Jump to content

Tsb On Ebony Seat

rayy79

Recommended Posts

grizzly700fi Enthusiast

grizzly700fi

Posted
Posted

Any chance of getting them replaced if your out of warranty? Got a 2007.5 and hate the seats. Does this cost the dealer anything or just GM?

  • Replies 1.4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply
pm26 Senior Enthusiast

pm26

Posted
Posted

Is a decent seat of seat covers out of the question for you complainers? Isn't it easier to buy and install two seat covers than to worry about lint on your original seats? That would be my solution.

arctictwist Enthusiast

arctictwist

Posted
Posted
Is a decent seat of seat covers out of the question for you complainers? Isn't it easier to buy and install two seat covers than to worry about lint on your original seats? That would be my solution.

 

 

TBH i would rather not. I hate the look of any seat cover ive ever seen. I got the newest replacement they offer and its enough of an improvement over the original that i am happy with it.

kmirts Enthusiast

kmirts

Posted
Posted

i had the new seats put on my 08. not happy with the new ones either. it doesnt collect lint as bad as old ones but now hair imbeds itself and is hard to get out even with gorilla tape. i will now be upgrading to leather.

crepitus Enthusiast

crepitus

Posted
Posted
i had the new seats put on my 08. not happy with the new ones either. it doesnt collect lint as bad as old ones but now hair imbeds itself and is hard to get out even with gorilla tape. i will now be upgrading to leather.

I am finding out the same thing. I have light color dogs in my truck a lot and the hair now gets into the cloth and you have to pick them out. Never had problems like this with my 06 Sierra. Shop Vac it right off.

kmirts Enthusiast

kmirts

Posted
Posted

@ crepitus, that truck looks like an axact match to mine, except mine isnt an nfl edition, never heard of this what is added to make it an nfl edition, you should get the white mirror caps...

Overclock Enthusiast

Overclock

Posted
Posted

Guys... does this affect the "Premium" seats or you guys just talking about the standard cloth (I have no idea what the difference is)

crepitus Enthusiast

crepitus

Posted
Posted
@ crepitus, that truck looks like an axact match to mine, except mine isnt an nfl edition, never heard of this what is added to make it an nfl edition, you should get the white mirror caps...

At the time it just what they were calling the "Z60" package (High-Performance Suspension and 20" rims)

CLASSIC87' Enthusiast

CLASSIC87'

Posted
Posted
Is a decent seat of seat covers out of the question for you complainers? Isn't it easier to buy and install two seat covers than to worry about lint on your original seats? That would be my solution.

 

 

TBH i would rather not. I hate the look of any seat cover ive ever seen. I got the newest replacement they offer and its enough of an improvement over the original that i am happy with it.

 

I couldn't agree with you more... a seat cover = CHEAP looking. The replacement covers are NICE compared to the older ones... no complaints here.

  • 1 month later...
Doug_Scott Senior Enthusiast

Doug_Scott

Posted
Posted
Guys... does this affect the "Premium" seats or you guys just talking about the standard cloth (I have no idea what the difference is)

 

Your 2010 SLE already has the updated interior if you have cloth. My 2010 Sierra SL was supposed to come with dark titanium cloth, but showed up with ebony premium cloth. Every 2010 SL truck I saw on the lot, and everyone I have ever seen in all the lots I looked, all say on the window sticker, dark titanium, but all had ebony cloth. Even the brochure says it should have dark titanium, and even shows the pattern, it also shows the upgrade ebony premium cloth, and that is what every SL gets, the upgrade cloth.

I think you will find the interior that the SL was supposed to get, was actually the one that is being replaced now.

OKLAGMCRUISER Enthusiast

OKLAGMCRUISER

Posted
Posted
Guys... does this affect the "Premium" seats or you guys just talking about the standard cloth (I have no idea what the difference is)

 

Your 2010 SLE already has the updated interior if you have cloth. My 2010 Sierra SL was supposed to come with dark titanium cloth, but showed up with ebony premium cloth. Every 2010 SL truck I saw on the lot, and everyone I have ever seen in all the lots I looked, all say on the window sticker, dark titanium, but all had ebony cloth. Even the brochure says it should have dark titanium, and even shows the pattern, it also shows the upgrade ebony premium cloth, and that is what every SL gets, the upgrade cloth.

I think you will find the interior that the SL was supposed to get, was actually the one that is being replaced now.

 

 

any pics of the two seats...old lint catchers vs. new upgraded seats for comparison? My 2010 LT has hair and lint embedded and it's a royal pain in the arse to clean them up. i have actually scheduled the truck with the dealer next monday for this problem, the cab noise issue...we'll see if they do anything...and my cruise control just stopped working (likely a bad brake switch)...AND blown rear speakers.

ironhead3fan Enthusiast

ironhead3fan

Posted
Posted

Got my new seats, no problem, but I am well within my warranty. The new seats are a little better, but they still collect the lint, just not quite as bad. You would think with all of those engineers that someone at GM could design a seat that wouldn't collect lint!

ChevyTech77 Senior Enthusiast

ChevyTech77

Posted
Posted

My '11 Silverado with premium ebony cloth collects the lint and hair just as bad as the factory original '07 seats did, imo. I knew this going in though and although I wanted leather, there is no option for cooled leather seats for a Silverado and I wasn't pulling the trigger on a Denali so it is, what it is. Nothing a lint roller or a wad of duct tape can't fix, once a week or so.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • AidenVorpagel
      cam upgrade in CA

      By AidenVorpagel · Posted

      hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • B14Sierra
      Noise after AFM delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Did you figure it out?
    • B14Sierra
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...