6L80E trans temp

[cole kovacs]

I know this has been beaten to death but my issue seems to be a bit different than most. 2014 Silverado, 4x4, 6l80e. I noticed the trans temp is getting hotter than usual, it’ll hit 210 no problem but I have seen mid 220s. I know that’s not super hot but it’s concerning to me. I just drove it last week on a 7 hour drive and had time to play with it. I found that putting it in tow mode, at 64-66 mph and rpm at around 2100 the temp stays where it normally is at (192-196) but as soon as I go slower or faster, the trans shifts to the next gear and it’ll start to get hot. I know I can do the thermostat bypass and have much cooler temps but I’d like to catch this problem before it becomes a greater issue. Anyone have any fixes or insight for an issue like mine? I’ve dropped the pan and replaced the filter and it didn’t look horrible for 120k miles but I’m unsure when the previous owner did a fluid change last. I’m due for an engine oil change again and I’m thinking I’m going to drop the pan and take a look at the fluid and magnet for good measure. 

[14LTZ-1LZ]

 

[newdude]

She might be on its way out.  Thermostat delete or the new lower temp one might not save it.  Sounds like its been too hot for too long.  

 

 

[Alan Bowman]

1 hour ago, cole kovacs said:

I know this has been beaten to death but my issue seems to be a bit different than most. 2014 Silverado, 4x4, 6l80e. I noticed the trans temp is getting hotter than usual, it’ll hit 210 no problem but I have seen mid 220s. I know that’s not super hot but it’s concerning to me. I just drove it last week on a 7 hour drive and had time to play with it. I found that putting it in tow mode, at 64-66 mph and rpm at around 2100 the temp stays where it normally is at (192-196) but as soon as I go slower or faster, the trans shifts to the next gear and it’ll start to get hot. I know I can do the thermostat bypass and have much cooler temps but I’d like to catch this problem before it becomes a greater issue. Anyone have any fixes or insight for an issue like mine? I’ve dropped the pan and replaced the filter and it didn’t look horrible for 120k miles but I’m unsure when the previous owner did a fluid change last. I’m due for an engine oil change again and I’m thinking I’m going to drop the pan and take a look at the fluid and magnet for good measure. 

When in doubt change it out!

[CrawlSlow]

So you dropped the pan, replaced the filter and put the old fluid back in without looking at the fluid nor clean the pan/magnet?... something doesn't seem right.

 

I'm curious, which filter did you replace? Maybe more detail on where the filter is located?

[mikeyk101]

One thing I haven't seen mentioned in many of these threads is about the condenser. On at least the 2016 and newer, the hot transmission fluid passes through to be cooled down. As you drive for years and thousands of miles, crud can start to build up in there as it is open to the elements just behind the grille. It is commonly ignored and neglected. But as the build up continues, I would assume that this will reduce the cooling ability. I know this is common on many home A/C units and why it's good to hose them down at least once a year to clean out between the fins.  I know the same thing can happen with radiators and reduce their ability to cool down hot coolant. It has happened on my motorcycle's radiators so I clean those occasionally. 

 

But back to the condenser, with the old thermal valve not opening up until 190⁰, that is pretty hot so it is already in need of being cooled down and if the condenser is crudded up, it's ability has to be reduced. Over this summer, I took my hose with sprayer and sprayed it into the grill to the condenser in multiple spots which I think helped flush out a bunch of bugs and crud. I would assume that the best way would be to remove the grille to expose the whole condenser but I haven't gotten ambitious enough to do that yet...

[Alan Bowman]

2 hours ago, mikeyk101 said:

One thing I haven't seen mentioned in many of these threads is about the condenser. On at least the 2016 and newer, the hot transmission fluid passes through to be cooled down. As you drive for years and thousands of miles, crud can start to build up in there as it is open to the elements just behind the grille. It is commonly ignored and neglected. But as the build up continues, I would assume that this will reduce the cooling ability. I know this is common on many home A/C units and why it's good to hose them down at least once a year to clean out between the fins.  I know the same thing can happen with radiators and reduce their ability to cool down hot coolant. It has happened on my motorcycle's radiators so I clean those occasionally. 

 

But back to the condenser, with the old thermal valve not opening up until 190⁰, that is pretty hot so it is already in need of being cooled down and if the condenser is crudded up, it's ability has to be reduced. Over this summer, I took my hose with sprayer and sprayed it into the grill to the condenser in multiple spots which I think helped flush out a bunch of bugs and crud. I would assume that the best way would be to remove the grille to expose the whole condenser but I haven't gotten ambitious enough to do that yet...

Come on it’s only 12 clips.

[cole kovacs]

Sorry guys, little late on the reply. Crawlslow, yes I replaced the fluid and pickup filter (maybe they call it a sump filter?) Condenser is new (AC leak, so I replaced it) so it’s clean. Fluid didn’t look HORRIBLE, but again, not sure if the previous owner changed it before I got the truck or not. It was a little dark but the magnet didn’t have an excessive amount of crud on it and no big particles. Planning on dropping the pan again tomorrow. 

[cole kovacs]

As for that new bulletin, I absolutely HATE the idea of going to the dealer. If this trans ****** out I know it would be a fight to have them replace it but with that new bulletin it may be possible since of course NOW they want the transmissions to run cooler after 7 years of these ridiculous temps. I’m almost tempted to just trade this thing off. 

[Black02Silverado]

Yes, it is running warmer than what it should for the most part.  It might still be OK.  You said that the fluid didn't look to bad.  That is a good thing.  Also you changed the filter and cleaned up the pan and magnet.  I would go with the lower thermostat and see how things go.  It's not that expensive and if it still runs just as hot with that then, yes you have an issue.  You will not know until then for the most part.

[mikeyk101]

Easiest solution to avoid dealer and have the updated thermostat and not do the pill flip is buy the new thermostat and a new seal online and do it yourself. It can be done in a couple minutes and parts shipped come in under $70. It's a simple procedure and only requires a 10mm socket, a 13mm socket and a pan for underneath to catch the little amount of trans fluid that will drip out. But pay real close attention to the end of the 2 cooling hoses that go into the thermostat. Each has a small o-ring that you must make sure is still there when installing cooling lines into new thermostat. If you fail to do that, you will have a very messy undercarriage...