Jump to content

16 Silverado key and key fob - anyone got economical solution

~~AAJakeleg

By ~~AAJakeleg
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

~~AAJakeleg Enthusiast

~~AAJakeleg

Posted
Posted

I think my 4yo son threw away my keys.  He has been beaten appropriately!

 

In any case, the current quote I got from the dealer for a new key plus a new fob (with programming) is about $290.  $100 for the key and its programming?  $190 to program a key fob (which I bought off Amazon).

 

SURELY there's a better way... I'll share my VIN with China if I can get a better deal.

 

Anyone have any suggestions?

BO TIE 1 Enthusiast

BO TIE 1

Posted
Posted

There should be some videos on you tube on how to program the remote. As far as the key you may want to try a lock Smith not sure if they'll be any cheaper. Good luck. 

rav3 Senior Enthusiast

rav3

Posted
Posted

You can buy the keys off ebay. If you have 1 spare key, you can send a photo & they'll cut it for you. Not sure about the FOB

~~AAJakeleg Enthusiast

~~AAJakeleg

Posted
  • Author
Posted

IF YOU HAVE A WORKING KEY

1. Put working key in ignition and turn to on

2. Turn to off and remove

3. Put in new, unprogrammed key and turn it on really quickly afterwards and "let truck accept it"

~~AAJakeleg Enthusiast

~~AAJakeleg

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, rav3 said:

You can buy the keys off ebay. If you have 1 spare key, you can send a photo & they'll cut it for you. Not sure about the FOB

Do you have a link?  I couldn't find anyone that will do that.

~~AAJakeleg Enthusiast

~~AAJakeleg

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, BO TIE 1 said:

There should be some videos on you tube on how to program the remote. As far as the key you may want to try a lock Smith not sure if they'll be any cheaper. Good luck. 

I have not been able to find any applicable videos or instructions on the fob.  I just can't believe it's dealer-only.

 

Any help?

rav3 Senior Enthusiast

rav3

Posted
Posted
56 minutes ago, ~~AAJakeleg said:

Do you have a link?  I couldn't find anyone that will do that.

Sorry about that. I went back & checked my purchase on Ebay & they have since stopped selling the key & key cutting service. 

~~AAJakeleg Enthusiast

~~AAJakeleg

Posted
  • Author
Posted
14 minutes ago, asilverblazer said:

Dealer only for my FOB replacement. 

 

...and it took them 3 hours. The truck's blah blah blah module needed to be updated in order to program a new FOB.

How much did you pay?

richard wysong Senior Enthusiast

richard wysong

Posted
Posted

Here in Mass there are a handful of  mobile automotive locksmiths that have the ability to program and make keys for most makes of vehicles. The dealers and auctions/repos keep them plenty busy. Not sure on prices but it probably wouldn't take them 3 hours to program anything 

Tucker Enthusiast

Tucker

Posted
Posted (edited)

Call around to local locksmith's in your area. My local dealer wants $165 for a FOB and $105 to program it. Goggled auto locksmith's in my area. First one I called quoted $60 to program and $65 for the FOB and guaranteed it to work or no charge. I didn't ask about a key didn't need one.

Edited by Tucker
~~AAJakeleg Enthusiast

~~AAJakeleg

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thank you to all

 

CONCLUSION FOR 2016 SILVERADO

Key - Can be self-programmed using your own truck.  30 min if you don't have an existing working key.  Very fast if you do.

Fob - Requires programming machine at either dealer or locksmith that happens to own one

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...