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Hole in my Transfer Case

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Rensch100 Enthusiast

Rensch100

Posted
Posted

THere is a fix for the pump wearing a hole threw the transfer case. JB weld fromt he outside may be a patch, but it will not last and at some time it will just wear threw the case on one of the other 3 ears. Some transmisison shops are using case savers now, but be leary again. I have seen guys that have JB welded a flat washer that has the same shape of the pump but I would not recommend it. I have used epoxy to plug holes from the inside out, then There is a plate available that replaces part of the pump, instead of having an 1/8 inch ear that stops the pump from spinning it is 3/8 inch's wide.. It is a good fix and takes care of the problem providing you haven't fried your transfer case allready, if you have then the cluch disk are gone, sorry, time for a reman. Its a hard sell to try and prevent it. But I do have a contractor that I have done 13 of his trucks because he replaced 2 transfer cases. In my shop you are looking at 6.2hrs and $100 for the plate. If a guy can split the transfer case himself before the anti rattle clip breaks, it is easy to replace the steal anti rattle clip that causes all the problems. If you try it, don't forget to pull your speed sensors out and rubber plug, there is a snapring inside there, oh ya and as one of my customers found out, if the case comes apart 2 inches and then stops, the snap ring is still holding don't use a portapower to pry it appart. He got reman case.

 

I will grab the manufacture of the plate I have been using and post it tomarrow

  • 2 months later...
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dorman68 Enthusiast

dorman68

Posted
Posted

Hello,

 

I would like to know if anyone has an old transfercase tailshaft housing laying around with the pump rub issue. I do not care if it has a pin hole in it.

 

Thanks

Rum New Member

Rum

Posted
Posted

I have a 2001 HD Dmax and I work in the bush logging. I drive about 200+ km a day,so the truck has to run.

Anyway, the transfer case oil pump died and wore holes in the tail shaft housing.

I called a local welding shop and they told me that they wouldn't weld it because it's magnesium,

however they did tell me that there is a epoxy compound that is machinable. I can't recall the name of the

stuff but was about $80 for 5 oz's. I knew my transfer case was toast because it had run dry for

so long, that I decided to experiment with the old crap. I took out the oil pump, striped it down

and took out the center collar, slid it back onto the shaft then fixed the holes. I put in new bearings

and slapped it back together, then drilled and tapped a new high level oil hole

(about the height of the bottom of the tail shaft bearing) and

filled the T-case thru the rubber plug for the tail shaft snap ring. Then I swapped the crap ATF oil out

for some serious aw-68 hydro oil. Its been running this way for 4 months now without any problems so far

and there's no more oil pump to worry about. Plus if you get a leak, the thicker oil will stick to the Tcase

unlike atf that washes off.

 

On a side note, I have also droped the ATF outta my manual transmission and put in AW-68 (tranny is super quiet now).

I did this to stop gear chatter because of a ceramic clutch upgrade.

 

I'm sure I'm gonna get a few comments about my tactics, but hey at least its working :dunno:

  • 1 month later...
blombard New Member

blombard

Posted
Posted

I've now gone thru 2 of these on my Yukon XL 1500. First one drilled thru the case at 59K mile. Dealer replace the rear half of the case and the clip. Failed again this weekend, 25K after the first repair, but much more catastrophically, pumping most of the fluid out.

 

Dealer scratched his head and said "Gee, never seen them fail twice before" Yeah right, this thread would seem to say otherwise.

 

Don't beat on the truck - occasional light towing (less than 10% of overall mileage) 99% of 4X use is paved roads in snow, again less than 10% of overall mileage.

 

Anybody have any luck pushing GM to cover some of the cost on this? It *clearly* a poor design.

  • 1 month later...
i4110 New Member

i4110

Posted
Posted
Xoval,

 

The hole will likely appear at the top of the transfercase as installed. (nice huh?)

Its right over the top most strength fin from the passenger side. You will need

an inspection mirror and good eyes to see it forming. Fluid ususally leaks

slowly down the passenger side of the range case and kind of looks like the bolts might

be seeping oil.

 

From my experiance, I can tell you that once the problem is signifigant, and the oil pump

is moving around +/-.250 back and forth, the real telling symptom is noise.

When you slow to a stop, and release the brake the oil pump in the t-case will make a noise

akin to "spring slap" In fact the dealer swore that the noise I was hearing was caused

by bad shocks, and possibly springs. In fact what I was hearing was the "lash" created by

the oil pump moving and no lubricant.

 

Watch the outside of the case for signs of any oil, listen for strange noises on starts and stops, and

check the lubricant frequently. These units will fail, it's just a matter of time, unless you install the case saver.

 

These guys make the "Problem Fixer" for the oil pump. I installed one.

 

www.riversidegear.com/categories/transfer-cases-and-parts/g-m-transfer-cases-and-parts/products/product-630.html

 

And by the way the case can be purchased from reliable parts houses for $175. They are OEM

 

Keep on truckin' -> Ed

i4110 New Member

i4110

Posted
Posted
Xoval,

 

The hole will likely appear at the top of the transfercase as installed. (nice huh?)

Its right over the top most strength fin from the passenger side. You will need

an inspection mirror and good eyes to see it forming. Fluid ususally leaks

slowly down the passenger side of the range case and kind of looks like the bolts might

be seeping oil.

 

From my experiance, I can tell you that once the problem is signifigant, and the oil pump

is moving around +/-.250 back and forth, the real telling symptom is noise.

When you slow to a stop, and release the brake the oil pump in the t-case will make a noise

akin to "spring slap" In fact the dealer swore that the noise I was hearing was caused

by bad shocks, and possibly springs. In fact what I was hearing was the "lash" created by

the oil pump moving and no lubricant.

 

Watch the outside of the case for signs of any oil, listen for strange noises on starts and stops, and

check the lubricant frequently. These units will fail, it's just a matter of time, unless you install the case saver.

 

These guys make the "Problem Fixer" for the oil pump. I installed one.

 

www.riversidegear.com/categories/transfer-cases-and-parts/g-m-transfer-cases-and-parts/products/product-630.html

 

And by the way the case can be purchased from reliable parts houses for $175. They are OEM

 

Keep on truckin' -> Ed

 

 

Hello to all holy transfer case buddies, I am in absolute disbelief. My GMC 2500HD just cleared the 100k warranty and I have just found out about the infamous hole issue. I had taken my truck in before the end of the warranty period for the clunking noise described above and the GM dealer had no answer but to put a new set of springs on. It is now going to cost me almost $1400.00 to have this taken care of. This sounds like such a wide spread issue that I think GM should take care of it. Fat chance. So much for my faith in GM.......!

i4110 New Member

i4110

Posted
Posted
Xoval,

 

The hole will likely appear at the top of the transfercase as installed. (nice huh?)

Its right over the top most strength fin from the passenger side. You will need

an inspection mirror and good eyes to see it forming. Fluid ususally leaks

slowly down the passenger side of the range case and kind of looks like the bolts might

be seeping oil.

 

From my experiance, I can tell you that once the problem is signifigant, and the oil pump

is moving around +/-.250 back and forth, the real telling symptom is noise.

When you slow to a stop, and release the brake the oil pump in the t-case will make a noise

akin to "spring slap" In fact the dealer swore that the noise I was hearing was caused

by bad shocks, and possibly springs. In fact what I was hearing was the "lash" created by

the oil pump moving and no lubricant.

 

Watch the outside of the case for signs of any oil, listen for strange noises on starts and stops, and

check the lubricant frequently. These units will fail, it's just a matter of time, unless you install the case saver.

 

These guys make the "Problem Fixer" for the oil pump. I installed one.

 

www.riversidegear.com/categories/transfer-cases-and-parts/g-m-transfer-cases-and-parts/products/product-630.html

 

And by the way the case can be purchased from reliable parts houses for $175. They are OEM

 

Keep on truckin' -> Ed

 

 

Hello to all holy transfer case buddies, I am in absolute disbelief. My GMC 2500HD just cleared the 100k warranty and I have just found out about the infamous hole issue. I had taken my truck in before the end of the warranty period for the clunking noise described above and the GM dealer had no answer but to put a new set of springs on. It is now going to cost me almost $1400.00 to have this taken care of. This sounds like such a wide spread issue that I think GM should take care of it. Fat chance. So much for my faith in GM.......!

 

 

 

Well, $1300 later I find out that It was a snap ring on the output shaft that failed with the same result, a hole in the top of my transfer case. Repair completed and guess what....... the clunking noise when stopping and starting is gone! I told the service manager at the dealer that they should all go back to school!icon7.gif

sonjaab Senior Enthusiast

sonjaab

Posted
Posted

I can only assume unless NPG either installs more or a

different design wear clip or uses one of the aftermarket

anti rub devices (all pictured elsewhere in this thread)

and yes they are still using the same cases in the gmt-900

as the gmt-800s this problem will continue.............

  • 1 year later...
Hole in my case New Member

Hole in my case

Posted
Posted

Wow, sorry to bring up an old thread (especially a hijacked one), but has anyone had any luck with Chevrolet on this issue? Happened to me yesterday at 140k miles on my 2004 2500. I am assuming the answer will be a resounding no. My dealership service department acted like they had never heard of any problems like that on the phone and told me to bring it in for a look. I am willing to bet they knew the likely problem right away. We'll see, I am going to take it in tomorrow.

 

Mitchell

hockeypro1411 Senior Enthusiast

hockeypro1411

Posted
Posted

I don't think GM has offered any solutions to this issue besides telling you to purchase a new cover. I've heard of several people here locally using the JB Weld method successfully. It's worth a shot if it can save you the cost of a new transfer case!

  • 3 weeks later...
krazed1 Enthusiast

krazed1

Posted
Posted

Im new to this forum.

But the last few days Ive been reseraching this issue quite heavilly.

 

My bad luck...

Purchased an 05 Chevy 2500 HD 6.6 TD with 142,900 kms.

 

Had 2 used vehichle inspections from 2 different certified GM dealers.

The one noticed the Tcase was low on fluid.

Looked for leaks and found nothing apparent (I was there and neither did I) and did a Tcase service and fill.

 

At 143,500 kms (One week after I bought the truck) I noticed spots in my garage under the Tcase.

Took it back to the dealer and we both looked at the Tcase again, I thought maybe they didnt tighten something up as the fluid was minimal while parked. (Normal)

 

(Same mechanic that did the nspection) We both noticed a tiny pinhole on the rear top half of the case. Told me the same story about the spring, pump, movment and wear issue. Quoted me 900$ + 5 hrs labour for the rear half of the casing (Assuming all the internals were good) or 2400$ for the full transfer case and 2 hrs labour.

 

I never got recomended the "Patch" solution but they made it quite clear that this is a known problem. too bad GM has done NOTHING to help us out on the out of pocket cost and repairs to whats a well known problem..

 

Long story short in reading through countless forums the general idea Im reading is around 140,000 kms (90,000 miles) these problems are occuring. and my Warrenty (5 year, 160k) expired 2 months ago...

 

Nice surprise cost for a truck that was just purchased, and 2 GM certified inspections were completed on.

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