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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/28/2018 in all areas
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2 points
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I cut a bit of the foam carpet padding out and cut an X in the carpet to fit snugly around the grommet.2 points
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Hey this is what I'm also doing as well! For me it also turns off the auto shut off when I stop.2 points
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Need a diode to have your cargo lights follow the reverse lights. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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The entire price was around 900.00. That included 3 hours of fine dyno tuning, transmission remapping, changing the shift points for towing, and welding in 2 bungs on the exhaust for his dyno. I spent so much time with a few issues in the beginning because of trying to tune by email. My guy mine done in one day and it runs awesome. I know one thing for sure, going up route 8 through CT, the highway as you probably know is hilly, going up 3 and 4 % grades, the trans never shifted out of 6th. Pulls the gears so much better.1 point
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That’s the same part # I bought. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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Looks great! Very clean and professional. Got a link to the braided wire loom?1 point
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So i almost had a "punch shit" moment today. Deadening the front doors 1 at a time. I got the CLD all spotted up. Its solid except for a small part near the door latch which i cannot get to stop but its minimal. Then i started laying the CCF. Guess what. Whole peice wasted. To many wires running to the outside of the door. So i gave up Then i said screw it. Ill abs plastic over the 2 openings to seal the door. 1 hole is easy. Other hole the window motor protrudes out side of thr door skin. So i get mad and i cut my hand on the deadener. So i gave up Im going to attatch some open cell foam to the back side of the door panel itself, tape the rubber peice that covers the 2 door openings so its not flapping and call it a day1 point
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Bump. Can someone confirm the part number?1 point
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Got my AJT designs key fob today and I decided to color fill the buttons. I was super tired of the crappy sticky rubber on the oem fob. This is great quality so far and is way thicker than the oem one. Not much bigger in terms of the footprint also. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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I purchased the kit directly from Whipple, it includes the HP Tuner kit and credits. The towing will have to wait until I take my 5th wheel out of storage. If you ever decide to install this kit, come to CT and use my Tuner.1 point
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Yes, stock injectors and stock fuel pump. The flex fuel injectors flow very well, no need to change and the fuel pump will support up to 800hp.1 point
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Covered the wire in braided loom, ran it through the gaps in the body supports and zip tied it to a wire bundle behind the wheel well liner right up to the battery. Also, split loom would not fit all the way through the gaps but I ended up doubling it on top of the braided loom and pressed it as far as I could into each gap opening to have extra protection where it contacted metal edges.1 point
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Hey Phil, The 84288042 is backordered all over with no ETA. Is the only difference between the 8042 and 8045 the chrome handle? Do you know if the 8045 will fit a Silverado? Thanks, Jim1 point
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Went to the indianspolis auto show this morning. Spoke to a Chevrolet Rep from Michigan mainly about the 6.2 not being in the Trailboss and also all the chrome trim in the LTZ. She agreed and said they want to differentiate between GMC so it doesn’t sound like they have any plans for the 6.2 to be in the TB package. Did check out an AT4. Liked it a lot, interior much better than my 2010. Seemed side to side There wasn’t as much room, maybe bigger center console? 2 dislikes, rear view mirror is small and buttons easy to press when adjusting. The multi pro tailgate seemed a little difficult to use. Watched quite a few people give up. I am sure it gets easier as you use it. Overall I like it. We will see what happens would love to know when 2020 order starts Ryan B.1 point
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1 point
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I strip a piece of insulation off. Wrap the splice wire around the bare wire and always solder the connection. Wrap with 3M electrical tape and seal with liquid tape.1 point
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This is similar to what I do. I'll split the wire I'm attaching into two strands, put them through the hole I made and wrap them around the first wire and then around themselves. (not sure that makes sense writing it out). I may or may not solder at that point. Kinda depends on if I find the gun or not. Then I coatt it in the liquid stuff before taping. Really protects the join better. Wrap with tape and it will never go wrong.1 point
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I was taught how to tap into wires by an old mechanic when I worked in a garage as a mechanic. This method is full proof. Use your wire strippers and cut the sheath where you plan to tap in. Do it as if you plan to strip the wire, but you obviously can't strip it. Make 3 or 4 similar cuts all within about a 1/4 inch. Doing this allows you to expose a small section of the wire. Next you use a pointed tool, I use a pick, and make and eye through the middle of the exposed piece of wire. Now take the wire you plan to attach to it, and strip about 3 inches off the end. Feed it all the way through the hole, and wrap it up and around it's self, then wrap the rest around the wire you tapped into. Tape it down in the direction of the wire, and tape a few inches passed in each direction. And as always... Enjoy your ride! Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk1 point
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Anytime there is an engine or transmission failure, the cals have to be pulled and sent to GM.. No repairs done until they get back to the dealer with the results. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk1 point
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i have the readylift with the conrol arms. i had factory 22s with the 285/45. the tire just barely rubbed the leading arm of the control arm at full lock. maybe 1/16 of an inch. i welded steering stops from the Zone kit (come with BDS kit as well) onto the lower control arm factory steering stops and the rubbing went away. there was about 1/4" clearance after. I have a set of cognito control arms that have a much sharper angle to the ball joint on the front leading arm. i believe these will eliminate all rubbing with my new wheels and tires. however, i need to make sure they will work with the magneride sensing arm before I install. Once they are installed, there is no going back. I will be doing lots of investigating today.1 point
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1 point
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Been a while since I posted. Did a 2” Rc level and went with 17x8.5 0 offset wrapped in 285/75r17 nitto terra grappler g2s. Love this truck more and more! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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1 point
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I am offering these for $75 when you get around to doing it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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50k miles and I just installed new UCA's -- my ball joints were shot. I'm pretty certain it was the long miles with level kit and E-Rated tires that chewed them up.1 point
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Signed up just to put this to rest. I took the plunge and put Nitto Ridge Grapplers on today in 285/65R20. Stock Duramax Denali wheels, no lift, no level, I only removed the lower air dam/valance. Zero rubbing at lock, forward or reverse, and no crank on the T bars 2015 2500 for reference I hope this helps someone else since I searched forever and couldn’t get a good answer.1 point
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And how is this different from any random person in the world just walking up in a parking lot and getting it? This rates up there with folks blacking out their license plates in photos!1 point
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I wasn't trying to bicker either - I was trying to help. SuperSierra thought it wouldn't work on adjustable pedals but it does help a little so I didn't want to see somebody with adjustable pedals skip the mod when it doesn't take any money or time to try it out. Also when I said no special writeup needed I didn't mean his video was worthless, just the opposite, I meant no special writeup was needed for the adjustable pedals. Just follow the instructions he had already posted in that video for the non-adjustable pedals. I got the info to do it to my adjustable pedals from others on these forums so I agree that we all come here to get help. No harm meant to anyone. I can handle the criticism I just don't like being called names by others when I was just adding my and others experience and was civilized about it (if you read my posts I never called anybody names in fact I was the one who got called names by others). I agree that we should get this thread back on track. I hope to keep getting (and giving) good advice from these forums. Hatchet buried1 point
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Exactly... This is why I come here, and recommend this site to others. Yes, we all have our opinions, but, when it comes to this, take it off line. Some people get left behind, some people follow the crowd, some lead. Do you really know what the capabilities are of the person on the other side of the computer screen? Do they really know what they are taking about, or what to look for? I've been working in the vehicle development, prototype business for years, so I know it all, absolutely not, I see new stuff weekly. I may suggest something on this site, or another site, but I don't deliver it in such a manner... Remember, we are her for different reasons, for me, I want to share, and learn while I'm here, not to try and say my opinion and or view is the most valid, or important. Look back, how many mods have you done to your truck from what you have leaned here? See where this is going?1 point
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