Jump to content

Big Height Difference Front and Rear AT4

Nick__
 Share

Recommended Posts

Nick__ Enthusiast

Nick__

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi guys. New member here. I'm fresh from the introduction area. 😀  But I did have a question I couldn't find the answer to. My 2021 AT4 is a full 3 inches higher in the rear than it is in the front. That seems excessive. I only know this because I was measuring to see what kind of leveling kit to purchase. Anyone with a similar experience?

Edited by Nick__
  • Replies 36
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

AD80
AD80

They say the u bolts should be changed because the threads are stretched when they are tightened or something like that. Most folks use the same bolts without problems, but you may want to change them

Transient
Transient

Hook up a trailer.  Problem solved.

richmz
richmz

It's important to know what you're measurement reference is. Are you measuring from..   Top of tire to center of wheel well?   Ground to bumper?   Ground to frame?

Posted Images

richmz Enthusiast

richmz

Posted
Posted (edited)

It's important to know what you're measurement reference is.

Are you measuring from..

 

Top of tire to center of wheel well?

 

Ground to bumper?

 

Ground to frame?

 

Most pickups are higher at rear by design so that when loaded it will distribute the weight properly.

 

Here is a '21 GM AT4 file photo. The rear rake is noticeable, probably about what you're seeing.

spacer.png

 

Last year I took some photos of mine on level ground when loaded with over 20 bags of bark mulch. I was impressed with it's stance with it loaded, likely around 1,000 lbs or more. It handled fine at speed too.

 

 

AT4_053.jpg

AT4_051.jpg

AT4_052.jpg

Edited by richmz
  • Like 1
RCF71 Enthusiast

RCF71

Posted
Posted
10 hours ago, Grover67 said:

My '20 AT4 is 2" difference stock height

 

 


Same here.

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted (edited)
22 hours ago, Nick__ said:

Hi guys. New member here. I'm fresh from the introduction area. 😀  But I did have a question I couldn't find the answer to. My 2021 AT4 is a full 3 inches higher in the rear than it is in the front. That seems excessive. I only know this because I was measuring to see what kind of leveling kit to purchase. Anyone with a similar experience?

 

 

Are you measuring from the ground?

 

Most of the times rake is measured from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the wheel well.  Using this point, 1500's run right at about 2" front to rear difference, HD trucks run about 3".    

 

Also.  Leveling an AT4, you MUST get new upper control arms or you WILL have ball joint failure.  

 

 

Edited by newdude
Kilgore Trout Enthusiast

Kilgore Trout

Posted
Posted

I measured mine this morning (bone stock for AT4 specs), 3" of rake, measured at the center of the wheels, ground to lower lip of wheel well.

 

It looks level, perhaps an optical illusion with that big old honking grill...

 

But clearly is ready for a real level.  :)

AD80 Enthusiast

AD80

Posted
Posted

You could always remove the rear block. That should get you level without changing you front end angles. Since it is already raise 2”

front and rear from the factory, if you remove the rear block, it should sit the same as a non at4 with a front level kit. So it won’t look too low if that’s what your thinking.

  • Like 1
Kilgore Trout Enthusiast

Kilgore Trout

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, AD80 said:

You could always remove the rear block. That should get you level without changing you front end angles. Since it is already raise 2”

front and rear from the factory, if you remove the rear block, it should sit the same as a non at4 with a front level kit. So it won’t look too low if that’s what your thinking.

I just installed some of those fancy AMP Research power steps, so I am thinking higher... 😉

nolimits76 Enthusiast

nolimits76

Posted
Posted
On 11/13/2021 at 7:27 AM, newdude said:

 Also.  Leveling an AT4, you MUST get new upper control arms or you WILL have ball joint failure.  

 

 


Also new here. Wasn’t aware of this. What brand and model number is recommended?

Nick__ Enthusiast

Nick__

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 11/13/2021 at 7:27 AM, newdude said:

 

 

Are you measuring from the ground?

 

Most of the times rake is measured from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the wheel well.  Using this point, 1500's run right at about 2" front to rear difference, HD trucks run about 3".    

 

Also.  Leveling an AT4, you MUST get new upper control arms or you WILL have ball joint failure.  

 

 

Yes, I was measuring from the ground. I'll try measuring from the top of the tire. I wasn't aware that was the correct way. Thanks for the heads up!

Nick__ Enthusiast

Nick__

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 11/13/2021 at 6:23 AM, richmz said:

It's important to know what you're measurement reference is.

Are you measuring from..

 

Top of tire to center of wheel well?

 

Ground to bumper?

 

Ground to frame?

 

Most pickups are higher at rear by design so that when loaded it will distribute the weight properly.

 

Here is a '21 GM AT4 file photo. The rear rake is noticeable, probably about what you're seeing.

spacer.png

 

Last year I took some photos of mine on level ground when loaded with over 20 bags of bark mulch. I was impressed with it's stance with it loaded, likely around 1,000 lbs or more. It handled fine at speed too.

 

 

AT4_053.jpg

AT4_051.jpg

AT4_052.jpg

Measuring from the ground to bottom of wheel well. Thanks for the info.

Nick__ Enthusiast

Nick__

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 11/14/2021 at 1:20 AM, AD80 said:

You could always remove the rear block. That should get you level without changing you front end angles. Since it is already raise 2”

front and rear from the factory, if you remove the rear block, it should sit the same as a non at4 with a front level kit. So it won’t look too low if that’s what your thinking.

Interesting idea. I actually was wondering about this. Seems like it's a good way to get a safer level for less money on the AT4. But then it would sit a little lower than a front "lifted" AT4. Maybe not a bad thing?

Nick__ Enthusiast

Nick__

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 11/14/2021 at 1:20 AM, AD80 said:

You could always remove the rear block. That should get you level without changing you front end angles. Since it is already raise 2”

front and rear from the factory, if you remove the rear block, it should sit the same as a non at4 with a front level kit. So it won’t look too low if that’s what your thinking.

Do you think it would be better to lower the rear with lowering shackles, or removing the rear block?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined

  • Who's Online   6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,311 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • jgaudet99
      Tire psi

      By jgaudet99 · Posted

      Yes that's right, it's the upgrade that includes the overload spring and all that stuff.   Someday when I'm empty and going by a scale I'm going to stop in and get some weight readings.   Exactly  you should have the ability to change individual settings, in in Canada so I'm driving with kph but then I'm stuck with kpa when I want psi lol    
    • Chuck FB
      Tire psi

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      You must have that upgraded gvw package which is only available or at least was in 2025 with the diesel engine for the 3/4 ton and that gave the truck physically the larger 12.0 ring gear rear diff and the 3500 rear spring pack. There is a difference in what the diff housing looks like externally as one tell tale and also your truck should have the upper overload spring pack and the frame pads that the pack goes up against.    The pressure the tpms system kicks the alarm in on a stock setting truck, that is a good question and was just from what I recall but I doubt I made any notes on it as I knew for the rear that it was not at all what I was after regardless either. Being that you have a diesel and if running on stock tires the minimum pressure on an empty truck seems to be around 50 psi from hearing of those that have weighted the front axle but the rear axle is very similar in weight to a gas truck and again a near empty truck on the rear could go down to 35 pounds at minimum. However the weigh scale is the proper way to know for sure as a guide.    As to changing the readings on the dash from metric to the US measuring system, oh yes that is done easily but what I was attempting to explain was that I can't pick and choose items I want to have in US and those I still want in the metric system at the same time as its either all or none. For example lets say you drove into Canada and switched your dash over to metric so your speedometer read in km an hour, well then your reading kilopascals on your tpms readout and your wife looks over and says what the hell is that saying in the tpms screen and you say "darned if I know, I think its Chinese" !
    • Chuck FB
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      This is partly why I decided to have switched over to Amsoil SS as a way of hopefully preventing the buildup of the sludge/carbon on the pistons and clogging of the oil control rings and the carbon that would cause the compression rings to stick in their grooves as well as stay cleaner up top of the heads in the valve train in the first place, an oil that has tested better by third party testing over typical shelf oil and also doing my best to run relatively short OCI. However in saying that I don't think there is any way to easily prove the oil I was using prior allowed for a buildup at the OCI I was doing, nor in the other direction to make claims the Amsoil is keeping everything clean either. There really isn't a window into the engine is there to know anything for certain even if oil samples were taken for example that showed still healthy oil being dropped out of the oil pan other than engine tear downs that extensive and expensive testing of oils does to actually visually see what is really going on inside the engine. I wish there was some easy method of seeing what is going on but I don't happen to be aware of that if there is.  
    • jgaudet99
      Tire psi

      By jgaudet99 · Posted

      My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...