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Update On No Start 99 Tahoe

jbangelfish

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jbangelfish Enthusiast

jbangelfish

Posted
Posted

OK guys.

 

I took the cap and rotor out and inspected them. They did look as if they'd been on awhile and it's been about 2 weeks. We were unable to completely get the screen filters out with picks but jammed them full of holes if there are even screens in the holes, can't get a good enough look to find them. This is about the most inconvenient place for a distributor that I've ever seen.

 

At any rate, we cleaned everything up with brake clean and blew it out with compressed air, put it all back together and got a sputter, the most it's done in a week but still no real effort to run.

 

I am at a complete loss on what else to do. It seems to have adequate fuel pressure, the spark looks the same as my wife's Yukon at the plug anyway. It does seem to not be getting adequate spark or else adequate fuel and we couldn't get it to fire at all by spraying carb cleaner in the throttle body. I have not tried ether, haven't had any but could pick some up if that could make a difference.

 

Bear in mind, this began in cold damp weather. Replaced the battery and maybe just by luck it had dried out enough to go and give me no trouble for another three weeks. Cold rain hit and It hasn't run but once since. That day was reasonably warm and it had dried up. Since it turned cold and snowed, I've been dead in the water. This dampness and cold seems to be giving me my trouble but I don't feel like waiting for summer to drive my truck again. Any thoughts?

 

Thanks again,

 

Bill

Nytemare Senior Enthusiast

Nytemare

Posted
Posted

Carb cleaner is definitely NOT what you want to put in the TB. It is a cleaner...and therefore has a much higher flash point than fuel. if you spray it in a running engine you can stall it out.

 

Do you have a TBI engine. If so...make sure the injectors are firing and have a nice spray pattern...

 

Link me the original post..I have to read whats been done so far.

minibike132 Senior Enthusiast

minibike132

Posted
Posted

Did you happen to pull the plugs out? If you flooded it you can crank all day and your not going to get it going till the cylinders and plugs get dried. Pull just one of them out and see if it's wet/smells like fuel.

 

 

BTW it's easier if you keep this all in one thread.

minibike132 Senior Enthusiast

minibike132

Posted
Posted
Carb cleaner is definitely NOT what you want to put in the TB. It is a cleaner...and therefore has a much higher flash point than fuel. if you spray it in a running engine you can stall it out.

 

Do you have a TBI engine. If so...make sure the injectors are firing and have a nice spray pattern...

 

Link me the original post..I have to read whats been done so far.

 

I use a quck blast and only a quick blast of carb clean sometimes just to verify a fuel issue. BUT I have a very healthy respect for it and a shop full of fire extinguishers.

 

DO NOT USE ETHER, one little back fire and you are going to cause dammage. I would stay away from too much carb cleaner too.

59ih340 Enthusiast

59ih340

Posted
Posted

It sounds like your plugs are fouled,you may also want to check the wire and plug going to the crank sensor(front of engine by the lower pulley)

txab Senior Enthusiast

txab

Posted
Posted
BTW it's easier if you keep this all in one thread.

 

That's no joke. he's got 4 different threads running on this subject.

jbangelfish Enthusiast

jbangelfish

Posted
  • Author
Posted
BTW it's easier if you keep this all in one thread.

 

That's no joke. he's got 4 different threads running on this subject.

 

 

Sorry about the multiple posts, I was afraid when I posted last on a thread that any update might be missed as I would have been posting twice in a row on the same thread. Didn't want to get ignored and made an ass of myself instead. I won't do this in the future and will keep the thread going.

 

Now for the good news. The truck is running. Woo Hoo!

 

I swapped coils from my wife's truck to mine and used dielectric grease on all the connectors, including regreasing the ignition module. This made the truck at least fire and nearly start. I remembered what I think it was Rod who said the PCM module could be bad but I'm still thinking of bad connections with the damp weather and greased the PCM connector and voila, she popped right off. Had Rod not talked about the function of the PCM, I wouldn't have thought to try it. Almost running just made me think I'm not getting enough fuel for a cold start and sure enough.

 

We put my coil into my wife's truck, regreased everything and hers runs fine too. No bad parts, just bad connections but you guys led me in the right direction. Thanks a million and this is one perhaps to remember. Nothing more than a bad connection had it dead to the world. Could have been a combination of the coil connectors, ignition module connectors etc. but the clincher was at the PCM.

 

Thanks again,

 

Bill

jbangelfish Enthusiast

jbangelfish

Posted
  • Author
Posted
BTW it's easier if you keep this all in one thread.

 

That's no joke. he's got 4 different threads running on this subject.

 

 

Sorry about the multiple posts, I was afraid when I posted last on a thread that any update might be missed as I would have been posting twice in a row on the same thread. Didn't want to get ignored and made an ass of myself instead. I won't do this in the future and will keep the thread going.

 

Now for the good news. The truck is running. Woo Hoo!

 

I swapped coils from my wife's truck to mine and used dielectric grease on all the connectors, including regreasing the ignition module. This made the truck at least fire and nearly start. I remembered what I think it was Rod who said the PCM module could be bad but I'm still thinking of bad connections with the damp weather and greased the PCM connector and voila, she popped right off. Had Rod not talked about the function of the PCM, I wouldn't have thought to try it. Almost running just made me think I'm not getting enough fuel for a cold start and sure enough.

 

We put my coil into my wife's truck, regreased everything and hers runs fine too. No bad parts, just bad connections but you guys led me in the right direction. Thanks a million and this is one perhaps to remember. Nothing more than a bad connection had it dead to the world. Could have been a combination of the coil connectors, ignition module connectors etc. but the clincher was at the PCM.

 

Thanks again,

 

Bill

 

 

Update to the updated update. I mistakenly called the CTS, the PCM. You guys and your initials are killing me. Anyway, it was the CTS connection that responded to treatment. Problem is, today, I'm back to same problem. Now it tries but sounds like it's starving for fuel so I am buying a new CTS and installing it. Will keep you posted. Thanks, BTW, they are about 34 bucks at the dealer for OEM part, couple bucks less for Delphi which may be the origianal anyway.

 

Bill

  • 3 weeks later...
jbangelfish Enthusiast

jbangelfish

Posted
  • Author
Posted
BTW it's easier if you keep this all in one thread.

 

That's no joke. he's got 4 different threads running on this subject.

 

 

Sorry about the multiple posts, I was afraid when I posted last on a thread that any update might be missed as I would have been posting twice in a row on the same thread. Didn't want to get ignored and made an ass of myself instead. I won't do this in the future and will keep the thread going.

 

Now for the good news. The truck is running. Woo Hoo!

 

I swapped coils from my wife's truck to mine and used dielectric grease on all the connectors, including regreasing the ignition module. This made the truck at least fire and nearly start. I remembered what I think it was Rod who said the PCM module could be bad but I'm still thinking of bad connections with the damp weather and greased the PCM connector and voila, she popped right off. Had Rod not talked about the function of the PCM, I wouldn't have thought to try it. Almost running just made me think I'm not getting enough fuel for a cold start and sure enough.

 

We put my coil into my wife's truck, regreased everything and hers runs fine too. No bad parts, just bad connections but you guys led me in the right direction. Thanks a million and this is one perhaps to remember. Nothing more than a bad connection had it dead to the world. Could have been a combination of the coil connectors, ignition module connectors etc. but the clincher was at the PCM.

 

Thanks again,

 

Bill

 

 

Update to the updated update. I mistakenly called the CTS, the PCM. You guys and your initials are killing me. Anyway, it was the CTS connection that responded to treatment. Problem is, today, I'm back to same problem. Now it tries but sounds like it's starving for fuel so I am buying a new CTS and installing it. Will keep you posted. Thanks, BTW, they are about 34 bucks at the dealer for OEM part, couple bucks less for Delphi which may be the origianal anyway.

 

Bill

 

More updates to this thread.

The truck has been running off and on. If I can get it to run, it runs fine, drives fine. Cold starts are the problem. It sure acts like it's not quite getting enough fuel for a cold start. If I take a few minutes cranking, it will run. I only crank for maybe 10 or 15 seconds tops, rest it and try again. After a few minutes of this procedure, I can get it to run.

 

I changed the cap and rotor again, this time with an AC Delco, the last one was Standard brandname and I didn't trust it. You guys had said that 90% of these no start issues were cap and rotor related. I also have changed the coolant temp sensor, twice. The first was an aftermarket part that my son had picked up for me. I have since replaced it with an AC Delco. The truck is doing better but still very hard at cold start. The reason I suspected this part is that when we first checked out the old one, moving the connector around abit made it start immediately, making me think we had a bad connection. We decided to change out the part, found the old one to be cracked and suspected it was the problem. After putting in an aftermarket part, the truck still would not start the next day. The only reason I had an aftermarket part was that the dealerships were all closed for the weekend. Anyway, it's back to an OEM part. The cost difference was minimal for those who are wondering. The AC Delco cap and rotor cost the same as the aftermarket crap. No more aftermarket junk for me, period.

 

My battery is brand new, my alternator has been checked OK. I've swapped coils and ignition modules from my wife's Yukon and hers runs and starts fine with either of them.

 

What else can be related to this cold start problem? It sure seems to be in that circuit as once it's warmed up, it will start as normal and run as normal. Thanks guys.

 

Getting ready to trade this truck in and would love to solve my cold/damp start problem.

 

Bill

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