Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hi guys. New member here. I'm fresh from the introduction area. 😀  But I did have a question I couldn't find the answer to. My 2021 AT4 is a full 3 inches higher in the rear than it is in the front. That seems excessive. I only know this because I was measuring to see what kind of leveling kit to purchase. Anyone with a similar experience?

Edited by Nick__
Posted (edited)

It's important to know what you're measurement reference is.

Are you measuring from..

 

Top of tire to center of wheel well?

 

Ground to bumper?

 

Ground to frame?

 

Most pickups are higher at rear by design so that when loaded it will distribute the weight properly.

 

Here is a '21 GM AT4 file photo. The rear rake is noticeable, probably about what you're seeing.

spacer.png

 

Last year I took some photos of mine on level ground when loaded with over 20 bags of bark mulch. I was impressed with it's stance with it loaded, likely around 1,000 lbs or more. It handled fine at speed too.

 

 

AT4_053.jpg

AT4_051.jpg

AT4_052.jpg

Edited by richmz
  • Like 1
Posted
10 hours ago, Grover67 said:

My '20 AT4 is 2" difference stock height

 

 


Same here.

Posted (edited)
22 hours ago, Nick__ said:

Hi guys. New member here. I'm fresh from the introduction area. 😀  But I did have a question I couldn't find the answer to. My 2021 AT4 is a full 3 inches higher in the rear than it is in the front. That seems excessive. I only know this because I was measuring to see what kind of leveling kit to purchase. Anyone with a similar experience?

 

 

Are you measuring from the ground?

 

Most of the times rake is measured from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the wheel well.  Using this point, 1500's run right at about 2" front to rear difference, HD trucks run about 3".    

 

Also.  Leveling an AT4, you MUST get new upper control arms or you WILL have ball joint failure.  

 

 

Edited by newdude
Posted

I measured mine this morning (bone stock for AT4 specs), 3" of rake, measured at the center of the wheels, ground to lower lip of wheel well.

 

It looks level, perhaps an optical illusion with that big old honking grill...

 

But clearly is ready for a real level.  :)

Posted

You could always remove the rear block. That should get you level without changing you front end angles. Since it is already raise 2”

front and rear from the factory, if you remove the rear block, it should sit the same as a non at4 with a front level kit. So it won’t look too low if that’s what your thinking.

  • Like 1
Posted
7 hours ago, AD80 said:

You could always remove the rear block. That should get you level without changing you front end angles. Since it is already raise 2”

front and rear from the factory, if you remove the rear block, it should sit the same as a non at4 with a front level kit. So it won’t look too low if that’s what your thinking.

I just installed some of those fancy AMP Research power steps, so I am thinking higher... 😉

Posted
On 11/13/2021 at 7:27 AM, newdude said:

 Also.  Leveling an AT4, you MUST get new upper control arms or you WILL have ball joint failure.  

 

 


Also new here. Wasn’t aware of this. What brand and model number is recommended?

Posted
On 11/13/2021 at 7:27 AM, newdude said:

 

 

Are you measuring from the ground?

 

Most of the times rake is measured from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the wheel well.  Using this point, 1500's run right at about 2" front to rear difference, HD trucks run about 3".    

 

Also.  Leveling an AT4, you MUST get new upper control arms or you WILL have ball joint failure.  

 

 

Yes, I was measuring from the ground. I'll try measuring from the top of the tire. I wasn't aware that was the correct way. Thanks for the heads up!

Posted
On 11/13/2021 at 6:23 AM, richmz said:

It's important to know what you're measurement reference is.

Are you measuring from..

 

Top of tire to center of wheel well?

 

Ground to bumper?

 

Ground to frame?

 

Most pickups are higher at rear by design so that when loaded it will distribute the weight properly.

 

Here is a '21 GM AT4 file photo. The rear rake is noticeable, probably about what you're seeing.

spacer.png

 

Last year I took some photos of mine on level ground when loaded with over 20 bags of bark mulch. I was impressed with it's stance with it loaded, likely around 1,000 lbs or more. It handled fine at speed too.

 

 

AT4_053.jpg

AT4_051.jpg

AT4_052.jpg

Measuring from the ground to bottom of wheel well. Thanks for the info.

Posted
On 11/14/2021 at 1:20 AM, AD80 said:

You could always remove the rear block. That should get you level without changing you front end angles. Since it is already raise 2”

front and rear from the factory, if you remove the rear block, it should sit the same as a non at4 with a front level kit. So it won’t look too low if that’s what your thinking.

Interesting idea. I actually was wondering about this. Seems like it's a good way to get a safer level for less money on the AT4. But then it would sit a little lower than a front "lifted" AT4. Maybe not a bad thing?

Posted
On 11/14/2021 at 1:20 AM, AD80 said:

You could always remove the rear block. That should get you level without changing you front end angles. Since it is already raise 2”

front and rear from the factory, if you remove the rear block, it should sit the same as a non at4 with a front level kit. So it won’t look too low if that’s what your thinking.

Do you think it would be better to lower the rear with lowering shackles, or removing the rear block?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,853
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    JohnRoy
    Newest Member
    JohnRoy
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 646 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Which one, the AT or AS?   Starfire is made by Cooper/Goodyear but at $85/tire I'd think I'd need to level-set my expectations that they may not even be round 😉 But you're saying they're decent?   I'm already into this thing $1506 in parts, fluids, etc. Totaled all my receipts today. $250 of that was replacing an EGR and MAP sensor that were probably fine, but I'm not going to return the parts since they've been installed. I'm cheap, but not that cheap. I use it, I keep it!   I may or may not make money if I sell the truck at this point, but, that wasn't really the point. And if I billed my time, I'd be hosed for real. My thought on the tires is I "might" put 1,000 miles on before selling it. I just don't want to put absolute junk on it, that doesn't do anyone any good. If the Solus solidly isn't junk, I'll definitely consider them.        
    • I leave mine as is. I'm always a trip away from riding on unpaved roads. Dealer can clean it when they prep it after I trade it in for another new truck.
    • I have these on two vehicles and love them. Pepper is one of them 😉 
    • 4WD. Far as I know it came stock with P's and not LT's. Definitely planning to put P's on it, but stock is a 109 XL load rating so I should probably stick within that guideline.   No rebates on anything I can see at the moment. Discount Tire is offering $50 off, but Pep Boys is very competitive on price, and also carries all the off-brand stuff. Les Schwab always wants an arm/leg, but they do good work.   It still has the original spare. Goodyear Wrangler RT/S, thing looks like a tractor tire LOL!! How times have changed.    
    • 2020 Sierra 2500 HD (base model) gas engine 4wd.    All 4 windows roll down on their own. Happens somewhat randomly after stop and engine off - when engine turned off, when walking away from vehicle before or after locks activated. Pulled the window fuse F14 Instrument Panel Fuse Block Right; the driver's side still activates from driver's side door panel; passenger and back seat windows activate from local switches on their doors but not from driver's side group of switches. Power mirrors don't activate with fuse removed either (same fuse for both circuits). Problem not solved.    How can they even activate with fuse removed but they are all still opening and can control from each door?  When they open on their own, I can shut them from the switch in each door, but they don't stay closed.    Seems to be activated somehow with key fob; something bumping the key fob in my pocket or just handling - removed key fob and took it far enough away and now the windows stay closed. Replaced key fob batty just in case, no change.    Sounds like some kind of wiring short or maybe electronics. Dealer will first replace electronic control module without checking anything else and I anticipate problem will still exist since their troubleshooting skills are limited to "do whatever the computer says".  In any case, keyfob seems to be activating the circuitry.    Surely I'm not the only one with this issue, but I can't find anything related on the site. What do yall think?   JohnRoy  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...