Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

2017 1500, 5.3.  I have the option to switch to 4H, 4L, AUTO and 2H.  When in AUTO the dash says I'm in AWD.  Do we have this option? 

I had my tranny fail on me and when I went the the tranny place I happened to be in AWD (it was raining).  He lectured me like I was driving 4x4 on a paved road. "You're not up north with snow, you don't use that on roads!"  My manual doesn't say a thing on this.

 

This isn't a AWD vs 4x4 thread.  Or I hope it's not.

Posted

Just keep it in 2WD unless otherwise needed.


Having it in auto didn't cause the transmission to be damaged nor does it cause any other real wear on the front diff either.

Posted (edited)

I use AUTO every winter since they started putting in GM trucks and NEVER have any issues.  Anyone telling you to never use it, don't know what they are talking about IMO. Its there for reason, so use it when necessary.  

 

Acquaintance is a state police canine officer and he has a Tahoe PPV and he is told to keep it in AUTO 24/7.  Has had a couple Tahoe's so far and never lost the transfer case yet.  Image them go over 130mph in AUTO?

 

Here is GM info on that; I only copied info pertaining to AUTO

 

Quote

The purpose of this bulletin is to help explain the operating characteristics of 4WD/AWD systems.
excerpt:
Automatic Transfer Cases
Automatic transfer cases will have the characteristics of both the Part-Time 4WD and the AWD systems depending on the mode selected. If the transfer case is operated in 4HI or 4LO, it will behave as a Part-Time 4WD system. If it is operated in the Auto 4WD mode, it will behave like an on-demand AWD system.

 

AUTOMATIC TRANSFER CASES
The last category is a combination of 4WD and On Demand AWD. These transfer cases have a 2HI, Auto-4WD, 4HI, 4LO and Neutral position and would fall in the general 4WD category. This transfer case has the operating characteristics of both an On Demand AWD and a Part-Time 4WD system depending on the mode selected. This transfer case uses a clutch pack to allow for a difference in speed between the front and rear axles in the Auto-4WD mode. In the 4HI or 4LO modes, there is no allowance for the difference in speed between the front and rear axles.



 

 

Edited by Z45
  • Like 3
Posted
35 minutes ago, Z45 said:

I use AUTO every winter since they started putting in GM trucks and NEVER have any issues.  Anyone telling you to never use it, don't know what they are talking about IMO. Its there for reason, so use it when necessary.  

 

Acquaintance is a state police canine officer and he has a Tahoe PPV and he is told to keep it in AUTO 24/7.  Has had a couple Tahoe's so far and never lost the transfer case yet.  Image them go over 130mph in AUTO?

 

Here is GM info on that; I only copied info pertaining to AUTO

 

 

 

That is an interesting bulletin. With the Auto 4wd, how does that affect MPG? I know that using the full time 4wd, the gas mileage takes a hit over regular 2wd. I would think that the Auto may also cause a slight drop as well.

Posted

It's still in 2WD for 99% of the time. The auto just allows it to engage the transfer case when required. Where as the 2WD keeps it from doing that.

  • Like 3
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Imagine your engine spinning your trans, and then the trans spinning the rear driveshaft.

 

when you select awd, it essentially engages a clutch between the front and rear driveshaft. 50% power sent to the front is the same as the two driveshafts being locked together in rotation.

 

The range is 5-50% power sent to the front when awd is activated. It will send power to the front based 3 things.

-Throttle input, WOT launch = 50% power to front. (This is why there is no detectable delay in traction, because it is throttle activated)

-loss of traction at the rear tires

-your speed(over a certain mph, it likely won’t send power to the front based on throttle)

 

There is almost no reason to use 4wd hi in these trucks…..unless, you are driving in an area where the awd clutches will activate so often that it could overheat them, such as a snow covered road or off roading.

 

Nowhere on the forums has anyone tested this data, but I do now own a new jeep and it had pretty much the exact same transfer case and someone hooked up a scan tool and provided all the parameters in which activate it. It all made sense how it worked.

 

One surprising thing is that in the jeep, above 25mph, it sends significantly less power to the front axle even in 4wd HI! I really assumed the transfer case would be locked in 4hi, but it’s not. Obviously to protect the drivetrain if you accidentally leave it in 4hi.

 

Edited by truckguy82

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
    • They’re not the same wiz as 10-15 years ago.  QC has fallen pretty hard.  The XP line was never good though in the first place.    https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/wix-filter-rusted-through.386492/post-6991372   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/i-ve-used-my-last-wix-filter.27299/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/looking-for-a-better-replacement-for-wix-51258.403977/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/convince-me-in-using-the-purolator-boss.401537/post-7420147   the forums are littered with posts and examples of not great wix filters the last couple years 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...