What Hitch Ball And Ball Mount To Buy?

[timmerk]

Is there a "standard" hitch ball size (I know there are at least 3 different measurements that can change to change the 'size' of it), and "standard" ball mount size for a 08 GMC Sierra? I'm renting a tencher and they don't know what trailer they will give me, and also will need to rent a Uhaul trailer soon, and don't want to have to buy another ball mount.

 

Also, what are the best brands of hitch balls and ball mounts do you guys recommend?

 

Thanks!

[asilverblazer]

2" With the least rise/drop. Reese is most commonly available at Wal-mart. 20.00 for the hitch 6.00 for the ball. Give or take. I'd suggest the interlock style, so that you can change the ball size easily. From 2 5/16" to 2" to 1 7/8", meaning buy 3 balls and one hitch. And you'll have the equipment to tow any bumper pull trailer. Plus if you buy a wiring plug adapter, like a seven to six, with four flat on the side, lights will work too.

[csheatz]

2" With the least rise/drop. Reese is most commonly available at Wal-mart. 20.00 for the hitch 6.00 for the ball. Give or take. I'd suggest the interlock style, so that you can change the ball size easily. From 2 5/16" to 2" to 1 7/8", meaning buy 3 balls and one hitch. And you'll have the equipment to tow any bumper pull trailer. Plus if you buy a wiring plug adapter, like a seven to six, with four flat on the side, lights will work too.

 

+1

[timmerk]

Thanks for the replies! Is Reese a good brand, or would you say Masterlock is better? I saw both at Walmart today.

[Mikeee]

I've always had just the 2" ball.

If the trailer hitch needed the bigger ball, then it was too big for what I was towing with.

Isn't the 1-7/8 used of those tiny utility trailers?

 

Just because the hitch fits the ball does not always mean that the tow combination is safe.

[jrrod2004]

Preferential, I prefer master

[asilverblazer]

Was there a difference? If not, I'd go cheapest. Not like I've ever seen or heard of one failing.

[coltbean]

I've got this. This is truck #4 that it has been on and I've hauled plenty of trailers and ski boats with bo problems.Convert a ball

[c4cruiser]

Reese is a good brand for a ball mount and ball. They are available nearly everywhere auto parts are sold.

 

For the mount, you really need to figure out how much of a "drop" the coupler should be. You have probably seen couplers raning in drop from none to 6" or even more. Choosing the proper size depends on the height of the hitch on your truck to the ground and the height of the trailer coupler to the ground when the trailer frame is loaded and level. Too little drop and the back of the trailer can drag on the ground; too much drop and you can have too much weight on the trailer tongue if you don't load the trailer properly.

 

Is your truck 2WD or 4WD?? A 2WD truck can probably use a 2" drop, while a 4x4 would be better with a 4" drop coupler. Couplers may also have different size holes in them for the htich ball shaft. Some balls come with sleeves, some you have to match to the coupler. I use a 4" drop mount for my car trailer when towing with my 08 Silverado 4x4. By the time I load the car, the weight on the hitch gets both the trailer and the truck level.

 

A 2" ball is pretty much standard for Class III and IV hitches. When you attach the ball to the coupler, you want the nut very tight. While some places sell long combination or box-end wrenches to tighten the nuts, the best thing to do it to stop by a auto repair shop and ask if they would install the ball on the coupler and tighten the nut with an impact wrench. You are looking at around 150 ft-lbs of torque here and that can be hard to do if you don't have a vise or a really long wrench.

 

Both the coupler and the ball will have a maximum trailer weight stamped on them. You want to get both coupler and ball that meet or exceed the rating on the receiver. This would be 5000 lbs in the case of the curremt trucks.

 

With renting trailers, U-Haul and others have their trailers set up for 2" Balls. Some couplers are adjustable for any of the sizes.

 

Getting a 7-pin to 4-pin adapter is a good suggestion, That saves having places like U-haul charge you extra for assorted wiring adapters to get their off-the-wall trailer wiring setups to work on your truck.

 

And don't foget the pin to hold the mount into the receiver, For occasional towing the pin with the bend on one end and the clip n the other works fine. No need for a locking pin unless you intend to leave a trailer hooked up overnight.

[timmerk]

My truck is 4WD, and based on how high the hitch is off the ground, I think I will need to go with the 4" drop to be more "standard". Does anyone know what weight the hitch and ball mount can handle vertically, in case the mount is too low?

 

Also, I like both Reese's Interlock system and Masterlock's "One-Tool" system. The only advantage I see in Masterlock ball mounts is this product (image):

 

http://images.netshops.com/mgen/master:MLC017.jpg

 

That would save me from having to buy a separate locking pin, and it's one less part to carry around when not in use. Anyone have experience with these? Do the pins stick out enough when in "locked" mode?

 

Thanks again for all the replies!

[Mikeee]

... When you attach the ball to the coupler, you want the nut very tight. While some places sell long combination or box-end wrenches to tighten the nuts, the best thing to do it to stop by a auto repair shop and ask if they would install the ball on the coupler and tighten the nut with an impact wrench. You are looking at around 150 ft-lbs of torque here and that can be hard to do if you don't have a vise or a really long wrench....

I just insert the hitch into the receiver rotated 90* then stand on the wrench. Should be more than enough "foot pounds".