Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So I ordered and received the parts. I have the threaded hole in my truck bed. Does anyone know off the top of their head what size nuts and bolt I need. You'd think for that kind of money they could have included them. 

Posted

I’d just take the threaded bracket to store and find correct nuts that thread onto it.  The bolt for the third hole is probably a 10mm.  That seems to be the common go to small bolt size on misc items on these trucks.

Posted

I’m going to pull my camper off later this morning (PST) if the rain stops. I can measure the sizes for you once it’s off. It’s Seattle, though, so you might have to wait until July. 

Posted (edited)

The bolt and nuts are the same size and thread. They appear to be metric class 8.8.  
 

Outer diameter of the threads is a hair under 8mm, so they appear to be 8mm bolt and nut. Coarse thread. Length of shank and threads of bolt is 30mm. The bolt head and the nut take a 13mm socket. Both the nut and bolt have a captured washer that rotates freely but can’t be separated, and the washers are smooth with no locking feature or teeth of any kind. Pictures to follow. 

Edited by Another JR
Posted (edited)

Thanks so much for the info. I checked and the bolts on the bracket are M8-1.25. good to know they are the same size as the threaded hole as that is currently coated in truck bed liner spray and will need to be cleaned out.

 

Edited by rdonarski
Posted

I did a google search the other night and was able to find another website that had the handle/bracket a little bit cheaper.  Ordered and waiting for it to arrive.  Guess I can go ahead and find some M8-1.25 captured nuts and a bolt while I wait.

Posted

Awesome.  Glad you were able to get installed.  Still waiting for mine to show up.

  • Like 1
Posted

Mine was finally delivered.  Got it installed this evening.  I also installed a cargo light switch while back there.  Also installed a set of oem led tail lights that I picked up super cheap from a customer at work that removed his bed to install a flatbed (no pics of them installed).

7C3AEEC4-F6E9-4CB2-81C4-D42651631CBA.jpeg

  • Like 2
Posted
1 hour ago, Sonders said:

Mine was finally delivered.  Got it installed this evening.  I also installed a cargo light switch while back there.  Also installed a set of oem led tail lights that I picked up super cheap from a customer at work that removed his bed to install a flatbed (no pics of them installed).

7C3AEEC4-F6E9-4CB2-81C4-D42651631CBA.jpeg

I love it!!  Looks amazing!

 

  • Like 1
Posted

here's the handle flipped up for use.  Also a shot of the cargo lights activated from the bed switch from gen5diy.  Not a fan of the switch the kit provided; I'm looking for a different style switch.

 

 

bed handle.jpg

cargo light.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 11 months later...
Posted

This thread inspired me to hunt one of these down...

 

The parts guy at my dealer found several "matchy" part numbers, but the system showed my truck as not compatible.

 

And yes, these things are PRICEY for what they do... pushing the $300 mark just for parts.

 

You have to order the "handle", a bracket with two studs and nuts that go into the stake pocket hole for the "two bolt" side of the mounting bracket, and the 3rd bolt-and-nut for the 3rd mounting hole/bolt.

 

I found an ebay seller that sells these quite often it appears... search for "silverado tailgate assist handle", and look for a seller "modernmuscle" or Modern Muscle Salvage.

 

I bought mine from them at $124.95, tax and shipping. The price included the "two-bolt" bracket and nuts. You are on your own for the 3rd bolt.

 

I am pretty sure as long as you have the 3 holes, you are good to go.

I opted to just use three 5/16" toggle bolts with washers and lock-washers.

 

This was also compatible with my ERG Rolltrac bedcover.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • .30” of rain all month and it’s been weeks since that. “Mowed” our two properties today for the first time since July 2nd. It only took 30 minutes because all I had to do was level some weeds and saplings in a few problem areas. Everything else is dead.
    • Dealer reported a failed shifter module assembly so the whole shifter is getting replaced. Yet another premature repair… up to $12,000+ in extended warranty payout in only 5 years and 80,000 miles! 
    • According to the dealer it’s an internal leak/failure of the compressor.  Again, another failure that shouldn’t happen at only 5 years and 80k miles.  For some reason the compressors must be hard to come by right now, because the truck’s been at the dealer almost a week and they just located a compressor at another dealer several states away today.  We’ll see if this fixes the issue.  
    • I'm not sure if this should be a reply on this thread or a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - ACDelco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles. When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so i did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance.
    • I wasn’t commenting on your post. Certainly wasn’t arguing. I was making an observation on my long term experience with supposedly proper length of driving for proper heat cycles. Works for me. Although I have seen water or vapor come out of exhaust when vehicles weren’t run very long and shut off. It’s very humid in the morning. Then hot and humid. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...