Jump to content

Multipro Tailgate Use With Forklift?

Haoleguy
 Share

Recommended Posts

Haoleguy Enthusiast

Haoleguy

Posted
Posted

At some point this year I plan to purchase a GMC Sierra HD for farm use. Frequently I have to load bulky items into the truck bed with a forklift. My gut feeling is that I should stay with the standard tailgate vs the multipro tailgate. Anyone using a multipro tailgate with a forklift? Any thoughts?.....Thank you, Gary

Pryme Senior Enthusiast

Pryme

Posted
Posted
39 minutes ago, Haoleguy said:

At some point this year I plan to purchase a GMC Sierra HD for farm use. Frequently I have to load bulky items into the truck bed with a forklift. My gut feeling is that I should stay with the standard tailgate vs the multipro tailgate. Anyone using a multipro tailgate with a forklift? Any thoughts?.....Thank you, Gary

With long forks I don’t see the need to put any load on the tailgate. Could set the pallet mainly in the bed and push forward with the tips by just lifting the back of the pallet to slide forward. Probably wouldn’t matter. 

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted

When loading heavy objects, especially say a drive on object (lawn mower, snowmobile, ATV) GM says to lower the middle gate and put ramps on the main portion of the gate, or to remove the gate all together.

 

So I would say when loading in something like a pallet of whatever with a forklift, lower the center gate so that if any weight touches, it hits the main gate.  

Another JR Senior Enthusiast

Another JR

Posted
Posted (edited)

On past trucks when I  have picked up loads on pallets, I have taken the tailgate off. Unless the load is actually on a pallet and the loader has long forks, the driver always wants to set the load down partially in and slide the forks out to relift the load and place it all the way in. That can damage the tailgate. 
 

If the OP has to leave the tailgate on, a standard tailgate likely will tolerate the abuse better, and is at least a little cheaper to replace. 

Edited by Another JR
Haoleguy Enthusiast

Haoleguy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thank you for the replies. My gut feeling is that the solid standard tailgate will serve the transport of materials better with in and out loading with tractor forks or forklift. The only interest I have with the multipro tailgate is that as I get older, and the trucks get taller, any assistance is welcome to get up into the bed.

Another JR Senior Enthusiast

Another JR

Posted
Posted
2 minutes ago, Haoleguy said:

Thank you for the replies. …The only interest I have with the multipro tailgate is that as I get older, and the trucks get taller, any assistance is welcome to get up into the bed.

The multipro is nice for entry because the bed floor is so high. When you get the point where you are really struggling to climb up, it would be a big help. I’m 59, and I find I don’t bother to use it much - yet at least. For me, I find the steps built into the bumper corners and into the forward sides of the bed to be more useful because they are always available.  

XY74 Enthusiast

XY74

Posted
Posted

When I think of the words farm and forklift, I don't think I would want a $2000+ tailgate.  

  • Like 1
Dr1ft3r Enthusiast

Dr1ft3r

Posted
Posted
On 4/3/2023 at 8:28 AM, Haoleguy said:

At some point this year I plan to purchase a GMC Sierra HD for farm use. Frequently I have to load bulky items into the truck bed with a forklift. My gut feeling is that I should stay with the standard tailgate vs the multipro tailgate. Anyone using a multipro tailgate with a forklift? Any thoughts?.....Thank you, Gary


If loading a pallet into your truck then it's likely not going to be an issue if the weight on the pallet is evenly distributed or the total weight on the pallet is in excess of 3,000#. That is, if the pallet is placed entirely inside your truck and only the last board on the bottom of the pallet is on the edge of your tailgate.

Also, pallets are generally 48" wide and the small portion of the tailgate is barely wider than that. So, unless the pallet is perfectly centered then most likely one corner of the pallet will be on the main portion of the tailgate.

Also, nobody knows exactly how much weight the small tailgate supports. The owners manual says 300#, but only when using the step on the tailgate while it is open. It does not specify what weight the gate will support when closed.

However, unless you are using aftermarket supports to support your tailgate I would not put a lot of weight on any portion of any tailgate, multi-pro or not. I have seen stock tailgate cables fail while someone was loading something as light as a 700# ATV, which means some of that 700# weight was also on the ground at the time. I personally use some steel brackets that latch between my tailgate latch and on the rod that the tailgate latch locks onto when the tailgate is closed to support my tailgate when I was loading my ATV into my truck. I also lowered the small tailgate and (barely) drove between the main tailgate as my ATV is 48"-49" wide at the tires. I actually rub the main tailgate a little. But now I have a Diamondback cover over my bed and I load directly onto that and don't have to worry about my tailgate when loading my ATV anymore.

Haoleguy Enthusiast

Haoleguy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks Dr1ft3r. The forks, with loader arms, on my John Deere tractor reach pretty far into the bed so that won't be an issue. Currently the forklifts I use would put ~20% of the load weight onto the tailgate going in and possibly 40% when pulling out.  Typically my loads are 1500-2000lbs evenly distributed on a palate or IBC tank. I'm pretty much convinced the standard tailgate is best for my application.

gemarsh Senior Enthusiast

gemarsh

Posted
Posted

I just drop the midgate when loading unloading pallets of seed corn, 55gal drums of oil or chem totes. Never has been an issue. Never gave it a thought, but to think with a portion of the tailgate gone, I can get closer to put all weight on the bed. Most forklifts fit in. My skidsteer doesn't even come close. Never used forks/loader bucket on a tractor, so I have no idea how close the grill of tractor is.

 

I love to drop the midgate to reach in the back of the bed for items. Be it fence posts or loading a calf.

Dr1ft3r Enthusiast

Dr1ft3r

Posted
Posted
18 hours ago, Haoleguy said:

Thanks Dr1ft3r. The forks, with loader arms, on my John Deere tractor reach pretty far into the bed so that won't be an issue. Currently the forklifts I use would put ~20% of the load weight onto the tailgate going in and possibly 40% when pulling out.  Typically my loads are 1500-2000lbs evenly distributed on a palate or IBC tank. I'm pretty much convinced the standard tailgate is best for my application.


There are certainly pros and cons to either choice. If I were in your situation I would probably choose the normal tailgate as well. The multi-pro tailgate has certainly come in handy for me, but there have been times I would have preferred the regular tailgate.

If I were ever really worried about the load on the inner tailgate I would put something over it, like a piece of plate steel or maybe even a 2x6.

  • 7 months later...
JoselynPorter New Member

JoselynPorter

Posted
Posted (edited)

Loading bulky items into the truck bed with a forklift sounds like a serious farm workout!   As for the multipro tailgate dilemma, I'm no expert, but sticking with the standard might be the safe bet for forklift compatibility. Anyone out there using a multipro with a forklift? Let's hear those thoughts, folks!   And Gary, just in case you haven't already, you might see here for some insights or experiences shared by fellow truck enthusiasts.

Edited by JoselynPorter

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined

  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 445 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • nfisherman
      Software Update

      By nfisherman · Posted

      Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...