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NAV and 6 disk changer in a Silverado

linda

By linda
in Audio, Electronics & Software

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boomer 33 Enthusiast

boomer 33

Posted
Posted

Hey Guru (Linda), I have a Yukon XL with the premium Bose system, woofer in the floor, tweeters in the pillars yada yada,. But, I guess they got to me, I can find no y91 on the build sheet or the glove box. So from what I have read here I got Gyped and given the UK6 ( it is on the build sheet.). I want the Y91 amp if it sounds that much better. Do you have one for sale ? Will it hook up direct without having to do much change to the wiring? I wondered why it sounded so weak. Seems like it had a lot of bass at first but got weak later on. Myabe I was fooling myself that it sounded good because of the hoopla. Thanks.

boomer 33 Enthusiast

boomer 33

Posted
Posted
Linda,

I contacted GM parts direct. They said that the 1514454 has replaced the 1519992. I can only hope that your amp wiring modifications work in my case.

 

Thanks

Richard

[email protected]

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

Did this new part number work for you? Thanks

linda Enthusiast

linda

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I am far from a GURU, but thanks. I was merely the next in line after Pbuilder and Sperry, they are the real GURU's. Any how, there are a number of AMPs that are compatible with the UM8/Y91 setup. If i had to guess i would say at least a half dozen or more. I had some AMPs but they sold VERY fast. I hope to get some more in within the next few weeks. I dont want to liter this thread with "for sale" stuff, so you can just shoot me an E-mail to "[email protected]" if your in the market for one, and i will put you on the list. They go for about $80 shipped, and they are fully tested. Please keep any inquiries limited to E-mail please. I know there is a partial list of compatible AMP numbers in this thread someplace....good luck..:banghead:

4x4TX Enthusiast

4x4TX

Posted
Posted

Good god...anyone got any pics and help for getting the console enough apart to get the old amp out....i got most of it undone but i still have the sides of the console on along with the big metal plate ....can i drill through the metal plate, if so what size hole do i need...is all the taking apart just to get the old amp out and the new one in?

boomer 33 Enthusiast

boomer 33

Posted
Posted

I read another post that said to take the two rear bolts out with a ratchet , then slip it in under the frame to get the front two. Then he said to bend one side of the bracket down about two inches and slide the amp out. I am not sure which bracket he is referring to but you probably have seen it. I looked at mone and this made sense but I am not ready to remove mine yet so that is all I can tell you.

linda Enthusiast

linda

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I read another post that said to take the two rear bolts out with a ratchet , then slip it in under the frame to get the front two. Then he said to bend one side of the bracket down about two inches and slide the amp out. I am not sure which bracket he is referring to but you probably have seen it. I looked at mone and this made sense but I am not ready to remove mine yet so that is all I can tell you.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

Thats correct. It takes me 5 minutes to remove my AMP. Follow these steps...

 

1. remove the storage compartment and lid (one piece) 7 screws

2. pop out the cup holder....no screws

3. Remove the back section of the console (where the air ducts are) 6 screws

4. Use a 1/4" ratchet and i think a 6mm socket to remove the 4 screws holding the AMP down

5. "from the back set" there is a metal flange (bracket) in the lower right and lower left where the back section of console has mounting screws. You need to bend the right flange down a few inches to allow the AMP to slide out the back. The flanges i am refering to will be made evident when you try to pull the AMP out. It will hit these flanges if one of them is not bent down to allow the removal.

4x4TX Enthusiast

4x4TX

Posted
Posted

Ok I think i can get it out now...after i repin, what about this extra wire....where will it come from and where does it connect....will speaker wire work or what type of wire does it need to be??

sperry Enthusiast

sperry

Posted
Posted

Here'a list of other amps. collected and "unchecked", except for the noted ones.... You're on your own!

 

Amp P/N's:

#15199992 (Discontinued) (OK)

#15199884

#15114454 or was it 45? (Replaced 15199992, as mentioned earlier.)(OK)

#15191601

#15112662

#15054675

sperry Enthusiast

sperry

Posted
Posted

Did you find the rear side screws? You move the seats way up and access them from below(under the seat area), each side.

4x4TX Enthusiast

4x4TX

Posted
Posted

I got the old amp out....now working on the pins

 

I just sent a email to gable, what is the deal with the B level wires...like b3 shows one wire already in it but the directions show a new wire going into that slot? that is the case i think for B3-B6 , what is the deal there?

 

On the C connections, where do the clear wires go to? it shows it going to B7 which already has a clear wire??

 

I did all the rest of the C's and All of the A's....

 

then its mounting th GPS antenna and running the vss wire which is one wire or two? I need some help there??

 

Thanks

sperry Enthusiast

sperry

Posted
Posted

The wires you remove from there are just stubbed off. The way the new amp handles the RSA, If I remember. B1 through B6 all stub. The muting and RSA control is done through the DATA bus.

 

The wires removed from (B1 & B2) replaced with the mic connections.

 

Remember, B10 is the DATA wire. You can tap onto the RSA C1 A-1 for that, instead of running it up to the I/P points (either the splice pack 207 or the head unit class II bus).

 

Take the bare wire found in C2, "E" and connect it to B7 along with the wire that came from B12.

 

......

 

Did I mail you the X-Ref chart? There were a few changes..Maybe you're using an old one.

msnyder Enthusiast

msnyder

Posted
Posted

I've got the TX/OK/LA/AR HU, that is, single CD and cassette. I have already added the AUX 6-disc changer. I also have Bose (non-lux), OnStar, and factory XM. If I purchase a non-lux NAV-HU will I loose my XM? And can I tap into my XM or OnStar antenna for NAV, or will I have to add a third?

sperry Enthusiast

sperry

Posted
Posted

You won't lose your XM; the presets maybe but it'll work just fine. In this case though, tou see the Artist & title on the screen; no paging through.

 

The GPS antenna is a separate unit that mounts under the dash. For the $45 or so, it's the easiest way.

4x4TX Enthusiast

4x4TX

Posted
Posted

So on the data wire, I can just run an extra wire from the rear radio harness, A1 to B10 for that?

 

This is the rear radio harness correct and not the amp harness?

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