Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I always have but things are a little different on this 2019. Pins with clips holding on the front pads. I assume bolts holding on the caliper and bracket? I plan to also  replace front rotors since they pulse a little when hot. The rears look familiar  with the addition of an electical wire I have to deal with or maybe not if I just do the pads? I also read I need to disconnect battery for the whole process or risk it throwing codes and possibly going into limp mode. Do I have it about right? Any words of wisdom or encouragement? Times dictate I do it myself to save on cost. 2019 Siverado 72k. I can't complain about them lasting. I'll replace with GM parts. 

Posted

Yes, you can.

 

You will have to remove the caliper from the bracket that holds the pads, secure it so you don't break the flex hose, and then get the bracket out. Those clips you're referring to are to aid in positioning the pads within the bracket. 

 

Install is the reverse, super easy.

Posted

Shoot. Ill have to for the new pads to fit. I can pump it back up before reconnecting battery? Im doing the fronts for sure. The rears seem more difficult but my truck says they are at 58% whereas the front are at 18% so I can put that off for quite a while.   I I wish there was a video on these new trucks. I have yet to find one for this truck to change all brakes and rotors. All of them are pre 2019.  

Posted

I wouldn't suggest it, but yes you can do the front without doing the rear.  Disconnect the battery while you do the front so that the sensor doesn't get jacked up readings, and pump the brakes a few times before hooking the battery back up.  You should be fine.

Posted
On 7/14/2022 at 12:02 PM, Minnvmax said:

Shoot. Ill have to for the new pads to fit. I can pump it back up before reconnecting battery? Im doing the fronts for sure. The rears seem more difficult but my truck says they are at 58% whereas the front are at 18% so I can put that off for quite a while.   I I wish there was a video on these new trucks. I have yet to find one for this truck to change all brakes and rotors. All of them are pre 2019.  

Not sure if these trucks have a pump it up feature. The brakes are all electric now. When you push the brake pedal down there is a switch that measures the force you are pushing. It activates an actuator to give you feedback on the pedal that you are applying force (so it doesn't go to the floor). At the same time an electric motor is pushing the master cylinder if you will to activate the brakes to stop the truck. So the actual brake pedal is not connected directly to the master cylinder.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Did it last night. Front pads only. The hardest part was disconnecting the brake pad sensor. And it was a ******. I ended up breaking it but luckily the pads came with a new one. Too bad there are no videos out there because it would save a lot of people from the hassle I went through. The pads themselves were simple. I opted not to change the rotors this time. My truck, my decision. And GM went through all the trouble of allowing pad change without removing the caliper. Why would they do that if they expected rotors to be changed every time with pads?

 The menu option to reset the brake life indicator will not work. Its there but not selectable. Stealership wants $100 to reset it with scan tool. LMAO! Its back to keeping an eye on them the old fashioned way which has never let me down. 

 The new pads even have wear tabs and I CAN disable the pad monitor function. 

 To sum it up the front pads are a breeze and I dont think you can get into any code trouble doing it BUT I did put my vehicle in brake service mode during the operation however I suspect that procedure is exclusively for servicing the back brakes. Ill find out some day. 

Posted
On 7/26/2022 at 1:22 PM, Minnvmax said:

Did it last night. Front pads only. The hardest part was disconnecting the brake pad sensor. And it was a ******. I ended up breaking it but luckily the pads came with a new one. Too bad there are no videos out there because it would save a lot of people from the hassle I went through. The pads themselves were simple. I opted not to change the rotors this time. My truck, my decision. And GM went through all the trouble of allowing pad change without removing the caliper. Why would they do that if they expected rotors to be changed every time with pads?

 The menu option to reset the brake life indicator will not work. Its there but not selectable. Stealership wants $100 to reset it with scan tool. LMAO! Its back to keeping an eye on them the old fashioned way which has never let me down. 

 The new pads even have wear tabs and I CAN disable the pad monitor function. 

 To sum it up the front pads are a breeze and I dont think you can get into any code trouble doing it BUT I did put my vehicle in brake service mode during the operation however I suspect that procedure is exclusively for servicing the back brakes. Ill find out some day. 

Thats AWESOME!  Glad to see you doing it yourself with success.  The sensor should reset when you put the new sensor in but I could be mistaken.  Congrats on the DIY!

 

Posted

Just looked at this youtube, and honestly seems like the easiest thing in the world!  Did GM actually make something better?!?!  No more caliper c-clamps?  No more removing calipers?  No more spraying brake clean everywhere!!!!  WHAT!!!!  lol

 

Haven't had to change my brakes yet, sorry for the excitement!

 

 

  • Like 1
  • 5 months later...
Posted

So i bought a used 2019 Silverado 1500 and thought I would check my brakes just to see how much meat they had because I'm new to the brake wear sensor and just wanted to see for myself. After inspection I put everything back together and noticed I had my brake light come on along with "break system failure", check ESC, check trailer brakes and had my speed was reduced to 43 MPH. I limped it over to O'Reilly auto parts and had them put the code scanner on it. The O'Reilly employee told me he had seen this time and time again. Apparently there is a valve that you open on the brake line before pushing the piston back in on the caliper when trying to put brake pad back on. The employee cleared the code and I haven't had any issues since.

Posted (edited)
On 7/14/2022 at 9:30 AM, 2016 Sierra Owner said:

 

 

Edited by Albert24

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,759
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DM22
    Newest Member
    DM22
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 2,351 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • So I'm in the middle of a DOD AFM delete on my 6.2 L86 Sierra. I had a pick holding the tensioner but after I got the Cam phaser gear off I was cleaning off all the rtv and apparently I didn't have the pick seated far enough in. I bumped it and the tensioner sprang forward.  I think everything is good but I want a second opinion. The top of the tensioner is just a looped piece of plastic that rides in that channel right? There is no spring or anything is there? I got the gear and chain back on and it seems tight and everything looks right. I'm hoping nothing fell out.
    • My 2015 1500 LTZ Silverado suddenly won't go into 4 x 4 low. It will go into 4 x 4 high.
    • Yep, just a quick reference point.    My main point being I’d do a thousand other things before I’d pay 10k for a transmission.    Speaking in ignorance cause I don’t look at these trucks, what is it worth? 20k?
    • I think users are going to want to pick their monitored parameters, which parameters they want to see first.    It should probably start with baseline at a minimum and adjust to learned, but be able to overlay baseline for comparison.   A simple severity level would be able to determine what type of alerting is appropriate or user selectable.    Why not use the OBD port though?   I think a phone connection would be a good idea, push notifications type deal.   Number 1 issue is having data is useless if you don’t know what the data should be under normal conditions. 
    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...