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Hole in my Transfer Case

Wardster

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383 Enthusiast

383

Posted
Posted

I recently purchased an '02 8.1/Allison with 109,000 miles and noticed the hole in the transfer case. The hole is on the lower half of the case instead of the top. Is the hole in this location caused by the pump? What length screw can be used to plug the holewithout causing interference inside the case? I've tried J-B weld 3 times and it hasn't lasted more than a couple of hundred miles.

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Jeffgeiger Enthusiast

Jeffgeiger

Posted
Posted

383,

 

JB Weld is a great product! However, you are battling physics here. Look at the photos I think that I figured how to attach.

post-46796-1202763198_thumb.jpg

 

The oil pump has four tabs once they start sawing into the case they have A signifigant mechanical advantage.

When you JB weld one spot, all that force is applied to the one repaired location.

The screw thing worrys me, If you could tap all four boss's, and insert hard machine screws.. Maybe, but

It makes the engineer in me sweat!,

 

Even if you plug the hole, the pump is still free to move a good deal, so look at the photo, there is an

o' ring around the pump pickup tube, mine was totally destroyed from the movement.

 

If you were to take the rear case off and fill all the wear grooves (JB) + add a "case saver" I think that you

will not have to do it over.

 

I have not heard any one having only a hole in the lower boss, but I suppose that you just have a case that may be lighter than specs in that location. Remember, just cause its poppin' out there, the other three are diggin in as well.

 

I'll post more detailed case photos of what your battling later

 

ttfn ED

383 Enthusiast

383

Posted
Posted

Thanks Ed, I was looking for an easy fix, trying to patch

the hole without removing the case. I see now that the problem

is deeper than the case.

I also have an '01 Tahoe. Do you know if this problem affects

the half ton trucks?

cape horn 24 New Member

cape horn 24

Posted
Posted

1. Newbie

 

2. Found this site on Feb. 10 2008, Why

 

3. Oil on driveway sunday afternoon after 200 mile trip home from Orange Beach Al.

 

4. So far you guys have hit the nail on the head

 

5. Yesterday after work cleaned up t-case, tightened up bolts, then carefully examined and discovered 2 holes on the lower half of the case.

 

6. cleaned, sanded, applied a temporary patch till I can find out how to fix the problem.

 

7. HELP!!!!

 

8. Back to #1, since I'm now a logged on member where do I find this topic in the gm-truck.com site, found the thread in a google search and saved to favorties, but haven't been able to find it through the site home page.

 

9. Thanks for all the great info

 

BA

bersh Enthusiast

bersh

Posted
Posted
383,

 

JB Weld is a great product! However, you are battling physics here. Look at the photos I think that I figured how to attach.

post-46796-1202763198_thumb.jpg

 

The oil pump has four tabs once they start sawing into the case they have A signifigant mechanical advantage.

When you JB weld one spot, all that force is applied to the one repaired location.

The screw thing worrys me, If you could tap all four boss's, and insert hard machine screws.. Maybe, but

It makes the engineer in me sweat!,

 

Even if you plug the hole, the pump is still free to move a good deal, so look at the photo, there is an

o' ring around the pump pickup tube, mine was totally destroyed from the movement.

 

If you were to take the rear case off and fill all the wear grooves (JB) + add a "case saver" I think that you

will not have to do it over.

 

I have not heard any one having only a hole in the lower boss, but I suppose that you just have a case that may be lighter than specs in that location. Remember, just cause its poppin' out there, the other three are diggin in as well.

 

I'll post more detailed case photos of what your battling later

 

ttfn ED

Could you please explain what it is that you are showing in the picture. I think I can tell what is going on, but not sure. Also, for those that simply plug the outside of the case, what happens to the clip that breaks on the inside? Is it rattling around, possibly getting caught in the works? What about the metal shavings that must be caused by the wear, what happens to them?

 

I am admittedly a bit surprised and worried upon reading through this thread, as I have a feeling it is a matter of time before my 04 has this problem. I have about 60K on the truck and the warranty will expire in a another 40k miles, so hopefully if it happens it does it while I'm still covered.

cape horn 24 New Member

cape horn 24

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

 

Yesterday went looking, a good friend @ the local parts store said he couldn't get parts choices junkyard or local dealership.

 

Went to dealership discussed with several people, this is what I came away with

1. back half of case, clip, oil, gasket sealer $500, labor $700-800 total $1200-1500

 

2 new t-case $1500 labor $500 total $2000

 

3. new case $1500 install myself total $1500

 

4. Not sure if I want to break apart but #1 w/o labor $500 but what will I get into?

 

Any Feed back?

 

BTW: 2001 2500hd 6.6 duramax/allison 115,000

 

BA

Jeffgeiger Enthusiast

Jeffgeiger

Posted
Posted
383,

 

JB Weld is a great product! However, you are battling physics here. Look at the photos I think that I figured how to attach.

post-46796-1202763198_thumb.jpg

 

The oil pump has four tabs once they start sawing into the case they have A signifigant mechanical advantage.

When you JB weld one spot, all that force is applied to the one repaired location.

The screw thing worrys me, If you could tap all four boss's, and insert hard machine screws.. Maybe, but

It makes the engineer in me sweat!,

 

Even if you plug the hole, the pump is still free to move a good deal, so look at the photo, there is an

o' ring around the pump pickup tube, mine was totally destroyed from the movement.

 

If you were to take the rear case off and fill all the wear grooves (JB) + add a "case saver" I think that you

will not have to do it over.

 

I have not heard any one having only a hole in the lower boss, but I suppose that you just have a case that may be lighter than specs in that location. Remember, just cause its poppin' out there, the other three are diggin in as well.

 

I'll post more detailed case photos of what your battling later

 

ttfn ED

Could you please explain what it is that you are showing in the picture. I think I can tell what is going on, but not sure. Also, for those that simply plug the outside of the case, what happens to the clip that breaks on the inside? Is it rattling around, possibly getting caught in the works? What about the metal shavings that must be caused by the wear, what happens to them?

 

I am admittedly a bit surprised and worried upon reading through this thread, as I have a feeling it is a matter of time before my 04 has this problem. I have about 60K on the truck and the warranty will expire in a another 40k miles, so hopefully if it happens it does it while I'm still covered.

 

 

Sorry for the delay in reply, I am taking some photos of a bad case and the oil pump and exactly what the problems are, Including that (anti rattle) Chev calls it an (oil pump wear sleeve)clip that doesn't do anything except break off.

I took photos last night but they came out terrible, will retake tonight and write up a proper document and post it.

I have to drive to Seattle tonight, so it might be a day or so.

The photos will show how the pump (after the clip breaks) eats into the case and exactly where it does. BTW

I checked mine it did eat the bottom boss, but there was a pin hole in the top as well. You really don't know when that clip breaks since the magnet is clear inside the case at the spilt and the only possiblity is fishing it out with a stronger magnet

then the one in the case. Mine ground the clip to dust. I suggest that when the case is drained to strain the oil through a pair of nylons and at the first sign of any signifigant amount of magnesium grit, cry foul! because there should be none

in the oil at all ever if everything is working properly. Magnesium is from the case or the mode shift fork, Steel would be from the clip or gears.

 

I'll post more later (sorry but work comes first)

Jeffgeiger Enthusiast

Jeffgeiger

Posted
Posted
Hey guys,

 

Yesterday went looking, a good friend @ the local parts store said he couldn't get parts choices junkyard or local dealership.

 

Went to dealership discussed with several people, this is what I came away with

1. back half of case, clip, oil, gasket sealer $500, labor $700-800 total $1200-1500

 

2 new t-case $1500 labor $500 total $2000

 

3. new case $1500 install myself total $1500

 

4. Not sure if I want to break apart but #1 w/o labor $500 but what will I get into?

 

Any Feed back?

 

BTW: 2001 2500hd 6.6 duramax/allison 115,000

 

BA

 

If you are as I said proficent with a set of snap ring pliers and seal drivers (bearing pullers help) you can do this in an evening on a solid table. Its not bad, If you need I have the exploded diagrams.

I prefer doing these myself because I know exactly what I have replaced and what condition its in.

I bought every bearing, chain, seal and the rear case for about $450 so I have basically a new unit.

My unit also needed the mode fork, and a couple of gears so I went about $650 to complete the repair.

Make sure you get the case saver!!!!!!

  • 2 weeks later...
Riverjet502 Enthusiast

Riverjet502

Posted
Posted

What model of Transfercase are we talking about here? If memory serves right didn't chevy have two different t-cases available from 04 on down. I was thinking that they still used the older version yet... Anyway makes me glad I still run the old cast iron 205 with geardrive...

  • 4 weeks later...
Brant S. Fagan New Member

Brant S. Fagan

Posted
Posted

Gents--

 

The solution to this problem comes from Eric at Merchant Automotive, www.merchant-automotive.com

 

I have his kit for the transfer case pump rub problem and will be installing it this week.

 

Check his website and get one installed before you blow yours apart from dry running.

 

Until the case is redesigned to prevent this type of component movement within the case, this is the only way to improve the situation.

 

Good luck.

 

Best,

 

Brant

  • 2 months later...
airframeguy New Member

airframeguy

Posted
Posted

I have a 99 Cadillac Escalade (5.7L), and I noticed the "pin holes" in my case as well, thought it was a casting fault... tried JB Weld, didn't hold long.. went to another type (not sure offhand the name).. seemed to hold for a couple months... then I noticed the oil on the floor again 2 days ago. The problem started at about 110,000... now I am at 116,500. I was about to kick it to the curb when I found this thread... might have some new found hope.

 

So it doesn't seem to be on just HD models.

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