Jump to content

Tool Box Question And Truck Pics


Recommended Posts

Posted

hey yall,

i want to get a tool box for my truck but im not sure what to do about those bed rails. They came with the truck when i got it and i like the way that they look but i need a toolbox. I opened up the black plastic part there is a bolt goes into something in the post holes. i loosened it and the rails loosened but i couldnt get them off. Do yall think that it would look good to shorten them and reattach them to the bed with the black ends like they are or should i scrap them and get bolt on bed rails. If i keep the current ones will have to make a hole that they will bolt into but thats ok with me. Anyone removed these kind of bed rails before and if so how did you do it? thanks

Harrison

post-60867-1239368989_thumb.jpg

post-60867-1239369036_thumb.jpg

post-60867-1239369072_thumb.jpg

post-60867-1239368989_thumb.jpg

post-60867-1239369036_thumb.jpg

post-60867-1239369072_thumb.jpg

post-60867-1239368989_thumb.jpg

post-60867-1239369036_thumb.jpg

post-60867-1239369072_thumb.jpg

post-60867-1239368989_thumb.jpg

post-60867-1239369036_thumb.jpg

post-60867-1239369072_thumb.jpg

Posted

If you like the way they look, I'd just get one of the boxes that fits inside the bed. A good chest type box is just as useful as one that sits on the bed rails. There are a lot of them available. Weathergard, UWS, Rawson Koenig, etc all make pretty nice ones.

 

Nice red truck! :lol:

Posted
If you like the way they look, I'd just get one of the boxes that fits inside the bed. A good chest type box is just as useful as one that sits on the bed rails. There are a lot of them available. Weathergard, UWS, Rawson Koenig, etc all make pretty nice ones.

 

Nice red truck! :lol:

:lol: Plus it stays out of view for theives. ...Plus bolt that 'sum b!tch down.
Posted

I'm with the rest of the guys. Get a flush mount tool box. They look better anyway. Another option, although a more expensive option, is going with the GM Cargo Management System Tool box. Then it is flush mount and you can slide it to the end of the bed for easy reach.

Posted
A good chest type box is just as useful as one that sits on the bed rails. There are a lot of them available. Weathergard, UWS, Rawson Koenig, etc all make pretty nice ones.

 

Nice red truck! :lol:

 

Don't these chest type sit on the bed floor? That would really limit hauling of plywood sheets or long lumber.

I know you can slide materials under the rail mount ones since they don't sit on the bed floor.

Posted
A good chest type box is just as useful as one that sits on the bed rails. There are a lot of them available. Weathergard, UWS, Rawson Koenig, etc all make pretty nice ones.

 

Nice red truck! :lol:

 

Don't these chest type sit on the bed floor? That would really limit hauling of plywood sheets or long lumber.

I know you can slide materials under the rail mount ones since they don't sit on the bed floor.

 

 

Yup. I originally bought a flush mount, but wen i realized i couldn't get anything underneath it i went with a rail mount. I need the abilty to haul plywood and sheetrock...

Posted

My GM CMS toolbox sits on the CMS rails, and leaves about 6 inches of open area underneath it. It is great because it is out of sight (theives), and it gives me great usable space.

Posted

I went with my toolbox that sits on the bed rails because I need to carry a ladder and I'm not putting a ladder rack on my truck. Also I didn't want to drill holes in the bed.

Posted

I still say a chest box is the best solution.

 

  • Buy a chest box that sits about 2-3 inches below the bedside
  • buy 2 pieces of 2x3 inch aluminum square tubing the depth of the box from front to back.
  • Bolt the 2x3 sections upright under the box at each end (all it takes is 2 bolts in the box and one in the bed on each side)
  • DONE!

 

 

Plenty of room to load a few sheets of plywood or some 2x4s and the box still isn't sitting on the bed rails farmer style. You have style and function plus the storage space of a tool box.

Posted
I don't care for the chest boxes at all. All of the ones I've seen, you have to jump in the bed to open the bastard.

 

 

Looks like SOMEBODY needs a Man-Step. :lol:

Posted
I don't care for the chest boxes at all. All of the ones I've seen, you have to jump in the bed to open the bastard.

 

That too, I wish I had gone with the saddle box instead of the cross box, sometimes the cross box can be a real PITA.

Posted

Another option is to get a cargo management system rails, and use large bolts to connect a tool chest to those rails. It would be a lot cheaper than the GM toolbox. Before I got my GM toolbox, I managed to find a tool chest that was within 1 inch of fitting perfectly between the CMS rails. If I hadn't gotten the GM toolbox for free (Business owners promo), I would have used that tool chest and some kind of spacer to install on my existing CMS rails. Good luck

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 408 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...