Jump to content

2003 Sierra Bcm Issue

rkmeekins

By rkmeekins
in Ask A GM Technician

Recommended Posts

rkmeekins Enthusiast

rkmeekins

Posted
Posted

I have an 03 sierra reg. cab w/onstar steering wheel controls, etc. When pass door is opened, interior lights do not activate. Also, there seems to be no power to pass. control panel- no button illumination, window or door lock will not operate. Driver side seems fine but will not operate the pass. side window or lock either. Also the keyless entry stopped working at the same time- what the heck is goin on here? This truck has been babied and well cared for. Could this be an BCM problem? Help!!

superjim Senior Enthusiast

superjim

Posted
Posted

I doubt that it is a BCM issue.

My Cadillac has a DOOR CONTROL MODULE in each door. Your truck may have something similar. I would check all wiring inside the door first.

There may also be a fuse for EACH DOOR control panel.

I would check for THAT also.

 

The next most logical thing is.. a power wire has came loose going to the control panel... a ground has come loose on the inside of the door or there is a broken wire in the big wire bundle that goes up inside the door.

Z45 Senior Enthusiast

Z45

Posted
Posted

You can disable the interior lights with botton position.

 

There is also a switch on door console that blocks passenger use of door window/door controls, for child safety on SLT models. Sorry my 04 SLT been gone for over 16 months and I don't recall exactly about the interior lights, just that is took me some time to realize why mine suddenly stopped working, I think its the interior light dimming button, push in or out deactivates the interior lights when door open.

 

Keyless entry, have you checked the batteries? If they are weak or gone bad, it will not work. Are you using the same remote you always use? Note on 2004 models each remote can be programmed differently so what works with one, may not work with the other. I found this out the hard way. I misplaced my keys one day and was in a hurry and not time to search, so I grabbed the spare set that had never been used since truck was new. I started truck and suddenly the power seat started to fold up and move toward the steering wheel pinching me up against it. The seats reverted to the shipping positions because this remote was never programmed to my settings.

rkmeekins Enthusiast

rkmeekins

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Disconnect both battery cables, touch them togeather for 10 seconds. Re-attatch cables and check functions.

 

 

Thanks for the tip! Will try in a few minutes. One other oddity I noticed only last night (in the dark) is that the driver side panel stays lit all the time- Keys in ign., keys out of ignition- all lights off- dosent matter, driver panel lights stay on continuously-WTH? The pass. door is completely dead- no illumination- no power mirror, no power window also interior light does not activate from pass. side, but will activate from drivers side- very weird!! And I did mention the keyless entry stopped working at the same time that pass. door died. Just a few more details Thanks, Kevin

rkmeekins Enthusiast

rkmeekins

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Disconnect both battery cables, touch them togeather for 10 seconds. Re-attatch cables and check functions.

 

 

Dude- u are the S____t!!!!!!!!!! Ure mojo is strong!! I tried it and everything is working as it should! Thanks so much!

 

Kevin Meekins

rkmeekins Enthusiast

rkmeekins

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Disconnect both battery cables, touch them togeather for 10 seconds. Re-attatch cables and check functions.

 

 

Hello, I tried this and everything is working now except keyless entry- checked w/ voltmeter and have 3 volts on both batteries, I am guessing that they have to be resynchronized? What is the procedure for this? The manual says to see dealer (of course) Thanks, Kevin

txab Senior Enthusiast

txab

Posted
Posted
Disconnect both battery cables, touch them togeather for 10 seconds. Re-attatch cables and check functions.

 

 

Hello, I tried this and everything is working now except keyless entry- checked w/ voltmeter and have 3 volts on both batteries, I am guessing that they have to be resynchronized? What is the procedure for this? The manual says to see dealer (of course) Thanks, Kevin

 

 

You might try this link.

 

Keyless programming

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...