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Big Height Difference Front and Rear AT4

Nick__
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Nick__ Enthusiast

Nick__

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8 hours ago, shakenfake said:

Remove the rear block imo

A lot of the pictures I see where people remove the rear blocks on the AT4, the rear looks lower than the front. I definitely don't want that look. I'm thinking maybe the Rough Country 1-1.5" lowering shackles or replace the 2" rear block with a 1" rear block.
 

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AD80
AD80

They say the u bolts should be changed because the threads are stretched when they are tightened or something like that. Most folks use the same bolts without problems, but you may want to change them

Transient
Transient

Hook up a trailer.  Problem solved.

richmz
richmz

It's important to know what you're measurement reference is. Are you measuring from..   Top of tire to center of wheel well?   Ground to bumper?   Ground to frame?

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AD80 Enthusiast

AD80

Posted
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13 hours ago, Nick__ said:

Do you think it would be better to lower the rear with lowering shackles, or removing the rear block?

Romoving  the block would be the easiest and fastest of the two. Some folks say that if you remove the block, or use drop shackles , you need to put a small angled shim or you will get vibrations, and other folks have done it without the shim and have had no problems.   Since yours is 3” higher in the rear, the block is only 2” so you shouldn’t be lower in the rear,  sounds like you may still have a small rake. Or you could always change it out for a 1” block and keep a couple sandbags in the back to make it level. This way you could remove the weight and get small rake back when you get ready to tow or haul.

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Nick__ Enthusiast

Nick__

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12 hours ago, AD80 said:

Romoving  the block would be the easiest and fastest of the two. Some folks say that if you remove the block, or use drop shackles , you need to put a small angled shim or you will get vibrations, and other folks have done it without the shim and have had no problems.   Since yours is 3” higher in the rear, the block is only 2” so you shouldn’t be lower in the rear,  sounds like you may still have a small rake. Or you could always change it out for a 1” block and keep a couple sandbags in the back to make it level. This way you could remove the weight and get small rake back when you get ready to tow or haul.

May be a dumb question, but should I replace the u bolts if I do remove the rear blocks?

Nick__ Enthusiast

Nick__

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On 11/13/2021 at 7:27 AM, newdude said:

 

 

Are you measuring from the ground?

 

Most of the times rake is measured from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the wheel well.  Using this point, 1500's run right at about 2" front to rear difference, HD trucks run about 3".    

 

Also.  Leveling an AT4, you MUST get new upper control arms or you WILL have ball joint failure.  

 

 

I measured both ways yesterday. Still 3" higher in the rear.

AD80 Enthusiast

AD80

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6 hours ago, Nick__ said:

May be a dumb question, but should I replace the u bolts if I do remove the rear blocks?

They say the u bolts should be changed because the threads are stretched when they are tightened or something like that. Most folks use the same bolts without problems, but you may want to change them, because once you remove the block, the original bolts will hang down low and their may not be enough threads to grab. Watch the way the guy in this video removes the blocks from his trail boss, probably the easiest way to do it.

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=6Yp-40GBxi8

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Nick__ Enthusiast

Nick__

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18 hours ago, AD80 said:

They say the u bolts should be changed because the threads are stretched when they are tightened or something like that. Most folks use the same bolts without problems, but you may want to change them, because once you remove the block, the original bolts will hang down low and their may not be enough threads to grab. Watch the way the guy in this video removes the blocks from his trail boss, probably the easiest way to do it.

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=6Yp-40GBxi8

10-4. I've got the shorter u bolts ordered.

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Desrunner Enthusiast

Desrunner

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On 11/21/2021 at 12:28 PM, Nick__ said:

10-4. I've got the shorter u bolts ordered.

Here is a picture of what my TB looks like now in the back. I replaced the 2” block with a factory 1” from an earlier generation, which took me from a 2” rake to a 1” rake. I also replaced the original rear shocks with the RS7MT because they are about an 1” shorter. The originals would probably work because the bump stop limits the total compression. And the new shocks are black… I did use new, shorter U bolts from a Max Trac set that I bought. The factory U bolts from a non-TB or non-AT4 would probably work best.

F039E535-62BB-475B-B473-C881EEF8E948.jpeg

81mmcat Enthusiast

81mmcat

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Any difference in ride quality with the new type rancho shocks compared to the ones that came from the factory?

Desrunner Enthusiast

Desrunner

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1 hour ago, 81mmcat said:

Any difference in ride quality with the new type rancho shocks compared to the ones that came from the factory?

Maybe a very slight improvement but honestly, not really noticeable. With the bed being empty most of the time, I didn’t want to get anything stiffer like Bilstein. Supposedly the gas charge on the RS7MT is somewhat less than Bilstein, which is why they are a bit softer. Here is the difference in length.

BA0B2CE3-BA6A-42FB-9FD7-5D93C4044B81.jpeg

Nick__ Enthusiast

Nick__

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On 11/28/2021 at 8:31 AM, Desrunner said:

Here is a picture of what my TB looks like now in the back. I replaced the 2” block with a factory 1” from an earlier generation, which took me from a 2” rake to a 1” rake. I also replaced the original rear shocks with the RS7MT because they are about an 1” shorter. The originals would probably work because the bump stop limits the total compression. And the new shocks are black… I did use new, shorter U bolts from a Max Trac set that I bought. The factory U bolts from a non-TB or non-AT4 would probably work best.

F039E535-62BB-475B-B473-C881EEF8E948.jpeg

I appreciate the info. I actually bought some shorter u bolts from Rough Country. I haven't installed them yet or removed the rear blocks, but I have been thinking about getting 1" blocks instead. Only reason I'm thinking about removing them altogether is because my AT4 is closer to 3" higher in the rear. So, it would still give me a very slight rake.

Desrunner Enthusiast

Desrunner

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On 11/29/2021 at 1:11 PM, Nick__ said:

I appreciate the info. I actually bought some shorter u bolts from Rough Country. I haven't installed them yet or removed the rear blocks, but I have been thinking about getting 1" blocks instead. Only reason I'm thinking about removing them altogether is because my AT4 is closer to 3" higher in the rear. So, it would still give me a very slight rake.

No problem. There is an easy way to replace the blocks without taking the wheels off. There are some YouTube videos on it but basically you lift on the leaf spring after you loosen the U bolts. 

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Transient Senior Enthusiast

Transient

Posted
Posted

Some people pay big money to lift their rear end.  Now people are spending money for more sag.  The human race is perplexing. 

Nick__ Enthusiast

Nick__

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On 12/3/2021 at 11:19 AM, Transient said:

Some people pay big money to lift their rear end.  Now people are spending money for more sag.  The human race is perplexing. 

Just trying to get a less drastic rake, not even level. (Mine is nearly 3" higher in the rear) I don't think there will be any sag.

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