Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello everyone, I have a question about a problem with my 2005 Silverado 2500 hd 6.0l. For some background, I managed to get the truck back from a mechanic I had working on it but I had to have it towed back to the house. He was doing stuff that I didn't authorize him to do and I'm not sure what all was done. He said it wouldn't crank because there is a problem with the flywheel - which is something he wasn't supposed to be messing with anyway. The truck was running when I brought it to him to change out the wiring harness on the engine.

Anyway, I replaced a couple of things myself, the last one being the starter because it was bad. Now the starter works; it engages the flywheel and the flywheel turns but nothing is happening with the engine. It's not trying to crank at all. He may have replaced the flywheel because it looks good to me - all the teeth are good, nothing cracked or broken that I can see. But it's way to easy to turn. I can do it by hand with no problem.

I'm not a mechanic but I know that's not right. It's not engaging something to turn the crankshaft. The engine is not frozen; I can turn it from the front center pulley and everything moves fine. So what could be the problem?

I need to know what I should see when I remove the flywheel and torque converter. I've been looking but I haven't found the diagrams or videos I need to see for that. Can anyone point me in the right direction for those?

Posted

The flex plate would have to be completely broken for it to not turn the crankshaft along with it. That means the flexplate broke where it's bolted to the crankshaft itself. There is no way to get at those bolts with the transmission in place, so it's super unlikely that the mechanic removed them. The only thing keeping the flexplate in line would be the torque converter bolts holding it in place.

 

191325d1249606866-5-3-vortec-flexplate-d

 

 

Posted (edited)

Broken crankshaft is probably what it is, Pretty rare but I have seen 3 in my lifetime but never on a Chevy, could be as Cam says as well, much more likely

Edited by richard wysong
Posted

I suppose a crankshaft in two pieces is a possibility, but I'd pull the transmission and inspect the flywheel for being cracked where it bolts to the crankshaft.  They are notorious for it.  

Posted (edited)

I agree. The reason I thought crankshaft is that usually a cracked flywheel will make a lot of noise before it actually breaks, If you remove the inspection cover you will see the flywheel move back and forth with the torque converter if the flywheel is broken and if you remove the tc bolts that will confirm it before pulling the trans. I have had success  un bolting the bellhousing,trans mount and letting the engine and trans "hinge" enough to get in with a close tolerance Snap-On ratchet and un bolt and remove the flywheel. It saves a few hours of R&Ring the trans. There is no reason to remove the torque converter unless you are going to change it

Edited by richard wysong
Posted

What a mess! I think you should contact a lawyer... You'll need written proof of what that guy with a lot of wrenches (I won't glorify him with the title of "Mechanic") was authorized to do. I'd threaten to sue for the cost of repairs and for the loss of use of your vehicle (rental fee you would have paid for a like vehicle or damages.....if he doesn't come up with some amount of money I'd really consider taking him to court. Especially if this is his living and he has a business lic. to protect.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Well one of our most reliable vehicles was sold yesterday. The first and only I gave for free to a grandkid. If they got skin in the game they take care of it. My wife bought new. Five years later my daughter got it to use. We got it back and gave it to our grandson after graduation. He did zero maintenance just oil changes. When the AC quit he drove his mother’s car rather than get it fixed. Instead he just bought a beater and sold the Elantra. 
    • I usually do as well or better than the sticker for mileage. Usually better going west than east. North then South. Wind makes a difference. I’m not usually a conspiracy theorist. But it did dawn on me I’m going by the vehicle calculation. Now that would be interesting.
    • https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/news/fuel-economy-stickers-don-t-tell-the-whole-story-aaa-data-reveals-why/ar-AA26ocHk?ocid=winp2fptaskbarhover&cvid=6a4122ea3dae47e5b8dfbed5d4fd3d55&cvpid=648f6b4fc2fa4eddb4c12893aeb957ed&ei=59
    • What’s missing in all this is patience and investment in the future. Buy a 170K starter home. Ten years later sell it invest in a more expensive home. Eventually you’ll have a 600K home and pay starter home payments. Buy a starter car. Maintain it well. Save the payments after it’s payed for then buy an expensive car if you desire. Buy a tumbler make your own coffee, pack your lunch. Cook your own dinner. Most importantly take care of your car.
    • People mislead themselves. Statistics are highly useful indicators.   Here's the tie-in to this thread. If an oil sample tests shows a wear indicator of 7 using cheaper ACDelco oil, and a wear indicator of 2 (lower = less wear) using a particular brand of Mobil oil, and wear has a linear relationship with engine lifespan, anyone could assume that Mobil is reducing wear by more than 50% (let's just say a 200% reduction for you red state people trying hard to do math) which leads to increasing engine life by 2x. Perhaps, in a vacuum, by itself, when dreamed by AI.   Yeah?! That's what the statistic is saying, isn't it?   No, it isn't. It didn't come out and say engine life is doubled. That's a very bad assumption, and a case of severe myopia by assuming something potentially untrue about the only data point in focus.   Average cost of a new car is 50k. You bet it is.   The median cost of a new car is more like 35k. Expensive cars are skewing the perception that "average" now means a $50k price of entry for a very average automobile. And that's not true. People who don't understand statistics twist the living heck out of them to mean all sorts of things they don't actually mean.   "Average" new car payment is $1000/month. Yep, it is. And in that number are all the $35k new car buyers who bring significant equity, and the $25k new car buyers who finance the car for a month just to get a rebate, and then pay it off. Know what isn't in that number? All the payments made by people who don't finance a car.   Picking one's own data point (don't have a car payment, never paid $50k for a new vehicle, my house cost $170k, I afforded a middle class lifestyle on $4.50/hr) is just a data point. Just like earning $25/hr in an area where the median home price is almost $1 Million is a data point. In fact, it's a lot of data points given that 80% of the US population lives in/around major cities. They're not idiots; the vast majority of them do it to make a living because that's where the big money is.   The highs have become higher, lows have become lower, and how your personal mileage varies is not truth for an entire country. At the same time you can't NOT acknowledge the data. While it doesn't paint YOUR personal picture, it certainly tints the reality that you also live in, as does your single data point.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...