Jump to content

F150 To A 1500?


Recommended Posts

Posted

Currently, I have a 2006 F150 CC LB with the 5.4 in it and 25000+ miles on it. With gas prices where they are, could I save some money by downsizing to a 2008 1500 extcab with the 4.8l? I have gone through the search mode and it shows some good numbers on mpg. How about towing? I tow a 19ft Chaparral about 8-10 times a year going to a local lake and Havasu a couple times. Can the 1500 do a good job with weight? The specs say it can haul it but might IMO struggle on some climbs. It will be a 2wd. I appreciate the unput and will continue to use the archives. Thanks

Posted

Do some math. Will the gas savings really be enough to offset the cost of trading trucks? I doubt it. If you are only doing this for mpg reasons, it's probably best to keep your truck.

Posted

I'd take the 5.3 over the 4.8 if mileage is your concern. My 08 Silverado Ext Cab Z71 4x4 gets 21 mpg at 60 mph and about 17-18 mpg at 70-75 mph. I figure the 4.8 would have to work harder to keep these speeds so it would be worse on fuel. That's just my opinion. VMax has a point though. It may end up costing you more just to switch trucks than the fuel savings would total.

Posted

It's just a simple calculation. I don't know you mileages now, but lets say you get 15 now and would get 20 with the new truck.

 

15 mpg @ $3.40 / gal fuel = $0.23 / mi

20 mpg @ $3.40 / gal fuel = $0.17 / mi

 

That is a savings of $0.06 per mile. Say you can get into a new truck for $25,000.

 

$25,000 / ($0.06 / mi) = 416,667 miles.

 

That is the point where the mileage pays for itself. Even if you bought a Hybrid Prius that supposedly gets 60 mpg it takes over 150,000 miles to break even.

 

Cliff notes - mileage is not a reason to buy a vehicle. :chevy:

Posted

It's pointless, you would probably end up losing money, trading your truck will not be beneficial. If anything just sell it on the side and then go out and purchase the new truck, but wait till the new 6-Speed trucks come out. 5.3 w/ 6spd should get even better mileage than the current trucks.

Posted

How can you figure that going from an F150 to a GM fullsize is downsizing? Same class of vehicle, very similar engine sizing, similar MPG ratings... (all by design) Both are good vehicles.

 

You are not going to save any real money in the process...

 

What's the actual point?

Posted
How can you figure that going from an F150 to a GM fullsize is downsizing? Same class of vehicle, very similar engine sizing, similar MPG ratings... (all by design) Both are good vehicles.

 

You are not going to save any real money in the process...

 

What's the actual point?

 

He think he just meant getting a smaller motor...

Posted
It's pointless, you would probably end up losing money, trading your truck will not be beneficial. If anything just sell it on the side and then go out and purchase the new truck, but wait till the new 6-Speed trucks come out. 5.3 w/ 6spd should get even better mileage than the current trucks.

 

 

The 6 speed will do a lot for the truck but fuel efficiency isn't one of them.

Posted

I believe that the 5.3 is actaully rated for better fuel economy then the 4.8.

 

If your only looking to buy a different truck to save some money, then it doesnt make sense to buy something different then you have now. If you are looking to get a different truck anyways, and are trying to decide between a ford and a gm product, you will find a little better mileage with a gm. Take a look at what options you want, compare prices, and take both trucks for a test drive.

Posted
It's just a simple calculation. I don't know you mileages now, but lets say you get 15 now and would get 20 with the new truck.

 

15 mpg @ $3.40 / gal fuel = $0.23 / mi

20 mpg @ $3.40 / gal fuel = $0.17 / mi

 

That is a savings of $0.06 per mile. Say you can get into a new truck for $25,000.

 

$25,000 / ($0.06 / mi) = 416,667 miles.

 

That is the point where the mileage pays for itself. Even if you bought a Hybrid Prius that supposedly gets 60 mpg it takes over 150,000 miles to break even.

 

Cliff notes - mileage is not a reason to buy a vehicle. :chevy:

 

 

rerun those for $4 and $5 per gallon, that's where we are headed...

Posted

The idea was getting into a truck with a smaller engine and a smaller truck to meet my needs. The POINT was to ask for some opinions and maybe look at it from a different angle. A little more number jumbling should/will show which way is better for the pocket book. Thanks for the cliff note. Very true. Maybe the Ford will be around for a while. Thank you.

Posted
The idea was getting into a truck with a smaller engine and a smaller truck to meet my needs. The POINT was to ask for some opinions and maybe look at it from a different angle. A little more number jumbling should/will show which way is better for the pocket book. Thanks for the cliff note. Very true. Maybe the Ford will be around for a while. Thank you.

Our meaning was really just that it won't benefit you much to make a change based on fuel economy. Both trucks are good vehicles. We weren't trying to beat you up.

 

Of course we recommend a GM truck! :chevy:

Posted
It's just a simple calculation. I don't know you mileages now, but lets say you get 15 now and would get 20 with the new truck.

 

15 mpg @ $3.40 / gal fuel = $0.23 / mi

20 mpg @ $3.40 / gal fuel = $0.17 / mi

 

That is a savings of $0.06 per mile. Say you can get into a new truck for $25,000.

 

$25,000 / ($0.06 / mi) = 416,667 miles.

 

That is the point where the mileage pays for itself. Even if you bought a Hybrid Prius that supposedly gets 60 mpg it takes over 150,000 miles to break even.

 

Cliff notes - mileage is not a reason to buy a vehicle. :chevy:

I agree the math doesn't work. In fairness though, trading an '06 CC with 25,000 miles for a slightly used, or new, Silverado ext cab shouldn't set him back $25,000.

-Jay

Posted

I guess if you want to "upgrade" to a GM truck you'll benefit from better mileage, but I think the cost of trading wouldn't make it worth while.

:)

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No doubt... But, as someone who doesn't pay for his services, but who has provided a few views/clicks on his Youtube platform, the data around the Mobil oil testing I think does have some value including to "freeloaders" like me.   A lot of what he's doing is likely showing the OE's work in their oil selection, something that many of us had kind of assumed was true all along, a good balance of both excellent protection and efficiency.
    • Lake Speed is drumming up business for his company just by being in the spot-light so he has a vested interest in stoking the 0W-20 fire.  IMO  
    • I knew when I bought my truck that it had off road hill decent or craw control or whatever they call it and rolled my eyes at that but it gets throw on with other options my truck has, I just never had a heads up if the highway speed regular cruise setting had anything to do with the brakes and that took me by surprise. If you've ever been to the top of Pikes Peak and watched those ahead of you on the way down with their brake lights on constantly, one can guess they are probably not gearing down or not enough anyway if their vehicle will allow and a good reason their is a brake check spot part way down where they use an infra red heat gun to check how hot ones brakes are front and rear.    Your right that once one gets out of the front range by Denver and I've not been on that stretch of 285 between Denver and Fairplay myself but I know its high and Fairplay at 10000 feet, Buena Vista at 8000, it drops a bit from there but then your going back up and over the 11000 pass and Durango is at 6500 . So yes your definitely right that 6500 and a lot higher is the theme of going anywhere out in that direction from Denver but hey, the down hill sections give fantastic fuel mileage !.    I don't even look at the fuel pumps for what premium costs here, since I live on a farm and up to this point get fuel delivered I am rarely in front of a fuel pump and when I am, I am often using card lock bulk fuel stations so it tells me what the price is AFTER I buy the fuel. Looking up on gas buddy and converting to US gallons but in Canadian dollars, regular on average of the prices listed was around 5.95 and premium is around 7.00 . That was one reason I did not go for the 6.2 half ton aside from its lack of carrying/towing if one was going by the rule of using premium fuel and until recently one could only buy regular farm gas if playing the few cents off game for farm dyed fuel for a "farm licensed pickup". But yes I hear you on the fuel price difference and like the diesel theme with it often being more expensive then gas it doesn't have quite the charm to it either as it once did although right now here for some reason the price of diesel has come down more so its now inline with the price of regular gas. 
    • I agree with this assessment. As you know I’m testing longevity with vehicles for the first time. I have a few vehicles I passed to kids and grandkids. We’re all past 100K miles some approaching 170K. I’m the only one doing 5k oil changes. The rest whatever the minder says. I’m the only one doing frequent transmission service. My odyssey the trip vehicle at 200K will be finished as a trip vehicle. I recently changed to high mileage oil, Valvoline. I can’t get past the fact that all manufacturers want to claim long service life. I just don’t make sense that they would go with low weight oil for mileage. While sacrificing longevity.
    • There's absolutely a mountain of profit in catering to the "I do my own research" crowd, people who are certain they know better. And I don't mean there isn't data to support that 0w40 produces less wear product than 0w20 in an engine like the 3.0 Duramax, that only feeds them the assurance they need. Again, my whole thing with oil selection is, sure, 0w40 or 0w30 produces less wear product. Are we talking the difference between the engine lasting only 100k versus 200k? Or are we talking more like, if the engine will already go 350k on a good 0w20 regimen recommended by the OE, is using 0w40 going to get us to 355k, assuming we can even get the rest of the truck to last that long, meanwhile sacrificing the first 5y, 100k in powertrain warranty. The answer isn't easy, there are tradeoffs.   I willfully use 0w20 Dexos D for this reason, knowing that a 0w40 will produce slightly less wear. I don't believe the delta in wear product is meaningful over the lifetime of the engine, and I place much more importance on driving style and overall feeding and care of the engine as a whole. It's the mentality that someone can abstain from alcohol their whole life which is an amazing boost to health by itself, theoretically. But if they're sedentary, that lifestyle choice will most likely kill them young despite their other, concerted efforts. Maybe someone doesn't drink AND they are the perfect picture of health and activity AND they use 0w40 AND they treat their engine perfectly. If living until 130 years is the goal, sure, do that. But it's going to be a really old truck falling apart around a good engine for that last 30 years, without a doubt.   I watched Demonworks' other video on the 100k+ 3.0 Duramax that had dealer 0w20 changes on what appears to be OLM-prescribed intervals (8-10k).   The QR codes are still present and readable on the main bearings. That's how little wear it has.   That's not proof that anyone else should stick to 0w20, but it's confirmation, for me, that 0w20 is perfectly acceptable to use in these engines.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...