2022 2500 Chevy Custom gasser model - Need more Rear suspension Rebound control

[Jettech1]

I have searched through this forum for several hours looking for the answer to my question and haven't found it yet, so I'm hoping with this post someone knows the answer.  

2022 2500 gasser Custom model, factory shocks.  I love the way it rides, I'm not looking to change the ride at all empty or when towing.  I only have ONE thing I want to change about it and here it is.

When towing our camper with 1klbs of tongue weight, when I hit a big dip in the road or something like a bridge abutment, the back end will pitch up and down close to 3 times before the rear shocks get control of the weight.  It's a little unnerving when it happens and would like to get a rear shock that has more rebound control.  I've read some great things about the Bilsteins but I couldn't find where someone used them specifically to reduce the up and down pitch when towing after going over a large dip or bump. 

If someone knows the answer to my question please let me know what to buy, I would really appreciate it!!!

Edit: I've read that airbags can help with the problem I have as well.  I'm open minded here and will do whatever it takes to eliminate that unnerving pitching motion.  Thanks all!!!!

Edited December 27, 2022 by Jettech1

[asilverblazer]

That sounds like a shock absorber fix rather than airbags.

 

Previous owner on my truck had the torsion bars cranked WAY up. This made the ride when towing pretty bad. Lower them back down had the best improvement in ride quality.

 

Truck also has airbags on it, I've only got about 5 PSI in them. They seem redundant on my 3500, since its not even on the overload springs when towing.

 

I put on Bilstein 5100s and took a bunch of motion out of the rear end. 

 

Also lowered the rear tire PSI down to 60 PSI, running them at 80 had too much bounce (like an over-inflated basketball). 

[Jettech1]

11 hours ago, asilverblazer said:

That sounds like a shock absorber fix rather than airbags.

 

Previous owner on my truck had the torsion bars cranked WAY up. This made the ride when towing pretty bad. Lower them back down had the best improvement in ride quality.

 

Truck also has airbags on it, I've only got about 5 PSI in them. They seem redundant on my 3500, since its not even on the overload springs when towing.

 

I put on Bilstein 5100s and took a bunch of motion out of the rear end. 

 

Also lowered the rear tire PSI down to 60 PSI, running them at 80 had too much bounce (like an over-inflated basketball). 

That is exactly the information I was looking for, I'm very appreciative for that!!  I already found a set of the 5100's with the correct P/N on Amazon for a little over 200 bucks.  

 

I do have on more question for you from your comment about tire pressure.  I was under the assumption that it is best to tow heavy loads with the tires at 80psi to reduce sidewall movement and sway when driving on the highway.  Are you saying to reduce that pressure when towing or when empty?  Because empty I run mine 70 in the rear and 60 in the front for the best overall ride.  When towing I always max them out at 80psi to reduce sway.  

[asilverblazer]

10 hours ago, Jettech1 said:

I do have on more question for you from your comment about tire pressure.  I was under the assumption that it is best to tow heavy loads with the tires at 80psi to reduce sidewall movement and sway when driving on the highway.  Are you saying to reduce that pressure when towing or when empty?  Because empty I run mine 70 in the rear and 60 in the front for the best overall ride.  When towing I always max them out at 80psi to reduce sway.  

There is another thread about tire pressures that I would suggest (particularly the load inflation tables)... however, your assumptions are correct. 

 

If/when I am increasing the weight on any tire I increase its pressure accordingly, up to its maximum pressure/capacity. Below those amounts is some amount of compromise between comfort, fuel efficiency, tire load and tire wear. 

 

Empty, right now I am at 60 PSI all around. My heaviest trailer is 10-12000 lbs, I might see how it handles at 60 PSI. 

 

Additional PSI would help stiffen the sidewall some, it would also increase the amount of bounce the shocks have to control. The tires start to act like an over inflated basketball if there isn't enough weight on them - load tables above are the key.

[Jettech1]

10 hours ago, asilverblazer said:

There is another thread about tire pressures that I would suggest (particularly the load inflation tables)... however, your assumptions are correct. 

 

If/when I am increasing the weight on any tire I increase its pressure accordingly, up to its maximum pressure/capacity. Below those amounts is some amount of compromise between comfort, fuel efficiency, tire load and tire wear. 

 

Empty, right now I am at 60 PSI all around. My heaviest trailer is 10-12000 lbs, I might see how it handles at 60 PSI. 

 

Additional PSI would help stiffen the sidewall some, it would also increase the amount of bounce the shocks have to control. The tires start to act like an over inflated basketball if there isn't enough weight on them - load tables above are the key.

Interesting, I'll have to look at the load tables.  Empty I run mine 60 in the rears and 50 in the front, I know I said 70 and 60 earlier but rechecked them and they are at 60 and 50.  Rides great in my opinion with those pressures when empty.

Edited December 29, 2022 by Jettech1

[Another JR]

Remember that, while your trailer may be balanced so the tongue weight is only 1000 lbs., the mass that is connected to your hitch is much greater, and your shocks are trying to damp the bouncing of the truck mass plus the effective vertical inertia of the trailer at the hitch. Shocks that are stiff enough to heavily damp that that condition are going to be overly stiff when not towing. It’s a compromise.
 

One thing than can help is getting weight in the trailer as close to the trailer axles as possible to reduce the rotational inertia of the trailer. This has the added benefit of reducing the rotational inertia about the vertical axis, which will reduce the potential for sway.  There may not be much you can do to affect the weight distribution in a travel trailer, though. 

[Jettech1]

8 hours ago, Another JR said:

Remember that, while your trailer may be balanced so the tongue weight is only 1000 lbs., the mass that is connected to your hitch is much greater, and your shocks are trying to damp the bouncing of the truck mass plus the effective vertical inertia of the trailer at the hitch. Shocks that are stiff enough to heavily damp that that condition are going to be overly stiff when not towing. It’s a compromise.
 

One thing than can help is getting weight in the trailer as close to the trailer axles as possible to reduce the rotational inertia of the trailer. This has the added benefit of reducing the rotational inertia about the vertical axis, which will reduce the potential for sway.  There may not be much you can do to affect the weight distribution in a travel trailer, though. 

Very good points you make.  I'm going to try out the 5100's and see how that works.  I can lower the tire pressure in the rear if they greatly affect the ride when empty.  We will see.

[GMC4Zee]

I would go with the 4600's as they are more more suited to a stock truck. The 5100's are said to be valved a little stiffer and are used more on lifted trucks or ones with upgraded heavier tires. I did have heavier tires on my 2500 and went with the 5100's but now I have a stock 3500 and will probably go with the 4600's however I hate the yellow paint on them. Tire pressure will also help. Instead of airbags I also had sumo springs which only come into play when loaded. The stock Ranchero's are junk. They are a twin tube design which is not as responsive as a mono tube like the Bilsteins.

[Jettech1]

1 hour ago, GMC4Zee said:

I would go with the 4600's as they are more more suited to a stock truck. The 5100's are said to be valved a little stiffer and are used more on lifted trucks or ones with upgraded heavier tires. I did have heavier tires on my 2500 and went with the 5100's but now I have a stock 3500 and will probably go with the 4600's however I hate the yellow paint on them. Tire pressure will also help. Instead of airbags I also had sumo springs which only come into play when loaded. The stock Ranchero's are junk. They are a twin tube design which is not as responsive as a mono tube like the Bilsteins.

Interesting, Thank you for your input.  I really appreciate that...

  

[CamGTP]

They sell air bag cushioned 5th wheel attachments too, should help with the pogo effect.

 

Not sure if you're in a 5th wheel or not.

[Jettech1]

18 minutes ago, CamGTP said:

They sell air bag cushioned 5th wheel attachments too, should help with the pogo effect.

 

Not sure if you're in a 5th wheel or not.

No 5th wheel...just a bumper...

 

[asilverblazer]

On 12/31/2022 at 7:08 PM, GMC4Zee said:

I would go with the 4600's as they are more more suited to a stock truck. The 5100's are said to be valved a little stiffer and are used more on lifted trucks or ones with upgraded heavier tires. I did have heavier tires on my 2500 and went with the 5100's but now I have a stock 3500 and will probably go with the 4600's however I hate the yellow paint on them. Tire pressure will also help. Instead of airbags I also had sumo springs which only come into play when loaded. The stock Ranchero's are junk. They are a twin tube design which is not as responsive as a mono tube like the Bilsteins.

I had the 5100 on my half ton first, my next 1/2 ton I used the 4600 and wished I used the 5100 instead. The 4600 still allowed more motion in the rear than I prefer. I recall basically the same as what you said that the 5100 were slightly different for larger tires. I recall watching a youtube video that the author claimed information from Bilstein that the differences was negligible as far as internal valving and a normal user would notice no difference between them but continued on with the same idea that a larger tire or lift warranted the use of the 5100.   

 

On my 1 ton, I went with 5100 based on results from my 1/2 tons.

[XY74]

Late to this thread.  I was noticing an unsettled/hopping/unplanted feeling of the rear axle when towing and hitting bumps.  I just installed some Bilstein 4600's and the difference in control is very noticeable, back to firmly planted with my flatbed trailer.  Have not pulled the larger RV since the change.  42K on the OEM shocks, they didn't feel that worn out when I pulled them off. 

 

I think you are describing a different issue than me, more of a bucking you are getting.  My issue was more skitterish on bumps if that makes any sense.  Regardless, I will say the Bilstein's feel pretty good.    

[Jettech1]

3 hours ago, XY74 said:

Late to this thread.  I was noticing an unsettled/hopping/unplanted feeling of the rear axle when towing and hitting bumps.  I just installed some Bilstein 4600's and the difference in control is very noticeable, back to firmly planted with my flatbed trailer.  Have not pulled the larger RV since the change.  42K on the OEM shocks, they didn't feel that worn out when I pulled them off. 

 

I think you are describing a different issue than me, more of a bucking you are getting.  My issue was more skitterish on bumps if that makes any sense.  Regardless, I will say the Bilstein's feel pretty good.    

I'm going to install the 5100's based on past recommendations.  Its the pogo effect after going into a large dip or like a bridge abutment.  The back end of the truck will cycle up and down up to 3 times before the rear shocks get control of it.

[Jettech1]

So the Bilstein 5100's are installed.  Had my son install them yesterday, why because I have a son and he's only 25 and is in way better shape then me.....LOL!!!!  Anyhow, my initial thoughts are coming from an unloaded stand point.  He lives 90 miles from us so my comments come from 90 miles of highway driving unloaded....Well.....they definitely feel different then the factory shocks.  Quite a bit stiffer....but....I LOVE THEM.  Now hopefully they will reduce that pitching pogo effect I get when towing our camper.  I hate that feeling...it's so unsettling feeling the ass end going up and down almost uncontrollably.  I'll report back when we tow our camper on how they work.  But YES, there is a big difference in the ride.  But it's a 2500, it's not like I bought a caddy.  I want it to ride like a truck....Thank you all so much for helping me out and directing me to a magnificent shock absorber.   

Edited January 16, 2023 by Jettech1