Jump to content

SLT or LTZ versus Denali or High Country

TJL72
 Share

Recommended Posts

TJL72 Enthusiast

TJL72

Posted
Posted

Looking to trade my 22 Refresh Denali and see that SLT/LTZ loaded come in at $86K and Denali $93K High Country $90K (no ARC is likely price difference).

 

I see why elevations and the like are $3K-$4k less than SLT/LTZ but what does the Denali/HC give me for the next $4k-$6K????

 

The 22 Denali with 80,000km is co9ming back at $54K trade which seems low but I did get GM preferred when I bought it.

 

 

Is the preferred pricing form GM the best discount I am going to get in Ontario Canada? I see big discounts in the US threads????

 

 

 

ExYukon Enthusiast

ExYukon

Posted
Posted

When I ordered my '23, I wanted Max Trailering, which wasn't available on the Denali, plus HUD, which wasn't available on the SLT or lower, and I didn't want the spray-in bed liner, which was standard on the High Country.  So I went with an LTZ and am happy with that. 

  • Like 1
TJL72 Enthusiast

TJL72

Posted
  • Author
Posted
9 hours ago, d15nonvtec824 said:

If you already have refresh model, then why trade in?  are you after a certain motor?

 

At 80,000km and 2 yrs old (even though 3 model yrs now) and yes looking to get into a 3.0 like I ordered but could not get during COVIS (waited 9 months for the dealer build I took to come in). Price will start to drop more now as 25s come out and mileage creeps out so seems to be the best time to flip.

Port Tack Farm Enthusiast

Port Tack Farm

Posted
Posted

I originally wanted a Denali to replace our 2017 Canyon Denali.  When shopping for the new truck my "must haves" were 3.0 liter diesel, Max Tow and Standard Bed - everything else was negotiable.  I wanted a few features available on the Denali like HUD and retractable side steps, but I couldn't get a Denali with Max Tow which led me to the SLT.  I was stuck on GMC mostly because I wanted to purchase again from Laura near St. Louis.  I also just liked the look of the GMCs better than the Chevys.  For those reasons I really didn't look at an LTZ or High Country, even though I could have gotten the retractable side steps with the LTZ and I think I could have gotten Max Tow and the side steps on a High Country.  Now 5 months and 6K miles in I am very happy with my decision.  My SLT has all the luxury features I wanted with the Premium Plus Package and nothing I really didn't want.  Buying at Laura worked out as I was able to get a great deal on price again.  I also was able to get the sunroof I wanted and the color (Volcanic Red) I wanted.  The retractable side steps would have been nice, but just something else I'd have to service and probably repair at some point.  We recently drove a Silverado LT rental while on vacation for the week and the lack of features compared to our Sierra SLT were very noticeable.  I really think from a price vs features standpoint the SLT and LTZ really hit the sweet spot.  Denali or AT4 and High Country are great and have more nice to have features but the cost of entry is really quite a bit more and I'm just not sure they'd have worth the extra cost to me.

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...
TJL72 Enthusiast

TJL72

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 11/21/2024 at 11:37 AM, Port Tack Farm said:

I originally wanted a Denali to replace our 2017 Canyon Denali.  When shopping for the new truck my "must haves" were 3.0 liter diesel, Max Tow and Standard Bed - everything else was negotiable.  I wanted a few features available on the Denali like HUD and retractable side steps, but I couldn't get a Denali with Max Tow which led me to the SLT.  I was stuck on GMC mostly because I wanted to purchase again from Laura near St. Louis.  I also just liked the look of the GMCs better than the Chevys.  For those reasons I really didn't look at an LTZ or High Country, even though I could have gotten the retractable side steps with the LTZ and I think I could have gotten Max Tow and the side steps on a High Country.  Now 5 months and 6K miles in I am very happy with my decision.  My SLT has all the luxury features I wanted with the Premium Plus Package and nothing I really didn't want.  Buying at Laura worked out as I was able to get a great deal on price again.  I also was able to get the sunroof I wanted and the color (Volcanic Red) I wanted.  The retractable side steps would have been nice, but just something else I'd have to service and probably repair at some point.  We recently drove a Silverado LT rental while on vacation for the week and the lack of features compared to our Sierra SLT were very noticeable.  I really think from a price vs features standpoint the SLT and LTZ really hit the sweet spot.  Denali or AT4 and High Country are great and have more nice to have features but the cost of entry is really quite a bit more and I'm just not sure they'd have worth the extra cost to me.

Yeah I was thinking I wanted Max Tow as well but in the 3.0 babymax option I think gearing goes from 3.23 to a 3.42 so not a big change really for all I tow.....  Also the Denali I think adjusts suspension (shocks only I guess) to help trailering from the video I saw from TopTruck. Still that ARC being part of an almost $6K MSRP jump is tough when looking at the differences.....which am still doing.

 

Dealer was trying to tell me Denali keeps a couple % better resale value so with Denali keeping 75% means losing 25% of a $92K truck vs with SLT keeping 73% and losing 27% of an $86K truck - its a wash so they say and you drive a better truck???

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted (edited)

2025 order guide

 

Max Tow (NHT) with 3.0 gets 3.73's

image.thumb.png.f2139b8f550563e9474f49060d4b41f7.png

 

Edited by redwngr
redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted (edited)

It depends on what options you want on the truck. 

 

Some stuff standard on Denali is optional on SLT (Adaptive cruise for example)

 

Some stuff optional on Denali is not available on SLT (HUD for example) --- so it's not possible to option and SLT to have all equipment available on a Denali.

 

Some stuff optional on Denali is standard on Denali Ultimate (supercruise, powersteps and sunroof are examples)

Some stuff optional on Denali Ultimate is not available on Denali (carbonpro box for example) 

 

And some stuff available on SLT and Denali is not available on Denali Ultimate -- standard box (6.5') for example.  

 

and so on....

 

 

I really like HUD (rpo UV6) but want 18's rather than 20's (and refuse 22's)

HUD won the argument and so have Denali instead of SLT.

I don't want a sunroof, refuse to run the shortbox and detest 22" wheels,  so the Denali Utimate out of consideration. 

 

Previous truck, the dealer any my wife convinced me to add a sunroof. In a weak moment I agreed.

It was rarely ever opened, and ti never stayed open for long.

 

When ordering this truck, dealer and I had a conversation about adding sunroof.

Sorta like the Denali/SLT discussion that @TJL72 had with his dealer.

Dealer says first question his 'buyers' ask is 'does it have a sunroof'.

I say 'and how much more do they pay for a sunroof'? 

Turns out it's less than the option cost... 

 

 

 

Edited by redwngr
  • Like 1
newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, TJL72 said:

Yeah I was thinking I wanted Max Tow as well but in the 3.0 babymax option I think gearing goes from 3.23 to a 3.42 so not a big change really for all I tow.....  

 

 

What do you tow and about how much does it weigh?

Edited by newdude
TJL72 Enthusiast

TJL72

Posted
  • Author
Posted
9 hours ago, newdude said:

 

 

What do you tow and about how much does it weigh?

Trailer  probably 2,500 lbs (7x22 snow w 5’ v- nose. 4 sleds another 2,500 or so which would be 5k-6k total weight of trailer?

TJL72 Enthusiast

TJL72

Posted
  • Author
Posted
10 hours ago, redwngr said:

2025 order guide

 

Max Tow (NHT) with 3.0 gets 3.73's

image.thumb.png.f2139b8f550563e9474f49060d4b41f7.png

 

Ok then - I guess I got it backwards!!  Seems steep for the diesel….. and I thought when i did the build that’s what it told me.  Guess I’m would rather use the X-31 package than the max tow. 

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, TJL72 said:

Trailer  probably 2,500 lbs (7x22 snow w 5’ v- nose. 4 sleds another 2,500 or so which would be 5k-6k total weight of trailer?

Do you tow it with the '22 5.3?

I'd guess it has the 10 speed?

Does it struggle?

Is it max tow? 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Z45 Senior Enthusiast

Z45

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have a 2024 Denali Reserve Pkg 3.0L 4wd CC.  Did not want the Ultimate because Super Cruise is not supported in this area of the US and I drive mostly local 2-lane rural blacktop.  I ordered it but salesman (friend) entered it as a stock order so I would not have to put a deposit down.  GM was pushing allocations on them as they are only a GMC dealer now that GM pushed them to give up Buick or invest millions of $$ in EV infrastructure to sell <100 Buick's annually.  Got supplier pricing, roughly $10 off with incentives and GM card earnings and $500 veterans incentive.....Only towing I do is a 7x14 Aluma trailer hauling a 2022 RZR XP 1000, approx. 4,000 lbs +-  4 months from order acceptance to delivery.  I traded in a 2021 Denali 6.2L and got $43,000. A similar truck but an SLT would have been in the high 30's I was shown at the time Aug. '24.

2024 GMC Sierra Denali Window Stikcer.pdf

Edited by Z45
  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
TJL72 Enthusiast

TJL72

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
On 12/2/2024 at 10:13 PM, redwngr said:

Do you tow it with the '22 5.3?

I'd guess it has the 10 speed?

Does it struggle?

Is it max tow? 

 

 

 

 

Yes I have towed with it a and the 5.3 few times - yes 10 Spd and no its not max tow -  it doesn't struggle as it has the numbers but eats fuel which is why I want the 3.0.

Edited by TJL72

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...