Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi everyone,

 

I have a somewhat local dealer with a 2023 Sierra Denali 1500 diesel that is for sale at a pretty big discount.  I've owned many Silverados, but never had a diesel.   The reason this Sierra is a buyback is stated as "Engine Coolant Flow Control Valve sticking."

 

I can't get any more information from GM, but that it was fixed.  It's 2023 with a original window sticker of $77k and the truck has 45k miles.  I currently drive 2000 miles per month mainly on the Interstate so the reported 30 mpg was intriguing.  I've never purchased a buy back so any help on that would be appreciated too.  My plan would be to purchase an extended warranty if I could knock the price down further.

 

I also don't want to be stuck with something that's needing work done all the time.  Any concerns on reliability for this truck?

Posted

They state it's fixed.  GM will not provide additional information.  It comes with a 12 month/12k mile warranty, but I'd look to add an extended warranty as well.  Just not sure if this issue is minor or major. 

 

The dealer states the Sierra was California vehicle and they have more relaxed laws on buying a vehicle back, compared to Iowa.  The Carfax shows it was in California.

Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Hoopster3 said:

Would that be a reason to avoid this buyback?  Or would their fix solve those issues?

I take back this may be the reason. The 2023 Silverado/Sierra are not part of this issue, only the 23 Tahoe/Yukon/Escalade are affected. It's only for the LM2 and the 23 ad newer pickups had the LZ0 3.0l diesel. There was a design change to the cooling system when the LZ0 came out and an updated control valve for the LM2 starting in late 23 models and newer. The SUVs didn't get the LZ0 at the same time as the trucks did.

I would want to know it has a good warranty (maybe beyond the factory warranty) before buying.

FWIW our 23 Tahoe with the 3.0l diesel has gotten 32 MPG on open interstate across SD & MN on I90 (some areas in SD have an 80 mph speed limit). Also remember that the diesel will need DEF about every 4000 to 5000 miles if you are driving empty/no trailer. The emission systems on the 3.0l diesel are far more forgiving to short trips than the systems on the 6.6l diesel in the 2500/3500 trucks.

 

Edited by Jay P
Posted

Thank you so much for taking the time to respond in detail.  I wish I could find out more on what was wrong and an account of the fix, but GM won't/doesn't provide that.  That highway mileage sounds pretty amazing!

Posted
1 hour ago, Hoopster3 said:

Thank you so much for taking the time to respond in detail.  I wish I could find out more on what was wrong and an account of the fix, but GM won't/doesn't provide that.  That highway mileage sounds pretty amazing!

Some lenders will squack at a buyback if it shows up as a lemon law or buyback vehicle on the title etc any type of branding will throw em off, check the carfax for that VIN.

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Hoopster3 said:

Thank you so much for taking the time to respond in detail.  I wish I could find out more on what was wrong and an account of the fix, but GM won't/doesn't provide that.  That highway mileage sounds pretty amazing!

I also think that 30mpg may be the promised land and you will  be looking at a hwy mpg of about 25 maybe a bit less in the real World, according to Fuelly

https://www.fuelly.com/car/gmc/sierra_1500/2023?engineconfig_id=148&bodytype_id=14&submodel_id=2096

I have gotten 24mpg on trips when not towing with my 6.2 fully loaded with cruise set at 74 mph.

Edited by johnnyquick
Posted
17 hours ago, johnnyquick said:

Some lenders will squack at a buyback if it shows up as a lemon law or buyback vehicle on the title etc any type of branding will throw em off, check the carfax for that VIN.

I'm waiting to hear back from insurance, but will check with lenders as well.  I'm sure I'll take a beating on the APR on a buyback...

Posted
17 hours ago, johnnyquick said:

I also think that 30mpg may be the promised land and you will  be looking at a hwy mpg of about 25 maybe a bit less in the real World, according to Fuelly

https://www.fuelly.com/car/gmc/sierra_1500/2023?engineconfig_id=148&bodytype_id=14&submodel_id=2096

I have gotten 24mpg on trips when not towing with my 6.2 fully loaded with cruise set at 74 mph.

I agree that 30 mpg would be ideal, but am prepared for less.  Currently driving a Kia Stinger AWD GT1 so even 25 would be slightly better.

Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, mjm-1957 said:

What is the last 8 of the vin number?

PM me

Edited by Hoopster3
Removed #'s
Posted
1 hour ago, Hoopster3 said:

I'm waiting to hear back from insurance, but will check with lenders as well.  I'm sure I'll take a beating on the APR on a buyback...

 

There's a difference between basically a courtesy/elective buyback, and a buyback that resulted in the title being branded as a Lemon in accordance with Lemon law. Lemon laws vary by state, but a Carfax would tell you if it actually has a branded title. That is different from simply having an event history that states the vehicle was reacquired by the manufacturer.

 

If no lemon branding, then the vehicle should qualify for the best "new car" interest rates available to you (new car rates from banks typically apply to the last 3-5 model years and under a certain number of miles, even if the car is "used"). You should already know what you qualify for based on your credit score and what your local bank/credit union offers you. Don't let the dealer dictate your financing unless they are willing to best an outside financing offer you already have...

 

Insurance should also be no different from any other used vehicle provided the title is clear.

 

If you are planning to own the truck long term until it's old and fully depreciated, I'd use the buyback as a negotiation to pay less. If they say they already have it discounted, kick them harder. Expensive trucks aren't exactly flying off the shelves these days, new or used.

 

FYI... although the last 8 of a VIN isn't technically sensitive information, you probably don't want it floating around on the internet or at least publicly viewable on a forum. You can edit your post to remove it. If a forum member is offering assistance, maybe pull a GM VIS report from GM's database for you, you can communicate via private message.

  • Like 1
Posted
45 minutes ago, Atlas said:

 

There's a difference between basically a courtesy/elective buyback, and a buyback that resulted in the title being branded as a Lemon in accordance with Lemon law. Lemon laws vary by state, but a Carfax would tell you if it actually has a branded title. That is different from simply having an event history that states the vehicle was reacquired by the manufacturer.

 

If no lemon branding, then the vehicle should qualify for the best "new car" interest rates available to you (new car rates from banks typically apply to the last 3-5 model years and under a certain number of miles, even if the car is "used"). You should already know what you qualify for based on your credit score and what your local bank/credit union offers you. Don't let the dealer dictate your financing unless they are willing to best an outside financing offer you already have...

 

Insurance should also be no different from any other used vehicle provided the title is clear.

 

If you are planning to own the truck long term until it's old and fully depreciated, I'd use the buyback as a negotiation to pay less. If they say they already have it discounted, kick them harder. Expensive trucks aren't exactly flying off the shelves these days, new or used.

 

FYI... although the last 8 of a VIN isn't technically sensitive information, you probably don't want it floating around on the internet or at least publicly viewable on a forum. You can edit your post to remove it. If a forum member is offering assistance, maybe pull a GM VIS report from GM's database for you, you can communicate via private message.

 

It definitely has a branded title.  I've gone through the Carfax and that my main reason for coming here.  I've never bought a buyback vehicle was so looking to see if this was a known issue, something GM could be trusted when they say it's been fixed, or best to stay away from.

 

I realize a buyback would come some with risk, just trying to minimize that risk OR find out that I need to get out now.  Also, have no experience with diesel and would rarely tow but it would also be a family hauler in addition to 2000 miles a month on the highway.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • tl; dr I've now reached the 6th floor of hell. I'm chronicling my journey for my morning readers.   Pulling the top of the intake apart was moderately easy but it involved a lot of parts, connections, and minutae. I was preparing for the new fuel lines to arrive ("nut and bolt kit" it's called). The fuel line connections are notched and held in place by the manifold and a metal plate with a T27 screw.   It's on the back of the intake, under the firewall, with little clearance, and two hard metal fuel lines in the way. I was using Franken-tools (weird combinations of 1/4 inch ratchet with/without an extension, with a bit holder for my T27) to get in there. One of my sockets and bits fell off and has yet to emerge on the floor. I lost a second setup and that's when I almost started throwing tools. But that was the point at which I had gotten traction on the Torx head, and it promptly stripped. No more traction.   I started humming "1-877-kars-4-kids" because I was about at that point. You know what? I'm $1500 into this thing and I can make it disappear just as quickly. This isn't fun anymore. I had spent a lot of time already "tidying" around the engine bay: Fixing all the "someone's been here before!" BS. The truck has been exclusively dealer- and shop- serviced and I'm reminded of why I never let other people work on my cars unless absolutely necessary.   Speaking of dealer service. This truck has a 1" stack of records going back to 1995. I put them all in an excel spreadsheet, date/mileage/description.   The CPI spider has been replaced 4 times in 85k miles. The EGR? Another 4. Multiple, multiple O2 sensors. One Cat. 4? Sets of plugs and wires, and I swear half the stack is diagnosis paperwork for "misfire, runs rough, extended crank, dies at stoplights".   GM was producing some proper crap back then. And it was still well within the era of brittle/crappy plastic. (Windows 95 was released the same month this truck was sold new, we HAD the technology!!)   There (was) a plastic shroud around the evaporator core and HVAC fan in the engine bay. I noticed a chunk of it missing so I poked at it some more and it literally shattered. Touched it some more and pieces were crumbling off. Had a good laugh. Clearly whatever plastic garbage they were using had broken down over 30 years and was literally turning to dust. That was a good half hour of using a shop vac to remove the rest of it.   Back to it.   I was going to give up for the evening but then decided I'm already level 10 pissed off at the stripped screw: G* D* it, give me my tools back -- and my JOY. We'll do this the hard way: The whole intake is coming off.   Blazer won Round II. After finally finding and accessing the 12 intake bolts and using a pry bar to unseat it from the heads, it popped loose in an explosion of gunk and grime raining down into open ports. Awesome.   6 times I reminded myself: Be careful of the temperature sender on the front of the intake.   YEAH, I forgot again and snapped it clean off in the removal. Add another $20 to the ever-growing list of new parts this thing is consuming.   The shame is, long before removing the intake, I had changed the oil in prep for Tuesday's momentous fuel line replacement that was going to be the magic fix and I'd have a running Blazer to tool around in this next weekend. The intake removal, including raining gunk, also gushed dirty coolant all over the valley. Of course it did. Welp, there goes another $35.   I now need an intake gasket set, bolt set, coolant temp sensor, another 5 quarts of oil, some RTV. Don't worry, I've already got 3 new jugs of Dexcool and a thermostat waiting. I'll fill it with clean water first to get it running, dump it, and then add the Dex later on in case... well, let's not go there. I'm only tearing this down once, next time the truck is going on Marketplace for FREE.   Oh, and I'm going to need vacuum hose for all the stupid connections placed at the rear of the engine which have since disintegrated. Come on, GM....tell me you don't do that anymore?   Oh, and the ears on the distributor where the cap screws down are both cracked. I mean, why not put a new distributor in it too. You get a distributor, YOU get a distributor, Everyone gets a new distributor!   This truck isn't out of the woods yet...I'm already questioning how much more time I'm willing to sink in.
    • NewDude, thank you for the suggestions!    I did follow up and the dealer indicates he has an open CX case and is working with DPAC (Dealer Parts Assistance Center).   Per the dealer, GM has had a quality spill and is not providing an update for when a replacement engine will be available.
    • That's interesting.   There was a factory wire-hole in the back, top of the rear cab, which had a wire for the third brakelight assembly running through it, as well as several holes (10 of them I believe) for all of the studs coming off of the 3rd brakelight assembly itself.   I sealed all of those holes with RTV/silicone as well.   I found it kind of odd, that none of those holes, were sealed with any kind of sealant by the factory - if there was any there, it wasn't very much.   That said, I've been out in heavy rain and have ran the truck through high-pressure car-washes a few times now and she has been 100% water-tight to this point.   I feel very confident in the repair, we'll see how it holds up.
    • I bought a used 2022 2500hd with 6.6L in February. In March took a 2200 mile trip towing our 6500 lb trailer. Changed the oil day before leaving and when we were arriving at our 1st destination, low oil light came on (roughly 1000 miles) it was 2 qts low. Now it towed like a dream, no issue there, and we did go through the mountains of TN, but still, 2 qts! Luckily I did purchase an extended warranty. Brought it to the dealership in April, oil change and consumption test. Brought it back last week, 1300 miles, no towing, and no oil showing on the dipstick. GM is reccomending a new engine (cheaper than them rebuilding), we'll see if the warranty company comes through. 
    • T3's and Ibuprofen. I do have a cryotherapy unit (ice machine) and a lift chair that will allow me to raise my legs above my heart.  There are topicals that I can use once the wound is fully healed.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...