Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I recently purchased a 2020 GMC Sierra 2500HD Denali with 45000 miles on it. When I purchased it I noticed the paint on the hood looked a little dull but it was also a little dirty after a rain, so I didn't think much of it. I figured once I got it home I could buff it out and get it back to new. Besides this and a few other little issues the truck is in overall decent shape. Well when I got it home I figured I should check the paint thickness before doing any buffing and to my surprise the paint was only 1.4mil thick. The rest of the truck is around 3.8 to 4.2mil thick. This scares me to buff any further down and to me feels like it really needs to be resprayed. The carfax on this truck is clean and I figured if its been resprayed already the paint would have only been thicker. Not this thin.

 

Is anyone else have any issues with their trucks hoods having super thin paint and failing clearcoat or did some previous owner just wetsand this hood to oblivion?

PXL_20230622_212124468.jpg

PXL_20230622_212638118.jpg

PXL_20230622_212702299.jpg

Posted

Yup looks like someone sanded thru it. Probably trying to fix pet scratches. You might be able to cheat and just clear it. At this point if the dealer won't take care of it I would try just clearing it. Otherwise it will be a blend job and painting the whole front

Posted

Perhaps an idea that might help you...have you thought about just polishing it up and having it wrapped?

 

Posted

The only thing that is kind of surprising to me is the fact that the entire hood is pretty even paint thickness. Imo if someone sanded through it I find it kind of hard to believe they kept it as even as they did while sanding. But if this is not a common problem I'll mention it to my dealer and probably end up just eating my losses and respraying it and blending into the fenders. I just wanted to check and make sure this wasn't a common problem before bringing it to the dealer.

  • Like 1
Posted
34 minutes ago, Brian Ouimette said:

The only thing that is kind of surprising to me is the fact that the entire hood is pretty even paint thickness. Imo if someone sanded through it I find it kind of hard to believe they kept it as even as they did while sanding. But if this is not a common problem I'll mention it to my dealer and probably end up just eating my losses and respraying it and blending into the fenders. I just wanted to check and make sure this wasn't a common problem before bringing it to the dealer.

Off topic a bit, but your last name I've heard before...I'm a Mainer, grew up there, went to Boston for my training....are you from the northeast?  Just curious is all...

Posted

I am actually from Connecticut originally. My parents came from Canada . But I moved to North Carolina for college and couldn't bring myself to move back to the north haha

Posted
3 minutes ago, Brian Ouimette said:

I am actually from Connecticut originally. My parents came from Canada . But I moved to North Carolina for college and couldn't bring myself to move back to the north haha

Mine too from New Brunswick... yeah I moved to Atlanta 36 years ago, never moving back but love to visit up there...

 

Posted

Anyhow get your hood wrapped....it will cost a penny or two but it's worth it..

 

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Brian Ouimette said:

The only thing that is kind of surprising to me is the fact that the entire hood is pretty even paint thickness. Imo if someone sanded through it I find it kind of hard to believe they kept it as even as they did while sanding. But if this is not a common problem I'll mention it to my dealer and probably end up just eating my losses and respraying it and blending into the fenders. I just wanted to check and make sure this wasn't a common problem before bringing it to the dealer.

 

After blowing up the photos yes you are correct. If you look at the fender and hood they do not have the same texture. If someone buffed or wet sanded it should be smoother than than the fenders. Yes a pro would be able to wet sand a panel evenly but like mentioned would be smooth as glass.. I wonder if the hood was replaced and this is single stage paint(which is a very good color match). 

Edited by BB68
  • Like 1
Posted

I had a GM truck I bought new years ago that after about 5 years I realized the outer right side of the truck bed had no clearcoat on it. The dealer said they’d seen it before and he attributed it to clogged nozzles in their automated paint facility and poor QC inspection.  It was past warranty when i figured it out and they wouldn’t cover it. I eventually had it repainted because it got too ugly. 

Posted (edited)
On 6/23/2023 at 4:14 PM, Brian Ouimette said:

I recently purchased a 2020 GMC Sierra 2500HD Denali with 45000 miles on it. When I purchased it I noticed the paint on the hood looked a little dull but it was also a little dirty after a rain, so I didn't think much of it. I figured once I got it home I could buff it out and get it back to new. Besides this and a few other little issues the truck is in overall decent shape. Well when I got it home I figured I should check the paint thickness before doing any buffing and to my surprise the paint was only 1.4mil thick. The rest of the truck is around 3.8 to 4.2mil thick. This scares me to buff any further down and to me feels like it really needs to be resprayed. The carfax on this truck is clean and I figured if its been resprayed already the paint would have only been thicker. Not this thin.

 

Is anyone else have any issues with their trucks hoods having super thin paint and failing clearcoat or did some previous owner just wetsand this hood to oblivion?

 

In 2020 there were some recalls on the early versions for a hood latch/catch issue that required hood replacement.  You may want to have your dealer research if your truck was one of them.  If so, you could probably get it covered under warranty.

Edited by CRApex
Posted

The paint on my truck is consistently thin.  Damned thing scratches very easily.  I have no way to measure the thickness.  No fading on mine though.  Mine is shadow gray, love the color, but hate how easily it scratches.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,759
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DM22
    Newest Member
    DM22
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 2,867 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • So I'm in the middle of a DOD AFM delete on my 6.2 L86 Sierra. I had a pick holding the tensioner but after I got the Cam phaser gear off I was cleaning off all the rtv and apparently I didn't have the pick seated far enough in. I bumped it and the tensioner sprang forward.  I think everything is good but I want a second opinion. The top of the tensioner is just a looped piece of plastic that rides in that channel right? There is no spring or anything is there? I got the gear and chain back on and it seems tight and everything looks right. I'm hoping nothing fell out.
    • My 2015 1500 LTZ Silverado suddenly won't go into 4 x 4 low. It will go into 4 x 4 high.
    • Yep, just a quick reference point.    My main point being I’d do a thousand other things before I’d pay 10k for a transmission.    Speaking in ignorance cause I don’t look at these trucks, what is it worth? 20k?
    • I think users are going to want to pick their monitored parameters, which parameters they want to see first.    It should probably start with baseline at a minimum and adjust to learned, but be able to overlay baseline for comparison.   A simple severity level would be able to determine what type of alerting is appropriate or user selectable.    Why not use the OBD port though?   I think a phone connection would be a good idea, push notifications type deal.   Number 1 issue is having data is useless if you don’t know what the data should be under normal conditions. 
    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...