Jump to content

TPMS replacement different question

cabledude
 Share

Recommended Posts

cabledude Enthusiast

cabledude

Posted
Posted

I have been reading TPMS posts for the last hour, and still not exactly seeing answers to my situation.  Just purchased a used 2020 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT which the build sheet showed came with 20" wheels, but had 18" wheels on it.  This was a sales rep vehicle so can't really get answers why the wheels were switched.  The problem is when I bought it, the TPMS Service screen was on and no tire readings available.  I had the local tire store switch my Trail Terrain tires to the new truck, they said none of the sensors were communicating with their reader.  Took the truck in today to the dealer for an oil change, they had the same issue.  Pulled off one tire, and said there were aftermarket sensors installed and they will not work with the 2020 system?  New sensors are $75 each and with installation was going to be around $600.  I stopped back at the tire shop, they carry a aftermarket sensors on hand, and don't feel like there is any reason they shouldn't work.  Cost is $49.95 each, installed $280ish.  Once a sensor is programmed, can it not be changed to work with another vehicle?  No way I'm spending $600, is the $49.95 price pretty typical?  Is there any reason the newer trucks have to have GM parts to work with the truck TPMS system? (As the dealer says) Looking for any info and suggestions.

 

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted

Find a new dealer. 

 

New OEM sensors from Rock Auto are under $45 each. Aftermarket cheaper. SCHRADER brand is often under $20 each.  All available from Rock Auto are preprogramed and just need a relearn. 

 

Most likely cause is the installed sensors are the wrong frequency. 

 

Shouldn't be more than say $20-$25 a wheel to install. Whatever the new tire install price is would be close. $200 - $280 out the door cost is more realistic. 

swathdiver Senior Enthusiast

swathdiver

Posted
Posted

The existing sensors are probably the wrong frequency.  There are compatibility issues and I've had Chrysler sensors in my truck before that worked just fine.

 

You can buy OE sensors for even less than the tire store on Ebay.  Determine which frequency your truck uses, 315 or 433 mhz.  Decode your RPO sheet, I don't know them off hand.

 

Grumpy Bear beat me to it!  He types faster!  LOL

reeseb Enthusiast

reeseb

Posted
Posted

Buy the OEM sensors from the dealer or online and have the tire shop install them.

cabledude Enthusiast

cabledude

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I am surprised neither dealer or tire shop could get their tester to communicate, unless they were trying to look for 433MHZ and the wheels have 315. In any case, I will probably end up paying the tire shop to put in theirs if it's in the $280 range installed as they will at least be responsible if something doesn't work.

jaxcam02 Enthusiast

jaxcam02

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, cabledude said:

I am surprised neither dealer or tire shop could get their tester to communicate, unless they were trying to look for 433MHZ and the wheels have 315. In any case, I will probably end up paying the tire shop to put in theirs if it's in the $280 range installed as they will at least be responsible if something doesn't work.

Make them test the sensors before installing

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...