Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey guys, 2021 Sierra Elevation X31.  A couple times now I have moved truck after a rain and i hear water pour out at what sounds like front doors area.  Before I had a Tonneau i thought perhaps water in bed but now this happens still even though looking in box shows no moisture.  Wth is going on?  Anyone else experience this?

 

I had a thought tonight that maybe those hand holds or whatever we call near the tailgate are actually filling with water in a rain and then flowing forward when truck moves??

 

Thoughts?

Posted

Are you getting water puddles on the ground? If not, then I would guess that its air bubbles being flushed through the heater core. The increase in RPM's when you hit the gas will increase the flow rate and volume of fluid thought the heater core. Any air bubbles will be make noise like water flushing through a rain gutter. New rig, so it might have a little bit of left over air in the cooling system.

Posted

thanks for replies so far. Interesting about heater core.

 

I do swear once that water poured out of my door but it was all so fast and I wasnt expecting anything that i couldnt be sure as ground was soaked already.

 

 

Posted
1 hour ago, yzinger said:

didnt know this could be a thing...please explain more and where plugs are?

Don't know about the '21 models, but on my '11 3500HD Denali, there is a piece of "weather stripping" along the bottom of the door that just snaps into place.  There are holes in the corners that is supposed to allow any water that gets in the doors to drain out; holes are so small, though, that they get plugged up alot and trap water in the doors

  • Like 1
Posted

Check between the front of door where it meets the front fender, might be some sound deading material separating it. Check the bottom area, in the fender, to make sure there is nothing blocking the drain hole. You'll find the sound deading material probably wet too....

 

-Grover67

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Water in doors is very real.  Doors are not made to be water tight like on a submarine.  Water can get into the doors.  If the drain holes are clogged it will prevent the water from draining out. 

 

As for your theory about the hand grab holes/stake pockets in the top sides of the bed, 1) they have drain holes in the middle and are not sealed on the sides either.  The water will drain.  2) the bed isn't connected to the cab.  Water in the stake pockets cannot travel to the front doors. 

Edited by Transient
Posted

yup all good points. Thanks.

 

If there was a consistency to it i could come up with a plan to see if actual water flows out.  Maybe it is the heater core suggestion.  I will report back forsure when i found out wtf it is.

 

Thanks again all.

Posted

Mine does the exact same thing and sounds like the drivers side front door, as soon as I drive off it sounds like the water flows from the front to the rear. It only does it during the initial take off. I thought the front fender where it meets the front door may have been the issue, I checked the drain in that spot and it was clear. I will check the door drain.

Posted (edited)

Wait a minute. Couldn't you just have your mother in law sit on the hood and then sit on the rear bumper? That would cause any water to flow forwards and backwards. Might damage the shocks, but it is what it is. Aside from all the rolls of fat jiggling and the eye watering flatulence, you should be able to hear any water flowing thought the body panels. Just ask her wear Depend diapers to absorb the urine, so that the sound of the urine flowing out of her shorts doesn't mess up your testing procedure.

 

Don't like that idea? Ya, me neither. If you want to eliminate the "air in the heater core" theory, just pop your serpentine belt off for a quick test. You don't even need any tools. Just grab the belt and pull the slack out of it. Then slowly let the belt retract, while moving it to the side, so it walks itself off the pulley. Takes 24 seconds to remove the belt and disable the water pump, last time I checked. Then start and drive the truck. If the noise gone, then its not a cooling system issue - If the noise is still there, then its nothing to do with the heater core. You can run the motor for 60 seconds without the belt attached, without causing any problems or damage.

Edited by Supreme Pizza
  • Haha 1
Posted
3 hours ago, Supreme Pizza said:

Wait a minute. Couldn't you just have your mother in law sit on the hood and then sit on the rear bumper? That would cause any water to flow forwards and backwards. Might damage the shocks, but it is what it is. Aside from all the rolls of fat jiggling and the eye watering flatulence, you should be able to hear any water flowing thought the body panels. Just ask her wear Depend diapers to absorb the urine, so that the sound of the urine flowing out of her shorts doesn't mess up your testing procedure.

 

Don't like that idea? Ya, me neither. If you want to eliminate the "air in the heater core" theory, just pop your serpentine belt of for a quick test. You don't even need any tools. Just grab the belt and pull the slack out of it. Then slowly let the belt retract, while moving it to the side, so it walks itself off the pulley. Takes 24 seconds to remove the belt and disable the water pump, last time I checked. Then start and drive the truck. If the noise gone, then its not a cooling system issue - If the noise is still there, then its nothing to do with the heater core. You can run the motor for 60 seconds without the belt attached, without causing any problems or damage.

Sheet metal is too thin nowadays.  MILs sitting on the hood would yield the same result as if you clips the back legs of a cow and had its rear sit on the hood.  Those are 2 large butt cheek imprints. 

 

Don't ask me how I know. 

Posted

The problem with using the belt to check the heater core for the culprit is that the sound is not consistent - i mean it doesnt happen everytime I drive truck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Was all the way down to $3.69 a gallon but then jumped back to $3.99 just because for some reason.   Diesel floats between $4.80's to $5.10ish a gallon. I even saw Diesel #1 for $6.09 today but nobody in there right mind even buys that in the summer.
    • Mine just keeps lagging or getting stuck on the reverse camera. When I turn off the truck, get out, and close the door it will still stay on. It’s very intermittent and I would not be able to duplicate the issue. 
    • I was checking out fuel prices at my farm fuel retailer at their pumps and yes the farm price is a bit lower than the non dyed fuel and was glad to see that the regular farm gas price has dropped a lot from what it had been but what blew me away was the price of diesel as the spread now compared to before the prices went up earlier in the year, diesel was actually slightly lower than gas which was a switch from the theme the last number of years. However that sure isn't the theme lately and definitely not right now. The prices I will post are not from that retailer but just looking at gasbuddy for the main city in this area and instead of posting the lowest price someone found I will list the higher price ( and that may not be the highest price, just whatever someone posted on gasbuddy ).   So regular gas and there are a lot of stations listing the same price for regular is 1.68 a liter, premium 2.00 a liter. Diesel 2.03 a liter for a top price I saw on diesel.   Figures out to 6.36 a us gallon Canadian funds for regular and 7.68 for diesel. With the US exchange rate it would be 4.58 us for regular and 5.53 for diesel.    Thought I would figure that out to get a picture of what it settles out like compared to various US prices and its about the same as the current price in Fairbanks AK as Anchorage tends to be lower. So yes, these would be the prices and higher along the way on the Alaska highway where they know they have a captured market !, for fuel prices for those beginning the long drive back to the lower 48   The problem is our Canadian dollar and going to the states that have the high prices, boy do we pay then !
    • Just wanted to get a idea of how many of you still have problems with your radio cutting out during the first few minutes of driving, my 2024 GMC Sierra still does this after a little over 2 years of complaining to my dealer about it, and OTA updates no longer complete, the check for updates in settings is greyed out for the second time while trying to install a update, my dealer took about a week to play around with it the first time this happened, and somehow got the check for updates to work, even though it would always show system is up to date when I knew it wasn't, now again 1 month later its greyed out again when the OTA update N25-F163BU tried to install, which ironically is the update to help with reliability of future updates.
    • Just wanted to get a idea of how many of you still have problems with your radio cutting out during the first few minutes of driving, my 2024 GMC Sierra still does this after a little over 2 years of complaining to my dealer about it, and OTA updates no longer complete, the check for updates in settings is greyed out for the second time while trying to install a update, my dealer took about a week to play around with it the first time this happened, and somehow got the check for updates to work, even though it would always show system is up to date when I knew it wasn't, now again 1 month later its greyed out again when the OTA update N25-F163BU tried to install, which ironically is the update to help with reliability of future updates.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...