Oil consumption

[05 1500HD]

I’ve got a 2014 Silverado 5.3 that I checked the oil at lunch and I don’t think it’s a lot on the dipstick. I don’t drive my truck long distances, it’s just mainly around town going back and forth to work, taking the kids to school and we drive it occasionally on the weekends. My last oil change was March of 2023. I’m creeping up on my 5,000 mile oil change. Oil life is at 7% I think, 5% at the least. I’m planning on taking it in for an oil change but was debating on just putting some oil in it so it’s not really low like it looks like. 
 

Do these trucks burn that much oil?  I’ve also been driving it in M5 to keep from going in V4. Does an AFM disabler really save the life of the lifters?  I was telling my dad about the disabler and he was like I wouldn’t put anything on it like that bc it might mess something from the factory up. Can someone give me some insight on oil consumption and the AFM disabler?  Should I be getting more frequent oil changes even though I’m not hitting the 5,000 next interval?

[rav3]

You didn't mention how many miles you have on your truck. Can I assume you use the 0W20 synthetic oil?

What mark was your oil showing on the dip stick?

Personally, I'd have tge oil changed instead of putting more in. You'll be draining it shortly anyway. 

I would change your oil about every 4-5 miles. Don't go to the preprogrammed oil change indicator. 

As for the AFM delete, I personally run a Range  AFM delete device to disable AFM. I believe this will keep the AFM lifters from collapsing, but that my opinion. Do your own research on AFM & what messes up the lifter. Some informative videos on YouTube.

 

[05 1500HD]

I’ve got 87,877 miles on my truck as of today. I forgot to include that.  Im going to check again after work and maybe let the oil settle some but it didn’t look like it was even at the minimum dot on the dipstick.  
 

I’ve thought about the Range and then I saw one on Amazon for around $90. Not sure if there is a difference in the two. The disabler wouldnt make the lifters go out would it?  It’s supposed to help keep them from failing but I know it could still happen 

[rav3]

Be sure to check oil level at normal operating temperature. If it's low, just change it instead of adding. 

It's my opinion that tge lifter fails due to the peening action of the side locks catching the locking ledge as it engages, over time. Disabling it stops that from happening.  That's why I installed the Range device. It's either that or doing a full AFM delete kit which is expensive. You be your own judge on it. The Range is $200+. The others are knock offs which might work fine. I don't know anything about them. 

As for your oil consumption, I will usually add about a qt between oil changes & mine is a '17 5.3L @ 53k miles. That's acceptable for me. Not sure what others experience with their trucks.

[05 1500HD]

I parked, cut the truck off and then checked the oil. I guess I should’ve waited a little while to get an accurate reading to let the oil settle back down in the pan.   I didn’t think about that until after driving back to work I thought, the oil probably needs to settle back down first. 

[rav3]

Yep....a minute or two

[mikeyk101]

I am another +1 on having the Range AFM Disabler. I've been using it for several years now. Any issue that has happened with my truck has been completely separate from using the Range. Front wheel bearing, bad injector, leaking transmission cooling line, etc... So far nothing negative related to the Range. Although if you have to do emissions testing, you can't just pull it out of OBDII port and pass the test. I found that out the hard way. You need to pull it off and drive some miles at varied speeds (maybe 100 or so) along with several start stop cycles before testing. Also before doing this, make sure fuel tank is around 3/4 full. Wouldn't hurt to do it several days before. This doesn't mean that the Range is harming the computer, it just changes a few things while plugged in to prevent V4. Once unplugged, those operations just need to cycle normally a few times to get a passing emissions test.

[rav3]

this video pretty much explains what happens when the lifter is damaged & hoe AFM works. This is why I use the Range AFM delete. If the system is "turned off" you do NOT have a condition the "jam" the lifter.

 

 

[rav3]

1 hour ago, mikeyk101 said:

I am another +1 on having the Range AFM Disabler. I've been using it for several years now. Any issue that has happened with my truck has been completely separate from using the Range. Front wheel bearing, bad injector, leaking transmission cooling line, etc... So far nothing negative related to the Range. Although if you have to do emissions testing, you can't just pull it out of OBDII port and pass the test. I found that out the hard way. You need to pull it off and drive some miles at varied speeds (maybe 100 or so) along with several start stop cycles before testing. Also before doing this, make sure fuel tank is around 3/4 full. Wouldn't hurt to do it several days before. This doesn't mean that the Range is harming the computer, it just changes a few things while plugged in to prevent V4. Once unplugged, those operations just need to cycle normally a few times to get a passing emissions test.

Yep, I found out about the emission inspection 2x now. Didn't know it the 1st time & forgot about it the 2nd time. Had to remove it & drive for several days (in L5) to keep the AFM from engaging. No big deal if I can remember to do this each year.

[05 1500HD]

I’ve got to get my truck inspected before March. I was thinking about waiting until then to get a Range or maybe a knock off one. Just think Range has been doing it longer. 

[mikeyk101]

36 minutes ago, 05 1500HD said:

I’ve got to get my truck inspected before March. I was thinking about waiting until then to get a Range or maybe a knock off one. Just think Range has been doing it longer. 

IMHO, I would stick with the Range. The ones for our trucks were specific to the 2014-2018 IIRC and when folks sell their truck to go newer, some will offer them for sale in the forum classifieds here for less than new. I would suggest keeping your eyes on the classifieds for one to pop up.

[mikeyk101]

Oops, looks like it can still be used in newer models. But I still say you will find them in the For Sale section used for better price than new.

[richard wysong]

Where your truck is probably not getting run long enough to bring the oil up to temp and evaporate any moisture and burn the fuel contaminates off through the PCV system I would change the oil at least twice a year regardless of mileage. If you notice excessive oil consumption the PCV system is more than likely clogged up and parts will need to be replaced

[CamGTP]

To be that low at 5,000 miles isn't abnormal to me. It wouldn't be low if you did 3000-3500 mile oil changes.

 

Or just get in the habit of checking the oil after a few thousand miles.

[Grumpy Bear]

Normal would be a quart in 8,500 to 14,000 miles. Many motors will do less than a quart in 20K. My 4.3 has just shy of 180K on the clock. I change oil at 5K mile intervals. Uses less than a third of a quart. Until it reached about 125K it never moved on the stick in 5K.  I've never turned off the AFM and don't run in M5. Lucky? I don't think so. 

 

GM seems to have a problem. Or perhaps GM owners have a problem. I don't know. What I can tell you is that there seems to be a point around 60 to 80 K where those that do will start. Coincidence? I don't think so. Results of a habit in operation and maintenance. It is so common it has become considered 'normal'. Those that don't. Different operation and maintenance. 

 

If you're only putting on 7.5K a year, then most of your trips are short. You obviously drive in the winter. Two things that are hard on oil. Very hard on oil. Even great oil. Give figure 2 page 1 some consideration. Fuel in oil. Never getting temperature. Long OCI for the service. No polar oils. 

 

https://www.mobil.com/industrial/~/media/files/global/us/industrial/gas-engine-hub/technical-topic-borescopic-inspection-v2.pdf?la=en