K&N ?

[regcab02HD]

I've got mixed emotions about K&N air filters.  I have heard some people say that they let too much dust in the motor, especially after it's "recharged".  That causes the motor life to be greatly decreased.

I have also heard they are the greatest things since mac. and cheese.  Anybody have any input.  Has anyone heard of motor problems because a K&N.  

What about other companies like Holley, Volent, and so on.

[bassdog]

I've heard the same thing but I still use one. The fact that this happens AFTER a recharge is probably due to not oiling the filter correctly or not letting it completely dry before oiling.

 

I'm confident with the filter and will continue to use one in every vehicle I own.

 

Just my .02

[Shaners]

I had the FIPK in my '00 Silverado before I traded it in.  When I removed the unit I inspected the air tube and it was still as clean as the day I put it on.  John, (StepsideZ) is now running this FIPK on his truck.  I have a K&N drop-in on my HD and I like it.  I'm not concerned with K&N's at all...

[Offroadr]

Shaners, did you see any improvement with the drop in?

[TxDoc]

I have them in trucks, cars (even M-B and a Ferrari), ATVs, dirt and street bikes, and have had no problems.

 

And, some further reading:

 

I asked K&N about the possible occurrence of more dirt passing thru the filter and got this reply:

"Our filters are tested by an outside, independent laboratory. They

have been proven to stop at least 99% of particles on a SAE dust test. This

test uses particles as low as the 0 - 5 micron range and goes up to 20

microns. For comparison, a paper filter also stops 99% on the same test and

the OEM minimum standard is 96%. Foam is generally the worst media with a

typical efficiency rating of 75 - 85%. To get higher ratings, the foam must

be more dense and therefore way more restrictive. The "tack" characteristic

of a K&N allows for increase filtration without loss of flow as well.

The testing procedure used is SAE J-726 using ISO Test Dust. This test

is the standard of the air filter industry. The test procedure consists of

flowing air through the filter at a constant rate (airflow rate is

determined by the application) while feeding test dust into the air stream

at a rate of 1 gram per cubic meter of air.

As the filter loads with dust the pressure drop across the filter is

increased to maintain the prescribed airflow rate. The test is continued

until the pressure drop increases 10" H2O above the initial restriction of

the clean element (in this case .78" to 10.78" H2O). At this point the test

is terminated. The dirty filter element is then weighed. This weight is

compared to the clean element weight to determine the total Dust Capacity.

The amount of dust retained by the filter is divided by the total amount of

dust fed during the test to determine the Cumulative Efficiency.

The K&N filter achieved the following results:

Dust Capacity: 305 grams

K&N Cumulative Efficiency: 99.05 %

OEM Paper Efficiency: 99.29 %

Holding the filter to the light is useless, pin holes are normal. That

is what makes a K&N filter. There are actually hundreds of microscopic

fibers that cross these holes and when treated with oil, capture and hold

the very fine particles. On the same hand, they allow the filter to flow

more air than paper or foam. The filter is 4 ply cotton gauze unlike some

competitors synthetic material filters. The synthetics do not have the very

small fibers that natural cotton does. Also, the oil can be pulled off of a

foam filter contaminating electronic sensors. It will absorb into cotton

and stay in the media. In fact, Honda and Toyota only recommend K&N filters

when using aftermarket high flow filters as K&N is the only brand of filter

the oil does NOT come off of. They will not cover a failed sensor if foam

filters were used.

We got started over 30 years ago making filters for motorcycles and off

road racers. The filters did so well that these guys wanted them for their

cars and trucks. We started making filters for these applications and here

we are today. If they did not work, we would not still be here and growing

every year.

We now make filters for Chrysler/Mopar, Ford Motorsports, Edelbrock,

Rotax Engines, and Harley Davidson. We come as original equipment on the

2000 Ford Mustang Cobra-R. We even made filters for the Apache helicopters

used in Desert Storm because of maintenance problems with the original paper

design. If they work in these conditions they will work for you.

Our filters have a 10 year / million mile warranty. The dealership

may not void the warranty per Federal laws. The Moss-Magnuson Warranty Act

of the Fair Trade Commission states that if a part is not covered under

warranty, the consumer may use any brand they choose to. Air filters are

not covered under the warranty so you are free to use any brand you choose.

We make the filters for Mopar Performance and Ford Motorsports. I find it

highly unlikely they would endorse a product that causes problems with their

vehicles. "

 

 

Facts You Should Know About Air Filters

 

The primary function of an air filter is to clean the air before it enters the engine. If this is true, why do we see so many engines, especially expensive competition engines, without air filters? The answer is airflow. An engine’s power output is proportional to the volume of air it can ingest at any given rpm, assuming the fuel management system is capable of sustaining a near perfect air/fuel mixture ratio. The minutest restriction in the air induction system will cause an engine’s optimum power output to drop.

 

Maintaining optimum, unrestricted flow becomes a problem when the air must pass through a filter element. Conventional paper elements are very resistant to air flow because the filter material or medium is very dense. The greater the restriction the greater the power loss will be.

 

K&N engineers have made vast improvements in performance, durability and serviceability by directly addressing these inherent compromises. In the late ‘60s, K&N developed an oil impregnated cotton air filter gauze which exceeded the minimum filtration standards while offering little restriction to air flow. As a result, the first K&N filter element was manufactured by sandwiching several layers of surgical gauze between two sheets of wire mesh. The medium was then pleated to reduce the filter’s overall size and to increase its surface area. Finally the cotton gauze was oiled to enhance it’s filtering capabilities. The original concept exists today and after many refinements has evolved into the component used in our automotive, industrial, marine and motorcycle air filters.

 

K&N’s oil-impregnated, cotton-gauze element is the basis of our filter, as well as K&N’s overall dominance of the reusable air filter market. To further make the point, consider that square inch per square inch, our filter will flow at least 50% more air than the average paper filter without sacrificing filtration efficiency.

 

Dispelling Myths About Air Filtration

 

There is a common misconception in the automotive community that in order for an air filter to achieve high airflow it must sacrifice air filtering efficiency. This is simply not true.

 

Most people believe that all air filters function on a go/no go basis where dirt particles that are larger than the openings in the filter media are trapped while particles that are smaller than the openings can pass right through. A dry paper air filter does function in this manner. That’s why paper filters are so restrictive to air flow. The openings in this type of filter have to be very small to filter efficiently.

 

The oiled cotton media used in the K&N air filter functions in an entirely different manner. There are proven scientific principles that determine how an air filter removes dirt particles from the air stream. The first of these principles is known as interception, which applies to dirt particles traveling with the air stream. Air flow will always take the shortest path and as the air is forced to flow around the filter’s fibers some of the particles will contact the sides of the fibers and be captured. These particles are then held in place by the oil or tacking agent in the fiber.

 

Another principle is known as impaction, which mostly affects larger or heavier dirt particles. Impaction occurs when the inertia or momentum of the particle causes it to deviate from the flow path. In other words the heavy particles do not follow the air stream around the filter’s fibers but instead they run straight into the fibers and are captured.

 

The most important principle for our use is diffusion, which deals with the laws of physics that govern the motion of very small dirt particles. Small particles are highly affected by the forces in the air stream. Forces such as velocity changes, pressure changes, turbulence caused by other particles and interaction with the air molecules cause these very small particles to become random and chaotic. As the result these particles do not follow the air stream and their erratic motion causes them to collide with the filter’s fibers.

 

This phenomenon enables an air filter to capture dirt particles that are much smaller than the openings in the media.

 

In addition, the way that dirt collects or loads on the K&N filter is very different. A paper filter exhibits "surface loading" which means dust collects only on the surface of the media. In contrast, K&N filters exhibit "depth loading". The multiple layers of cotton fibers provide many levels of dust retention.

 

This characteristic allows the K&N filter to hold many times more dirt per square inch of media than the average paper filter.

 

Utilizing these scientific principles, K&N has been able to design an air filter that is very free flowing while also being highly efficient at removing dirt from the air.

 

Independent Laboratory Test Results

 

All K&N air filter designs are tested both in house and by independent testing laboratories for air flow, filtering efficiency and dust retention. The testing standards for automotive air filters are set by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE). The K&N Air Filter has achieved an overall efficiency rating of over 99% when tested by the SAE J726 air filter test code.

 

Independent Lab Flat Filter Test Results - Click Here!

 

Independent Lab Round Filter Test Results - Click Here!

 

Paper vs K&N

 

Paper filters are made from compressed fibers. The spaces between these fibers provide microscopic holes the air must pass through. One by one, these holes become plugged with dirt and dust particles. Once a hole becomes plugged, the air must find an alternate route through the medium. This process is known as surface loading. As the surface of the filter collects more dirt, its resistance to air flow increases because there are fewer and fewer holes left open and as restriction goes up, horsepower and fuel economy go down.

 

But to meet minimum filtration standards, the paper must be thick and/or the fibers must be tightly compressed and dense. Therefore paper elements that provide adequate filtration are restrictive to air flow by design. Any paper element that could flow as much air as an equivalent K&N would not provide safe filtration. Additionally, as a paper filter becomes more and more clogged, the pressure inside the filter drops while the atmospheric air pressure (approximately 14.7 psia at sea level) outside the filter remains the same. It’s like using your lungs to draw the air out of a plastic milk bottle. When the pressure differential becomes too great, the bottle will collapse. The same thing could happen to your paper filter, although it is unlikely. But what will happen could be just as severe. An excessively high pressure differential created by a restricted filter can literally pull dirt particles through the paper medium. In other words, the performance of a paper filter, i.e. air flow through the filter and its ability to protect your engine, DECREASES near the end of its service interval.

 

The K&N air filter is somewhat more complex. The unique design features multiple layers of oiled cotton fabric which captures the airborn dirt particles. These dirt particles cling to the fibers of the filter and actually become part of the filtering media. This process, known as depth loading, allows the K&N air filter to retain many times more dirt per square inch than a paper filter. The cotton fabric is sandwiched between pleated aluminum screen. Pleating increases surface area which in turn promotes additional air flow and prolongs service intervals. Pleating exposes five times the surface area compared to a flat element like foam.

 

The dirt particles collected on the surface of a K&N element have very little effect on air flow because there are no small holes to clog. Particles are stopped by layers of crisscrossed cotton fibers and held in suspension by the oil. As the filter begins to collect debris, an additional form of filter action begins to take place because air must first pass through the dirt particles trapped on the surface. That means the filtration efficiency of a K&N element actually increase as the filter collects dirt. Tests have shown a K&N E-1500 filter will flow 60 percent of its maximum flow capacity after 50,000 miles of street use. And, considering a new K&N flows at least 50% more than a comparable paper element, that same filter will provide all of the air the engine needs even after 50,000 miles.

 

Conversely, dirt trapped by a paper element will impregnate the fibers, which will impede air flow at a proportional rate. In other words, performance decreases dramatically as a paper element gets dirty. At the service interval, say 14,000 miles, air flow through a paper element can decrease as much as 70 percent.

 

The efficiency of K&N’s oiled cotton gauze medium has been proven time and time again. The condition of the filter can be monitored with a vacuum gauge. The vacuum reading increases as the filter nears its service interval. A high vacuum reading means the filter is dirty and needs to be serviced.

Stock Replacement Filters

 

For the service-minded consumer, utilizing the stock air filtration system is easiest so we manufacture exact replacement air filter elements to fit in place of the factory filter. Dimensions are held to minimum acceptable tolerances to insure a perfect fit inside the stock air box. Molded rubber sealing surfaces, edges and/or end caps combined with our unique pleated cotton gauze medium creates a filter that is so durable we warrant it for ONE MILLION MILES or 10 years. And, K&N original equipment replacement filters are emissions legal in all 50 states.

 

Street engines are exposed to the same risks as racing engines but for a longer period of time. In this application, a permanent, high performance air filtration system must be durable enough to last the lifetime of the vehicle as it travels through any and all driving conditions.

 

Getting back to air flow for a moment, we have discussed stock air filtration systems and why they compromise air flow. We have also explained how K&N’s unique design is less restrictive compared to a paper element. Installing a K&N Filtercharger in place of the original equipment or aftermarket paper filter removes the restriction which then allows the engine to inhale all of the air it can physically use. Increasing the amount of air available to the engine promotes performance since oxygen in the air is a necessary ingredient for combustion. If you have a computer controlled fuel injected car, the computer will automatically add the right amount of fuel to compensate for the additional air. If your engine is carbureted, more often than not, no adjustment will be necessary. However, for competitive motorsport, it may be necessary to re-calibrate the carburetor to achieve optimum performance.

 

The amount of performance gain varies from vehicle to vehicle. A small displacement four cylinder engine may only realize a two or three horsepower gain while it isn’t uncommon for a 350 cubic inch V-8 to gain 10 horsepower or more. The greater the restriction created by the stock paper element, the greater the performance gain when you switch to a K&N filter.

 

Washable and Reusable

 

A second and equally important attribute of a K&N filter is its ability to be cleaned. Simply wash, dry and re-oil the element at regularly scheduled intervals as illustrated in the cleaning instructions included with your Filtercharger (and on page 171 of this catalog), and it will continue providing your engine with clean air for the lifetime of your car. A K&N Filtercharger can be washed and cleaned up to 25 times. We recommend inspecting the filter every 20,000 street driven miles or every 3 months of severe use.

 

Beyond the Stock Air Filter and Air Box

 

Addressing the next area of restriction, K&N engineers looked at the vehicle’s air box (the container that houses the air filter) and any hoses or duct work connecting it to the engine. Because the air must first travel through this system before it reaches the carburetor or throttle body, the overall size and shape of the system has a profound effect on air flow. Because air flows like water, it does not like to turn corners nor does it react favorably when confronted by an obstruction such as a sharp bend in a hose or a baffle. In most cases, the air box and/or the hoses and duct work used to create the air filtration system is just as restrictive as the original paper filter element. In some extreme cases, the air box and/or the air delivery system is the greatest source of restriction. The inlet to the air box is a good example. In many instances this opening is one half the cross sectional area of the throttle body or carburetor opening. It would be like trying to run a marathon while breathing through a soda straw.

 

An original-equipment cylindrical air cleaner box covering a throttle body or carburetor is another example. Most often, these round air cleaner housings are sealed to the outside air. The engine must then breathe through a snorkel attached to the perimeter of the housing. At times the snorkel is fed through a network of hoses and scoops.

 

To directly address the problem, we introduced a line of Fuel Injection Performance Kits (better know by the acronym, FIPK) that eliminates both the air box and the restriction. Our FIPKs vary in design because they are application specific meaning each kit is engineered to fit a particular make, model and year of vehicle. FIPKS utilizes a 360-degree filter design which provides increased surface area to promote air flow. Port injected engines are outfitted with a conical shaped filter while centralized fuel injection systems are sized with an open element cleaner which again, makes available all of the air the engine can physically use.

 

Off-Road and Racing Off-Road

 

An air filter element becomes an insurance policy when used in off-road applications. Competitors will sacrifice a high-tech engine for a chance to win a race — but to win, they must finish. If the engine ingests too much dirt and debris, it may die an ugly death before the vehicle can cross the finish line.

 

You might think this would be the perfect application for an inexpensive, throw-away paper filter. But remember, in competition a little extra horsepower can mean the difference between coming in first or finishing second. The air filter now becomes an important part of the performance package. That’s why most off-road competitors choose K&N filters. The reason? K&N filters offer maximum air flow without sacrificing filtration quality — even when they become packed with dirt. The fact is, dirt buildup on the boundary layer actually enhances the filtration process because it adds to the filtering medium.

 

Remember, on average a K&N filter will flow 50 percent more air compared to an equivalent paper filter. That means if all other conditions remain the same, a K&N filter will flow half again as much air as a paper filter at any point during the race.

 

Let’s consider some hard numbers. If a paper filter flows 700 cfm of air at a measurable degree of restriction, an exact replacement K&N filter will flow 1050 cfm at that same level of restriction. Keep in mind, this is an example using average flow numbers. Exact variables differ from filter to filter depending on the size, shape and configuration each filter being tested.

 

If both filters are run in the same off-road race, lets assume each collects exactly the same amount of dirt and that by the halfway point in a 24 hour race, the efficiency of both filters has dropped 50 percent. The paper filter is now flowing 350 cfm of air and the K&N is allowing 525 cfm of air to pass through. As impressive as these figures are, our example is seriously flawed because flow bench tests have proven a K&N filter will provide closer to 100 percent of the required air flow long after the efficiency of a paper filter has dropped to 50 percent. In other words, due to its characteristics, the efficiency of a K&N replacement filter drops at a slower rate when compared to a paper element, i.e. a K&N filter will last longer under the same conditions.

 

Using our hypothetical 24-hour off-road race to further the point, a properly sized K&N filter will see the racer through to the end with cfm to spare. The equivalent paper filter, on the other hand, will need to be replaced with a fresh element to ensure the engine has an adequate supply of air to complete the course. A K&N will provide superior filtration without sacrificing air flow for a longer period of time — that’s performance with value.

Racing

 

One might consider a paved road course or oval track as a clean air zone. After all, how much dirt and debris could be hovering above an asphalt track?

 

Subscribing to that theory, a road racer may elect to forgo an air filter in favor of large volumes of unrestricted air. However, testing the theory using an air filter enclosed in a vented housing should dispel the myth. The filter and housing will trap particles of loose trash kicked up by other race cars during the heat of battle. Dirt, small stones and pieces of shredded rubber expelled from soft compound racing tires can be found inside the housing after even a short race. Once a driver, car owner or engine builder realizes just how much trash is thrown around during a normal race, few would expose their expensive engines to unfiltered air in future events.

 

Whenever possible, performance enthusiasts should install a K&N 360 degree open-element filter. A correctly sized conical or round filter will deliver 100 percent air flow with no measurable restriction. And, as we have learned, providing the engine with all of the air it needs promotes optimum performance. In a high speed application, a K&N filter will straighten the air which counteracts turbulence.

 

Straight cut velocity stacks, for example, pose a unique problem. Exposed to the outside air, velocity stacks experience a phenomena that actually hinders performance at high speed. We are referring to stacks and air horns that protrude through the hood and extend into the air stream so the direction of the air rushing over the car is at a perpendicular angle to the length of the tube.

 

Air moving rapidly over these stacks create turbulence inside the opening. At high speed, the rushing air tends to create a partial vacuum inside the tube. The condition is counterproductive to air flow. The phenomena also effects open carburetors. The higher the ground speed, the greater the problem. Vacuum created by the engine is trying to coax air into the cylinders and the high speed air flowing over the open end of the stack is causing resistance.

 

Reversion creates other problems. In an automotive application, reversion refers to reversed air flow, or in simpler terms, it’s when air in the intake runner reverses direction for a split second. The condition is caused when a burst of pressure escapes into the intake runner from the cylinder during valve overlap.

 

Studies have shown reversion creates resonance shock waves inside the tubes which exit the open end of the tube at various rates depending on engine speed. It has also been proven that these shock waves interfere with each other when the stacks are in close proximity.

 

Installing a free-flowing air filter on top of each stack or over the carburetor air horn eliminates these conditions. How? The solution is simply explained. The filter creates a plenum over the opening. Air entering the filter is slowed, smoothed and straightened. The filter then becomes an endless source of calm, clean air. Shock waves dissipate within the confines of the plenum without interfering with the shock waves emitted from an adjacent stack.

 

Why K&N Is Good For The Environment

 

There are number of reasons why K&N Replacement Air Filters are environmentally sensitive. First, K&N is manufactured from renewable sources (e.g., cotton), unlike paper filters that are produced using raw materials that take years to grow (e.g., trees) and which deplete the earth of its elements.

 

Second, K&N filters - because they are washable and reusable - do not add to the already ever-growing waste of the planet. It does not, in other words, find its way into our landfills each year unlike paper filters that have to be discarded every 12,000 to 15,000 miles or on annual basis. If you consider for a moment, the total number of registered vehicles in the United States alone - which is well over a quarter of a billion - that is more than 250,000,000 paper filters that will litter our environment! Yet, you can make an immediate difference today simply by switching to a K&N filter that gets re-used again and again.

 

Cleanable, reusable, economical performance - Unlike disposable paper air filter elements, K&N filters can be washed and re-oiled for the lifetime of your car or truck. Our Million Mile Limited Warranty is your assurance that K&N filters offer quality that lasts and lasts. Top Formula One racing teams run K&N filters for the superior engine protection and airflow they provide. The same winning technology is built into all our 50-state emissions-legal replacement filters. Available to fit most cars and trucks, a K&N Filtercharger® replacement element is probably the single easiest and most cost-effective performance upgrade you can make to your vehicle.

 

Understanding all of the above benefits K&N Replacement Air Filter offers, it is no wonder K&N users feel they are helping preserve the environment!

 

Filter Selection

 

If maximum horsepower is the objective, the size and shape of the air filter element is paramount.

 

Let's first consider shape. When fitting a conventional round filter on top of the engine, such as a carburetor, central fuel injection or throttle body fuel injection, we have found a large diameter, short filter will flow more air than a small diameter, tall filter. For example, a 10-inch diameter filter 2-inches tall will flow more air than a 5-inch diameter filter that is 4-inches tall. Where space permits, the height of the filter should be between 1/5 and 1/4 of its diameter.

 

The shape of the filter is less important if the application calls for a remote mounted filter, which includes many late model fuel injected models. Typically these vehicles will use a flat panel filter or a conical or cylindrical shaped filter with a rubber mounting flange designed to be mounted on the end of the inlet hose.

 

That brings us to size.

 

Pleated K&N filter material will flow 6.03 cfm of air per square inch. By comparison, a single square inch of the highest flowing paper will allow 4.95 cfm of air to pass and the freest flowing foam will flow 4.38 cfm. Use the formula below to compute the minimum size filter required for your particular application. The usable portion of the filter is called the EFFECTIVE FILTERING AREA which is determined by multiplying the diameter of the filter times Pi (3.1416) times the height of the air filter in inches, then subtracting .75-inch. We subtract .75-inch to compensate for the rubber seals on each end of the element and the filter material near them since very little air flows through this area.

 

 

A = effective filtering area

CID = cubic inch displacement

RPM = revolutions per minute at maximum power

 

Example: A 350 CID Chevy engine with a horsepower peak at 5,500 rpm.

 

 

If you are sizing a panel filter, multiply the width of the filter area (not the rubber seal) times its length. If you are sizing a round filter, use the following formula to determine the height of the filter.

 

 

A = effective filtering area

H = height

D = outside diameter of the filter

3.14 = pi

.75 = the rubber end caps

 

Example:

 

http://www.knfilter.com/images/affform3.gif

http://www.knfilter.com/images/affform4.gif

Referencing the K&N Flow Comparison Chart shows the proper filter for this application would be an E-1500 which is 3.5 inches tall. Keep in mind, this is the minimum size requirement. To extend the service interval and to provide an even greater volume of air to the engine, install the largest filter that will fit in the space allotted. If the space above the engine is restrictive, perhaps a remote filter arrangement could be used to gain space.

Off-road conditions require added filter area. A filter should be sized 1-1/2 to 2 times larger than normal for any conditions that could be considered severe. In this case, the E-1500 used in our example should be replaced by an E-1120 or an E-1150. For long distance off-road events, two double-size remote mounted filters would be best.

 

Some important tips about K&N Filterchargers

 

Service Interval

 

A K&N Filtercharger is a high-performance air filter, both in terms of air flow and filtration. However, the service interval can vary widely depending on the severity of the driving conditions. The service interval can be from 100 miles, such as a desert-racing vehicle, to 100,000 miles by a commercial semi truck. The proper way to determine when an air filter needs service is with an air restriction gauge. Such a device is commonly used on heavy duty trucks and construction equipment. A restriction gauge, measures the pressure differential inside and outside the filter and gives the information in different forms of measurement. As the filter collects more and more dirt, the restriction value increases. At a predetermined point or rate of restriction, the filter is serviced. The maximum allowable of restriction for a K&N Filtercharger is 15" of vacuum (water). If the restriction is allowed to go higher, the filter media might become so restricted that the element could distort allowing dirty air to bypass the filter and enter the engine. Conversely, cleaning a filter too often will shorten its serviceable life expectancy. Installing a restriction gauge will optimize service intervals and take the guess work out of your maintenance schedule.

 

Service Life

 

A K&N Filtercharger can be washed up to 25 times before it is considered no longer serviceable. Even though the filter may not show outward signs of deterioration, it should be replaced after 25 washings. Excessive washings will deplete the tiny cotton hairs that crisscross the openings. The resulting damage will allow tiny dust particles to pass through.

 

Limited Warranty

 

K&N's warranty covers defects in materials and workmanship. Any K&N product deemed defective will be replaced free of charge. However, K&N is not responsible for damage or abuse. Nor can we be held responsible for inconsequential damage resulting from a damaged filter or a defective or damaged filtration system.

 

Over-oiling

 

When servicing a K&N filter, take care not to over-oil the element. Besides impeding air flow, excess oil can migrate into the intake system where it can coat electronic sensors, which may hinder their operation. Never saturate the filter. If oil drips from the filter, wash it and start over. Use only K&N oil. For example, an E-1500 filter has 92.4-inches of surface area requiring 1.707 fluid ounces of oil. Follow oiling instructions included with your filter or refer to the instructions listed in the back of this catalog.

 

Fit and Finish

 

When installing a K&N filter, check all gaskets, clamps and seams for damage and/or deterioration. Check the filter's sealing surface. Do not install a filter if the seal shows signs of damage or deterioration. Check for cracks in the air box, particularly at the seams and around the corners. Such defects could cause air leakage around the filter. Also, check to insure the filter is sealing properly in the air box. A plastic air box can warp from age or continuous heat cycling. Apply a thin layer of filter grease on both sides of the seal each time the filter is installed. An impression in the grease will indicate a positive seal. Check any lines or hoses connected to the air box or adjoining hoses leading to the engine. Engine oil in the air box, resulting from excessive blow-by, will cause the filter to shrink and possibly lose its seal. Clean any dust or debris out of the air box with a damp cloth, making sure nothing enters the air inlet while the filter is out. Never start the engine without the filter in place. Use only K&N Air Filter Cleaner to clean your filter. Harsh household cleaners can damage the cotton material and/or the rubber seal. Check the outside of the medium for broken wires, rips or tears. Do not use an element that shows signs of damage or wear. Use K&N Air Filter Sealing Grease on the sealing surface that contacts the air box. Do not use sealing grease on clamp-on type filters. If a filter is especially difficult to install, it will come with an instruction sheet explaining the correct installation procedure. Keep the instruction sheet with the vehicle for reference anytime the filter is removed. It is very important the filter be installed correctly. The filter can be positioned in the base or the lid, whichever is more convenient and makes the installation easier. Do not use excessive force to install a filter.

 

Vehicle Warranty

 

Contrary to what you may have heard or read, a K&N Filtercharger will not void your vehicle warranty. The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act passed in 1982 makes it illegal for a manufacturer to void a new vehicle warranty if the consumer uses non-OEM filters unless that manufacturer provides filters free of charge. If the manufacturer does not provide air filters free of charge, they cannot void the vehicle's warranty simply because you have installed an aftermarket air filter.

 

Summary

 

We offer thousands of stock replacement applications, hundreds of universal clamp-on filters and dozens of Fuel Injection Performance Kits. Our goal is to provide the highest quality component at a competitive price. A K&N Filtercharger will be the last filter you will ever buy for your car, truck, motorhome, motorcycle, ATV, boat or jet ski - Guaranteed.

 

Warranties on New Vehicles

 

THE MYTH: A manufacturer's new-vehicle warranty is automatically voided once an aftermarket part (non-original equipment) is installed.

 

THE TRUTH: Rarely does the use of aftermarket parts violate a new-vehicle warranty.

 

THE RULES: Federal law, (the Clean Air Act), requires two emissions warranties: a "defect" warranty and a "performance" warranty.

 

"Defect" warranties require the vehicle manufacturer to produce a vehicle which, at time of sale, is free of defects that prevent it from meeting required emission levels for it's useful life, as defined in the law.

 

"Performance" warranties require that vehicle manufacturer to make repairs - at no cost to the owner - should the vehicle fail to meet certain levels of emissions performance during the warranty period. This period ranges from 2 years or 24,000 miles to 5 years or 50,000 miles for most parts, to 8 years or 80,000 miles for certain emission-controlled parts (specifically, the catalytic converter, the electronics emission-control unit and the on-board diagnostic device) on most 1995 and later vehicles (check owner's manual for specifics on your vehicle).

 

Consumers are protected under a parts self-certification program administered by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).

 

If a parts maker self-certifies it's parts under this program, the vehicle manufacturer cannot void the emissions warranty even if the certified part fails and/or is directly responsible for the emissions warranty claim. In this situation, the vehicle manufacturer must arrange a settlement with the parts manufacturer, but the new vehicle warranty is not voided under the law.

 

If a parts maker chooses not to self-certify it's parts, the only case where a vehicle manufacturer can void the emissions warranty is if a non-certified aftermarket part is proven to be responsible for an emissions claim.

 

For some Frequently asked questions, click here

 

http://www.knfilter.com/faq.htm

[Shaners]

Shaners, did you see any improvement with the drop in?

There may be a slight improvement in overall mpg's, but performance gains can't really be noticed.  I'm guessing that when I'm towing and I'm more into the revs that it definatly helps...

[CMNTMXR81]

Well, I'll make it short and sweet.  

 

Dyno pull #1

On the dyno, K&N installed with MTI cold air lid;

316rwhp and 339rwtq

 

Dyno pull #2

Two minutes later with a regular paper Fram installed with the same MTI lid;

318rwhp and 338rwtq

 

Some will argue that the car was most likely running more at it's operating temp on the second dyno pull.  Quite possible.  Otherwise, nothing changed other than me pulling out the K&N and swapping in the regula paper Fram filter and the roughly two minutes between pulls.  Temperature was the same, humidity was the same, barometric pressure was the same, etc, etc.  Point is, the K&N didn't give me that 40% power increase they advertise.  As a matter of fact, I lost two hp and gained 1lb-ft of torque with it.  In most cases, I'd consider the difference between the two to be a draw.

 

The major advantage of the K&N is it's reusability.  Those who complain about dirt and dust, it's not dirt and dust getting through, it's small amounts of almost "soot" from the oil in the filter being sucked up.  Go look at your throttle body on the engine itself.  After extended use with a K&N I bet you'll see some of this black "sooty" type crud on the throttle body.  I did on both my Blazer and the Camaro.  This isn't that big a deal as it isn't hurting anything there and easily wipes off, but the issue I have is the sensitive resistors that we now have in the MAF sensor.  If the throttle body which is after the MAF is getting coated with this soot, so are those sensitive resistors on the MAF.  If prolonged exposure to this oily soot is done over extended mileage, expect the the MAF to send incorrect inputs to the PCM and as such the PCM setting incorrect parameters for ignition and fuel advances.

 

These two reasons are why I went back with the regular paper filter such as the Fram

[DaveRuane]

Why not try the same test but start with the paper then switch to the K&N (the normal progression of filter types). I never believe the extent of gain these aftermarket makers state but it is hard to believe a noticeable less restrictive element causes loss of HP. Those numbers seem kinda high - what was the max RPM during the test - is this where the HP/torque were measured?

 

I installed a K&N FIPK which replaces the entire airbox, and saw a noticeable gain in throttle response. If your paper theory is valid, any idea on where to find a conical paper element that will fit my new K&N airbox assembly?

 

Also, regarding the MAF. I forgot to reconnect mine after installation of the new airbox! I noticed it seemed to run GREAT with it disconnected! What exactly does this thing do?!

[Shaners]

CMNTMXR,

 

The only problem with your test is that the computer never had a chance to recalibrate when you changed filters.  

 

I'm not sure there would be an accurate way to do a side by side comparison with out taking the truck/car off the dyno for awhile to let the computer recalibrate itself for performance.  In your case the PCM was still using it's info that it had stored while using the K&N (assuming that was the filter that you had in the vehicle for the last 500 miles), and applying those algorithms to the paper filter that you installed for the second run...

 

just my thoughts

[blacksierrac3]

Do you notice alot of "sucking air" noise with the FIPK??

[CMNTMXR81]

CMNTMXR,

 

The only problem with your test is that the computer never had a chance to recalibrate when you changed filters.  

 

I'm not sure there would be an accurate way to do a side by side comparison with out taking the truck/car off the dyno for awhile to let the computer recalibrate itself for performance.  In your case the PCM was still using it's info that it had stored while using the K&N (assuming that was the filter that you had in the vehicle for the last 500 miles), and applying those algorithms to the paper filter that you installed for the second run...

 

just my thoughts

That's what I wanted!  I didn't want to give it any chance to re-learn anything.  I wanted all factors in favor of the K&N but the results didn't substantiate that.  Two pulls back to back with no programming changes.  I didn't need to pull it off the dyno as I could've reset it with my laptop.

 

I had the K&N filter in there for nearly a year, I drove some 15 miles to the dyno with the K&N in the car that morning, put the car on the dyno, pull #1 was with the K&N.  Pull #2 was with the paper filter.

 

So without any idle re-learn procedure, the paper Fram flowed just as well and produced identical numbers to the much vaunted K&N.

 

Had I let the PCM do it's idle re-learn, chances are the numbers may have been even greater for the lowly paper Fram.

 

Dave, those numbers weren't obtained with my truck but rather with my Camaro.  I presume the max numbers are taken at the 5,250rpm mark where HP and torque curves cross, but I could be wrong.

 

The whole point I was trying to make regardless of which filter was installed and dyno'd first or whether or not I let the PCM re-program itself, is that the K&N DOESN'T give you the extra 40hp that they claim in their commercials!  Even if the K&N did 320rwhp and the paper Fram did 316rwhp, the point is, the difference is negligable at best.  Do you not agree?

[onfireinAZ]

I have a 01' 2500HD ext cab 6.0 and I installed the Airaid Intake system. I can tell you I gained a solid 1 mpg, a small increase in preformance and very nice deeper sound when I put my foot in it.  The Airaid is very close to the K & N filter system but has a larger cone filter attached.  I haven't gone a far as Dyno testing to see my Hp gains. ( they claim 12hp increase over the stock air box unit)  It sounds like you have Done quite a bit to your car so maybe you cant gain any performance from just switching your air filter. If your vehichle was stock and this was the only thing you had done you may see a change.  I guess what I m trying to say is I doubt I gained 12hp and if I added an Exhaust system that claimed 10hp I would'nt gain that much additional Hp as if I had added the Exhaust system alone.

[CMNTMXR81]

Engines 101.  An engine is nothing more than a fancy airpump.  The quicker you can inhale air (your Airaid system and filter), consume the air/fuel charge (combustion chamber) and then expel it (the exhaust system), the more power is to be had because essentially you have removed the "corks" or "bottlenecks" in the system.

 

A lot of the gain that you see though when you went to that Airaid system has more to do with the Airaid system itself.  It has a bigger opening and sometimes even scoops the air up from the front of the vehicle.  That means more cooler and more dense air getting to the filter in the first place in comparison to the little slit for an opening in the stock airbox.

 

Then after the filter, the intake line to the plenum doesn't have an air silencer and is larger and smoother in it's curvature (and interior surface) which allows more uniform air flow and overall less restriction therfore delivering more air into the intake.

 

When coupled with a cat-back exhaust and even more exhaust stuff (headers, free flow cats or no cats at all) you'll see even more gain due to the restrictive factory exhaust being removed.  

 

Effectively you have increased the engine's overall volumteric efficiency.  This is why after you did the Airaid system, you most likely noted a sharper throttle response and decreased effort on the engine to make power.  The induction noise you hear when you get your foot in it comes from the less restrictive intake tract and no air silencers to do exactly that, silence the incoming air flow.

 

The K&N, Holley, or whatever aftermarket brand hi performance filter you install is just one part of a complete system.  A filter on it's own won't net you much.