Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I have a 2020 GMC Sierra AT4 that I got in 2019. Not long ago my instrument cluster dinged and alerted me that I was low on oil. I thought it was odd because I was still 2,000 miles early for an oil change. I called the dealership and scheduled an appointment, but unfortunately all they did was an oil change, they didn't investigate the problem to see what was causing it. I thought that was kind of weird because just doing an oil change wasn't going to fix it, just like if someone comes in with a flat tire, do they just pump it back up with air and call it good or do they try and find the problem, like, is there a nail stuck in the tire, pull the nail, and patch the hole. I hoped it was a 1-off, but unfortunately last week it did it again - low oil 2,000 miles before it's due for an oil change. This time I checked the dipstick and it was bone dry. There's no puddles under the truck anywhere I park, so it's not a leak in that sense. They filled it up to do an oil consumption test and I have to bring it in every 1,000 miles so they can see if it's burning too much oil. I'm still under warranty. It's a 5 year/60,000 mile warranty and I'm at 4 years and 53,000 miles. Strange thing is they billed me for the oil change even though it's part of their warranty diagnostic test. Has anyone else had this issue where their AT4 is burning through oil too much like this?

Edited by 2020AT4
additional info
Posted
10 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Which motor is this? 

6.2L V8

 

I suppose that would've been an important detail to include in my original post hahaha 🤦‍♂️

Posted
1 hour ago, 2020AT4 said:

6.2L V8

 

I suppose that would've been an important detail to include in my original post hahaha 🤦‍♂️

 

Okay, so before it hit 50K it wasn't using any oil between oil changes of how long? 

Posted (edited)

Or it was using oil, but not enough to turn on the low oil sensor?

 

Have driving habits changed?

 

How often does the dipstick get pulled to check the oil? 

 

Are you using a 7500 mile oci -- and sensor is going off at about 5500 miles? 

 

 

 

Edit: to correct spelling

 

Edited by redwngr
  • Like 1
Posted
23 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

Okay, so before it hit 50K it wasn't using any oil between oil changes of how long? 

Oil change every 5,000 miles. I'm sure it was using oil, but not enough to trip the low oil sensor.

Posted
17 hours ago, redwngr said:

Or it was using oil, but not enough to turn on the low oil sensor?

 

Have driving habits changed?

 

How often does the dipstick get pulled to check the oil? 

 

Are you using a 7500 mile oci -- and sensor is going off at about 5500 miles? 

 

 

 

Edit: to correct spelling

 

Driving habits haven't changed. I was getting oil changed every 5,000 but since this started happening it's been every 3,000 the last couple times.

Posted
6 hours ago, 2020AT4 said:

Oil change every 5,000 miles. I'm sure it was using oil, but not enough to trip the low oil sensor.

 

6 hours ago, 2020AT4 said:

Driving habits haven't changed. I was getting oil changed every 5,000 but since this started happening it's been every 3,000 the last couple times.

 

Four paths out of the crankcase. Leaks. PCV system. Valve guides. Rings. 

 

It would be strange to have the valve guides or seals compromised at this milage. Leaks would be most obvious. PCV valve is possible. Change it and give it an OCI to see if that helps. Most likely is low tension rings whose drain back is obstructed, or oil rings collapsed from varnish (fuel dilution) or carbon OR second ring (oil scraper) whose dam has carboned. 

 

Might wish to consider a UOA and we would be looking for fuel dilution in excess of say 2.5% and wear metals of aluminum and iron not conforming to the engine class and type. Short- and long-term fuel trims that do not come close to zeroing each other out. 

 

Given the milage and the warranty limits the consumption test will come up 'normal'. They call a quart in a thousand 'normal". Stinks, I know. Been there, have the Tee shirt and burned it already. You will get no help from GM. On the rare chance they do help it will be new pistons and rings in an un-honed bore and a story about it taking a few thousand miles to bed them in. Whatever. It will get you past the warranty, even the extend one, if offered. Will not solve the problem. 

 

You can rebuild the beast. You can get a crate motor. Both, on your dime.

 

If the UOA or trims show fuel dilution some diagnostics may find an injector or High-Pressure Fuel Pump seal leak. (HPFP). Fixing those issues may correct it providing the rings haven't varnished and collapsed. Something wear metals will show. A stuck ring will show elevated aluminum and iron. If just carboned the wear metals will be normal even if fuel is high. 

 

Okay if stuck rings then there is a GM top soak to free them. It works but is short lived. 

 

High Performance Lubricants has an ester-based engine cleaner that over time will free rings. Time is like 25 to 30K miles. Use mixed 5:1 with a good HDEO on short OCI's. Might even get worse for a few changes. Expect that. 

 

Root cause is shelf oils, even DEXOS licensed oils do not prevent deposits, ring deposits. They slow the rate of buildup but do not prevent it or clean them once there. Second cause is 0W20 oils in motors like this. Good for GM. Good for CAFE and EPA. Bad for owner operator and engine. 5W30 minimum. 5W40 better. 

 

IF you get them freed up without a rebuild the use something like HPL Premium or Red Line HP that contains and ester in enough quantity to be useful as a solvent. And VIS up a grade or two. 

 

If you are not successful freeing them up rebuild or crate motor, then start with these oils on 5K OCI's or whatever self oil pleases you on 3K or shorter OCI's and VIS UP.

 

You have questions PM me. But I won't debate it or justify this post. Do as you please.  

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Here is a silly question.  Are you sure the dealership put in the correct amount of oil when doing the oil change?  Some assume 6quarts when 8 is needed. 

  • Like 2
Posted

Well................

No excuse for a low oil alert coming on. 

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)
On 10/19/2023 at 8:35 AM, SporkLover said:

Here is a silly question.  Are you sure the dealership put in the correct amount of oil when doing the oil change?  Some assume 6quarts when 8 is needed. 

 I didn't go in the shop and watch over their shoulder to see if they were doing their job correctly. If they didn't, then they would've had to have made the same mistake twice since the low oil alert has come on twice now, each time 2,000 miles before it was due for an oil change.

Edited by 2020AT4
Spelling Error
Posted
On 10/13/2023 at 11:25 PM, Grumpy Bear said:

 

 

Four paths out of the crankcase. Leaks. PCV system. Valve guides. Rings. 

 

It would be strange to have the valve guides or seals compromised at this milage. Leaks would be most obvious. PCV valve is possible. Change it and give it an OCI to see if that helps. Most likely is low tension rings whose drain back is obstructed, or oil rings collapsed from varnish (fuel dilution) or carbon OR second ring (oil scraper) whose dam has carboned. 

 

Might wish to consider a UOA and we would be looking for fuel dilution in excess of say 2.5% and wear metals of aluminum and iron not conforming to the engine class and type. Short- and long-term fuel trims that do not come close to zeroing each other out. 

 

Given the milage and the warranty limits the consumption test will come up 'normal'. They call a quart in a thousand 'normal". Stinks, I know. Been there, have the Tee shirt and burned it already. You will get no help from GM. On the rare chance they do help it will be new pistons and rings in an un-honed bore and a story about it taking a few thousand miles to bed them in. Whatever. It will get you past the warranty, even the extend one, if offered. Will not solve the problem. 

 

You can rebuild the beast. You can get a crate motor. Both, on your dime.

 

If the UOA or trims show fuel dilution some diagnostics may find an injector or High-Pressure Fuel Pump seal leak. (HPFP). Fixing those issues may correct it providing the rings haven't varnished and collapsed. Something wear metals will show. A stuck ring will show elevated aluminum and iron. If just carboned the wear metals will be normal even if fuel is high. 

 

Okay if stuck rings then there is a GM top soak to free them. It works but is short lived. 

 

High Performance Lubricants has an ester-based engine cleaner that over time will free rings. Time is like 25 to 30K miles. Use mixed 5:1 with a good HDEO on short OCI's. Might even get worse for a few changes. Expect that. 

 

Root cause is shelf oils, even DEXOS licensed oils do not prevent deposits, ring deposits. They slow the rate of buildup but do not prevent it or clean them once there. Second cause is 0W20 oils in motors like this. Good for GM. Good for CAFE and EPA. Bad for owner operator and engine. 5W30 minimum. 5W40 better. 

 

IF you get them freed up without a rebuild the use something like HPL Premium or Red Line HP that contains and ester in enough quantity to be useful as a solvent. And VIS up a grade or two. 

 

If you are not successful freeing them up rebuild or crate motor, then start with these oils on 5K OCI's or whatever self oil pleases you on 3K or shorter OCI's and VIS UP.

 

You have questions PM me. But I won't debate it or justify this post. Do as you please.  

 

 

 

 

 

That's a lot of good information, but unfortunately it sounds like it's all going to boil down to that they are going to screw me out of the warranty. Correct?

  • Like 1
Posted

Yeah sorry I wasn't suggesting that.  Some people are still in the old habit of checking oil pretty frequently like with every fill up.  Just thought that one thing could be eliminated if you did. 

Posted

A lot of people should be glad I'm not the CEO of any car manufacturer because if I was and the low oil light came on I would void your drive train warranty. You've proven you don't care to me.

There is no excuse for not checking the oil. 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted
6 hours ago, diyer2 said:

A lot of people should be glad I'm not the CEO of any car manufacturer because if I was and the low oil light came on I would void your drive train warranty. You've proven you don't care to me.

There is no excuse for not checking the oil. 

I don’t believe that. I’m old enough to have needed to check oil every gas fill. I’ve had at least 20 trucks and many more cars. Most were high performance or modified that way. Since at least the nineties I’ve only had two vehicles used oil. They would have made it to oil changes without damage. I got used to not needing to check the oil. Modern vehicles have sensors for everything. A qt low check oil light should be a no brainer. I have vehicles currently two are approaching 150K one 200k. They don’t burn a drop. I can picture people at gas stations dressed to go to work trying to reach the dipstick, especially the ladies. They have a sensor for the brakes, the oil pan is more important. No today I don’t believe you should have to check your oil. 

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 360 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...