would work with the dealer you purchased the truck from. If nothing works, I would get Akebono (so?), brakes. Replace/ fix the rotors as needed. Or, purchase the heavy duty brake set ( several available), though they are pricey. Cheers…

Gangly Senior Enthusiast

Gangly

Posted
Posted

I would first check the brakes for yourself and see if the visual evaluation of your brake system by a state inspection employee is accurate or not.

  • Like 1
Phantom 4D Enthusiast

Phantom 4D

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Gangly said:

I would first check the brakes for yourself and see if the visual evaluation of your brake system by a state inspection employee is accurate or not.

Agree on that. Though I don't understand rust on brake pads. Rust on the outer edges of the rotors I understand. On the pads, no. I noticed you live in Vermont. Would the rust be from road salt? I would like to know what the dealer says. 

cotect20 Enthusiast

cotect20

Posted
  • Author
Posted
16 hours ago, Phantom 4D said:

Agree on that. Though I don't understand rust on brake pads. Rust on the outer edges of the rotors I understand. On the pads, no. I noticed you live in Vermont. Would the rust be from road salt? I would like to know what the dealer says. 

 

Yes, agree also, thanks.  Plan to remove the wheels this weekend and have a look for myself.  I don't believe that it is the brake pads themselves that are rusted, rather its something with the brake caliper/pad that is causing concern, whatever it is my mechanic indicated that its not typical.   I will try and post a pic over the weekend if I get a chance.

 

Yes the outer edges of the rotors do take a beating due to the winter conditions here in VT and show rust.  However that is not the concern and why it wouldn't pass the safety inspection.  If that was the case very few vehicles pass VT safety inspection.  For example our other car has 32K miles and has similar rust on the outside edge of the rotor but passed inspection without a problem.

 

Will report back with what the dealership has to say.  Thanks for the responses.

 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • C. Hart
      Exhaust Question

      By C. Hart · Posted

      I have seen different people in different places post different sizes of exhaust as stock for my 2014 Sierra L83. Some say 2.5 some say 2.75. I am considering replacing the muffler with a Dynomax Super Turbo, perhaps 17739.  I had the factory L83 5.3 replaced with another L83 5.3 from Jasper Engines. I also put new Walker Cat / Y pipe on. I would appreciate opinions suggestions about what would be a good muffler setup. My main interest is a low rumble and the best flow / fuel mileage I can get. Not interested in straight through glass packs or loud exhaust. Those days are way behind me now.  Thanks Guys.  
    • newdude
      Cold start Miss, oil in cylinder

      By newdude · Posted

      Its coolant disguised as oil.   TSB 20-NA-166 -  20-NA-166 1..3   "To inspect for this concern, add coolant dye to the system, run the engine through warm up, pressurize the cooling system after warming the engine to operating temperature (let the engine cool overnight) and inspect the suspect cylinder with a borescope for coolant dye evidence. At times it may be necessary to remove the head for inspection. If the head casting line is the concern, the intake port will be wet with a coolant oil mix"     I'd say its the head, and its either leaking at the casting line and dripping down the intake into the cylinder, or its another spot on the casting itself at the cylinder that is getting wet.  
    • asilverblazer
      Cold start Miss, oil in cylinder

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Can you sample the pooled liquid, enough to confirm it is oil?   ...That its not fuel or coolant.   Also, make sure combustion gases aren't entering the cooling system.   Simply put, either oil being pushed up past the rings (this really isn't possible), oil leaking past the head gasket, oil leaking past the valve, oil entering through the intake air path. If none of this is likely - it may not be oil.   What could be likely is the fuel injector leaking down. A puddle of gas would still smoke and rough idle. (Same cylinder has the same problem after injector replacement?)   What is the crank time first thing in the morning, when the puddle would be present? Does it seem like the high pressure fuel pump needs an extra second or two to rebuild the pressure that injector 8 may have let bleed off? Check the fuel pressure via a scanner prior to starting the engine.    
    • Donstar
      Navigating senior years.

      By Donstar · Posted

      Good information!  I didn't know about the dementia aspect and asked for a general for my second knee. I'd heard that recovery room time is usually shorter with a general.   The anesthesiologist talked me out of it and I had the spinal.  Inconvenience and/or discomfort is a small price to pay for reduced risk!
    • garagerog
      Navigating senior years.

      By garagerog · Posted

      This is for those over 70 years of age contemplating joint replacement surgery involving general anesthesia. Even some 55 yrs. ago when I took my pharmacology class the dangers of developing dementia in the elderly that had general anesthesia were beginning to be recognized. Over the years there has been some refinement in the cautionary warnings, avoid general anesthesia if possible if you've had close to 10 priors, especially over the age of 70 and/or a family history of dementia. I'm not including the twilight anesthesia induced by propofol often used in cytoscopies or colonscopies. Seriously think about seeing a neurologist and undergo cognitive testing before proceeding if any of those criteria apply to you. Spinal anesthesia may be an option in some cases. I'm in the above camp and although I could use a new right knee, I get fidgety according to a prior orthopedic surgeon when the bone saw spools up or maybe it was the smell of saw blade meeting bone, anyhow I may have one general anesthesia left in me which I will pocket for now and I'm choosing mind over mobility, anyway where did I leave my damn cane!

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...