Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hey guys, 

 

Have any of you tried out this lightbar from Amazon? I purchased the triple led 60" bar with the 7 to 4 easy connect harness that connects into the trailer adaptor but nothing is working...My only thought is that i havent tapped in the reverse wire yet, but the break and turn signals should still work correct?

Fyi, this is on my 2024 Sierra HD. Any suggestions are appreciated otherwise I may have just gotten a dud. 

 

 

Edited by Nick McDermott
Posted
3 hours ago, Nick McDermott said:

Hey guys, 

 

Have any of you tried out this lightbar from Amazon? I purchased the triple led 60" bar with the 7 to 4 easy connect harness that connects into the trailer adaptor but nothing is working...My only thought is that i havent tapped in the reverse wire yet, but the break and turn signals should still work correct?

Fyi, this is on my 2024 Sierra HD. Any suggestions are appreciated otherwise I may have just gotten a dud. 

 

 

test the light strip on your work bench, see if it works. check your trailer plug for power.

Posted
24 minutes ago, slj2008 said:

test the light strip on your work bench, see if it works. check your trailer plug for power.

 

So I just heard back from Opt7 customer support and they said they 7 to 4 pin harness doesnt work with 2020+ vehicles and that I need to hardwire the led strip....Wish they would have made that very clear as I wouldnt have purchased....

Posted (edited)

Nick, I ran into the SAME exact problem this morning when I tried wiring it up. The light bar works GREAT on my wife's rental SUV 4 pin connection. However I do not have ANY power to my 7 pin or 4 pin, even with a Curt 55384 inline. So I'm going to ask the greater community WHY the 4 pin in-bed and 7 Pin in Bumper connectors show no power!?

 

I'm very likely returning my power bar if it turns out I'll have to hardwire into the lights...these trucks are surprisingly sensitive to electronics and I'm unwilling cause other issues by splicing into factory wiring. My wifes 2023 Suburban went through about 3 sets of LED bulbs (even ones that said they were CANBUS compatible) and NONE of them worked without triggering a message and causing some VERY strange things to happen to her Entertainment center. 

Edited by davidm767
Posted

Nick, 

 

If you refer to the troubleshooting forum I brought up the problem. There might be a work around that I'm going to test tomorrow (Curt 57004 7 to 4/5 pin WITH built in Resistor). If this works I'll happily report back. 

Posted
On 10/20/2023 at 6:15 PM, davidm767 said:

@Nick McDermott

 

I can now confirm that the Curt 57004 works GREAT with my OPT7 bar in my 2024 2500HD LTZ. The light bar looks great!


David, I ended up getting the Curt 55384 connector. I heard the only difference is I need to tap into something for constant power? Not sure what they means or what to do. I tried just hooking up the adaptor and it worked for 2 seconds then my truck said “trailer disconnected check connection” - I’m beyond frustrated 

Posted
On 10/20/2023 at 6:15 PM, davidm767 said:

@Nick McDermott

 

I can now confirm that the Curt 57004 works GREAT with my OPT7 bar in my 2024 2500HD LTZ. The light bar looks great!

Also where did you tap your reverse into? 

Posted

How are we the only ones that have dealt with this? Seems like it should be this complicated and I’m now three harnesses in and still no results. 

Posted
4 hours ago, Nick McDermott said:

Also where did you tap your reverse into? 

I tapped into the Curt 57004's 5th female port (the unused port) with the reverse wire. I used a Bullet style butt connector to make it a semi-permanent fit. I emailed OPT7's customer support team with the suggestion and they said they would pass along the information to their engineering team. I also left a review on their amazon page so others can be made aware that the 57004 is the solution to GM truck issues. I however doubt we are the only ones running into this problem!

Posted
9 hours ago, davidm767 said:

I tapped into the Curt 57004's 5th female port (the unused port) with the reverse wire. I used a Bullet style butt connector to make it a semi-permanent fit. I emailed OPT7's customer support team with the suggestion and they said they would pass along the information to their engineering team. I also left a review on their amazon page so others can be made aware that the 57004 is the solution to GM truck issues. I however doubt we are the only ones running into this problem!


but you have the 57004 exposed on the outside and you have to unplug when trailering? 

Posted

I have the Max tow package and a Diamondback Switchback hard cover which protects the connector (inside the bed) from the elements. I have zero issues with disconnecting the bar when towing, because it’s quick and easy. The bar is not much helpful anyway when there’s a trailer in the way. 

Posted
20 minutes ago, davidm767 said:

I have the Max tow package and a Diamondback Switchback hard cover which protects the connector (inside the bed) from the elements. I have zero issues with disconnecting the bar when towing, because it’s quick and easy. The bar is not much helpful anyway when there’s a trailer in the way. 

 Ok then we're looking to do two different things. I am looking to have the lightbar connected behind the back bumper and still be able to use the port for trailer connector. I just need to figure out why my truck (2024 GMC Sierra HD) is saying "trailer disconnected" when I use the Curt harness 

Posted

Reference this reply to a post I made in the troubleshooting forum. It’s probably the Trailer lighting control module that’s causing issues: 

 

Posted
10 minutes ago, davidm767 said:

Reference this reply to a post I made in the troubleshooting forum. It’s probably the Trailer lighting control module that’s causing issues: 

 

 

Thank you but I just dont want a plug or wiring from the led bar exposed on the outside whatsoever. Is there no adaptor harness that that "sees resistance" on the market? Hard to believe 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...