Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
2 minutes ago, Graham1992 said:

About to roll this truck off a bridge, it's bad enough you can't have open drinks in the cup holder on the interstate/parkway. 

Angle of the driveshaft since it is lowered? Had a 04 that needed shims to get the right angle, was violent at freeway speeds until they found the right angle.

 

Just a guess.

  • Like 1
Posted
8 minutes ago, JimCost2014 said:

Angle of the driveshaft since it is lowered? Had a 04 that needed shims to get the right angle, was violent at freeway speeds until they found the right angle.

 

Just a guess.

I put money on this if I had to.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
On 2/3/2023 at 8:22 AM, Graham1992 said:

I've had these MRR T228 for 2 months now and have been at the shop 4 times to diagnose a shaky wheel/tire combo at highway speeds. I had Toyo proxes st tires and went thru a combination of 7 different wheels and 7 Toyo's before the shop ordered some Nitto's the same size. The Nitto's were put on and the truck STILL shook so we put the stock 18's on and the truck drives great, NO SHAKE. Any help? MRR is to the point they almost don't wanna help and I'm having to look into new wheels. Anybody went thru the same thing? 

_WCG3867.jpg

Off the original topic, that is a GREAT looking truck, makes me miss my 04, same stance and looks. Victory Red with 20's, matching painted hard tonneau cover.

Posted
2 minutes ago, JimCost2014 said:

Off the original topic, that is a GREAT looking truck, makes me miss my 04, same stance and looks. Victory Red with 20's, matching painted hard tonneau cover.

Thanks, I'm in love with how it looks, i want maybe an inch lower and I'm good. I want a paint matched cover but the price scared me away for a while! 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
16 minutes ago, Graham1992 said:

Thanks, I'm in love with how it looks, i want maybe an inch lower and I'm good. I want a paint matched cover but the price scared me away for a while! 

The tonneau I had came with the truck, lots of dealers used to lower or lift trucks, then you just bought it with full warranty.

 

It was PIA when I first bought it, the lowering kit on the truck just did not work as advertised, ending up having to have the back half of the transmission housing replaced (tail shaft area), it would vibrate and bottom out so bad, it cracked.

I finally ended up getting the driveline shimmed (shims under the leaf pack, rotating the axle), replacing the drop shackles with factory ones (just a static drop), and having the wheels rebalanced. After all that, I still had a rough 3-5 drop, never bottomed out, or vibrated again. Could tow and put a normal amount of weight in the bed.

 

Good luck, the problems are hard to find when you alter the factory specs (geometry) of the suspension. 

 

 

Edited by JimCost2014
Posted
1 hour ago, JimCost2014 said:

Angle of the driveshaft since it is lowered? Had a 04 that needed shims to get the right angle, was violent at freeway speeds until they found the right angle.

 

Just a guess.

Going to make sure this isn't what they've already done. I know they mentioned shims when they were trying to figure it out. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,229 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...