Jump to content

03 Silverado Rotors


Recommended Posts

Posted

Had my truck inspected yesterday, and after 5 years it finally cost more than the stickers for inspection, and emissions.

 

The rear rotors with the integral emergency/parking brake housing were shot, and had to be replaced. The rotor part was bad. The E-brake section looked brand new.

Luckily I have those original stonecrusher brakepads, and the mechanic was able to dress them up, and I still have better than 50% left.

 

post-41806-1205842229_thumb.jpg

post-41806-1205842229_thumb.jpg

post-41806-1205842229_thumb.jpg

post-41806-1205842229_thumb.jpg

Posted

Quote

original stonecrusher brakepads

Quote

I don't recognize the name ??? 50% ???

 

How many miles on your rig?

 

Did you for get to "tip" the inspector this time? :jester:

Thus the non-pass situation.

Posted
Had my truck inspected yesterday, and after 5 years it finally cost more than the stickers for inspection, and emissions.

 

The rear rotors with the integral emergency/parking brake housing were shot, and had to be replaced. The rotor part was bad. The E-brake section looked brand new.

Luckily I have those original stonecrusher brakepads, and the mechanic was able to dress them up, and I still have better than 50% left.

 

post-41806-1205842229_thumb.jpg

We only see that on vehicles from back east...still makes me wonder why you guys live in the snow. We can only imagine working on cars with all that rust going on must be murder. :jester:

Posted
Quote

original stonecrusher brakepads

Quote

I don't recognize the name ??? 50% ???

 

How many miles on your rig?

 

Did you for get to "tip" the inspector this time? :D

Thus the non-pass situation.

There is another thread that the guys were talking about rotors and pad wear, in it, one fellow had 60K on his and the pads were still in good shape.

I use the term "stonecrusher" as slang. Ever hear of Borg Warner T-10 Trannys? They were called stonecrushers because of their indestructability.

50% means I still have that or slighty better left before I need to change pads.

 

31,563

 

That would of been a big tip. Look a little closer at the rotor on the right, notice the cracks?

I've been accused of running 'em into the ground, :uhoh: ... :jester: but even I won't take that chance.

It's easy to go, but you better make sure you can stop!... :mad:

Posted
We only see that on vehicles from back east...still makes me wonder why you guys live in the snow. We can only imagine working on cars with all that rust going on must be murder. :jester:

Have you heard of any updates on when Simi valley is to become "The Gulf of California"

You can check here; http://earthquake.usgs.gov/regional/neic/

 

:uhoh:

Posted

As much as it rains here in the Pacific Northwest, we typically don't see a lot of rus on brake rotors or suspension components t. Even in areas where it snows a lot, there is not much rust on bare metal components like rotors. Probably due to the use of calcium chloride for ice remobal instead of salt.

 

The pads on my 99 Silverado are at 50% after 74K and the rotors are still smooth with noting more than just some surface rust.

 

We don't have vehicle inspections either, so fixing problems are up to the owner or his/her favorite shop. We can even get our tabs online or just by mailing in a card.

 

BTW, the term use for those early trannies was "Rockcrusher" and it applied to the GM-produced Muncie M-22 close-ratio transmission that came in the early GM muscle cars. The Borg-Warner T-10 and Super T-10 never had that nickname.

Posted
Had my truck inspected yesterday, and after 5 years it finally cost more than the stickers for inspection, and emissions.

 

The rear rotors with the integral emergency/parking brake housing were shot, and had to be replaced. The rotor part was bad. The E-brake section looked brand new.

Luckily I have those original stonecrusher brakepads, and the mechanic was able to dress them up, and I still have better than 50% left.

 

post-41806-1205842229_thumb.jpg

 

I actually had holes on the inboard side of my factory rear rotors in the swept area at 3 yrs and 55k miles. The Brembo OE replacement rotors are holding up much better. The factory rotors on a German car I own looked perfect aside from the lip from wear after 5 years. Since they both see the same conditions, I think there is a difference in the rotor quality.

Posted
there is not much rust on bare metal components like rotors. Probably due to the use of calcium chloride for ice remobal instead of salt.

Not only the salt, but the local municipalities, insist on leaving a pile at the intersections so other vehicles will pick up and spread it.

BTW, the term use for those early trannies was "Rockcrusher" and it applied to the GM-produced Muncie M-22 close-ratio transmission that came in the early GM muscle cars. The Borg-Warner T-10 and Super T-10 never had that nickname.
I stand corrected...close, but no cigar

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn
    • It is possible to add your own 12v outlet to your truck.  Check out this video:   I verified via GM Upfitters that pin 31 is the same on the 1500 trucks.  The wire is GM part number 84779405.   You can get the GM 12v outlet from Amazon  https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Accessory-Receptacle-25774623-13549530/dp/B0F1H9YRGF EWAY 12 Volt Power Adapter for GM   https://www.amazon.com/EWAY-Chevrolet-Silverado-Cigarette-Ignition/dp/B0915RRW6Q/ref=sr_1_1?   I just haven't figured out a good place to put the 12v outlet in my truck.   Some people are getting USB-C to 12V adapters  https://www.amazon.com/WYMECT-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket-Adapter/dp/B0F87WNQKB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa? Not sure if they provide the correct amperage that a device like a tire inflator would need.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...