2008 Silverado Audio

Dukers · November 4, 2008

I'm looking to replace my audio in my 2008 Silverado, and I have some questions for the Audio/Video & Electronics Forum...

1. How do I know that a deck is OnStar ready?

2. Don't I need another cable adapter for OnStar if I get an aftermarket stereo?

3. I'm looking for an Alpine deck, so could you tell me which ones (featured on Crutchfield) are OnStar compatible?

4. I do not have navigation, so if anyone has replaced their stereo with an aftermarket one and you do not have the Nav, could you tell me where it went in the dashboard? pics would be helpful too.

Sorry if I sound annoying or demanding, I'm just trying to figure out exactly what I need and learn and do as much research as I can to help me out with this purchase / installation. Thanks.

DofD · November 4, 2008

I'm looking to replace my audio in my 2008 Silverado, and I have some questions for the Audio/Video & Electronics Forum...

What audio package did your truck come with? Does it have the Bose Premium package?

1. How do I know that a deck is OnStar ready?

OnStar systems typically integrate with the OEM amplifier and not the head unit.

2. Don't I need another cable adapter for OnStar if I get an aftermarket stereo?

Yes, you will need an adapter harness kit if you replace the head unit and OEM amplifier.

3. I'm looking for an Alpine deck, so could you tell me which ones (featured on Crutchfield) are OnStar compatible?

None.

4. I do not have navigation, so if anyone has replaced their stereo with an aftermarket one and you do not have the Nav, could you tell me where it went in the dashboard? pics would be helpful too.

It would replace the stock head unit in that location. You will need a mounting adapter to get the after market head unit to fit properly.

Sorry if I sound annoying or demanding, I'm just trying to figure out exactly what I need and learn and do as much research as I can to help me out with this purchase / installation. Thanks.

What you need to do and to replace depends on a few things. Here are the typical questions that will dictate what is needed and what will need to be done.

- Does your truck have the Bose system?

- Do you want replace the head unit?

- Do you want replace the OEM amplifier?

- Do you want to replace the stock speakers?

Dukers · November 4, 2008

I'm looking to replace my audio in my 2008 Silverado, and I have some questions for the Audio/Video & Electronics Forum...

What audio package did your truck come with? Does it have the Bose Premium package?

No, I'm 99% sure it does not..

1. How do I know that a deck is OnStar ready?

OnStar systems typically integrate with the OEM amplifier and not the head unit.

So any deck would do fine...?

2. Don't I need another cable adapter for OnStar if I get an aftermarket stereo?

Yes, you will need an adapter harness kit if you replace the head unit and OEM amplifier.

3. I'm looking for an Alpine deck, so could you tell me which ones (featured on Crutchfield) are OnStar compatible?

None.

So if I get a new deck I will not be able to use OnStar?

4. I do not have navigation, so if anyone has replaced their stereo with an aftermarket one and you do not have the Nav, could you tell me where it went in the dashboard? pics would be helpful too.

It would replace the stock head unit in that location. You will need a mounting adapter to get the after market head unit to fit properly.

Okay. So if i replace the stock head unit in that location, then will there still be power to the A/C Controls and stuff?

Sorry if I sound annoying or demanding, I'm just trying to figure out exactly what I need and learn and do as much research as I can to help me out with this purchase / installation. Thanks.

What you need to do and to replace depends on a few things. Here are the typical questions that will dictate what is needed and what will need to be done.

- Does your truck have the Bose system?

----No

- Do you want replace the head unit?

----Idk, I still need to be able to use OnStar, and idk how benificial it would be to replace it. What are your thoughts?

- Do you want replace the OEM amplifier?

----I have an alpine amplifier (Alpine MRP-M500). Should i replace the OEM amp? Would it affect anything?

- Do you want to replace the stock speakers?

----Yeah i want to replace the stock speakers with Alpine SPS-600 or something similar.

onac255 · November 4, 2008

I think you only need a harness that will allow to use any headunit with OnStar and Steering Wheel controls (if you have them)

You do not really need an OnStar Compatible Headunit.

DofD · November 4, 2008

I'm looking to replace my audio in my 2008 Silverado, and I have some questions for the Audio/Video & Electronics Forum...

What audio package did your truck come with? Does it have the Bose Premium package?

No, I'm 99% sure it does not..

Okey Dokey. The Bose systems can complicate things a little.

1. How do I know that a deck is OnStar ready?

OnStar systems typically integrate with the OEM amplifier and not the head unit.

So any deck would do fine...?

Any deck can be made to work with OnStar with an adapter harness.

2. Don't I need another cable adapter for OnStar if I get an aftermarket stereo?

Yes, you will need an adapter harness kit if you replace the head unit and OEM amplifier.

3. I'm looking for an Alpine deck, so could you tell me which ones (featured on Crutchfield) are OnStar compatible?

None.

So if I get a new deck I will not be able to use OnStar?

You'll need the adapter harness to allow OnStar to work with a new head unit. Then it'll work fine.

4. I do not have navigation, so if anyone has replaced their stereo with an aftermarket one and you do not have the Nav, could you tell me where it went in the dashboard? pics would be helpful too.

It would replace the stock head unit in that location. You will need a mounting adapter to get the after market head unit to fit properly.

Okay. So if i replace the stock head unit in that location, then will there still be power to the A/C Controls and stuff?

Yep, the heater and A/C will still work fine. It's a separate unit. They just look like all one unit with the trim on.

Sorry if I sound annoying or demanding, I'm just trying to figure out exactly what I need and learn and do as much research as I can to help me out with this purchase / installation. Thanks.

What you need to do and to replace depends on a few things. Here are the typical questions that will dictate what is needed and what will need to be done.

- Does your truck have the Bose system?

----No

- Do you want replace the head unit?

----Idk, I still need to be able to use OnStar, and idk how benificial it would be to replace it. What are your thoughts?

- Do you want replace the OEM amplifier?

----I have an alpine amplifier (Alpine MRP-M500). Should i replace the OEM amp? Would it affect anything?

- Do you want to replace the stock speakers?

----Yeah i want to replace the stock speakers with Alpine SPS-600 or something similar.

Alrighty. So here we go...

What you'll need to remove is the stock head unit, stock amplifier, and stock speakers.

What you'll need to add is a head unit, new amplifier, new speakers, GM DIN face plate adapter for the new head unit, this harness adapter for the new head unit and to retain OnStar, and chimes LINK. You may also need an antenna adapter as the GM antenna has a smaller connector than the standard. You may also need to extend or change the speaker wiring depending on how things are mounted.

Dukers · November 5, 2008

Yeah, I went to best buy today after football practice and asked the guy there about the stuff to keep OnStar, the custom OnStar harness thing, and the dash kit.

He suggested that I get a harness to keep the onstar and door chimes (what do the door chimes sound like....?) and that I get the 99-3305 dash kit and it would fit perfectly... he also said that they have had no need to do modifications for the 6.5" speaker installations like crutchfield says there needs to be.

He also suggested that I just use one 12"... so i just want to know..

One 10"

Two 10"

One 12"

Edit: dude im just so stressed about this whole audio stuff... cuz i want to have a good system, it doesnt need to have like a million watts and a million subs.. i just want it to sound nice. I dont need the ****ing constant thumping and rattling and ghetto blaster.. i just want a system that sounds authentic and is pleasing to the ears..

So this is what im looking at..

Head Unit: Still not sure if i am going to replace it or not.. with the onstar and crap connections im stressing and stuff, and i think the only reason why I would install it would to be able to control the level of the SUBWOOFER as well as the Bass / Trebble / etc.

Speakers: I'm installing 6.5" speakers throughout the system. Should i stick with the Alpine Type-S SPS-600's or get different ones?

Amplifier: keepin it.. just not so sure where to get it mounted / installed... should I do it behind the seats?

Sub: I want one, just not sure how many, or what size to get... and then what enclosure to get. I was going to get one from subthump, but then the mounting depth says 5.5" which means that the Alpine Type-E 10" wont fit either, so I would have to find a new sub altogether..

And still the question: One 10", Two 10"s, or One 12"? I'm not looking for ghetto bass and shit, but i dont want a shitty ass OEM sub. I want a respectable one taht can bump too.

Edit 2: The Alpine Type-E 10" do fit. Mounting depth 5 3/8".. max mounting depth of the subthump boxes are 5.5"

DofD · November 5, 2008

Yeah, I went to best buy today after football practice and asked the guy there about the stuff to keep OnStar, the custom OnStar harness thing, and the dash kit.

He suggested that I get a harness to keep the onstar and door chimes (what do the door chimes sound like....?) and that I get the 99-3305 dash kit and it would fit perfectly... he also said that they have had no need to do modifications for the 6.5" speaker installations like crutchfield says there needs to be.

Start your truck and open the door and you'll hear what they sound like.

He also suggested that I just use one 12"... so i just want to know..

One 10"

Two 10"

One 12"

Don't go with the 12". It will be a mounting nightmare.

Edit: dude im just so stressed about this whole audio stuff... cuz i want to have a good system, it doesnt need to have like a million watts and a million subs.. i just want it to sound nice. I dont need the ****ing constant thumping and rattling and ghetto blaster.. i just want a system that sounds authentic and is pleasing to the ears..

Relax, no need to get stressed. Consider and plan one piece at a time. Don't let yourself get overwhelmed by all the details. The guys in Best Buy and such tend make certain assumptions, like every young person wants the maximum thump rather than sound quality.

I'll assume for the moment that you don't want to loose a bunch of room in your truck for a sub box.

Given that you want a good sounding system that just doesn't thump away (systems that all just bass and thump annoy the crap out of me, and my music isn't geared to a thump machine), my suggestion would be either one or two 10" subs in a SubThump box under the rear seat. Given the volume of the cab of your truck you don't need a big sub to get really good bass performance. You can get really good bass response with just a single 10" sub that is adjusted properly. Two 10" subs adjusted properly will give a better distribution of bass throughout the cab. Heck my home theater has only one 10" and it will rattle the windows and vibrate the couch and I have a big living room. Another point is that a 12" will not mount in a hidden way, it's just too big.

So this is what im looking at..

Head Unit: Still not sure if i am going to replace it or not.. with the onstar and crap connections im stressing and stuff, and i think the only reason why I would install it would to be able to control the level of the SUBWOOFER as well as the Bass / Trebble / etc.

Replacing the head unit isn't bad. You just need the adapter harness. Here is basically how it works. The adapter harness plugs into the stock harness and then the other side of the adapter harness plugs into the head unit. And that's pretty much it, you get to keep your OnStar, chimes, etc with a new head unit to boot. There's no weird connections to make, no weird splices to make, just plug and play.

Speakers: I'm installing 6.5" speakers throughout the system. Should i stick with the Alpine Type-S SPS-600's or get different ones?

Those Alpines should work just fine. I would check Crutchfield for what mounting adapter would be necessary. All the mounting adapter does is to allow the speaker to mount into the pre-existing speaker locations without having to phyically modify the door to make the speaker fit.

Amplifier: keepin it.. just not so sure where to get it mounted / installed... should I do it behind the seats?

Mount the subs under the rear seat in a sub box made for that area. It's plug and play that way.

Sub: I want one, just not sure how many, or what size to get... and then what enclosure to get. I was going to get one from subthump, but then the mounting depth says 5.5" which means that the Alpine Type-E 10" wont fit either, so I would have to find a new sub altogether..

And still the question: One 10", Two 10"s, or One 12"? I'm not looking for ghetto bass and shit, but i dont want a shitty ass OEM sub. I want a respectable one taht can bump too.

Mostly see my above note. You'll get lots of bump out of two 10"s. You may need a new sub to mount under the rear seats in a sub thump box since space is tight. The only real choice with the sub you have or with a bigger sub would be to have a sub box sitting on the back floor or doing extensive mods and fab work to mount a big sub. As for mounting the amp, to the rear cab wall is where they go.

That's the problem with subs in a truck, the places to cleanly mount them are limited. Of course in some of the really custom trucks, they have really wicked custom sub boxes, but they require a lot of custom fabrication, lots of amp power, and lots of money.

Another option, a little pricey though, is a Stealth Box (10" sub) in the front, replacing the stock sub, and a single 10" SubThump under the rear seat. This will give good bass response in both the front and back.

If it were me, this is what I would do. I would go with two 10" subs in a SubThump under the rear seat. It'll give you great bass and you'll be able to bump it up when you want to. Though you'll need to get new subs. I don't really see a good solution with the sub you have as it's just too deep.

Car audio is a big field with nearly endless options. Everyone will have a different opinion. So always keep in mind what YOU want out of it, not what someone says you should want out of it.

I've seen a few discussions get really heated when it comes to car audio layouts, what pieces to use, where to position things, how to create the best sound fields, etc.

For example in my new Tahoe I'm ugrading the stock system, I'm adding BA Pro60 component speakers in the 4 doors with the fronts having the tweeters off axis in the stock tweeter locations but positioned differently (as I don't like bouncing the sound off the windshield), and the rears having the tweeters on axis. I'm putting a singe 10" sub StealthBox under the console to replace the stock sub. The D column speakers, I'm not quite sure yet as I need to check spacing for the size of speaker I can mount there (truck hasn't arrived yet). The I'm mounting the amps, signal processor, power/ground distribution blocks, video controller, etc under the second row seats. Now this is the set up I like and would sound really good too, and think will work well for me and preserves all the storage space. But the installers I've talked to really dislike this setup and have really tried to convince me I should do custom pods for the doors and tweeters, add some mid bass speakers in custom pods, and a different sub setup in the rear. I don't doubt that such a system would sound great, but it's overkill for me and with my family in the truck I can't crank it up. Not to mention I would start to loose storage space in the back for mounting stuff. Another goal is that I didn't want a bunch of stuff visible as it makes a vehicle more of a target for persons of nefarious intent. I guess the rambling point I guess I'm trying to get to here is that you pretty much know what you want so go with it. What you've got planned in your head will sound good.

Dukers · November 5, 2008

Yeah, I went to best buy today after football practice and asked the guy there about the stuff to keep OnStar, the custom OnStar harness thing, and the dash kit.

He suggested that I get a harness to keep the onstar and door chimes (what do the door chimes sound like....?) and that I get the 99-3305 dash kit and it would fit perfectly... he also said that they have had no need to do modifications for the 6.5" speaker installations like crutchfield says there needs to be.

Start your truck and open the door and you'll hear what they sound like.

He also suggested that I just use one 12"... so i just want to know..

One 10"

Two 10"

One 12"

Don't go with the 12". It will be a mounting nightmare.

Edit: dude im just so stressed about this whole audio stuff... cuz i want to have a good system, it doesnt need to have like a million watts and a million subs.. i just want it to sound nice. I dont need the ****ing constant thumping and rattling and ghetto blaster.. i just want a system that sounds authentic and is pleasing to the ears..

Relax, no need to get stressed. Consider and plan one piece at a time. Don't let yourself get overwhelmed by all the details. The guys in Best Buy and such tend make certain assumptions, like every young person wants the maximum thump rather than sound quality.

I'll assume for the moment that you don't want to loose a bunch of room in your truck for a sub box.

Given that you want a good sounding system that just doesn't thump away (systems that all just bass and thump annoy the crap out of me, and my music isn't geared to a thump machine), my suggestion would be either one or two 10" subs in a SubThump box under the rear seat. Given the volume of the cab of your truck you don't need a big sub to get really good bass performance. You can get really good bass response with just a single 10" sub that is adjusted properly. Two 10" subs adjusted properly will give a better distribution of bass throughout the cab. Heck my home theater has only one 10" and it will rattle the windows and vibrate the couch and I have a big living room. Another point is that a 12" will not mount in a hidden way, it's just too big.

So this is what im looking at..

Head Unit: Still not sure if i am going to replace it or not.. with the onstar and crap connections im stressing and stuff, and i think the only reason why I would install it would to be able to control the level of the SUBWOOFER as well as the Bass / Trebble / etc.

Replacing the head unit isn't bad. You just need the adapter harness. Here is basically how it works. The adapter harness plugs into the stock harness and then the other side of the adapter harness plugs into the head unit. And that's pretty much it, you get to keep your OnStar, chimes, etc with a new head unit to boot. There's no weird connections to make, no weird splices to make, just plug and play.

Speakers: I'm installing 6.5" speakers throughout the system. Should i stick with the Alpine Type-S SPS-600's or get different ones?

Those Alpines should work just fine. I would check Crutchfield for what mounting adapter would be necessary. All the mounting adapter does is to allow the speaker to mount into the pre-existing speaker locations without having to phyically modify the door to make the speaker fit.

Amplifier: keepin it.. just not so sure where to get it mounted / installed... should I do it behind the seats?

Mount the subs under the rear seat in a sub box made for that area. It's plug and play that way.

Sub: I want one, just not sure how many, or what size to get... and then what enclosure to get. I was going to get one from subthump, but then the mounting depth says 5.5" which means that the Alpine Type-E 10" wont fit either, so I would have to find a new sub altogether..

And still the question: One 10", Two 10"s, or One 12"? I'm not looking for ghetto bass and shit, but i dont want a shitty ass OEM sub. I want a respectable one taht can bump too.

Mostly see my above note. You'll get lots of bump out of two 10"s. You may need a new sub to mount under the rear seats in a sub thump box since space is tight. The only real choice with the sub you have or with a bigger sub would be to have a sub box sitting on the back floor or doing extensive mods and fab work to mount a big sub. As for mounting the amp, to the rear cab wall is where they go.

That's the problem with subs in a truck, the places to cleanly mount them are limited. Of course in some of the really custom trucks, they have really wicked custom sub boxes, but they require a lot of custom fabrication, lots of amp power, and lots of money.

Another option, a little pricey though, is a Stealth Box (10" sub) in the front, replacing the stock sub, and a single 10" SubThump under the rear seat. This will give good bass response in both the front and back.

If it were me, this is what I would do. I would go with two 10" subs in a SubThump under the rear seat. It'll give you great bass and you'll be able to bump it up when you want to. Though you'll need to get new subs. I don't really see a good solution with the sub you have as it's just too deep.

Car audio is a big field with nearly endless options. Everyone will have a different opinion. So always keep in mind what YOU want out of it, not what someone says you should want out of it.

I've seen a few discussions get really heated when it comes to car audio layouts, what pieces to use, where to position things, how to create the best sound fields, etc.

For example in my new Tahoe I'm ugrading the stock system, I'm adding BA Pro60 component speakers in the 4 doors with the fronts having the tweeters off axis in the stock tweeter locations but positioned differently (as I don't like bouncing the sound off the windshield), and the rears having the tweeters on axis. I'm putting a singe 10" sub StealthBox under the console to replace the stock sub. The D column speakers, I'm not quite sure yet as I need to check spacing for the size of speaker I can mount there (truck hasn't arrived yet). The I'm mounting the amps, signal processor, power/ground distribution blocks, video controller, etc under the second row seats. Now this is the set up I like and would sound really good too, and think will work well for me and preserves all the storage space. But the installers I've talked to really dislike this setup and have really tried to convince me I should do custom pods for the doors and tweeters, add some mid bass speakers in custom pods, and a different sub setup in the rear. I don't doubt that such a system would sound great, but it's overkill for me and with my family in the truck I can't crank it up. Not to mention I would start to loose storage space in the back for mounting stuff. Another goal is that I didn't want a bunch of stuff visible as it makes a vehicle more of a target for persons of nefarious intent. I guess the rambling point I guess I'm trying to get to here is that you pretty much know what you want so go with it. What you've got planned in your head will sound good.

If you don't mind I'd like to talk to you on the phone one day, since you are very knowledgeable about car audio and sometimes posting in the forums can be confusing and whatnot.

Here's what I'm probably going to do, but I still have questions.

Head Unit: Leave the OEM.. If I leave the OEM Head Unit, will i still be able to adjust the power of the Subwoofer as well as the bass/treble/etc? (i doubt it, but worth asking..) like is there a dial on the subwoofer? (i doubt it, but its worth asking.. again.) And My final note is I dont think I'll need that much subwoofer boomboom since it'll be closer to me (the other one was in the trunk in the accord) and when I had the 12" i noticed that sometimes I wanted to turn it down and other times it sounded pretty good with the nice bass, but it was more than necessary IMHO.

Speakers: Going to stick with the Apline Type-S SPS600 6.5" (two pairs of course, for front and back) (Looking on eBay and such for good prices, any recommendations - found $65 per pair with free shipping)

Sub - Going to get one Alpine SWE-1043 10" sub.. but I have a question. Will it fit completely in the single downfire box on SubThump? Is there enough cubic space in there for it to work effectively and the way it's supposed to? Help me out here with the sealed and cubic centimeters and stuff, idk anything about that...

Amplifier - Keeping the same and getting it mounted behind the seats.

thats about it this time, haha thanks a lot, as always!

stadt11 · November 5, 2008

Speakers: Going to stick with the Apline Type-S SPS600 6.5"

I agree, I'll be putting in Alpine SPS-600's & SPS-600c's in my truck next spring - Crutchfield highly recommended these

Sub - Going to get one Alpine SWE-1043 10" sub.. but I have a question. Will it fit completely in the single downfire box on SubThump? Is there enough cubic space in there for it to work effectively and the way it's supposed to?

I don't think that sub would work >> http://www.crutchfield.com/S-gQ8D9IQTKuJ/A...E1043&tp=13 - the box is only 0.65 cu ft and that sub requires 0.75-1.00 cu ft.

Are you set on Alpine subs? If not, I can suggest a few others.

Amplifier - Keeping the same and getting it mounted behind the seats.

I'd stick with that amp, I'm getting a MRP-F300 or F600 when I upgrade my system, you'll be fine.

Dukers · November 5, 2008

Speakers: Going to stick with the Apline Type-S SPS600 6.5"

I agree, I'll be putting in Alpine SPS-600's & SPS-600c's in my truck next spring - Crutchfield highly recommended these

Sub - Going to get one Alpine SWE-1043 10" sub.. but I have a question. Will it fit completely in the single downfire box on SubThump? Is there enough cubic space in there for it to work effectively and the way it's supposed to?

I don't think that sub would work >> http://www.crutchfield.com/S-gQ8D9IQTKuJ/A...E1043&tp=13 - the box is only 0.65 cu ft and that sub requires 0.75-1.00 cu ft.

Are you set on Alpine subs? If not, I can suggest a few others.

Amplifier - Keeping the same and getting it mounted behind the seats.

I'd stick with that amp, I'm getting a MRP-F300 or F600 when I upgrade my system, you'll be fine.

yeah that was one of my questions, if there was enough space and stuff..

can you suggest some subs for me? I'd really like to stick with alpine but idk if that's going to work.

asilverblazer · November 5, 2008

Aftermarket head units, do not always independently control the sub woofers. I liked the way 2 10" subs sounded in my truck. I had the amp mounted under the middle rear seat with a sub on each side. I did custom make my enclosure though. Adding the aftermarket head unit is really not that hard with the wiring harness to keep Onstar. The thing I would be more concerned with adding an aftermarket head unit would be looks.

Motohead309 · November 5, 2008

Speakers: Going to stick with the Apline Type-S SPS600 6.5"

I agree, I'll be putting in Alpine SPS-600's & SPS-600c's in my truck next spring - Crutchfield highly recommended these

Sub - Going to get one Alpine SWE-1043 10" sub.. but I have a question. Will it fit completely in the single downfire box on SubThump? Is there enough cubic space in there for it to work effectively and the way it's supposed to?

I don't think that sub would work >> http://www.crutchfield.com/S-gQ8D9IQTKuJ/A...E1043&tp=13 - the box is only 0.65 cu ft and that sub requires 0.75-1.00 cu ft.

Are you set on Alpine subs? If not, I can suggest a few others.

Amplifier - Keeping the same and getting it mounted behind the seats.

I'd stick with that amp, I'm getting a MRP-F300 or F600 when I upgrade my system, you'll be fine.

yeah that was one of my questions, if there was enough space and stuff..

can you suggest some subs for me? I'd really like to stick with alpine but idk if that's going to work.

I just got my system all set up; I kept my OEM HU & amp & sub in the center console. I just had to buy the adapters to do this. I wanted to have a separate bass volume so I also purchased the LC-1. Both the adapter and LC-1 are found out: http://pac-audio.com and I bought them on Amazon. I don't want to give exact links as your truck may be different because my truck is an 05' Silverado.

I went with a box that holds two 10" subs from subthump and I must say I do like it! The box is very high quality and I there is a place in between them to mount the amp. I went with a pair of Rockford Fosgate 10" subs (P1s810) I bought the 8 Ohm and then wired them in paralell so the amp sees a 4 Ohm load when I bridge it. I have a pair of 12" Rockford's in my GMC and they are still in great shape, just older (7-8 years) so I knew the quality. Plus, they don't require as much air space as the Kicker's I was looking at. I'm very happy with them, nice sound for both rock & club music. When I was looking I found a pair of 4 Ohm Rockford's on Crutchfield's site for $99. If you have am amp that is stable down to two Ohm, that would be a great deal.

BTW, stadt11 thanks for the tips and here are some pics of everything installed:

Motohead309 · November 5, 2008

Speakers: Going to stick with the Apline Type-S SPS600 6.5"

I agree, I'll be putting in Alpine SPS-600's & SPS-600c's in my truck next spring - Crutchfield highly recommended these

Sub - Going to get one Alpine SWE-1043 10" sub.. but I have a question. Will it fit completely in the single downfire box on SubThump? Is there enough cubic space in there for it to work effectively and the way it's supposed to?

I don't think that sub would work >> http://www.crutchfield.com/S-gQ8D9IQTKuJ/A...E1043&tp=13 - the box is only 0.65 cu ft and that sub requires 0.75-1.00 cu ft.

Are you set on Alpine subs? If not, I can suggest a few others.

Amplifier - Keeping the same and getting it mounted behind the seats.

I'd stick with that amp, I'm getting a MRP-F300 or F600 when I upgrade my system, you'll be fine.

yeah that was one of my questions, if there was enough space and stuff..

can you suggest some subs for me? I'd really like to stick with alpine but idk if that's going to work.

I just got my system all set up; I kept my OEM HU & amp & sub in the center console. I just had to buy the adapters to do this. I wanted to have a separate bass volume so I also purchased the LC-1. Both the adapter and LC-1 are found out: http://pac-audio.com and I bought them on Amazon. I don't want to give exact links as your truck may be different because my truck is an 05' Silverado.

I went with a box that holds two 10" subs from subthump and I must say I do like it! The box is very high quality and I there is a place in between them to mount the amp. I went with a pair of Rockford Fosgate 10" subs (P1s810) I bought the 8 Ohm and then wired them in paralell so the amp sees a 4 Ohm load when I bridge it. I have a pair of 12" Rockford's in my GMC and they are still in great shape, just older (7-8 years) so I knew the quality. Plus, they don't require as much air space as the Kicker's I was looking at. I'm very happy with them, nice sound for both rock & club music. When I was looking I found a pair of 4 Ohm Rockford's on Crutchfield's site for $99. If you have am amp that is stable down to two Ohm, that would be a great deal.

BTW, stadt11 thanks for the tips and here are some pics of everything installed:

asilverblazer · November 5, 2008

i LIKE THAT SUBTHUMP BOX, HOPE THEY HAVE THEM FOR THE 07'S.

RRRRGH, CRAZY CAPS.

Dukers · November 5, 2008

Aftermarket head units, do not always independently control the sub woofers. I liked the way 2 10" subs sounded in my truck. I had the amp mounted under the middle rear seat with a sub on each side. I did custom make my enclosure though. Adding the aftermarket head unit is really not that hard with the wiring harness to keep Onstar. The thing I would be more concerned with adding an aftermarket head unit would be looks.

yeah, i dont think im going to replace the head unit