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OPT7 Aura Pro interior lighting double relay install help.

2020RSTBorla
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2020RSTBorla Enthusiast

2020RSTBorla

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Hi all,

 

I am hoping someone can help me.  I have a 2020 Silverado RST and have recently purchased an OPT7 Aura Pro interior lighting kit.  I am having trouble with the double relay setup.

 

I found this thread:  

Smoothbassman figured out a double relay setup that allows this system to function as it should.  Unfortunately there was never a schematic provided.  I found a double relay video and schematic on YouTube for the OPT7 Aura Pro kit, but unfortunately again, after I built the circuit it didn't work with the dome lights.  I believe this is because it was designed as a dome light ground trigger and pin 23 for the dome lamp on the Silverado is not a ground trigger and does not actuate the relay on my circuit. 

 

I am not good enough with electronics to design a circuit and figure this out, even though it seems fairly simple.

 

If anyone has installed the double relay with OPT7 Aura Pro could you please share the schematic?  I would REALLY appreciate it!!!

GETGONE Enthusiast

GETGONE

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Reply in that thread. He cut the wiring off in his picture of the relays and it's all red wires going into the junction strip. Otherwise I could tell you better what he did. I THINK I know, but can't tell for sure without tracing the wires back to the relays. It looks like he's basically using two sources to trigger the relays and power the lights. This could have been done with a single relay and two diodes for the inputs. I did this on my backup cube lights I added to my trailer hitch. I have them double sourced to the reverse lights and cargo light inputs using diodes to prevent backfeeding the circuits and combined them to the input of the relay. I'm not sure how the lights are setup that he is using one relay to make them white and the other to be whatever color is chosen. I'd have to see what the light wiring has for options. That thread DID help me find where I can tap to add the flat LED squares I want to add to the overhead console since the factory lights are so damn dim! I really didn't want to try to solder onto the board to add lights.

2020RSTBorla Enthusiast

2020RSTBorla

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12 hours ago, GETGONE said:

Reply in that thread. He cut the wiring off in his picture of the relays and it's all red wires going into the junction strip. Otherwise I could tell you better what he did. I THINK I know, but can't tell for sure without tracing the wires back to the relays. It looks like he's basically using two sources to trigger the relays and power the lights. This could have been done with a single relay and two diodes for the inputs. I did this on my backup cube lights I added to my trailer hitch. I have them double sourced to the reverse lights and cargo light inputs using diodes to prevent backfeeding the circuits and combined them to the input of the relay. I'm not sure how the lights are setup that he is using one relay to make them white and the other to be whatever color is chosen. I'd have to see what the light wiring has for options. That thread DID help me find where I can tap to add the flat LED squares I want to add to the overhead console since the factory lights are so damn dim! I really didn't want to try to solder onto the board to add lights.

Thanks for the reply.  I may have figured out my issue.  I won't be able to try it until after work today.  It appears the diode in the schematic I followed is reversed for what I would need.  I am not sure it will trigger even if I change the diode, but I will try.  I am just not good enough with electronic circuits to know.

 

I am attaching 3 pics of circuits I have found.  The colorful one is the one I first found and followed with what appears to be the diode reversed.  Everything works as it should with this circuit except the door trigger.  The other 2 I found on this forum last night.  In both of these the diode is the reverse of the colorful schematic.

 

I did bench test the colorful schematic with a battery and everything worked as it should except I was using ground as the door trigger, where as pin 23 is not a ground trigger.

 

Any input you could give me on these schematics I would really appreciate!   Thanks!

OPT7 schematic 1.jpg

Edited by 2020RSTBorla
2020RSTBorla Enthusiast

2020RSTBorla

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I have been doing some research on this and it appears you can use 2 SPDT relays to create a DPDT relay as mandrewbot3k posted as being the best result.  See the pic above of the single DPDT relay.  

 

Not only will this give you best result (according to mandrewbot3k), but it will also use relays that are readily available vs having to order (in most cases) a DPDT relay.  I am using the SPDT relays from amazon that come with pigtails, so if one ever happens to go bad it can easily be swapped out.  It really shouldn't take any longer to build as there are already pigtails and you would just be connecting the 2 coils together.

 

I will be trying this tonight and I will update this thread and post a schematic if it all goes well.

 

Relays from Amazon  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KVZ2MU4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Edited by 2020RSTBorla
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2020RSTBorla Enthusiast

2020RSTBorla

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The circuit works! 

 

I just need to get a 220uF 16v+ capacitor.  I thought I had more variety of caps than I did.  Hopefully I will have one at work.  I had two 47uF 50v caps I ran in parallel, but it was not quite enough to stop the buzzing.  Close though.  Everything else worked great!

 

I'll try and draw up a halfway decent schematic tomorrow and post it.

GETGONE Enthusiast

GETGONE

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Glad you got it working. Best way I've heard to describe a diode is a traffic cop. It only lets current through in one direction and prevents it from back flowing. The stripe side is the direction it goes and can't to backwards.

2020RSTBorla Enthusiast

2020RSTBorla

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8 hours ago, GETGONE said:

Glad you got it working. Best way I've heard to describe a diode is a traffic cop. It only lets current through in one direction and prevents it from back flowing. The stripe side is the direction it goes and can't to backwards.

Thank you for the explanation!

 

My circuit ended up being a hybrid of the 2 circuits mandrewbot3k created.  I used 2 relays to create a DPDT relay.  I also ordered a DPDT relay, but using the 2 readily available relays with pigtails is more convenient.  

 

If I run into any issues with my current circuit I will try the single DPDT relay, but don't see how that would be beneficial at the moment.

 

I did find some new 50v 220uF and some 25v 150uF caps, so I am going to try the 150uF and I think that will work.  There was minimal relay buzz with 2 47uF (94uF total), so 150uF should do the trick.

 

I will post back tonight with the results.

Edited by 2020RSTBorla
2020RSTBorla Enthusiast

2020RSTBorla

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So I am so close, but not quite.  Everything works great except when you open the door the dome lights and relays flash/actuate 2 times then stay on.  This was a circuit I created.

 

My DPDT relay will be here today and that is the relay/circuit that mandrewbot3k said worked great, so I will try that today if I have time.  I have a very busy weekend.  I will post back results after I try it.

GETGONE Enthusiast

GETGONE

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I'm surprised they stay on after they flash. When I overloaded the cargo light circuit they flashed and stayed off. Where are you drawing your power from?

2020RSTBorla Enthusiast

2020RSTBorla

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On 8/6/2022 at 12:31 AM, GETGONE said:

I'm surprised they stay on after they flash. When I overloaded the cargo light circuit they flashed and stayed off. Where are you drawing your power from?

Sorry for the delayed response, I was setting up and running sound for a multi-band private party that took up most of my weekend.

 

So I ended up wiring the DPDT relay I got Friday.  It is much quieter than the 2 relay solution.  See the DPDT relay schematic above.

 

The only issue I am having still is that when the door is opened and it switches to door assist lighting the dome lights flash once or twice and then come on.  All other functions in all other situations work unless I forgot to test something.

 

So to your question, where am I drawing power from?  I am getting power from the Passenger side F-22 ACC/IGN and F-46 BATT via 10A power taps.

 

The only effected part of the relay when it comes to the PIN 23 GY dome trigger wire is the relay coil.  Everything else is isolated.  There is no draw on the coil side.  At least there shouldn't be other then what the coil needs to activate.

 

When the dome lights fade out everything works correctly.  The coil holds on until the dome lights go out and then it releases at the same time.  Also when you manually turn the dome lights on from the inside everything works perfectly.  There is no fading here. It's on or off and you can keep pushing the button and it switches back and forth perfectly and instantly from door assist to regular lighting setting.

 

I believe when I press the unlock button on the fob everything works also because I believe there is no fade in at that point.  I could be mistaken on this.  If it fades in then I probably have the same issue.

 

It's something with the fade in signal that is making things weird for the coil to be activated.  The BCM must be effected somehow as the dome lights flash on, off and then on same as the relay coil.  It's like pin 23 is on then off then on.  If there is no fade everything works perfectly.

 

If you or anyone out there is good with circuit design please let me know if you have any suggestions.   I would really like to get this last little bug worked out.

 

Thanks all!

Edited by 2020RSTBorla
jashaw Enthusiast

jashaw

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The fade in/out is the pulse width modulation. If you dont have a capacitor, or filter on, you'll hear the relay chatter during the fade in/out.

 

I put a filter in to get rid of the buzz. You did the same with the capacitors. I also have the lights on relays, but used one relay for each circuit. One for the regular color, and one for the white when the dome lights come on. 

 

This is the filter I used for my opt7 interior lights, and 3rd party door sill lights:

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KFJVC5J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2020RSTBorla Enthusiast

2020RSTBorla

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16 hours ago, jashaw said:

The fade in/out is the pulse width modulation. If you dont have a capacitor, or filter on, you'll hear the relay chatter during the fade in/out.

 

I put a filter in to get rid of the buzz. You did the same with the capacitors. I also have the lights on relays, but used one relay for each circuit. One for the regular color, and one for the white when the dome lights come on. 

 

This is the filter I used for my opt7 interior lights, and 3rd party door sill lights:

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KFJVC5J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thank you for the reply!

 

So is your fade into the relays working with that filter?  Do your dome lights flash once or twice before they stay on when you open the door?  

 

I think I'm with you on the 2 relays.  If you did what I think, I may have done the same thing.  2 SPDT relays used together to make a DPDT relay.  Both relays have the coils in parallel, so the trigger is the same, and then on the load side each set of your lights goes to an on of the 2 relays.

Edited by 2020RSTBorla
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jashaw Enthusiast

jashaw

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Yes, the dome lights still fade in/out with the filter. I used a T-tap to get power from the dome light wires to feed the filter.

 

It sounds like we did the same thing. It was simpler in my mind to use 2. They do not flash when the door opens.

 

I have my 3rd party illuminated door sills, OPT 7 lights, and the white lights of my running board lights on the same circuit.

Edited by jashaw

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