Jump to content

Plug Boots


Recommended Posts

Posted

Does anyone out there know of a good spark plug boot puller that really works?

These new style plug boots are a PITA to get off without pulling a muscle or tearing a tendon,

especially the rear ones since GM decided to put the engine under the dashboard. It's like

trying to change the plugs on a GMC safari van I used to own.

Remember guys that I am coming from a 87 chevy pickup that I could sit on the fenderwells and

work on the engine. It had the old style boots that were easy to get off.

 

...thanx for any help :thumbs:

Posted

Why do you need to take them off already?

 

I found that when I did mine on the 04 I twisted the boot as much as I could and then pulled on the wire with one hand and gripped the end of the boot with some channel lock pliers and pulled. Busted 2 of the wires but I was replacing them anyway. It was a PIA though.

Posted
Why do you need to take them off already?

 

I found that when I did mine on the 04 I twisted the boot as much as I could and then pulled on the wire with one hand and gripped the end of the boot with some channel lock pliers and pulled. Busted 2 of the wires but I was replacing them anyway. It was a PIA though.

 

I don't need to take them off of mine, but my two sons have a 05 Silverado and an 04 Sierra and I

have helped them change theirs. When my time comes I want to have a puller that works so I don't

break any wires or pull a muscle.

Posted

I got a newsflash, when the time comes for you to get new plugs (90k-110k miles) you should replace the wires with them as maintenance. The things go bad over time.

Posted

I bought a set of OEM Brand "Heavy Duty Spark Plug Pliers" from Autozone and they did not work for Sh*T! They may have been broken/loose from the factory, but one of the ends would twist when I tried to clamp down on the metal spark plug boot heat shield and would just slip off the boot. :thumbs: I ended up using a small set of channel-lock pliers to remove the boots and you're correct when you say they're a PITA to get them off. I'm returning the defective spark plug boot pulling pliers on Monday, I'll let you know if I find a decent pair that works. BTW don't forget to use a little anti-seize on the spark plug threads if they are going into aluminium heads.

Posted

pliers+ twist + pull = only way to do it. Then when you put it back together, use some dielectric grease on the boot connector and next time they will snap right out just by pulling with your fingers.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • So, GMCustomerService:  Judging by the Update History pictured above, is this truck missing any updates that it actually needs. If it's just for the infotainment system, the radio is working fine and no trouble with SeriusXM. and Android Auto is working fine wirelessly with my phone. Some months ago, an update notice was sent to my truck. I approved the update and it finished saying that the update was successful, but it seems that whatever that update was, it didn't actually get installed - at least not if I'm to go by the Update History shown above.   So, again, are there any updates that this truck really should have? I've checked with my dealer but they're reluctant or commit to anything and if I want them to check, they require a $200.00 fee just to check it out and then I'd have to pay for the actual update(s).    Ignorance is bliss, and if none of the updates goes to fixing any mechanical discrepancies, I'll just leave things as is.  
    • Hey everyone, I recently had an issue with my 07 2500HD GMT900. My DRL’s stay on at all times. Right front turn and right mirror turn signal indicator stay on solid at all times. By “at all times” I mean the only way to make them go off is disconnecting the battery. I tore the headlight assemblies out, tried disconnecting the harnesses to eliminate bad wiring at the harness, I unplugged the headlight switch, no change and the mirror turn signal still stayed on. My first thoughts were : Bad bulb and/or socket somewhere, under hood fuse panel bad, bcm bad, tail light or trailer wiring problem, or some random short to power in the harness.  Possibly a bad ground but unlikely. I had a big clue in the fuse panel, it had a burnt smell. I started pulling every fuse that had to do with DRL or right turn/park lamp. Nothing made the right directional turn off but pulling the DRL2 fuse made the DRL’s go out.  After studying wiring diagrams, I found that both problems had that fuse panel in common, the bcm also controls both problems but knowing the fuse panel had a burnt smell I removed and disassembled the fuse panel and found a little corrosion on the printed circuit board.  I ordered a new fuse panel from Amazon for like $260. When it arrived I installed it, and put everything back together, the problem was fixed. I figured the fuse panel needed to be replaced anyway so that was a logical place to start. Hopefully this story helps someone in the future. Regretfully I didn’t scan for codes before I did everything.
    • That stinks. I’m sitting on the side of the road right now with the same issue. Never had an issue before taking it in for the ground strap recall. Now I’m outside of warranty and they’ll probably want $200 just to diagnose what they already “fixed”. 
    • I wonder kind of nuts and bolts they will come up with next? Jim
    • “It should be recognized, however, that there becomes a point where fuel economy oils do not make much economic sense for the end consumer—we talk about a fuel saving of ~€100 compared to a risk of €1000 Euros if the oil is too thin and causes increased engine wear rates. However, the benefit of these oils accrues to the car manufacturers. If their vehicles can save 1–2% fuel by using a special fuel economy lubricant, then that OEM can drastically reduce the amount of fines they need to pay.”   I liked this and the following paragraph as well but it’s really only touching the beginning of the benefits OEMs see from spec’ing these oils. After you factor in “out of warranty” service work and new car sales when these engines fail before their time, it’s a good racket for them. Just because you're paranoid doesn't mean they're not out to get you!
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...