Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So I ordered and received the parts. I have the threaded hole in my truck bed. Does anyone know off the top of their head what size nuts and bolt I need. You'd think for that kind of money they could have included them. 

Posted

I’d just take the threaded bracket to store and find correct nuts that thread onto it.  The bolt for the third hole is probably a 10mm.  That seems to be the common go to small bolt size on misc items on these trucks.

Posted

I’m going to pull my camper off later this morning (PST) if the rain stops. I can measure the sizes for you once it’s off. It’s Seattle, though, so you might have to wait until July. 

Posted (edited)

The bolt and nuts are the same size and thread. They appear to be metric class 8.8.  
 

Outer diameter of the threads is a hair under 8mm, so they appear to be 8mm bolt and nut. Coarse thread. Length of shank and threads of bolt is 30mm. The bolt head and the nut take a 13mm socket. Both the nut and bolt have a captured washer that rotates freely but can’t be separated, and the washers are smooth with no locking feature or teeth of any kind. Pictures to follow. 

Edited by Another JR
Posted (edited)

Thanks so much for the info. I checked and the bolts on the bracket are M8-1.25. good to know they are the same size as the threaded hole as that is currently coated in truck bed liner spray and will need to be cleaned out.

 

Edited by rdonarski
Posted

I did a google search the other night and was able to find another website that had the handle/bracket a little bit cheaper.  Ordered and waiting for it to arrive.  Guess I can go ahead and find some M8-1.25 captured nuts and a bolt while I wait.

Posted

Awesome.  Glad you were able to get installed.  Still waiting for mine to show up.

  • Like 1
Posted

Mine was finally delivered.  Got it installed this evening.  I also installed a cargo light switch while back there.  Also installed a set of oem led tail lights that I picked up super cheap from a customer at work that removed his bed to install a flatbed (no pics of them installed).

7C3AEEC4-F6E9-4CB2-81C4-D42651631CBA.jpeg

  • Like 2
Posted
1 hour ago, Sonders said:

Mine was finally delivered.  Got it installed this evening.  I also installed a cargo light switch while back there.  Also installed a set of oem led tail lights that I picked up super cheap from a customer at work that removed his bed to install a flatbed (no pics of them installed).

7C3AEEC4-F6E9-4CB2-81C4-D42651631CBA.jpeg

I love it!!  Looks amazing!

 

  • Like 1
Posted

here's the handle flipped up for use.  Also a shot of the cargo lights activated from the bed switch from gen5diy.  Not a fan of the switch the kit provided; I'm looking for a different style switch.

 

 

bed handle.jpg

cargo light.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 11 months later...
Posted

This thread inspired me to hunt one of these down...

 

The parts guy at my dealer found several "matchy" part numbers, but the system showed my truck as not compatible.

 

And yes, these things are PRICEY for what they do... pushing the $300 mark just for parts.

 

You have to order the "handle", a bracket with two studs and nuts that go into the stake pocket hole for the "two bolt" side of the mounting bracket, and the 3rd bolt-and-nut for the 3rd mounting hole/bolt.

 

I found an ebay seller that sells these quite often it appears... search for "silverado tailgate assist handle", and look for a seller "modernmuscle" or Modern Muscle Salvage.

 

I bought mine from them at $124.95, tax and shipping. The price included the "two-bolt" bracket and nuts. You are on your own for the 3rd bolt.

 

I am pretty sure as long as you have the 3 holes, you are good to go.

I opted to just use three 5/16" toggle bolts with washers and lock-washers.

 

This was also compatible with my ERG Rolltrac bedcover.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,920
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Frank V
    Newest Member
    Frank V
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,240 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Folks, Have a great new 2026 WT  (std cab, 2.7/4WD) w/base 40/20/40 mech adj bench "fake buckets"  (with lower and upper center console) heavy vinyl seats.  Overall the seats are very comfortable and the vinyl is heavy and appears less likely to 'split out'. Am very tall (6'5")  + a bad back/osteporosis/former hyperparathyroidism so ease/range of movement is a bit restricted.  The truck rides a bit high and I use a nerf step bar w/my left foot to step in, then I put right foot/leg in, drag my butt in  & get seated.  Worked fine in my 2018 RAM quadCab. But I end up dragging my butt over the left raised sidecushsion area of vinyl seat, and due to texture there's fair amount of traction on slide inward.  (ArmorAll didn't improve.) If the seat were even ~1/2" - 3/4" lower it'd be helpful, but base seats just have the forward/backward underseat bail and the side lever for tilt which really doesn't affect seat height.   I really don't want to 'de-puff' the left side sidecushion forming the  fake 'bucket'. I know one company sells 'seat elevator blocks':  but is there a simple way of lowering the height of the driver seat instead?   Thanks Bill W San Jose  
    • I have a basic 2026 1500 WT  (2.7L/4WD reg cab shorttbed). Comfy, generally happy with electronics/radio - but is there a way I can add switches to steering wheel right-side position (curr. empty) so I can adjust volume, push phone button to voice dial, etc? Bill W San Jose  
    • The curb weight on a 1 ton crew cab long bed is around 7k lbs.  Now, I don't know where you went to school but 9k is not more than 2x 7k lbs. More than 2x 7k lbs would be 14k+.   With that said, obviously yes you're going to feel a 9k lb trailer when slowing down.  I already said, when accelerating.  When changing lanes?  No.  But if you look at the context of what was quoted, the original person said, "after a mile or two..." which means that would be after the accelerating portion and you're driving a generally steady pace.  Please do learn to read and comprehend.
    • So I purchased the Range unit for my 2026 and I am seeing different locations suggested for the ECM . Can anyone confirm wither under hood, left side or right side or behind the wheelwell?
    • Like I've said before. Di and Carbon buildup is not that big of a concern. Engine had minimal buildup, and that engine was obviously not super well maintained. Do regular oil changes, and you're gtg as long as the rest of the truck lasts. Also, the High Pressure FP that people ****** about, but can't tell you why.  Now, I wish they'd trash the variable oil pump. No real world issues with them, but I'll gladly eat whatever miniscule MPG it's saving me in favor of more oil at all RPMs.    Curious to see his assessment of the 7.3 compared to the 6.6. I expect he'll praise the port inj, but from a structural standpoint, the 6.6 is as robust as any engine out there.    Not to take away from the 7.3. I feel it's equally as good as the 6.6.     As to heat on the rear cyls, I'd have to see numerous examples before I'd say it's an issue. Especially not knowing the history of that engine. For all is known, they could have blown a rad hose, and ran it hot, and the 2 rear cyls may be the first to get hot in a low coolant situation, but not be an issue aside from that. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...