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With a 7" lift and 35s I'd be doing gears instead of a converter. 4.56 all the way. Converters are great though but I think you'd get better gains from gears.

No I sold that pile and bought a f-150 build quality is much better I suggest you do the same

The biggest problem with the Silverado/Sierra isn't the headlights. Owners put leveling kits, raise the front or drop the rear to level and that throws the aim off. An inch or 2 makes a huge difference in the light plane down the road. It's all about aim and adjust which most don't do after leveling. 2 guys I work with leveled and didn't adjust their lights. They were getting flashed; I adjusted them and "voila". No more being flashed.

New refresh 2022's are currently unable to be tuned with HP Tuners if you want an actual tune. You're looking at a pretty penny for tuning if you went that route and they are able to be tuned in the future. Very possible that GM changed even more within the PCM than the previous 2019-2021 models and I doubt that HP Tuners has been able to test any of this yet.

I did the same thing to my 18’ Silverado and didn’t have this issue. But thanks for your feed back ha.

Ya just have to love these. "Hey I cut my exhaust off and now it's too loud, what should I do?" And let's start extra threads on the same topic so I can get more attention, too! SMH.

Oh geez, ranchos are the worst. My experience with Rancho on multiple vehicles is the exact opposite of yours. They ride horrible, rust fast, and blow out in no time. OP, If you actually truly want Ranchos on your truck, don’t buy them new. Post a want to buy ad, you’ll probably have people lining up to get them out of their garage for cheap. Most replace them pretty quickly.

Stop doing things half ass and put a Catback system on it! Buy a Corsa or Borla system. Problem solved. It always makes me shake my head when people spend $40, $50$, $60 thousand dollars on vehicles and then won’t spend the money needed on a nice exhaust or whatever up grades. Just try and do it cheap. Well cheap doesn’t last and you get what you paid for. “Man, I’m starting to sound like my old man”?? Do things right the first time and you won’t have to keep redoing it!

At 50k miles, I siphoned about 4 qts out through the dipstick tube, dropped the pan and changed the filter. The magnet had a very small amount of fine metal “dust” on it. While the pan was off, I added a drain plug. Once a year, around 12k miles, I drain and refill 5 qts.

164,100 Service 3/25/2022 Changed oil filter. Can't see much in it with a 10X loupe. Put old baffle back in. Blow by increase.

Regular spray on bed liners looking really good right now

Yes you can, it is in the first post of the thread.

3/15/2022 2016 Suburban 5.3 80,002 total miles on the suburban 6,002 miles on oil OLM at 12% Oil AMSOIL Signature Series ASM 0w-20 Ea017

My factory warranty expired yesterday on the way to work. Within 25 minutes I received 3 phone calls alerting me to that. I guess I should have taken them up on one of the offers, as the transmission and lifters are going to blow up any day now. Unfortunately, this is the clearest of this pictures I took. Camera did not want to focus on lights in the dark.

Investor owned and driven companies such as GM are all about $$. Engineers may set the spec's but the bean counters are required to seek out the lowest prices on parts and services. And like almost everything made by a low bidder, short cuts are taken and lower quality additives are used to meet the low price of the bid. The goal it to make it last the warranty period, after that its the customers problem.

I ended up finding a low mileage 2016 2500hd denali with the 6.0 and its red!

No offense, I'm just curious... what is the difference? If you want silence, mute the radio or better yet turn the volume down to zero so it doesn't come back on when you start the vehicle. I remember when iPods came out... people were complaining that there was no stop button, only a pause button. On a digital device... it's the same. I know the music app on my phone does not have a stop button, it only toggles from play to pause. These infotainment systems are computers with a radio app built in (over simplified, but basically)

i would swap in the converter from the cts-v or boosted camaro, and disable the TCC entirely, if stock stall is what you prefer then order the 2500 converter for the 6l90, and make sure you shim the the converter from the flywheel for proper pump engagement.

Converter. Why? Because the stock one has a weak lock up clutch and I'm surprised it hasn't let you know already. IF it were decent then gear first. IMHO-OC

Unless @Ryansal installs the cam himself - it would be far cheaper to do gears! Ask me how I know last month the intake lifter on cylinder #1 took a ****** (collapsed like most AFM lifters do). I'm on a TDY in Northern VA and without the conveniences of all my tools and garage, was forced to take it to a shop. But hey, I now have mild ported heads, a BTR Stage 3 cam, and just about every seal/gasket was replaced. Labor is expensive to say the least.

You can still gain a good amount of HP in NA form, just not as easy as with boost. Cam, a good set of heads and E85 could get you another 100 probably. If you’re running stock cam, I would stick with stock converter or a 6l90 converter (if you have 6A). And like Lucas said above, regearing would be better in your application. what “performance plugs” were you running?

Not quite a mod but I had to replace the Illinois plates with Wisconsin plates as I recently became a new resident. Plates were easy, quick run on Thursday to DMV about 25 miles away with Illinois title and left with new Wisconsin title and plates. There was no line, only 1 person in front of me so I blasted through there in no time. I also got my new DL. Only hitch was that I was given 45 days to get emissions testing. So the Range AFM delete got unplugged and a Bluetooth OBDII tester got plugged in. By yesterday afternoon after a couple highway runs, all necessary tests showed complete. So today I drove the block and a half to a local auto shop that does emissions testing. Took all of a couple minutes and it passed. Pulling out, the Range got plugged back in again. Life is good!

take a look at the AT4 floor liners too for another options .

Installed a Molle panel from Builtright Industries. Easy install. No drilling involved. https://builtrightind.com/collections/bedside-rack-systems-truck-bed-molle-panels

The lifters themselves are the failure prone component due to design, but in recent history they also had a bad batch with a manufacturing defect (our truck included). It's believed that disabling DFM/AFM reduces the likelihood of failure, and logically you would think that it would as you are not cycling the lock pins on the lifters that generally are responsible for the failure, but it doesn't guarantee that you won't have a lifter-related issue. Even if the components are stationary, they are still there and they are less robust that a traditional non-DFM/AFM lifter. Disabling the system in my opinion, however, improves the drivability of the vehicle significantly, regardless of reliability implications. I exclusively drive our '21 5.3 8-speed truck in L7 for this reason (but also because we had lifter failure at 585 miles and I'm still sour about it). If you toggle from L7 to D to re-enable DFM at a steady cruise, it feels like getting hit by a headwind and at certain speeds (especially 31 MPH specifically on ours, right before the transmission up shifts) the exhaust almost sounds like a helicopter with it enabled. This is all to say even if it was the most reliable system in the world (which it isn't), it's extremely unpleasant to live with. It's honestly a shame because the valvetrain in the modern 5.3 V8s took what used to be a 250,000+ mile motor in older LS variants and turned it into a 60,000-80,000 mile motor at best. I saw a post here the other day of someone with a 2019 5.3 truck with 78,000 miles that had a lifter go and it took out the whole engine to the tune of $12,000. It's not sustainable to own trucks with these engines out of warranty. I will be genuinely shocked if any significant number of the V8-equipped T1 trucks make it to 100,000 miles with all of the original factory-installed engine components in-tact. Ours didn't even make it to the first oil change.

I'm currently running a 275/70r18 on GMC Sierra AT4 wheels. 2.5'' motofab upper strut leveling kit.

Will these work?

I picked up some 285/70-17's over the weekend. I have the Bilstein 5100 adjustables set on the highest setting with weather tech mudflaps and no rubbing so far even in reverse at full lock. I'm very happy with the tires and love the ride! I can definitely feel the extra weight of the tires but it does not bother me. I'll have to take better pictures!

Yes, stock rims will work just fine. I just didn't know if you had stock 18" or 20" rims. On the new style trucks, a 275/70/18 will fit just fine with a level, and look really good.

Here's the pics of my truck (2015 All Terrain) I have the 285/65/20 with a 2.5" level in the front only. There is only a slight rub in the front when i lock the tires while turning. I have taken it on gravel, mud, and packed dirt and haven't had any issues with the tires being too large. I love them, been over three months so far, they have been awesome. Here is where the tire rubs on the inside of the well. Not sure if it is because the All Terrain's come with that carpet crap. It would be easy enough to cut out, and the piece it is rubbing on actually is sagging forward a little bit and at an angle heading towards the tire. Not sure if you can see it that well in the picture.

I can't find any mud in the parking lot of my local mall.