NAV and 6 disk changer in a Silverado

sperry · November 25, 2004

I was referring to the rear seat audio, IF you have it. RSA connector 1, A-1 to AMP connector 1, B-10.

Yes, if you don't have RSA (NOT RSE), you can connect it to the Head unit connector 1, A-1 also. Just make sure you're not connecting it to the one below it - that's power!

4x4TX · November 25, 2004

I was referring to the rear seat audio, IF you have it. RSA connector 1, A-1 to AMP connector 1, B-10.

Yes, if you don't have RSA (NOT RSE), you can connect it to the Head unit connector 1, A-1 also. Just make sure you're not connecting it to the one below it - that's power!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I do have RSE and hooked it into that...I spliced that wire down below and tied B10 into that A1 slot.....everything works! I had one scare when I blew a fuse because I guess I criss crossed the two aux outlets for the cigarette lighter and the 12v outlet...i guess that is a no no....i replaced the fuse and everything is back in business....

so there is still another wire that needs to be run for the VSS?

Thanks again to Sperry and Linda.....couldnt have done this without you two

sperry · November 25, 2004

That's a long way to route the wire. All the way to the roof, then (the DATA) all the way back (electrically)! And it may not be the same DATA connection! (I didn't check RSE, since that would work with either system and isn't involved except for the programming routine.)

Use the RSA point instead! It's about a foot away and all inside the console.

sperry · November 25, 2004

Oh, and congrat's!

Note that your VSS connection may appear as if you messed up at first... If you went a while without it. The system is relearning. You will gradually see it improve but it can take quite a while. And you will have an error code set.

When all is stable, you can have it checked at your friendly dealer, it's easy to clear the set codes with the Tech 2. Maybe even a simple scan tool.

You can also clear them with 50 (some are 100) key on-ign-off cycles (not too fast!).

Only if they do not re-occur.

sperry · November 25, 2004

Hmmmm, no delete? This reply doubled!

4x4TX · November 26, 2004

I did indeed tie into the RSA..thats what i mean..not the RSE.....I tied it to the harness that plugs into the rear audio controls.....is this why i dont get any sound unless the rsa is turned on?

Is that wire I hooked up also the vss or is there something else that needs to be done....i guess i am confused as i was thinking i had to hook something up from the instrument cluster to the head unit?

So only two issues

1) radio only gets sound if the RSA is on

2) vss done or not?

3) I didnt tape up the extra wires that werent needed..is that ok or not?

Thanks!

sperry · November 26, 2004

Hmmm, I never heard of that RSA problem... But, if in doubt (even though it's the same connection electrically), you can run a (dark blue if you have it) wire over to the parking brake area for an alternate DATA connection. Look for a shorting block between the fuse block rear and the relay block. It'll look like a slim wide connector with only a few wires going to it. That's SP 207. Look for this sequence: Blank-pink-yellow-tan-blank-blank-LtBlue-LtGrn/black-Blank. Some colors may not be there and I can't post the pic. HOWEVER, you CAN connect it to ANY of these, the factory connects the amp (if it had one OEM) to "F" with a dark blue wire. That's the blank just prior to the Lt. Blue one. But you'll need a connector. Get one from those stubs.

But first,

Speaking of the stubbs, insulate each one so they don't touch one-another or anything else. Maybe with some heat-shrink tubing if you can.

VSS, well, I waited a while and had kinda jerky-lagging operation. Then, when I hooked it up, it was on the wrong point (one print showed it one way, the other was another...). So mine did weird things until I corrected it.

Maybe the RSA problem is those (touching?) wires. I'll have to look at that closer..

4x4TX · November 26, 2004

So that is not how it is suppose to be, having to turn on the rsa for the sound to work for the nav unit? I figured since that is where I tied the data unit into that was correct? I didnt use a dark blue wire to do this though ,I just cut off one of the stubs(purple wire I think) with a connector on it and stripped a piece of the a1 wire from the rsa harness to tie to....so its connected to the a1 rsa harness about 3 inches below the connector....

let me know if you figure why the rsa has to be on for me to get sound through the radio...i wish the rsa just stayed on so i didnt have to turn it on manually everytime i get into the truck

linda · November 26, 2004

Did you try to run a temp wire up to "A1" at the head unit to see if that worked? It would only take you a minute to run one up there temporarily, just to see how that worked for you.grab a wire 4 or 5 freet long and hook it to your "B10" at the AMP harness and just run it outside of the console up to the "A1" of the head unit and see what you get. Disconnect the one from the RSA first of course. If that works, make it permanent by running it through the console.

sperry · November 26, 2004

Although it's electrically the same, with DATA, just like RF, weird things go on.. Try that or the SP207 tap. But the one at the HU is easier to find.

gruffid · November 28, 2004

Is anyone replacing the speakers with something else for use with the luxury TNR & luxury amp? What (which speakers) do the "Gurus" recommend?

And for the sub as well. Any advise for a dual sub setup?

Has anyone put 8"s in the doors? How? (I know it's a little off-topic, but I'm planning my system out and I want the TNR - possibly the lux version since you guys seem to like it so much )

Thanks

JT

sperry · November 28, 2004

I would say, get the amp & HU changes first. Leave the speakers after all the dust has settled per se'.

Then remember that Bozo is a bit weird when it comes to matching up the speakers, so be cautious. If you want to boost the bass, get an amp that has isolated high level inputs and an LFE setting for driving a larger sub. Maybe leave the stock one in and tap onto it at the amp connector 2. It's a dual-coil unit so tap it as stereo - high level in. Bridge the output if you have to (if one rear sub, for instance) otherwise, do the 2 channel hook-up all the way to the aftermarket subs.

Remember, the Luxury amp is a "clean" sounding amp but it's not a DB blasting challenger that'll blow windows out, and boze simplifies (really cheapens) the crossovers for mid's and tweeters. But the way it is, I am really pleased with it.

`Just wished it was 5.1 dts/dd like the cadillac sts? or whichever one has it...

OKC_Joe · November 28, 2004

I have followed this forum for about one month now, and I have read all of the posts pertaining to Bose and Navigation. I have gained much valuable knowledge from this group, and I greatly appreciate everyones efforts. I have successfully installed a non-TS 2004 luxury navigation radio in my almost 2-month old 2004 Silverado 4-door extended cab which had the "dumb" Bose, and I have recently upgraded this to the new 2005 TS Luxury one; all because my local GM Dealer told me that it wouldn't be possible to do. Now I'm very happy with my new "home brewed" Luxury Sound and Navigation System. What I would like to do now is to try to help consolidate as much information as possible in an effort to help this cause. I lost track of how many hours I have spent learning everything I needed to know before attempting this conversion, and I would like to save other people some time if they are interested in doing this upgrade. I have been working on my own pinout sheet that also includes some valuable information, as well as a step by step approach for installation in Avalanche, Silverado, and Sierra trucks; and I would like to have any Senior members check it out before any of this is released.

I would like to again thank everyone for all of their input to this forum!

Best Regards, Joe

sperry · November 28, 2004

Any input would be appreciated! .

Several of us have been-there-done that, and we share what info we can, since GM isn't much help.

Most dealers say "it can't" as a simple cop-out. It translates to: "We don't know how but won't let on to that."

I've been showing mine what to do!

PM me your e-mail address and I'll send you my amp wiring X-ref (send me yours) so we can compare notes with that, to start.

I'm also on the CAFCNA Avalanche site with the same screen name. (Not strict to Av owners) We have H2, Ext, `burb, Tahoe and silverado - etc. owner-members there too..

...Steve