Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

If this has already been asked, please point in the right direction. I have a 2015 GMC Sierra, 96K miles. This is really hard to explain. When getting into the throttle on take off, the truck will bounce and jump 3 or 4 times before taking off. It is almost like running out of gas. This issue has almost got me ran over cutting across traffic.  If you get into the throttle easy this issue does not occur. Only on mid/hard acceleration.  The tack will also bounce when this occurs. Sometimes the tack will quit all together, not every time. When the tack quits then i cant replicate the issue. I have to turn truck off and back on to get tack to function again.  When this occurs it throws no codes or lights. If you have it hooked to a computer while driving it will give a crank sensor fault. I recently replaced the transmission and crank sensor. This issue happen repeatedly before trans. change.  I have also recently replaced the high pressure fuel pump.  If any one could point me in the right direction i would appreciate it.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

I personally have not had this problem but it seems that many of these trucks suffer from bad ground connection issues. Sometimes it is a ground connection installed on a painted stud and nut, sometimes it is the wire connected to the negative battery terminal. A bad ground connection can cause the issue you are having. Search this issue on the web, you will easily find videos of where they are and how to fix these known issues. Good luck!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

possibly bad plug wires, grounding to engine, try, when engine is hot, spaying water (spray bottle) around the spark plug boots, if bad wires you may see or hear the bad one(s) arcing to the engine causing misfire.

Posted

Tach gets its signal from CkPS, so it still reads like an issue with that sensor.  Did you replace it with a quality sensor like Siemens, VDO, or GM Genuine?  If not, the sensor is just new and not necessarily good.  Don't forget to clean its connection and inspect its wires for a short.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My brother has a 2007 Avalanche with afm 5.3. It`s got 176,000 miles. Runs like a clock. Never been apart. Co worker has a 2010 Tahoe with afm 5.3. 230,000 miles. Never been apart. Runs like a clock. So, even though cyl deac is a weak spot, they can go the distance.   BUT, these engines had the oil changed regularly, AND had 5w30 as spec. I wonder if they would have lasted this far on 0w20? I`ll bet not.
    • I certainly could be wrong but I hear of pickups far newer than that 2007 cutoff which may not be going to the wrecker but are having engine work done and be that a reman engine or new engine or trying to repair the existing engine. Some of it would be design issues as per the cylinder deactivation system that GM has and one of those lifters wiping out the cam and the question of oil changes moving the needle or not on that whole mess, or in the case of Ford pickup engines that have the long timing chains and wearing them out and the roller followers and phasers and some of that certainly goes back to oil change intervals. But in those various cases the truck has all sorts of life left in it and so the unfortunate owner and may be original owner or used market owner that is pouring money into repairs so the truck is not seeing the salvage yard yet but damage is happening by infrequent oil changes. A friends son had bought a 2018 I think it is half ton GM and it had some sort of extended or used dealer warranty on it and of course the lifter issue bites and its rattling and so the dealer had to swallow the bill and was at least 7000.00 and I think they only replaced what they felt they had to replace so yeah, I can see that being a ticking time bomb in the not too distant future. Would frequent oil changes cure all these engineering "marvels", probably not but some engine designs have shown that they do much better if the oil is changed a lot more often then if the manufacturer service claims are followed. New trucks cost so much that there is an incentive to keep the existing truck on the road by repairing. 
    • get a good code reader, and find out what problems the truck has noticed by reading codes. cheap ones can only get basic engine codes, you may want to get one that can get codes from all the computers in your truck.
    • This is sort of my point, salvage yards aren't overflowing with all these 'poorly' maintained trucks - excellent/good/servicable condition otherwise, salvaged only as a result of a bad engine from poor oil change regiment.    In my area, there are no 2007 to newer gm trucks/suvs in any salvage yards. A few are in the 'recyclers' with very obvious reasons for being there - wrecked.
    • Stabilitrack was a stability control, traction control system, that functioned independently from the transfer case.   Z-71 has nothing to do with the transfer case or differential.   If it does have an AWD system, my memory recalls this being specific to the Denali trim, converting won't be as simple as swapping out mechanical parts like differentials and transfer cases. It will require reprogramming at a minimum. Long story short, not likely worth it.   Pulling a fuse, may disable the AWD system, it might also prevent any other transfer case functions.   However, the AWD case was generally based on the same transfer case you refer to in the 2006 Suburban. If it still has a 4-High and 4-Low where the transfer case locks and splits power 50-50 front to rear, what are you gaining by changing anything? A true-rear wheel drive only, what good will that serve? Not enough to go through the trouble of changing out all the parts.    Generally, all the factory systems will handle a 33" tire and re-gearing. Probably a 35" tire too, if you aren't driving like a caveman. If 35" tires are in the plan...   If you do plan on driving like a caveman or are fully committed to 35" tires, an entire re-think of the build is probably in order. Starting with square one, an IFS front end isn't going to be the best starting point for 35's and caveman driving. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...