Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Does not matter. They dont fit my 2022 gmc. 
 

They smash the wheel speed sensor wires and brackets. 2024s must have different brackets, or zr2 might have special ones. 
 

bottom pic has the 10 mm bolt removed from the black metal bracket, otherwise i couldnt even wedge the shock into place. 

IMG_2591.jpeg

IMG_2593.jpeg

Edited by Joe97281
Posted

I did not try the control arms, and I am not going to until the I can get the knuckles and complete everything at once, or I can get enough of the brake line parts to make it necessary to use the additional mounting locations on the upper sontrol arms.   ZR2 does indeed have different wiring and brake lines than my 2022. I was able to find a pic on the internet showing the setup of the passenger side. 

 

On the ZR2 (possibly all MY2024 and above) the pass side front brake line follows the frame rail and goes over the shock mount, then down to the caliper. They cleared out the area for the larger shocks. It looks like brake lines head back toward the rear of the truck, and sensor wires head toward the front. 

 

My brake line stays forward of the shock mount. All sensor wires and brake lines clobber the space needed for the shock body. 

 

This means I need 2 new hardlines, 2 new hardline to caliper hoses, and new wheel speed sensors. I am assuming the wheel speed sensors have the appropriate bracket attached for mounting to the holes in the zr2 upper control arms. 

 

I have already ordered: 86512135, 86512134, 86546952, 86546950

 

parts.gmparts identifies those as the L/R speed sensors and brake lines for chassis package ZRX. 

 

Now I need to know if all 2024 front hardlines are the same, or if ZR2 has special ones, and if they are a direct fit for MY2022. I cannot find ZRX specific hardlines on the gm website (yet). 

 

It would also be nice to know the part numbers for the bolts and nuts that attach the brackets for the previous items to the upper control arms. 

 

This has gotten to the point where it is no longer fun. 

20231119_131049.jpg

Posted

I know the DSSVs are a big selling point for the conversion but at the same price remote Kings might make this easier without opening the brake system. I'm going to assume my Bilstein 5100s are going to have no trouble, but now you've got me worried lol.

 

Good luck.

Posted

I was considering doing this in the future with my 2024 AT4, so thanks @Joe97281 for being the guinea pig and reporting on these issues. Sorry it's not working out nicely for you. I like the idea of all OEM components, but I might just do everything except the DSSV and get Bilsteins or splurge on Fox/King.

Posted

@BuckWallace, duck down and look at the brake line routing on your 2024. If the connection is behind the upper control arms (toward the rear of the vehicle) than you should have less problems. 

It might be possible to add dssv to the front and leave the brake lines alone, but the clearance for the lines and associated bracket is tight. 
 

will post pics of the brake lines and speed sensors when they come in. 

 

Posted

Need some clarification on the skids for the part number thread. This is what I have so far:

 

ZR2 Skid Plates (need confirmation whether AT4X is the same):

Front Bumper/Facia Area: 84913645

Underbody (need more placement details on where this is on truck): 85637479

Transfer Case: 85569359 (may need additional holes drilled in aft crossmember. Need more details)

 

However that Bumper/Facia skid comes up as plastic and fitment is just (except BISON) so I dunno if it's actually part of the ZR2 package. The "underbody" skid details as aluminum.

Posted

85637479 Should be an aluminum one piece that replaces the stock plastic splash shield and engine skid. (Zr2 and at4x). I ordered one on 12/15 but am still waiting on shipping confirmation. 
 

Alot of the other stuff is bison specific and you need the $5k front bumper to tie it all together. 


drop brackets arrives. The distance between corresponding mounting surfaces is ~95mm. I have nothing to compare it to, but maybe someone else does. IMG_2594.thumb.jpeg.32ced1d910ee0518760c7c0a7f40800c.jpeg

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Down there looking at my stock stuff today I noticed the sway bar end links connect to the LCA. I wonder if the ZR2 has anything different in that regard 

Posted (edited)
On 12/28/2023 at 4:49 PM, Joe97281 said:

Does not matter. They dont fit my 2022 gmc. 
 

They smash the wheel speed sensor wires and brackets. 2024s must have different brackets, or zr2 might have special ones. 
 

bottom pic has the 10 mm bolt removed from the black metal bracket, otherwise i couldnt even wedge the shock into place. 

 

 

 

20 hours ago, Joe97281 said:

I did not try the control arms, and I am not going to until the I can get the knuckles and complete everything at once, or I can get enough of the brake line parts to make it necessary to use the additional mounting locations on the upper sontrol arms.   ZR2 does indeed have different wiring and brake lines than my 2022. I was able to find a pic on the internet showing the setup of the passenger side. 

 

On the ZR2 (possibly all MY2024 and above) the pass side front brake line follows the frame rail and goes over the shock mount, then down to the caliper. They cleared out the area for the larger shocks. It looks like brake lines head back toward the rear of the truck, and sensor wires head toward the front. 

 

My brake line stays forward of the shock mount. All sensor wires and brake lines clobber the space needed for the shock body. 

 

This means I need 2 new hardlines, 2 new hardline to caliper hoses, and new wheel speed sensors. I am assuming the wheel speed sensors have the appropriate bracket attached for mounting to the holes in the zr2 upper control arms. 

 

I have already ordered: 86512135, 86512134, 86546952, 86546950

 

parts.gmparts identifies those as the L/R speed sensors and brake lines for chassis package ZRX. 

 

Now I need to know if all 2024 front hardlines are the same, or if ZR2 has special ones, and if they are a direct fit for MY2022. I cannot find ZRX specific hardlines on the gm website (yet). 

 

It would also be nice to know the part numbers for the bolts and nuts that attach the brackets for the previous items to the upper control arms. 

 

This has gotten to the point where it is no longer fun. 

 

 

 

 

Did some digging on this.  All the hard lines for the  brakes are the same that I can tell.  GM doesn't sell completed lines except for one or two, its all listed as "bulk tubing" otherwise.  One section they do sell is the LF hard pipe, but its the same with or without ZR2 that I can see, 2020-2024.    I suppose there is a change in how they bend the RF?  

 

Soft hoses for the front are different.  86512134 and 86512135.

 

No change for rear hoses.  

 

The front wheel speed sensors ARE different for ZR2 as well.  86546952 and 86546950.  So probably different bracket or something like that on them to go with the upper arms and knuckle, etc.  

Edited by newdude
  • Thanks 1
Posted

And they delivered half a pint of beer! 

Have you looked to see where your brake line connections are? 
 

My pass side intermediate line has a part number on it that doesnt exist on google, and all parts websites claim I should have the brake lines that connect behind the control arm. ( i dont) 

 

Maybe my truck is a Frankenstein due to COVID shortages.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...